• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.269-276
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• 2005

In this study, cross-cultural comparison of sound sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics between Korea and America was performed and prediction models for sound sensation by objective measurements including sound parameters such as level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic characteristics, and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System were established for each nation to explore the objective parameters explaining sound sensation of the Korean traditional silk. As results, Koreans felt the silk fabric sounds soft and smooth while Americans were revealed as perceiving them hard and rough. Both Koreans and Americans were pleasant with sounds of Gongdan and Newttong and especially Newttong was preferred more by Americans in terms of sound sensation. In prediction models, some of subjective sensation were found as being related mainly with mechanical properties of traditional silk fabrics such as surface and compressional characteristics.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.201-204
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• 1999

The silk/paper mulberry paper was prepared by recycling of the hard twisted silk waste and its mechanical properties was investigated. The silk waste was pretreated with sodium hydroxide(0.5%) and sodium carbonate(4%) to make it easy for beating and fibrillation. The silk/paper mulberry hand sheet paper has better mechanical properties of tearing strength and air permeability compared with the traditional and modified traditional paper. Treating with alkaline solution, the hard twisted silk waste could be used for an novel composite material.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.450-456
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• 2006

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters - loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ${\Delta}L\;and\;{\Delta}f$. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.163-177
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• 2024

Korea has preserved a highly sophisticated silk fabric culture throughout its history. Among these fabrics, Ra (羅) was considered to be a premium gauze fabric that required advanced skill and dedication to utilize. Ra is a complex gauze fabric in which four warp threads are twisted together and intersect with the weft to form intricate holes. This unique structure gives Ra its distinctive transparency and elasticity among silk textiles. It was widely used for veils, garments, and various items from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. However, its complex weaving process limited production efficiency, leading to its decline. Today, Ra has become obsolete. This study focuses on the elastic characteristics of Ra, where intersecting warp threads create net-like structured holes. This stucturre was emulated by developing a silk knit using a Raschel knitting machine. The developed product consists of three types: one replicating the alternating complex structure present in the traditional patterns of Munra (紋羅), another reproducing the distinctive hexagonal holes of the 4-end complex gauze, and the last expressing the hexagonal holes with the weft passing through them. Inspired by Ra's traditional uses in clothing and everyday items, various products were designed and produced. These include a women's coat with Akjureum, a 17th-century Joseon-style women's Jeogori, a modern market-style Jeogori, and a envelope inspired by a Goryeo Dynasty pouch artifact. These items confirm the potential and applicability of the developed silk knit as a material for modern Hanbok products. This study underscores the significance of developing new textiles that incorporate traditional materials, highlighting how tradition can be preserved in diverse ways.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.32-37
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• 2004

1. 생사의 종류가 명주실 현에 미치는 영향을 구명하기 위하여 시험한 결과 강력과 신도가 각기 다른 4가지의 생사로 만든 명주실 현은 강력과 신도는 생사 때보다 그 차이가 줄어들어 생사종류에 따른 차이는 없었다. 2. 명주실 현의 연고정 온도 시험에서 현의 강력은 80∼11$0^{\circ}C$ 사이에서는 차이가 적었으나 12$0^{\circ}C$에서 저하되었고 절단하중 70%에서의 절단까지의 반복회수는 11$0^{\circ}C$까지는 큰 차이가 없다가 12$0^{\circ}C$에서 현저히 저하되었으므로 이러한 물성을 감안하면 11$0^{\circ}C$ 20분정도가 적당하였다.

