Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.
Writer Hong Myung-hee, author of the novel Im Kkeok Jeong, provided an excellent description of the costume customs of the Chosun era, based on an understanding of various historical texts and literature by practical science proponents, and experience gained from the Hong household of Pungsan, a noble family of high standing during the Chosun dynasty. However, there is a tendency towards descriptions of late Chosun era customs, rather than 16th century customs, with the intent of heightening the image of what most people felt to represent Chosun and its prestige, thereby generating greater reader sympathy. Therefore, information on the costume customs of the novel 1m Kkeok Jeong is analyzed and re-formed to fit with the temporal setting of the 16th century. By providing data to aid visual understanding and re-creation, the intent is to accept it as material for the rumination of our ancestors and their lifestyles in the 16th century. The novel provides a good description of Chosun economic customs, in which cotton and hemp were used not only as fabric for clothes, but also as currency. The trade value of cotton drapery or hemp drapery with dimensions of 5 strand density at a length of 35 ja per roll was designated as 5 mal (about 90 liters) of rice by national law, but the actual value varied depending on the production of rice. Also, it is possible to confirm the existence of sang po with dimensions of 3 strand density at a length of 30 ja per roll, or 2 strand density seochongdae cotton, which was used only as currency due to the rough quality. Characteristics of the Chosun dynasty, a class-based society, are described through distinctions of attire. The writer's intent regarding the symbolic nature of attire reflecting social position, a characteristic of the entire Chosun period, is analyzed with the presentation of visual material.
The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.
The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.
Mixing is most important for developing an electric washer which transforms angular momentum from rotating solid wall to laundry clothes inside it. For magnification of this mixing effect, some inventions are introduced to washing machine system, i. e., washing plate, washing rod, and even for washing cap in a model of a Korean manufacture. However, the previous efforts show dissatisfaction up till now. In this paper, a triumph to enhance mixing effects to increase washing performance is presented and verified by numerical investigation. The present model to simulate a washing tub is the simple circular cylinder with two endwall disks which is completely filled with a viscous liquid. The present improvement is to change mounting position of a bottom disk of the model cylinder. Therefore, the aim of this work just proposes a new idea, which is numerically inspected, to a producer of washing machine, In detail, this invention is alternating the mounting position of a rotating bottom disk. Actually skewed pulsator is placed in steady of a flat disk, so the two endwall disks at top and bottom are not in parallel. The angle between an inclined bottom disk and the horizontal plane is fixed as 5 degree and physical domain to consider poses a sliced cylinder. Flow fields in both a right circular cylinder and the present improved model are fully depicted by numerical integration on a body fitted nonorthogonal regular uniform grid system. Numerical data to explain flow structure are plotted for understanding of the effects of the inclined disk. Also enhanced mixing effects by the inclined rotating disk are gauged by accurate numerical data used in this work.
This study was conducted to examine whether there is any effect of the local body exposure to hot and cold alternate stress on the blood flow and heart rate. Environmental condition was $20^{\circ}C$ air temperature, 65% relative humidity and 0.2m/s air movement. 22~32 years old four healthy female subjects wore clothes which they felt comfort sitting on a chair. And then their left hand was immersed twice in ($42^{\circ}C$\;and\;15^{\circ}C$ water alternately. Two of the subjects (E-group) were continually exposed to above condition 12 times. While, the other two (C-group) were exposed twice only at the 1st and 12th time of E-group's exposure. The results obtained from this experiment were as follows. \circled1 The initial response of the finger blood flow in I-group to the thermal stress showed more sensitively at the post-training than pre-training. \circled2 Heart .ate was higher in hand immersion at hot water ($42^{\circ}C$) than at cold water ($15^{\circ}C$) \circled3 The pattern of the blood flow of the finger and heart rate was different between E-group and C-group.
Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).
Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
/
v.43
no.3
/
pp.101-120
/
2012
This study investigated general problems concerning the clothing and textiles field in the KDC 5th edition based comparative analysis academic characteristics and classification system, and suggested on some ideas for the improvements of them. Results of the study is summarized as follows. First, the classification system of the clothing and textiles field is generally divided by costume, dyeing engineering, leather & fur processing, textiles and textile industries, manufacturing clothes, management of clothing, and textile arts. Second, I proposed improvements based on analyzing problems of KDC 5th to the clothing and textiles field from the collection database at the National Library of Korea. Third, basically improvements of KDC system was based on the knowledge of the clothing and textiles field. I tried to maintain as the KDC existing classification system was to retain as much as possible, and to move between items was minimal.
This study was descriptive survey research. The main purpose of this study is to examine the daily activity of hospitalized children from two month years old to twelve years old and to identify needs or responses of mother who has hospitalized children. The subjects for the study were 179 mothers who have hospitalized children at pediatric ward two hospitals attached to a university in Seoul. The data was collected by two researchers and two assistants using structured open questionnaire for interview. The data was analyzed by using SPSS/PC. The results of the study were as follows ; 1. The daily activity of hospitalized children was mainly play activity except for treatment or nursing activity. It was limited activity at sickbed and various according to developmental stage of children. 2. The common responses of mothers on intravenous injection. blood sampling and fretful children were heartache. crying. empathy and guilty feeling. 3. The responses of mothers on disease progress were comfort. aspiration. anxiety. gloominess. critique and a serene state of mind. 4. The responses of mothers on medical personnel were kindness. carefulness. comfort. satisfaction. calmness and unkindness. 5. The responses of mothers on another hospitalized children were mainly empathy and sympathy. 6. The responses of mothers on patient clothes were comfort and deny. 7. The responses of mothers on residence with child were comfort. inevitable duty. laborious. exhaust. annoyance and worried about another family member. 8. The requirements of mothers were mainly convenience facility and play place. The results of this study indicate that hospital life were indifferent growth and development of children. Nurses need to identify hospitalized children and mothers have hospital adjustment problems and intervene as soon as possible to promote normal growth and development of theses children.
The Tibetan people are an ethnic group that is native to Tibet who have adapted to the region's harsh climate and environment, and developed their own culture. Religion played a central role in maintaining its traditional culture and society in the history. The objective of this study is to understand Tibetan costume and religion, and examine patterns that appear on the costume to study their religious symbolism. The significance of this study lies in explaining the symbolisms of the patterns that appear on the costume in terms of cultural maintenance and change. Based on literature review, I summarized the data about Tibet's environment, history and religion, and divided the residential district into three: ${\ddot{U}}$-Tsang, Amdo, Khamba. Then, I organized each region's characteristics and clothes, and studied Tibetan Buddhism (Vajrayana) costumes and features of the patterns that appear on the costumes. Through combining these data, I would like to examine the religious symbolism of the costume pattern of Tibet. Buddhism is at the heart of cultural and social maintenance and change in Tibet, and the patterns shown in the costume is influenced mostly from Buddhism. The features of general Tibetan costume vary with the region and life style, but the patterns that appear on the costume are used over a wide area to represent good luck and the spread of Buddhist teachings. The costumes for religious rites vary with religious sects, but most of the patterns are commonly used. The symbolism of pattern is a form of figure that represents the human psyche and physical world. The symbolism of pattern implies meanings such as compensation or futuristic wish. First, the lucky omen normally means long life, happiness and peace, and means religious salvation in Buddhist perspective. Second, warding off evil spirits normally means avoiding misfortune, and means dignity and self-protection, and protection of Buddhadharma in Buddhist perspective.
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