The purpose of this paper was to examine the relationship between Surrealism and Schiaparelli's fashion design in the 1930s. Surrealism, derived from Dadaism, was based on Freud's analysis of dream imagery and human sexual behavior. Its style was characterized by the partial figure and the dislocation of body part, and the placement of the figure and its part in unanticipated settings. The objective of Surrealism was to exploit the unconsciousness and the interpretation of the body became an abiding. Surrealists were interested in the nature of clothing and in the specific characteristic of fashion, so, they moved into the world of fashion; fashion advertising window display and fashion photograph. The fantasy of Surrealism stimulated Schiaparelli to use wit and shock tactics, bold and unusual combination of colors, striking embroideries with crazy themes like circus and astrology. The character of her clothes was boldness and chic. She created humorous trompe-l'oel sweater, leg of mutton sleeve, tweed evening suit, shocking pink, peculiar accessories such as hats and buttons. She collaborated with many artists like Dali, Cocteau and Berard, and drew on all the latest artistic trends into the fashion arena from Cubism and African Art to Surrealism. Her Surrelist dress provided a play of illusions and affected today;s avant-grade style.
This study examines a pattern of family caregiving and its effect on life satisfaction of disabled elderly people. Data were gathered through the use of face-to-face interview method from a sample of 135 elderly aged over 60. One-third of the elderly respondents have no family caregiver. Most of caregivers provide routine household chores and physical help, but persnal care such as bathing and changing clothes was taken by elderly people themselves. The caregiver in an elderly couple is most likely the wife. When a spouse is unavailable, daughters-in law usually assume the role of a primary caregiver. Sex difference has been found in the most comfortable caregiver for the elderly. The most comfortable caregiver for the elderly men is shown to be their spouse, whereas the one for the elderly women is show to be their daughter-in-law. Most of the disabled elderly are emotionally dependent on their son(usually their eldest son), but physically dependent on their spouse, daughter-in-law, or daughter. The caregivers are dominated by women. Among those elderly receiving care from their children, the relationship between the aged their caregiver is found to be closer than the past when the aged were healthy: however, this relationship is found to be almost the same as the past among those elderly receiving care from their spouse. Finally, the degree of family solidarity, satisfaction with received cares, and the relationship with caregivers are found to be closely related to life satisfaction of the elderly respondents.
The materialism prevalent in the modern industrial society and concern for the destruction of nature have led people to long for the returning to nature and excite their nostalgia for old. These phenomena induced in modern fashion naturalism retrospectivism ethnicism and primitivism. In the following we present our findings in regard the roles and relationships of the tie dying with the modern fashion design. in regard the roles and relationships of the tie dying with the modern fashion design. The common basic themes are founded as follows; 1. Naturalism: The tie dying is from very old times and has evolved in many parts of the world producing their own natural designs and color. They bear the characteristic of nature; the pleasantness smoothness and complexity. 2. Individualism and hand made: No two items produced by the tie dying technique are identical even though they are similar by design and their individuality is to some extent determined by chance. The retrospetivism and individualism are themes relating to the modern fashion. 3. Ethnicism and primitivism: The tie dying brings up the 'ethnic and traditional' to us and their designs and colors present the new images of the ethnic and primitive influences to the modern designs. 4. Ecology recyle and grunge look: The tie dying represent the recycle of the used natural resources such as making the old cloths useful again in new forms by tie dying them. The old clothes thus restored show wrinkled untidy and somewhat loosely fit form. This image of 'grunge look' is one of the central theme of the modern fashion.
The purpose of this research is to find out ways of disposing unused cloths focusing on the environmental protection. To achieve its aim, previous researches are studied and simultaneously a survey has been done for housewives in Taejeon city. Collected data have been analyzed by the SPSS program. The result of this research is as follows. On the questions concerning planned clothes buying, meaningful differences are obtained according to their ages, degrees of education, occupations, patterns of housing. On the period wearing cloths, meaningful difference is shown only by the age. the first reason for disposing of unused cloths is that the cloths become unfit for the body, second is that the designs or colors become so old that the consumer does not like it any more. On the ways of currently disposing of unused cloths are very much different from on the ways of desirable disposal of unused cloths. On the questions of recycling, the experience of wearing used cloths given by others is high. On the question of 'what would you do if you were given used cloths?', the commonest answer is 'I would wear them because it would be beneficial economically.', 'I wouldn't wear them.', 'I would wear them because it would be any help for resource frugality or pollution prevention'. On the question of the experience of getting used cloths voluntarily, 38.1 percentage of pollees has answered yes, 62 percentage no.
In this study, we have focused on various types of costumes for traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae. To analyze their costumes, spot photographs of Ganggangsullae contests from 2011 and 2013 were collected from the Department of Culture and Tourism, Jindo County Office and the Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Costumes were analyzed by categorising them as type, shape and color. Traditional Ganggangsullae costumes are two types: traditional hanbok and saenghwal hanbok. Traditional hanbok design dates back to the late Joseon dynasty and saenghwal hanbok design to the middle Joseon Dynasty. They reflects confucianism, a male-dominated society, totemism, shamanism and Yin-Yang and the five elements theory in agrarian society and community life. Daily dance Ganggangsullae has various types of costumes such as the fusion hanbok, saenghwal hanbok, cheering uniform and casual wear. They show modern color schemes. There is not any magical meaning from Yin-Yang and the five elements theory. Instead, they have individualism, liberty, equality and welfare in information-oriented society. So its costumes are easy and comfortable clothes. But traditional hanbok, fusion hanbok and saenghwal hanbok are inspired from Korean identiry. Even though traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae have different costumes and ideology, they have a common denominator 'playfulness.' It will function as a key for Ganggangsullae to be performed continuously over the period.
