• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.269-276
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• 2005

In this study, cross-cultural comparison of sound sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics between Korea and America was performed and prediction models for sound sensation by objective measurements including sound parameters such as level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic characteristics, and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System were established for each nation to explore the objective parameters explaining sound sensation of the Korean traditional silk. As results, Koreans felt the silk fabric sounds soft and smooth while Americans were revealed as perceiving them hard and rough. Both Koreans and Americans were pleasant with sounds of Gongdan and Newttong and especially Newttong was preferred more by Americans in terms of sound sensation. In prediction models, some of subjective sensation were found as being related mainly with mechanical properties of traditional silk fabrics such as surface and compressional characteristics.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.201-204
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• 1999

The silk/paper mulberry paper was prepared by recycling of the hard twisted silk waste and its mechanical properties was investigated. The silk waste was pretreated with sodium hydroxide(0.5%) and sodium carbonate(4%) to make it easy for beating and fibrillation. The silk/paper mulberry hand sheet paper has better mechanical properties of tearing strength and air permeability compared with the traditional and modified traditional paper. Treating with alkaline solution, the hard twisted silk waste could be used for an novel composite material.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.450-456
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• 2006

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters - loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ${\Delta}L\;and\;{\Delta}f$. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.163-177
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• 2024

Korea has preserved a highly sophisticated silk fabric culture throughout its history. Among these fabrics, Ra (羅) was considered to be a premium gauze fabric that required advanced skill and dedication to utilize. Ra is a complex gauze fabric in which four warp threads are twisted together and intersect with the weft to form intricate holes. This unique structure gives Ra its distinctive transparency and elasticity among silk textiles. It was widely used for veils, garments, and various items from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. However, its complex weaving process limited production efficiency, leading to its decline. Today, Ra has become obsolete. This study focuses on the elastic characteristics of Ra, where intersecting warp threads create net-like structured holes. This stucturre was emulated by developing a silk knit using a Raschel knitting machine. The developed product consists of three types: one replicating the alternating complex structure present in the traditional patterns of Munra (紋羅), another reproducing the distinctive hexagonal holes of the 4-end complex gauze, and the last expressing the hexagonal holes with the weft passing through them. Inspired by Ra's traditional uses in clothing and everyday items, various products were designed and produced. These include a women's coat with Akjureum, a 17th-century Joseon-style women's Jeogori, a modern market-style Jeogori, and a envelope inspired by a Goryeo Dynasty pouch artifact. These items confirm the potential and applicability of the developed silk knit as a material for modern Hanbok products. This study underscores the significance of developing new textiles that incorporate traditional materials, highlighting how tradition can be preserved in diverse ways.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.32-37
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• 2004

Gayageum and Geomungo are the traditional stringed music instrument in Korea. These strings are usually made of raw silk. This study was carried out to investigate the optimum condition for silk string producing method using several kind of silk and setting temperature of silk string. If the ply of strings and twisting condition were same, tenacity and elongation of every silk strings were similar, in spite of silk strings prepared by physically different raw silk. On the other hand, in setting treatment of twisted string, it was disclosed that the proper setting temperature of silk strings were 11$0^{\circ}C$ for 20 min.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Sericultural Science Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.34-38
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• 2003

The silk fibre Produced by the larvae of the lepidopter of the Bombyx mori species is no doubt one of the most precious raw materials employed in manufacturing textile products. The present report, however, deals with silk not as a traditional textile fibre, but as a starting material fer biomedical applications. In recent years, the unique chemical and mechanical properties of silk have made this protein polymer highly attractive for innovative applications, which mainly focus on the development of devices for biomedical uses. (omitted)

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.93-98
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• 2002

Effect of reducing agent sodium hydrosulfite on the natural indigo on the silk fabrics were examined to improve traditional dyeing method. K/S values of dyed fabrics was monitored with various dyeing temperature time, amount of dye and reducing agent. The dyeability of silk fabrics was improved by using reducing agent, sodium hydrosulfite; K/S value (7.20) was higher then that (1.09) of traditional method at the frist dyeing. Natural indigo dye extracted from dyed silk fabrics are composed of isomer, indigo (67.3%) and indirubin (32.5%). However, silk fabrics showed excellent anti-microbial activity regardless of the dyeing methods.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.41-47
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• 2005

Kayagum is a traditional musical instrument in Korea. Kayagum strings are usually made of raw silk. It needs good vibration and durability. This study was carried out to increase durability of the strings by chemical treatment and manufacture of silk/polyester and silk/wild silk compound yarn. In this study, we used MKW-810(water solube acrylic adhesive)and polyvinyl alcohol as a adhesive. Before the twisting, the raw silk wet on the string manufacture process. The adhesive reagent were added in this process. And compound yarn were prepated by domestic silk, polyester and wild silk(antheraea pernyi) for make of Kayagum strings, respectively. The result are as follows. 1. Tenacity and elongation of the strings are almost same between none and chemical treatment. However number of extension cycling to breaks of the strings was largely increased by chemical treatment. Number of extension cycling to breaks of the strings is very important and useful item to check durability of the strings. The stiffness of the strings were almost same between none and adhesive treatment 2. Tenacity of the silk/polyester strings is largely decreased by increasing of polyester portion, but elongation of the silk/polyester strings increased. However tenacity of the silk/polyester(mono filament) strings are higher than that of silk strings. 3. Tenacity of the domestic silk/wild silk strings is largely decreased by increasing of wild silk portion, but elongation of the domestic silk/wild silk strings is almost same among silk and domestic silk/wild silk strings.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.37-42
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• 2006

Researches to preserve and restore the remaining fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated silk fabrics, degummed silk fabrics and safflower dyed silk fabrics were prepared for an experiment. These fabrics were photo-degraded by the Xenon arc beam to have various strength retention(100%, 80%, 60%, 40%, 20%). The fine structure and physical properties of Xenon arc treated fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as tensile test, weight loss, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, yellowness, color, SEM etc. Tensile strength and the crystal diffraction intensity of silk fabrics decreased as Xenon arc hem treatment time increased. Weight loss increased slightly. Strength retention was decreased as the Xenon arc beam treatment time goes by. (Yellowness of the undyed silk fabrics and $L^*$ of the dyed silk fabrics increased. Whiteness of the undyed silk fabrics and $b^* of the dyed silk fabrics decreased.) SEM results of the silk fabrics treated Xenon arc beam show that surface was a little damaged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.3 s.9
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• pp.45-49
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• 2006

Silk Industry doesn't have enough strategic ability to plan the product for internal and external strong competition and global luxury trend in Jinju. To provide silk fashion planning information and planning method, this study investigated the fabric planning system, such as product system and problems, the method of seeking information, via questionnaires for 68 Jinju silk companies. The results were that the Korean traditional garment, Han-bok and lining of that were given more wight in Jinju Silk for domestic, and the next, neckties. These silk had produced by OEM and didn't have almost my planning ability, but nowadays buyers wanted to get some planning ideas from manufactures, not giving any planning guideline before production, more and more. For Jinju Silk Fabric Companies, planning direction of silk fabrics of vision were needed, that had to be adaptable to manufacture situation and applicable to market.