• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.1-15
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to interpret the artistic nature of fashion from the point of view of George Dickie's Institutional theory of art, which defined art from a sociological context. Five notions to formulate the institutional definition of art were regarding the artist, work of art, public, artworld, and artworld system. These notions were applied to the fashion world, and they deduced the definitions of a fashion designer, a fashion product, a fashion consumer, and the fashion system, which indicated fashion's social status in the art system. Firstly, a fashion designer plays a collective role in the product with an understanding of the consumers, professional knowledge of the design, and knowledge of making images of fashion products. Secondly, a fashion product involves artifactuality in the form of clothes created by collaboration among producers and it is transformed into fashion by collective activity of distributors and consumers. Thirdly, a consumer is a set of people who play a leading role in the assessment and consumption of the fashion product, allow the fashion designer to read his or her taste and reflect it in the fashion product although they are not directly involved in its production. Fourthly, a fashion system is a social framework for the presentation of a fashion product by a fashion designer to a consumer, and a social institution which enables clothes to transform into fashion through design, production, display, distribution, and sales. As a result, fashion is defined as an artifact in the form of clothes created by a fashion designer and presented to a consumer by the fashion system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.966-978
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• 2012

Fashion exhibitions in museums and galleries is a form of fashion communication media. This thesis examines the messages, objects, and space of fashion exhibitions as fashion communication media as well as analyzes the method of fashion communication. This thesis first provides a theoretical study on fashion exhibition and conducts a case study of the 2012 Nora Noh Retro Exhibition La Vie en Rose (2012/5/23-6/2, Horim GNB Gallery, Seoul), dedicated to the first Korean female fashion designer. The message of the exhibition was the fashion philosophy and the fashion style of the designer as well as the intention of the curator. The objects presented were the dresses kept by the loyal customers of the brand, and the homage items by designers of present generation. The space designs of the exhibition were the layout and total coordination of the opening event. The methods of fashion communication for the fashion exhibition, in the case of the La Vie en Rose exhibition, were communicated (1) from the past to the present, (2) from designers to celebrities and (3) from the designer to the celebrity and the viewers. From the past to the present, the designer's style throughout the 60 years of her fashion career is conveyed to the present generation fashion people, in the form of homage designs and collaboration works. From designers to celebrities, her fashion philosophy was delivered in the form of movie and stage costumes. Some present generation celebrities tried reinterpretations of the garment. From the designer to the celebrity and the viewers of the exhibition, the intention of the curator and the designer were individualized and internalized by the viewers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.43-57
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• 2013

The purpose of this research is to systemize the fashion digital storytelling by analyzing the communication method and its elements, and extracting the characteristics and processes of digital storytelling. Based on the previous study on the characteristics and types of storytelling the following things have been researched: 1) the process of digital storytelling in the communication process, 2) the concept and the feature of the academia of digital storytelling 3) storytelling in the document research. On the groundwork of the document research, we were able to sort out the various types, and formed a system of the features in the fashion digital storytelling cases, mainly in the four collections (Milan, Paris, London, New York) from 2000's to recent years of 2010. The types of fashion digital storytelling are episode type, narrative type, and creative type. The characteristics of each of the types are as follows. Firstly, the episode type communicates through the digital media based on the information or fact of the fashion designer brand. Secondly, narrative type communicates with the consumers using previous literature or an existing idea of the original cultural form that is rearranged in digital story expressed by the digital media. Lastly, creative type makes the designer's and consumer's susceptibility and creativity communicate through the newly made story, which expresses the unique originality of the designer. It seems that the cases and studies of using the fashion digital storytelling will increase because of its short history and lack of the case study. Fashion designer brands will show their brand image using the digital storytelling because they are able to better express originality, creativity and imagination of the fashion designer, which were factors that could not be conveyed through fashion alone.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.52-75
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to classify the historical features of mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion with a focus on 'Nora Noh', who is a first generation Korean fashion designer. The specific questions of this research are as follows: how did mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion and the Nora Noh brand develop and what is the relationship between the two? What are the important features of Korean women's fashion design in the mid-to-late twentieth century? What are the characteristics exhibited in each decade in Korean women's fashion and Nora Noh's fashion? This paper conducted the research by focusing on the Korean fashion development as a background of simplification in the way of dressing and specific historical incident. Researchers deployed a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing content as well as eleven oral statement interviews and the case study of Nora Noh. The result shows that Nora Noh is one of the first generation of Korean fashion designers who led fashion trend and system in Korea. The designer also influenced Korean commercial fashion in the 1970s and American fashion trends in the 1980s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.838-851
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• 2015

