• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.10-25
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• 2010

The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2009

This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times ($1890{\sim}2000$) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.151-160
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• 2008

`Early adopters,` a term first used by Everett Rogers in 1957, refers to people who are among the first to try a new product and like to evaluate the product for others. Early adopters in the digital age of the 21st century, greatly influence others by exchanging information on products and writing product reviews on Internet boards. Technological products have recently been released in the fashion world to become important fashion items, and early adopters are active buyers of these products. The purpose of this study is to examine the values and characteristics of early adopters as consumers of technological fashion products, and present a standard for designing fashion products in the future. This study was based on documentary research, Internet research and in-depth interviews. Documentary research was carried out to examine the lifestyles, characteristics and consumption habits of early adopters. Internet research was done to understand the tendencies of Korean early adopters, and a total of 18 websites were studied in 7 product categories. The subjects of in-depth interviews were 6 people who were either webmasters or members of early adopter-related websites. IT field early adopters tended to pursue new technologies, and fashion early adopters placed importance on how well a person could express their own style. New, unique, useful and pretty were the key words to describe the tendencies of early adopters, and fashion early adopters preferred the latest contemporary styles. Interviewees placed most importance on price, design and function of products. Since IT related products are continuously being added on to clothes and becoming fashion products themselves, further research on technology-related fashion design would be significant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.13-24
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• 2001

With development of our society, the Hanbok, which is the traditional clothing of our country, is mainly used only on the festive days or marriage ceremony or so as a ceremonial dress and seems lack in wearing as plain clothes. But in the other hand. with general public became no more unfamiliar with the representation of Korean realities and accepted them as a part of life in 90', the modernized Hanbok that features seasoning the practicality into the aesthetic natures of the traditional Hanbok has been rooting in our country. The existing researches on the modernized Hanbok, however. are focused only in the design of the modernized Hanbok, the present conditions of the modernized Hanbok business and the actual condition of the modernized Hanbok, and the aspect in systematic research on the customers'purchasing behavior is weak in comparison with other areas. The goal of this research, by focusing in the value which is the most basic concept of psychological components indicating the customers' behavior, was : first. to make clear the value of the modernized Hanbok and divide the customers into various groups : second, to make clear the characteristics on the population statistics by the groups divided on the clothing value : third, to make clear the individual differences among the customers of the modernized Hanbok : and forth, to make clear the basis on which to estimate the modernized Hanbok by the customers'groups. This research adopted the surrey inquiry. The first investigation is carried out on the modernized Hanbok purchasers and salesmen in Insa-dong where the modernized Hanbok business is massed. As correction and complement for the first investigation. the final investigation is carried out in Oct. 2000 with the 480 persons from twenties to sixties consisting of the modernized Hanbok purchasers and experienced persons in wearing it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.80-97
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• 2012

This study empirically examined Seo Yu-gu's views on constumes that are based on 'Boksikjigu[服飾之具]' of Seomyongji[贍用志] in Imwonkyungjeji[林園經濟志]. In 'Boksikjigu', Seo Yu-gu explained different situations and problems that were related to costumes and proposed solutions for the problems. This study examined the contents, and divide the items into caps, accessories, and clothes. The results of this study were as follows. First, Seo Yu-gu in he rited the tradition of erudition. Seo Yu-gu classified various costume items systematically, and explained in detail about the origin, history and materials of the costume items. Second, he emphasized frugality, effective use, and welfare. Seo Yu-gu argued that the sleeves should be shortened for convenience and tried to improve practicality in the functional aspect. Also, he wanted to enrich people's life by improving the convenience of goods used in daily life. Third, he tried to establish identity as a Confucian intellect. This idea was clearly shown in 'costumes'; therefore, they served as evidences that Seo Yu-gu used to correct wrong practices through precise historical investigation and review of Shim-ui[深衣], the symbol of the practice of Jujagarye[朱子家禮]. In his later years, he discovered the plain dress that was worn as a casual wear by ZhuXi[朱熹]and tried to wear it in dailylife.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.472-477
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• 2011

