• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.159-176
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• 1994

This study's purpose is to find the ancient costume of the folk song's words on Dunhuang manuscripts in the background wass-carvings sculptures and several art works. Dunhuang had played the part of major route between ancient China and Europe. It is located on kam-suksong the west of China. 1. In the aspect of costume arrangement hair Styling is represented by Naegagyo, Wangyesa, Kyongburak, Bonkwyun, Pogurak, Chonsonja, Namgaja, Tongson-ga, Ojesa, Chanboja in Dunhuang manuscripts. tugue is sim-ilar to Sabyokkwanja in Naegagyo as of that time these kinds of Kwan-ja was very popular. It was told that emperor's wife concubine and maid of honor would wear kwnaja favorably. And the kinds of Tugeu is PuyongKwyunkye, Aangunkye, Chunkye from Kyuwanjon except Sangunkye, Ounkye in Dunhuangsa. 2. Jangdaegy is guoted from Kyuw-anjon -A series of the chinese history book-tells us about women's make-up . The narmes of make-up are Hongjang Unjan--g, Yiljang chwejang, Tam-ajang Murgjang, Sanagjang, Light-make up are referred in Naegagyo is included as packjang Besides we can find other make-up skills Huphwaro and Rujang from the Kaewonch onbon-wisa which was Yangkwibi's episodes. We can find the a corpus of song's words about cosmetic custom in Kor-ea. Which is 'Haecho' folk song in the souther-en costal regions 'Jinggum' folk song in Kim-hae regions and so on.... It's words is similar to Dunhuangsa in China. 3. Bichun inherited to China with India Bud-dism art in the middle of Dunhuang wall-pain-tings is one of the important Buddist saint. Sometimes it is painted with Giakchun Its arms of fly-dnacing in heaven with colored belt on body has almost the form of play on the musical instrument, We can see seasily the form in the painting of Buddist ser-mon. It was progressed and changed with the background of chinese traditional culture. When Dang's period came the color was chan-ged lighting dark blue has rhythmical and viv-id power of life. 4. Among the corpus of song's words which express the singers' system and rites of their tradition or habits. Dunhuang manuscripts des-cribes on behalf of the folk song's words in tra-ditional costume. This is following: (1) Naegagyo o sabyokwanja o Chyrasam o Rashang (2) Wangyesa o Sokryugun o Costume for fisher man (3) Bungajang of the chanboja o Ajang (4) Pongkwyun o Chongui (5) Tongsongs o Junofore (6) Namgaja o thin-Rasam (7) Yuchungnang o Hongsam o Sokryugun : The color of red costume (8) Kyongburak o Hongrasam o Sokryugun : Costume for charming woman Therefore traditional costume could be extracted according to the Dunhuang folk song's words out of culture such as learning rit-es three-obedience four-virtues and in-struction. As the same time it reflects ancient China's characteristics directly. I would endeavor to development for the history of the costume furher creative design and participat-ed in research activity with concerns forward continuously.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.35-51
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to have a new understanding of the freewheeling beauty inhering in the Korean western costumes, traditionally the freewheeling beauty has been the root of Korean beauty expressed in the Korean feeling. First, the theoritical inquiry for this study was processed to understand formativeness of the Korean popular arts, folk painting, pottery, pansori(dramatic song), masked dance. The results of the theoritical analysis were as follows; the korean beauty inherited in the Korean popular arts, was represented plastic words as good-humor, unsophisticated, homely, plainness, simplicity, artless, unartificial, crudely etc, the freewheeling beauty implied the beauty of good-humor, the beauty of naivety. In conclusion, the creative Korean beauty reflected in the western costumes by Korean designers was derived from freewheeling characteristics of Korean feeling. After this study, I came to conclusion that it‘s very important to recover, reperceive, revaluate the inner meanings inherited Korean western costumes.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.8
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• pp.89-119
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• 2009