This study explores the level of designer brands' market oriented attitude through a conceptual framework of market orientation. Designer brands have rapidly increased in the Korean fashion market with a competitive environment that pushes designers to improve market oriented attitudes and strategy. Designers working for 20 brands that the government designated as 'promising creative designer brands' were invited for in-depth interviews, 19 designers from 18 brands participated in this study. The generation of market intelligence that composes market orientation meant that the designers were confirmed to collecting different types of information according to information sources. They showed interest in collecting information on the exploration of design trends from overseas designers as well as operational and managerial information from domestic designers. Fashion-related stakeholders mainly collected feedback on design concepts from the press and public institutions. They collected customer feedback from buyers; however, appropriate feedback was inadequate. Designers generally appeared to place less value on the collection of customer responses and opinions; however, two groups of designers showed customer-oriented attitudes according to accumulated experience. The market-oriented attitude of top designers had an important role in designer brands; consequently, top designers should be properly trained to improve market-oriented attitudes to increase market performance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.90-102
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to identify the phases of the fashion merchandising process and the range of the fashion designer's work as well as performing degree at each stage according to the brand types of domestic women's apparel. The preliminary research was conducted with the chief designers of five woman's apparel manufactures located in Seoul and the questionnaires were collected from 192 fashion designers. They were measured by the five point Likert-type scales. For a data analysis, the Pearson's Correlation, ANOVA, Sheffe Test, MANOVA were used with SPSS V. 11.0. The results are as follows; 1. The steps which fashion designers of domestic apparel brand take in fashion merchandising process have been identified in 7 stages- Environment Information, Target Market Planning, Design Planning, Design Development, Price Settlement, Presentation & Line Release, Production. 2. The task achievement level of fashion designers in fashion merchandising process differs in brand types as well as in fashion merchandising stages. In NB, the designer's work was conducted in order of Design Planning(M=4.58)$\to$Presentation & Line release(M=4.31)$\to$ Environment Information(M=3.83)$\to$Target Market Planning(M=3.13). In DB, in order of Price Settlement (M=4.80)$\to$Production(M=4.33)$\to$Design Development(M=4.27)$\to$Design Planning(M=3.77)$\to$Presentation & Line release(M=3.20)$\to$Environment Information (M2.70). In GB, in order of Production(M=4.38)$\to$Design Planning(M=4.22)$\to$Price Settlement(M4.16)$\to$Environment Information(M=3.83)$\to$Merchandising Target Market (M=3.72)$\to$Design Development(M=3.65). 3. Considering the other factors such as sales, the amount of owning shops, item amounts that are related to the company size, this study shows that only the brand type affects designer's task achievement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.38-50
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• 2010

Many fashion designers are actively pursuing strategic alliances with other brands. The purpose of this study is to identify the differences in images between the original brands and the alliance brands made by fashion designers. This study also aims to review consumers' purchasing attitudes towards alliance brands products. Questionnaires were distributed to adults in their 20s and above, which were then collected. The research findings illuminated the differences in images between original brand products and the alliance brand products made by fashion designers. It was found that the fashion designer (A) brand mainly had luxurious, attractive and quality images, while its alliance brand mainly had practical and durable images. On the other hand, the fashion designer (B) brand mainly had quality and durable images, while its alliance brand mainly had luxurious, characteristic and attractive images. The fashion designer (Ga) brand mainly had characteristic, sophisticated and quality images, while its alliance brand mainly had trendy, attractive and practical images. The fashion designer (Na) brand mainly had trendy, characteristic and attractive images, while its alliance brand mainly had practical images.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.8
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• pp.179-199
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• 2003

This study was intended to probe the scheme for correctly making Korean fashion design known to the world. It is because its suggestion could find out in the current influence of Japanese designer works led to fashion in Europe and the U.S. It can be said that this success was attributed to Japanese high economic growth, increased interests in fashion, increased awareness of the fashion industry, production of designers activity in the world area, systematic and active support of the fashion circles and government for the fashion industry and so on. Korean government has recently begun to attempt to nurture Koreanism or Korean look as world-class fashion. But there are a considerable number of obstacles in making Koreanism or Korean look known to the world due to such several factors as the lack of interests in fashion, the lack of globally active designers, and the like. It is necessary to nurture the fashion industry and educate and train designers for the long-term perspective. In addition, both the government and the fashion circles need to provide for more active and reasonable policy for holding the Korean Fashion Fair, expanding the Seoul Collection to the more global level, opening the way for new designers, and so forth. Furthermore, our academic circles need to make much research on the scheme for the glottalization of Koreanism or Korean look.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.1-12
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• 2008

This study begins by establishing the theory that paintings serve as a visual documentation of a particular era and record the ideal fashions and customs about dress behavior through the costumes represented in them and examines the close relationship between fashion and art, focusing on the influence of art on fashion, as well as that of fashion on art, for both painters and fashion designers. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects of study are written references and dresses represented in paintings produced in the 19th century. Painters who were the subject of documentation created or popularized new fashion styles before the concept of 'fashion designer' was introduced in history. In order to capture and represent the ideal beauty of certain period, painters understood the important role of fashion. Their work not only included the designing of costumes or accessories for the sitters, but also the spreading of new fashion styles by showing the sitters wearing them. Study of the mutual relationship between fashion and art grew more vigorous among many intellectuals in a variety of fields beginning in the 19th century. The standing of fashion was elevated and the concept of the 'fashion designer' was introduced and the interest in the themes of a specific style or the background of a trend increased during this time period. Many contemporary fashion designers created dresses inspired by the costumes represented in paintings. The result of this study which focuses on the relationships between fashion, artist, fashion designer and art is that connection between fashion and art is closely and firmly formed. For several hundred years, painters were the creators as well as promulgators of fashion and fashion designers, from the 19th century until today, have obtained their creative inspiration from art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.31-46
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• 2010

Fashion industry is faced with issues of raising the competitiveness of established designers recently. As well as the change of business system, the specialization of professionals in design team increases the needs of in-service training of fashion designers. But, the education programs of enterprise are generally focused on adaptability to the organization and harmony among men as an introduction level. Furthermore, there are few professional institutions that give an education to the working-level designers. Thus, this study aimed at development of specialized in-service training program that could educate established designers for more integrated thought to cope with rapid changes in the fashion field. Firstly, the theoretical study on the in-service training and changes of fashion environment had been studied through literature review. Then, the current state of in-service training of fashion enterprises and the courses for established designers in fashion institutions were analysed. Finally, a comprehensive framework of in-service training program for fashion designers has been established as a result of this study. The program was designed in accordance with the previous research which reached 4 different educational needs for in-service training: brand planning and management, understanding production, understanding practical fabrics & colors, computer program. The study went further to apply the program to each design group divided by career: new designer, junior designer, senior designer, design leader. This study also suggested evaluation process to confirm the effects.