Our country's fur clothing industry has rapidly grown for a short time since it started with simple needlework of fur pieces, and now it is still developing as export industry that some enterprises besides general business firm export more than ten million dollars a year. However, it is true that fur clothing industry is still in unsatisfactory level in its size and system, compared with manufacturing or leather industry. Of course, we import crude material and processed fur on an entire base, and we have few wild fur on an entire base, and we have few wild fur animals because of our natural condition and it is hard to breed them. On the other hand, the world's fur industry shows that the demand of fur clothes is increasing as fur animal breeding is improved and developed and supply has become rather abundant with the help of fur clothing fashion since late 19th century : Also, there is a trend that some developed countries depend on importing rather than self-prodoction because of the character-istic of labor-concetntraled fur industry. Accordingly, considering this situation, we can expect fur clothing industry as promising export industry by analyzing the present situation of our country's fur clothing industry and suggesting its problems and solutions, and here are developing plans for growing fur clothing industry as promising export industry. First, smoothing delivery of crude material. Second, making high quality products and diversifying goods. Third, establishing effective competition system in fur clothing industry. Fourth, raising skilled man power. Lastly, there should be coopetation among the related fields in the aspect of policy including the support from the government.
This study is to examine the Hyangnag used in China. Results of the study can be described as below. 1. Hyangnang was also called Hyangdae, Hyanghapo, Hunnang and Chunnang. Perfumes were used to make the body and clothes diffuse a good fragrance. And Perfumes were used to prevent insects and remove related pollutions. It was possible to prevent insects when perfumes were burnt out. 2. In the Han, Song, Yao and Win periods, Hyangnang had Cylinderical, Rectangular, Cylinderical and Rectangular, Circular and Calabach types. These various types were developed into one, Norigae type, in the period of Ching. 3. Hyangnang were decorated mainly with embroideries, knots and seams. Embroideries were applied always onto the surface of Hyangnang. Knots were used mainly in the Song and Win periods, decorative seams were used mainly in the Ching. 4. From the Han to Yao periods, Hyangnang was made of perforate textiles like na and Sa for practical reasons, making perfume smells more easily diffused. From the Win to Ching periods, Hyangang was made of dense textiles like silk and Dan, which could be easily embroidered for decoration purposes. 5. Hyangnang was often hanged down from the waistband and up onto the fore chest or the elbow, or put into the liner of the sleeve. 6. Hyangnang has immanent implications of symbolism, ideology and aristocraticism.
This study is designed for examining the names of men's and women's clothing of Choseon period, which can be divided into the upper, the lower, and the outer garments based on yu유, go고, po포 from the early period. Furthermore, amongst these various garments, this study shall define some kinds of clothing, which is shared its name and its use by both men and women, as the unisex clothing. Lastly we analyzed the special characteristics of this unisex clothing. With the names of clothing in Choseon period, we could understand about the difference of clothing's development by the names for the upper, lower, and outer garments as gender. And we also found the names for the unisex clothing in that period. The names of unisex clothing in Choseon period can roughly be divided into three garments; the upper, the lower, and the outer. Each category can also be subdivided into tku: i. e. the upper garments into jeogori저고리, hansam한삼, sama 삼아, jeoksam적삼, donguidae동의대, and godo고도; the lower garments into go고, gonja고자, and baji[paji파지, pachi파저]; and the outer garments into jangui장의, baeja배자, and juui주의. Furthermore, we can recognize that the shapes and uses of clothes in that period had been represented differently between the men's and women's.
This study investigates the relevance between the subjective age and clothing shopping orientation by adults women located in the cities of Seoul and Gyeonggi. The results are following. First, subjective age was identified with interest age, look age, and physical age. Customers were segmented into following five subdivisions: young activity group, actual age group, young appearance group, physical aging group and youth-oriented group. When the study examined differences between real age and subjective age, the study could see that they perceived themselves younger four years than real age- 50s: 7 years, 40s: 5 years, the latter half of 30s: 2.7 years and the former half of 30s: 1.7 years. Second, clothing shopping orientation was identified with planned shopping orientation, leisure shopping orientation, loyal shopping orientation, economic shopping orientation and convenient shopping orientation. Customers were segmented into following three subdivisions: shopping low-involved group, loyal leisure group and planned leisure oriented group. Third, interest age was of no relevance to clothing shopping orientation. On the other hand, look age had negative correlation with leisure shopping orientation and convenient shopping orientation and physical age had a negative relationship with leisure shopping orientation and loyal shopping orientation but had positive correlation with economic shopping orientation. Fourth, in clothing purchase, clothing purchase answerers who were younger five years than actual age had the highest frequency. It means that they purchase clothing according to subjective age perceived younger four years on average.
This study aims to examine the subjects of cultural power of the modernism and post modernism eras, and analyze how the change of power and subjects influenced fashion throughout the history from the microscopic perspective, and thus to explain the social relationship of the fashion phenomenon. The study findings can be summarized as follows. First, as the post modernism era which was being formed centering around Europe that was pursuing Haute Couture and formal masculine suits ended and the post modernism era started, America became the center of the world power, and the American equalitarianism and growing wealth among the general public spread over the world, and as a result, the ready-made clothes were propagated over the world, and various subcultures came to have multi-national tendency in the New Media society. Second, in the modernism era, the high class, whites, males, and the pre-existing powerful class were the subjects of cultural power. Although this changed in the post modernism era, as some of power moved from the high class to the middle class, the economically affluent general public, still the western world, males, and whites held the center of power. However, later, females, youths, the third world nations, and so on emerged as minor power, and when the New Media society started, the structure developed so that everyone can share cultural power.
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