Kim, Jun-Geun(Gisan) was a late 19th century Chosen dynasty painter who created numerous genre paintings for West European clients in the newly opened treaty ports of Wonsan, Busan and Inchon. The treaty ports in the late 19th century Chosen represented of the crossroads the economy, values, and the institutions of the West European powers. In particular, the agriculture-based economy, Confucianism, and land-owner noble class started being eroded by a commerce-based economy, the values of Christianity, West European institution, and a new class of people who amassed wealth from commerce. As Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings were created for sale to West European clients, they exhibit characteristics that are distinct from the traditional genre paintings in terms of presentation style and the selection of the subject matters. The export genre painting originated in the 18th century around Guangdong, China. Broadly, there are two styles of genre paintings: the Guangzhou style and Ningbo style. Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings resemble the Ningbo style. The Ningbo style tends to highlight the main subjects, form an album of small paintings, and provide a simple treatment of the scenes without the background. Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings cover most aspects of life of common people of his time, ranging well beyond the subjects matters of the traditional genre paintings. His subject matters include the scenes of funeral, folk games, Buddhist and ancestor worship, prison and punishment, shaman custom, debauchees, government officials' formal trips, beggars and handicapped, etc. Many of the subjects are the neglected and the oppressed of the society. And he presents in detail the dress and its ornament that the subjects wear, and all the utensils and things around them. Besides, his subjects' faces are generally expressionless, and their postures are stiff; as such, the feeling of liveliness or movement is lacking. It may be the results of Kim, Jun-Geun's taking the other perspective, namely of his West European clients, rather than his own. The adoption of the other perspective may in turn be a product of the Social Darwinism and the new sense of values that accompanied the infusion of Christianity and West European institutions. Kim, Jun-Geun's portrayals of his subjects appear to reflect the attributes with which the West European Orientalists' of the period characterized the people of the Far East, namely, backwardness, barbarity, irrationality, violence, and mysticism.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.191-199
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• 2011

A study was done to compare the properties of artificially deteriorated silk with ultraviolets for reinforcing of loss area of paintings on silk. Deteriorated surface of raw silk irradiated by long-wavelength ultraviolet(UV-A) than short-wavelength ultraviolet(UV-C) was similar to naturally aged raw silk. UV-A irradiation raw silk was slowly decreased in tensile tenacity and elongation and lowered in yellowness index than that of UV-C. Water content of UV-A irradiation raw silk than that of UV-C was higher. UV-A irradiation raw silk had no problem in dyeing and inpainting for conservation because of low yellowness index. UV-C irradiation raw silk was brittle, but UV-A irradiation raw silk was seemed to tough and similar to naturally aged raw silk. Korean painting conservator estimated that UV-A irradiation raw silk was more proper for reinforcing of loss area of paintings on silk than that of UV-C.

• Archives of design research
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.187-196
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• 2002

This article is a study on modern wall painting of Korea. The system of wall paintings in Korea is studied in the first chapter. It contains the function, the painters'peculiar character, the psychological basis and the subjects of wall painting. The most popular subjects are the Lee dynasty's folk custom and visual symbols of this period. The second chapter sees the study of these subjects in Lacan's psychoanalytic view. The representation of Lee dynasts custom in this post modern society reveal that the Korean lives in the realm of the imaginary in visual level. That is the projection of their desire to be in the perfect community which is believed to be existed in Lee's dynasty. However the visual circumstance in Korea is the symbolic which is constructed of the Western symbols. This visual confliction reveals Korean Habitus and the lack of independent visual expression method. For conclusion, it is proposed that the relation of Korean Habitus and design must be studied to create proper visual circumstance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.16-32
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• 2022

In the intensely competitive global fashion market, the use of cultural elements to enhance design has become increasingly widespread. However, there is a lack of research on challenges and opportunities associated with integrating cultural elements of Minhwa into fashion design. Moreover, diverse approaches to incorporate Korean cultural elements into contemporary fashion designs are still needed. This study aims to reveal the real-world challenges relating to the incorporation of Korean cultural elements, including Minhwa, into fashion design and to clarify the possibility of applying Lin's cultural levels to cultural aspects in accordance with experts' views. To establish a theoretical foundation, the literature review on cultural design and Minhwa studies was conducted. It analyzes Minhwa to gain an understanding of the characteristics associated with different cultural levels. In-depth interviews with fashion industry professionals and Minhwa artists were conducted to ascertain their attitudes toward Minhwa use. The study's major findings were threefold. First, the cultural design facilitates the introduction, promotion, understanding, and maintenance of the culture. Since Minhwa offers rich inspiration linked to Korean culture, Minhwa-related designs can provide new perspectives while still having commercial potential. Second, however, the limitations of existing cultural designs included their being outdated, superficial without interpretation, unsophisticated, or limited. Furthermore, the use of Minhwa is limited since it is difficult to avoid creating superficial and unsophisticated designs in the real world. Third, approaching Minhwa at different cultural levels can promote diverse thinking and reduce the challenges of Minhwa use in design, but the major challenge remains visual expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.865-879
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• 1997

