• Title/Summary/Keyword: Korean Traditional Silk

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The Image Evaluation for Acromatic and Cromatic Coloration of Korean Dress's Wearer - Focused on Red, Yellow and Green Jacket - (무채색과 유채색 배색에 따른 한복착용자의 이미지 평가 - 빨강, 노랑, 초록 저고리를 중심으로 -)

  • Kang, Kyeong-Ja;Jeong, Su-Jin
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.19-34
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this research was to investigate the image dimension depending on the coloration of the Korean jacket of cromatic colors and the Korean skirt of acromatic color and to elucidate the image difference depending on the tone variation of the Korean jacket and the Korean skirt. The experimental materials used for this study were sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic). The stimuli manipulated by computer simulation were 48 color pictures with various combinations of colors of jackets and skirts. The subjects were 576 female undergraduates living in Jinju city. This experiment was based on the $3{\times}4{\times}4$ factorial designs: jacket color(red, yellow and green), jacket tone(vivid, light, dull and dark), and skirt tone(N9, N7, N4 and N2). Image factor of the stimuli consisted of 4 different dimensions(youthfulness and activity, gracefulness, visibility and tenderness). Among them, the youthfulness and activity, and the gracefulness were important. According to the tone variation of Korean jacket of cromatic colors and Korean skirt of acromatic color, the images for a wearer were expressed diversely and showed the difference in image dimensions.

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Study on the Utilization of Natural Dyeing Materials as Household Supplies (천연염료 염색포의 생활용품 활용에 관한 연구)

  • Chu, Young-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.3 s.102
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    • pp.73-80
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    • 2006
  • This study is aimed to produce natural dyeing garments, which contain the sentiments and color sense of Koreans, by using various household supplies, with a view to increase the values added and utilization of natural dyeing. The dyes mainly used for this study are multi-colored ones which are durable after dyeing and can represent various colors. They include Lithodpermum officinale, Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia Cordifolia, Pellodendron Bak, Curcuma Longa L., fallen Ginkgo Biloba, Artemisia Princeps, and Quereus acutissima carr shell. Considering water pollution and other things, aluminum acetate and ferrous chloride were used as mordants. Cheap and practical materials such as cotton cloth and those with traditional patterns and elegance such as silk and ramie fabrics were used to produce baby goods, household supplies, clothes, and accessories. The produced supplies closely contact with our body, so they may have a great effect on human body. The household supplies produced include rug, bedclothes, room bedclothes, curtain, bedding set, cushion, and sunlight blind, in consideration of the functionality or medical actions of the goods which are closely related to the human skin. The infant supplies produced include longcloth for newborn baby, bedding set, gauze handkerchief, and doll. The clothes include night gown, shirt, bath gown, and Korean traditional clothes. The accessories include tablecloth, cup pad, bag, wrapping cloth, mouse and keyboard cushion, and scarf. Nowadays, consumers prefer environment-friendly naturally dyed garments and products. In order to control the naturally dyed garments and products which are traded in the domestic market, it is urgent to introduce such ecological marks as 'Toxproof' and 'Ecoproof.' Currently, many ordinary persons, who are not experts, have interest and participate in natural dyeing, but they simply produce naturally dyed garments, not artistic works or everyday supplies. The present author expects this study will contribute to the production of household goods by such persons. The author also hopes that they will develop and commercialize such designs as suit to modern tastes and senses based on the unique cultural assets of Koreans, so that Korean naturally dyed products may be recognized as reliable commodities equipped with international competitiveness.

A Study of Folk Costume Culture (II) -Field Research Around the Mt. Kumo Area- (서민복식문화에 관한 연구(II) -경북 금오산 주변지역의 민속조사 결과를 중심으로-)

  • Hong, Na-Young;Lee, Eun-Joo;Lim, Jae-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.19 no.1
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    • pp.71-79
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    • 1995
  • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.

