• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.19-29
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is for consideration of John Galliano's fashion design works. Galliano, young British designer, became the chief designer of Givenchy in 1995 and of Christian Dior in 1996. Through fashion information from WWD, High Fashion, Mode et Mode, Collezioni, Vogue, Internet sites and video tapes from 1995 to 1999, his works were concerned for this study. The results are as followed; First, we can find dynamics in Galliano's works. The dynamic mood came from his study about historic costume. Second, new beauty from dismantling and reconstruction was expressed on his designs. Third, his experimental creativities were based on fashion business. Therefore Galliano's eccentricity signify the Maximalism against the Minimalism which dominated the end of 20th century. So we can find a clue to new millenium in fashion world in his designs.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.15-32
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• 2012

From the beginning of the twentieth century, 'Modernism' impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso's innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel's fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly decorative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has examined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer's environment from different perspectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel's visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.457-470
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• 1992

Several scholars have discussed the relationship between fine art and fashion in meaning and expression. They have established that fashion and fine art are different branches from the same root, the Zeitgeist (time spirit), and that the Zeitgeist is materialized by various expres-sion techniques. The objective of this paper is to discuss how designers' interpretation of the Zeitgeist is expressed in their work, focusing on the 60's American society and designer Rudi Gernreich. The 60's were the period with revolutionary changes both in society itself and clothing. Rudi is the representative of the 60's designers who is called the most avant-garde and American household designer at the same time. Despite his prominent status as an avant-garde designer and social commentator, however, he has not been discussed in depth in the Korean clothing society. The consistent theme of his work was young and free spirit, and women's liberation which reflected the time he lived in. His successful interpretation of the Zeitgeist of the 60's made him establish the American-look, simple and free to move.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.789-808
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• 2010

The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.

• 복식
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• 제65권6호
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• pp.133-147
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• 2015

The aim of this study is to review the creative fashion installation of Henrik Vibskov, Danish designer. Its intention is to contribute useful information for more innovative fashion presentation. As a research method, document and case study were performed and his collections from 2004 F/W to 2016 S/S were analyzed. In fashion installation, the designer puts objects in meaningful spaces in order to convey a certain message, to make an integrated artwork, and to interact with spectator. It has been used in fashion exhibitions, as well as in the set design of fashion performance and fashion show. The results were as follows. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation has three features, which are 1)conceptual theme approach that communicates a twisted and metaphoric message, with a poetic and interesting show title, 2) surrealistic scenography that plays with fragmentation of the human body, clustering of plastic and symbolic objects, innovative color transformations, and visual trickery between figures and the background, and 3) setting for multisensory performance that makes spectators interact by making artistic objects and surroundings, which stimulates the five senses. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation can exist as an independent artwork, and not just as a supporting piece for a fashion show. It has both artistic and fashionable values, and can be an effective fashion presentation communicating his conceptual fashion themes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.630-647
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• 2021

As generations Y and Z gain influence, luxury fashion brands are interacting with younger digital consumers through fashion film, seeking to offer them a differentiated brand experience. Using a literature review addressing characteristics of fashion films as a communication medium and luxury fashion brands' heritage in the digital era, this study examines how brands express their heritage through fashion film, categorizing those expressions in terms of implicit meaning. The case study analyzed films from Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior, and Burberry uploaded to YouTube between 2018 and 2020. First, to retain their status as luxury, brands emphasize historical legitimacy. Specifically, they highlight their iconic historical image, their succession of creative directors, valuable historic locations, and diversity of consumer's brand experiences. Second, by stressing craftsmanship, integrating contemporary art and local culture, and utilizing a museum aura, they use brand heritage to acquire luxury status. Third, they attempt to mythify the founders by creating the persona of the fashion designer and the artist. The results show that the heritage depicted in fashion films is a key way in which luxury fashion brands resolve the tension between accessibility and exclusivity that they encounter and to get consumers emotionally engaged with brands.

• 패션정보와 기술
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• 제5권
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• pp.22-26
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• 2008

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권6호
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• pp.1124-1140
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• 2017

The purposes of this study are to (1) explore the characteristics of consumers who purchase products designed by rising fashion designers, and (2) examine the effects of consumer fashion innovativeness and price consciousness on consumer responses toward the products (i.e., product innovativeness, perceived value, and purchase intention). A total of 469 adult consumers aged 19 to 59 responded to an online survey that consisted of a stimulus (i.e., news article introducing new brands of rising fashion designers) and measurement items. As a result, 20% of respondents are found to be customers of rising fashion designers. These buyers (vs. non-buyers) are characterized as female, high income, and high interest toward rising fashion designer products. The findings from structural equation modeling show that fashion innovativeness and price sensitivity have significant, positive effects on product innovativeness and perceived value that further increase purchase intention. These relationships are significant in terms of perceived value dimensions, except for the relationship between social value and purchase intention. Both fashion innovativeness and price sensitivity have significant and positive effects on social, emotional, economical, and functional values. The emotional, economical, and functional values also have significant, positive effects on purchase intention. The implications of these findings are discussed in the conclusion.

• 패션정보와 기술
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• 제12권
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• pp.2-9
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• 2015

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.46-62
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• 2020

This study analyzed contextual expression types in modern fashion show space derived from the architecture based on Pepper's Contextualism. Pepper's Contextualism theory was applied to fashion showcases of the world's four largest collections from 2010 to 2020 by analyzing contextual expression in architecture, resulting in six contextual expression types. The first type was natural environmental contextual expression in which a modern fashion was fused with the natural environment using the natural environment's context. The second type was a temporal contextual expression expressed by blending the theme of a fashion show and an artificial environment that could express past, present, and future issues. The third type was a spatial contextual expression that extended in a flat or three-dimensional direction. This expression could connect with customers in the field. The fourth type was an associative contextual expression that could formally present the theme of a fashion show or a designer's inspiration by borrowing a specific place. The fifth type was an ideological contextual expression that could express a designer's concept or value through a fashion show's design. The sixth type was a contextual communication expression that could allow viewers to immerse themselves in the space of a fashion show venue mentally through a morphological or virtual technique and experience a fashion show.