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 21, Nt. 5 (1997) p. 865∼879 The purpose of the study is to identify a historical change about the women's underwear and trousers this nation of ours until an ancient times to modern ages. Because the record of the women's trousers exist scarcely anything, the study refers to several documents, for example, the literatures of the Chinese and the Chosun Dynasty, the Koryu's fresco, the Tou of Shinra, the painting of the rock face, the archaeological dresses and genre pictures, and The folkways methods through the residents is used to collect and to arrange of an enlightened age and modern times. Originally, the women's trousers appeared for the nomadism and the hunting in the northern distric and the northeastern provinces. Male and female, old and young wear the trousers which are the clothes native to Korea. The trousers which are originally narrow trousers are influnced by Chinese wide trousers. The trousers at the time of Samsuk hand down until Korea. The Skirt on the trousers is nothing but a courtesy. But gradually, it is distinguished only the trousers, and then, there are exchanged an underwear which not only the protection angainst the cold but also the beautiful. Therefore, the form of skirt is diminished, and the underwear is simplified as the increasing status and the activity of woman in the age of civilization. In a way, the reform trousers and Three-kingdom era trousers appeared and the Dansogok and Sogok disappeared at present. There are confirmed in my investigation of folk customs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.85-95
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• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.153-166
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• 1996

The purpose of this paper is to examine the Ethnic Fashion which is influenced by the Anti-Fashion in 1960s. Anti-Fashion as Hippie style had an effect on high fashion in the 60s-70s and which was restored in the early 90s are ethnic and folk-lore style. The influence that the Anti-Fashion has had on the Ethnic Fashion is summarized as follows. At the Ethnic Fashion in 60s-70s: First Europian romantic style that is velvet doublet breecheese race cuffs ruffle flounce race jabbot embrioderd blouse frilled blouse Victorian mode and Pre-Raphaello style. Second handicraft ornaments style & peasant style what are embroidery weaving variaty ornaments tie-dye patch work smocking beads & bell paisely print peasant blouse dundle skirt long skirt to clinging layered look floral print dress and shepherd-ness style. Third folklore style that is Oriental mao-suit harem pants & Indian pants caftan monk robe Afgan vest burnoos dhoti pants Hindu robe Red Indian fringe head band feather ornaments Red indian embroidery & weaving body painting gaucho poncho and serapi. At the Ethnic Fashion in 90s.: First Europian classical romantic style that is Victorian style Pre-Raphaello style ruffle & race decorations and velvet materials. Second peasant look& handicraft orna-ments what are floral print long skirt to cling-ing uneven stitches top stitchings patch work embroidery crochet and tie-dye. Third folklore style that is Red Indian style South East mode is sarong skirt & Nheru jacket Tibet & Mongolian style South America style and gypso style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.114-126
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the art characteristics of Japonism expressed in Art Nouveau jewelry. This study also provided an opportunity to seek for the development direction of contemporary jewelry design for the future. The influence of Japanese arts in Art Nouveau jewelry, was mostly from Ukiyo-e, an art form from the Edo Dynasty in Japan. Japanese arts soon inspired the origination of Art Nouveau across Europe in the late 19th century. And the scope of its infuluence is shown in jewelry which created by contemporary painters and designers. Ukiyo-e, a folk painting was created from multi-color wooden printmaking emerged many Japanese art collectors, including Samuel Bing and Arthur Lasenby Liberty. This became a source of new inspirations for Degas, Monet, Gogh and the origin of Japonism. The layout techniques that used perspectives higher than eye level and that extremely cut or expanded major objects for emphasis were typical Ukiyo-e characteristics. The result of this study is found out by showing the evidence that influence of this Ukiyo-e's method came up with specificity as planity, naturality, decoration and express on the Art Nouveau jewelry.