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The Type and Structure of Men's Belt in Early-Middle of Chosun Era (조선 초·중기 출토 허리끈의 유형과 구조 - 여산 송씨 출토 허리끈을 중심으로 -)

  • Son, Hee-Jin;Kwo, Young-Suk
    • The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.5
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    • pp.672-678
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    • 2011
  • This was written based on the type and structure of korean man's waist belt in the early and middle era of the Chosun era. The waist belt was excavated from the Mokdaldong in the Daejeon city. The types of korean man's waist belt in the Chosun era were classified into Wondahae (i.e., round shape belt) and Gwangdahae. The Wondahae consist of two types which are circle shaped and straight types. The circle shaped wondahae contain one fringe in the main body of the belt and its joint part is decorated with a small network such as lacing decoration with the size about 1 cm around. The shape of the Wondahae has been changed from the circle shaped into the straight types and also has a tendency to be wider and longer as time went by. The standard form of the Gwangdahae is straight with about 2-3 cm width and elaborated by lacelike fringe as well. This also has a tendency to be wider starting from the 1600s show. The structure of this belts were divided into braid and ornament parts. The ornament part was constructed with the lacelike netting and fringe parts. The sophisticated craft techniques have a great decorative beauty. Through an analysis of FT-IR, the materials of those three belt are known which are made of the silk and the core thread was filled with cotton. Moreover, it can be confirmed that the glitter material of the ornament part were designed with gold foil and has been analyzed with SEM-EDX.

Fashion-cultural Products Design Development Based on the Lian Pu of Chinese Beijing Opera: Focused on Chinese Four Major Novels of Wonder (중국 경극 검보를 활용한 패션문화상품 디자인개발: 중국의 사대기서를 중심으로)

  • Zho, Xu;Kim, Jiyoung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.19 no.2
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    • pp.53-68
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    • 2015
  • The Beijing Opera is one of the leading representatives of Chinese culture, which includes literature, music, dance, martial arts, and a type of performance that stems from the Chinese cultural history that is still relevant today. The purpose of this study is to develop fashion-cultural products from the Lian Pu of the Beijing Opera, a Chinese cultural tradition that receives abundant positive feedback from around the world, showing its value in both academic and practical fields. This study was carried out first as a theoretical study of the literature, definition and types of facial make up used in the Opera, as a way of examining the formative aspect. Secondly, an analysis was conducted on the main characters, 'Guan Yu' and 'Zhang Fei' of "The Romance of the Three Kingdoms", 'Li Kiu' and 'Lu Zhishen' of "All Men are Brothers" and 'Monkey King' of "Journey to West", employing the collection belonging to 'Yongqi Zhao' who is an expert on the Chinese Beijing Opera. Thirdly, two concepts were categorized, based on the analytic results of the abovementioned characters, each of which were then further categorized into three sub concepts. In regard to cultural development designs, the results of an analysis on the facial make-up color, form, and texture of the four main characters were utilized to construct the themes, "Modern Chic" and "Traditional Splendor". The simplest form that has been represented in the four figures has been applied to "Modern Chic" to show a modern image in which black, white and light blue has been used alongside the vivid red, which is a Chinese favorite, to highlight the characters. In "Traditional Splendor", which is focused on the stage art of the Opera, we see more artistic traditions and colors, to further appeal to our emotions. Traditional motifs have been applied using traditional Chinese arts, in order to develop strong and brilliant colors. The two styles of cultural products were developed in the form of women's scarves and men's ties; a total of 24 designs were expressed, using Illustrator CS6. In the final step, 4 scarves and 6 ties were produced as a sample, using high quality silk. The development of these cultural fashion products will bring an opportunity to show how Chinese traditional culture can be widely utilized in commercial market design.

Study on the Costume of Early Joseon Dynasty Appearing in 16th Century Taenghwa (16세기 탱화에 나타난 조선전기 복식연구)

  • Kim, Soh Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.1
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    • pp.45-63
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    • 2014
  • In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

Clothing & Textiles Education before the First Curriculum (Part II) -Secondary School Home Economic Textbooks- (교육과정기 이전의 의생활 분야의 교육내용에 대한 고찰 (제2보) -중등 가사를 중심으로-)