In the tide of globalization, culture products play pivotal role in effectively introducing our tradition and culture to the world. This research is about developing culture products using our traditional lady's art craft work to attain the purpose of modern application through recreation of tradition along with modern technology. First, the types of traditional lady's art craft work include pouches, wrapping clothes and other accessories made by sewing except costumes. The materials used were cotton, silk, ramie, hemp and decorating techniques involved were embroidery, patchwork, quilting, knot. Second, the purpose of this study is developing culture products with traditional images which also satisfy modern sense. Therefore, items that could be used readily in daily life were selected. Such items include bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches. In addition, the Korean traditional Patchwork images which have both western-style and modern sense were selected out of the many kinds of traditional lady's art craft works. Third, cultural products (bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches) were created by DTP in silk with sacdong and free-styled division Korean traditional Patchwork images and quilting technique. The significance of this study lies in examining the possibility of developing modern culture products using traditional lady's art craft work. A way to further develop this study would be to shed new light on traditional crafts and local cultural resources and actively carry on the study of cultural product development to provide the foundation for developing cultural products with modern applications.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.127-136
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• 2006

These researches discussed promotions and effectiveness in the area of star marketing production, copying, advertising, and expenditure on clothes. The thesis is refreshing in the way it deals with analysis of strategical changes in the fashion of entertainers asia cultural industry developed. I specially focused on comparing and analyzing the changes in style of Hip Hop fashion from the period of inferior culture to the period in which their fashion is highly respected. Also, I'd like to study the influence of the fashion to Korean Hip Hop artists. The Hip Hop musicians developed their styles from underdog images of Hip Hop to glamourous and luxurious styles along with modeling in various magazines appealing sexually. In Korea, Seven and Hyori Lee are showing new and changed styles that are different from the past to their fans. The Hip Hop style now is showing with unimaginably luxurious styles as opposed to its original image. With their pursuance of ostentatious and luxurious styles Hip Hop was reborn as new Glam style. Old Hip Hop styles such as ripped jeans, safety pins, graffiti, and loose and exaggerated silhouette give inspirations to many worldly known designers and their collection. Hip Hop that used to be a branch of a low culture was able to grow to the culture of luxuries via the development the media and improvement of lives and the level of consciousness of the middleclass. Music stars with luxurious Hip Hop fashion influenced coming of a new musical genre and Korean musicians largely. I hope this research can help developing the unique low-culture and creating new trend in the field of entertainers' fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.183-199
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• 2015

This study aimed to systematize the apparel vendor work processes and provide useful information to future employees of clothing export units by analyzing the processes of vendors' manufacturing tasks. A survey of 20 apparel vendors servicing mainly U.S. buyers was conducted on employees of overseas business departments working for more than five years. buyers. Based on the results, vendors mainly manufactured cut-and-sew knit products. Regarding the production method, OEM was used more frequently than ODM. Fourteen (70%) companies used the ODM method. This suggests that vendors are expanding their production method from OEM to ODM. In order to summarize the work of each business based on the clothing production process research results, buyers were in charge of planning products and the vendors were in charge of sampling. Production of materials and the approval of material tests were out sourced. Overseas factories of vendors were in charge of bulk (mass) production and garment finishing, as well as packaging and shipping the completed products. Even though the vendors' head offices do not directly produce clothes, they play a pivotal role in ensuring planning and management progress in clothing production. As buyers prefer direct contracts for cost reduction, the vendor additionally performs the role of an agent. Also, with the increase in ODM production ratio, the work area of the vendor is expanding. If Korean clothing exporters improve their global competitiveness by investing in the R&D of materials and design to enhance the ODM method, the development of Korea's clothing and export industry will benefit significantly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.336-344
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• 2010

Stage costumes are characterized by the importance as a medium of total visual expression on a synthetic art and need to be designed more effectively. This study followed the stage costumes of the play 'Long long time ago whuo-ee whuoee' which participated in the China-Japan-Korea University Theatre Festival. By consisting of the framework of a Korean story that tells and expands the visual expression province by the access method of a producer, the unique costume in the play was created by the dyeing of the traditional hangi. First, the use of hanji in theater represents originality and a fresh variation with the formative beauty of stage costumes in accordance with hanji that conforms to the recreation of tradition. Second, the dip dyeing technique made it possible to express colors limitlessly and the airbrush dyeing technique along with dyeing twice could account for the weak points of the color. As a result, the color brought effect as expected. Third, the weak points were supported by a Jumchi technique that created the fibroid material tangled with stronger adhesion in the creation of a hangi costume. In addition, dyed hangi was attached to the outer fabric. It allowed the costume to have a unique texture that was both soft and tough. This enforced the visualization of the costume and durability to prevent possible damage by the performers. Forth, pieces of hanji were attached to the damaged parts of the costume after re-visiting the dress rehearsal. As a result, the stage costumes represented the shabby clothes that express the social class of the characters. A new understanding of the excellence of traditional hanji was found and confirmed the possibility of it as a material for stage costumes through the study.