• 한국잠사학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국잠사학회 2003년도 International Symposium of Silkworm/Insect Biotechnology and Annual Meeting of Korea Society of Sericultural Science
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• pp.34-38
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• 2003

The silk fibre Produced by the larvae of the lepidopter of the Bombyx mori species is no doubt one of the most precious raw materials employed in manufacturing textile products. The present report, however, deals with silk not as a traditional textile fibre, but as a starting material fer biomedical applications. In recent years, the unique chemical and mechanical properties of silk have made this protein polymer highly attractive for innovative applications, which mainly focus on the development of devices for biomedical uses. (omitted)

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제44권2호
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• pp.93-98
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• 2002

천연쪽 색소를 사용하는 의한 견직물의 염색 방법을 확립하고자 시험결과 환원제인 Sodium Hydrosulfite를 사용한 경우 염색온도가 3$0^{\circ}C$에서는 30분, 5$0^{\circ}C$에서는 10분 염색 한 것이 표면 염착농도(K/S)가 가장 높았고, 염색액의 pH 7.4 정도인 환원제 및 염료량을 4 g/l일 경우에 가장 높았다. 1회 염색직물의 표면염착농도(K/S)는 개선은 7.20, 기존염색 방법은 1.09이었으며, 염색 직물의 분리한 색소와 염료색소는 모두 청색색소와 적색색소의 2개의 성분이었고 분자량은 262이었으며, 기존과 개선 모두 정균율은 99.8%이상으로 항균성 이 우수하였다.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.41-47
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• 2005

1. 가야금 줄의 내구성을 향상시키기 위하여 가야금 줄에 acrylic adhesive와 poly(vinyl alcohol)을 병용 처리한 결과 강려과 신도는 차이가 없었으나 하중 70%에서 절단할때까지의 반복회수는 화학가공처리 현이 무 처리한 현보다 48% 향상되었으므로 현의 내구성을 크게 향상시킬 수 있었으나 흡습율이 무처리 현보다 높았다. 2. 현의 내구성을 증대시키고 음량을 풍부하게 할 목적으로 생사와 polyester사의 혼합비율을 달리하면서 생사/폴리에스텔 복합현을 제조하고 물성을 조사한 결과 polyester사의 비율이 많아질수록 강력이 감소하였고 신도는 증가하여 가야금 줄로서 적당하지 않았으나 mono filament 사로서 강력이 우수한 polyester사를 사용하여 복합현을 만든 SSP 복합현의 경우 생사로 만든 현보다 강력이 우수하였다. 3. 새로운 현의 소재를 개발하기 위하여 생사(가잠사)와 작잠사와의 복합현을 제조하고 그 물성을 조사한 결과 가잠사/작잠사 복합현의 강력은 작잠사와 비율이 많아질수록 저하되었다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.37-42
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• 2006

Researches to preserve and restore the remaining fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated silk fabrics, degummed silk fabrics and safflower dyed silk fabrics were prepared for an experiment. These fabrics were photo-degraded by the Xenon arc beam to have various strength retention(100%, 80%, 60%, 40%, 20%). The fine structure and physical properties of Xenon arc treated fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as tensile test, weight loss, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, yellowness, color, SEM etc. Tensile strength and the crystal diffraction intensity of silk fabrics decreased as Xenon arc hem treatment time increased. Weight loss increased slightly. Strength retention was decreased as the Xenon arc beam treatment time goes by. (Yellowness of the undyed silk fabrics and $L^*$ of the dyed silk fabrics increased. Whiteness of the undyed silk fabrics and $b^* of the dyed silk fabrics decreased.) SEM results of the silk fabrics treated Xenon arc beam show that surface was a little damaged.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.45-49
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• 2006

Silk Industry doesn't have enough strategic ability to plan the product for internal and external strong competition and global luxury trend in Jinju. To provide silk fashion planning information and planning method, this study investigated the fabric planning system, such as product system and problems, the method of seeking information, via questionnaires for 68 Jinju silk companies. The results were that the Korean traditional garment, Han-bok and lining of that were given more wight in Jinju Silk for domestic, and the next, neckties. These silk had produced by OEM and didn't have almost my planning ability, but nowadays buyers wanted to get some planning ideas from manufactures, not giving any planning guideline before production, more and more. For Jinju Silk Fabric Companies, planning direction of silk fabrics of vision were needed, that had to be adaptable to manufacture situation and applicable to market.