  • Lee, Young-Suk;Yoo, Hye-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.8
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    • pp.1203-1214
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    • 2009
  • The theory of household arts and practical acts are two traditional mainstream topics of official South Korean secondary home economics education. The clothing and textile education within the Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is various and practical. The first year textbook discusses the symbolism and maintenance of uniforms that provides information on the characteristics of cotton. Clothing and textiles are covered in 26 pages out of the 76 page book. The second year textbook includes the theory of color and form, along with the characteristics of flax and silk. Clothing and textile education is covered in 33 pages out of the 97 second year textbook. The third year textbook deals with the characteristics of wool, manufactured fibers, cross weaving, removing stains, clothing arrangements, and equipment; 5 chapters (56 pages out of 137) are spent on clothing and textiles. The fourth year textbook introduces the history of clothing, laundry principles, dyeing, bedclothes, and bed accessories; 4 chapters (63 pages out of 125 pages) are spent on clothing and textiles. The Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is highly extensive and profound in depth. It is comparable with modern college or specialized high school level clothing and textile education in terms of clothing materials, clothing maintenance, color theories, and dyeing.

A Study on the Fungi for the Excavated Clothes of the 16C,at Dae-Duk Ku in Dae-jun - Focus on the Excavated Clothes of Kang Jeol´s wife Hansan Lee and Chungjoo Park, and Song Munchang - (대전 대덕구 출토 16세기 출토복식유물에 서식하는 곰팡이에 관한 연구 -강절 부인 한산이씨, 충주박씨와 송문창 복식유물을 중심으로-)

  • Lee, Sang-Jun;Back, Young-Mee;Lee, Gun;Cha, Mi-Sun;Kwon, Young-Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.5
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    • pp.23-31
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    • 2003
  • The Purpose of this study was to isolate and identify fungi found in excavated clothes dating on the 16th century. As a result of microscoping with LPCB staining, seven isolated strains were classified-Acremonium strictum, Acremonium kiliense, Fonsecaea sp., Candida sp., Trichoderma sp., Cladosporium spp., Penicillium spp.. In the process of isolation and identification of fungi by the sort of textile, more fungi were found in cotton, cotton batt and silk than in ramie and hemp, suggesting that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the Comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of fungi in washed samples. In the cellulase activity test, Acremonium kiliense had the highest level cellulase activity, suggesting that Acremonium killiense has an important Influence on damage of textiles.

Conservation Treatment and Material Analysis of Lacquered Head-wear Excavated in Ulsan Dated to Goryeo Dynasty (울산 출토 고려시대 칠사관모의 보존처리 및 재질분석)

  • Park, Hae Jin;Kwon, Young Suk
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.29 no.1
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    • pp.15-24
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    • 2013
  • Chil-sa head-wear excavated in Buksandong of Ulsan is precious relic with historical, cultural, social and artistic values because it shows head-wear shape at the period of Goryeo dynasty with the invaluable worth in the field of Korean traditional costumes. Also, this excavated head-wear provides the empirical information about Goryeo dynasty which has relatively insufficient remains. The purposes of this study are to recover and maintain the original states of the artifacts from various environmental factors and then to preserve the materials from rapid decomposition. As a result, the original shape of the head-wear from Goryeo dynasty can be conserved and through the material and structure analysis it is found out that the head-wear's surface structure is composed of silk(紗) and the ground structure is made by bamboo(竹絲).

A Study of Architectural and Design Elements of Secondary Shirines in Traditional Buddhist Temples in Korea (한국 전통사찰에 있어서 부불전의 건축요소와 의장적 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Jeong-Sik
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.38 no.5
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    • pp.102-112
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study is to identify the architectural design elements of secondary shrines in traditional Buddhist temples in Korea. For this study, a survey of six kinds of secondary shrines (Myemgbujem, Yeongsanjeon, Eungjinjem, Yaksajeoun, Gwaneumjeon, Mireukjeon), according to specified design elements(building sizes, roof styles, Gongpo, Dancheong, shape of Datjip), was conducted. The results of this study are summarized as follows; Myeongbujem is built in every temples(25 examples), most having simila1ities in sizes and architectural elements(roof, Gongpo structure, Dancheong, Datjip). The majority of Yemgsanjeon(l4 examples) and Eungjinjem shrines(l5 examples) are mostly 3-Gan sized buildings, having a Matbaejibung and Ikkmg structural system. Gwaneumjeon, on the other hands, has 1he most elaborate architectural elements. Among 12 cases, 8 buildings have Paljakjibung, 9 buildings have Silk-Dancheong in innerspace, and Datjip are included in six buildings. Yaksajeon shrines are small in mnnber, but most of these shrines have a Dapo structure, and, despite of their size, are designated as cultural properties.