• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1167-1176
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• 2000

운동화 안감으로 사용되는 부드러운 천연 가죽의 내부 구조 및 쾌적성과 유사하게 개발한 3종류의 편성포에 관하여 수분 전달 능력을 비교 측정하였다. 편성포 표면에 이면으로 땀액의 이동성을 측정하기 위하여 새로운 실험 절차를 고안하여 측정한 결과, 편성포에 가한 압력은 수분 이동 능력에 영향을 미치지 않았다. 그러나 편성포의 기모가 있는 표면과 기모가 없는 이면의 수분 이동 능력이 달랐고, 3종류중 한 편성포에서는 표면의 기모는 수분전달을 저하시켰다. 표면은 기모, 이면은 평편조직으로 두껍고 무거운 편성포의 수분전달이 가장 좋았고 이 편성포와 같은 조직이면서 두께와 중량이 적은 편성포는 수분전달이 감소되었다. 수분이동 능력을 향상시키기 위하여 편성포의 섬유와 구조를 고려할 때 기모량은 중간 정도이고 기모된 표면을 수분에 접하도록 하는 것이 바람직하다. 이렇게 함으로서 더 효과적인 수분 이동이 이루어져서 피부 표면에서 땀증발이 좋았다. 이 연구에 사용된 실험 방법은 편성포의 수분 이동 체계에 관한 이해 증진에 기여할 수 있다고 본다.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.295-304
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• 2006

High-bulk worsted yams with different shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers blend ratios are produced and then single jersey weft knitted fabrics with three different structures and loop lengths are constructed. The physical properties of produced yams and compression properties of produced fabrics at eight pressure values (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 1500 and $2000 g/cm^2$) were measured using a conventional fabric thickness tester. Then, weft-knitted fabric compression behavior was analyzed using a two parameters model. It is found that at 40 % shrinkable fibre blending ratio the maximum yam bulk, shrinkage, abrasion resistance and minimum yarn strength are obtained. It is also shown that high-bulk acrylic yarn has the highest elongation at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio. The statistical regression analysis revealed that the compression behavior of acrylic weft-knitted fabrics is highly closed to two parameter model proposed for woven fabrics. It is also shown that for weft-knitted structure, there is an incompressible layer (V') which resists against high compression load. Acrylic weft-knitted fabrics with knit-tuck structure exhibit higher compression rigidity and lower softness than the plain and knit-miss structures. In addition, at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio, the high-bulk acrylic weft-knitted fabrics are highly compressible.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.562-570
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• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.56-61
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• 1997

The silk fibroin solution was prepared and applied to the surface of fabrics for the purpose of weighting as well as a surface modification. The water-soluble fibroin solution can be obtained by dissolving the cocoon fibroin in a boiling solution of 50% calcium chloride for 60 minutes. For the fixation of a water soluble fibroin onto the fabric surface, the various methods were investigated. The fixation can be achieved on a silk fabric by the after treatment with ethanol, stannous choride and methacrylamide. On the other hand, the epichlorhydrin compound is the most promising fixation agent for a cotton fabric. As a result of the examination of property changes, the softness and crease recovery were lessened for a silk crepe fabric by treating with 1-2% fibroin solution, while those properties were improved for a silk knit fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.185-192
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• 1998

The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.109-117
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• 2010

Knit fabrics are created on diverse machines with diverse knit loops and conditions to make different patterns and fabric types. Dimensional modifications of knit fabrics can also be achieved by numerous methods such as different knit-loop structures, different types of yarns, or different finishing processes including heat setting, steaming, chemical treatment et cetera. This research develops and explores sophisticated three-dimensional knit fabrics by combining the several different knit stitches including rib and purl. This study focuses on 3D knit models created on modern electronic weft (flat V-bed) knitting machines which have capability of individual needle selection. Several samples of the 3D knitted fabrics are also examined in this research. This research furthermore suggests new types of knitted fashion garment made by using the interesting physical effects.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.80-80
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• 2011

최근 환경과 건강에 대한 관심이 증대되면서, 천연 섬유를 소재로 사용한 최종 제품 역시 고급화 및 고기능화되고 있는 추세이며 섬유항균가공분야에 있어서도 천연 추출물을 이용한 항균가공이 주목을 받고 있다. 현재 항균가공에 사용되고 있는 항균제는 일반적으로 합성항균제를 사용하고 있고 이는 거의 대부분 자극성 화합물로써 인체에 잠재적 유해요인이 될 수 있고 제조 및 가공과정에서 환경오염을 유발시키는 문제점도 발생되고 있다. 반면 천연추출물을 사용할 경우 합성물질에 비해 포름알데히드 검출 등의 인체 안정성의 불안이 적어 건강차원에서 그 인식이 점차 증대되고 있는 추세이다. 천연항균물질에는 chitosan이나 식물에서 추출된 천연항균물질 등이 있는데 특히 식물에서 추출된 천연항균물질은 피톤치드(phytoncide)라고 표현되고 있으며 이는 수목들이 해충이나 미생물 등으로부터 자기방어를 위해 공기 중으로 발산하는 방향성의 항생물질을 뜻하는 말이다. 본 연구에서는 식물 중에서 피톤치드 정유의 함량이 많다고 알려진 측백나무과의 편백나무 정유를 이용하였으며 편백나무 정유가 식물성 천연 오일형태이므로 가공 처리 시 물과 계면이 발생되기 때문에 HLB(Hydrophilic Lipophlic Balance) 조건에 따른 최적 유화조건을 선정하였으며 편백나무 정유를 이용한 면직물의 항균 기능 부여를 위한 시험으로 편백나무 정유 처리 농도에 따른 항균성을 평가해 보고자 하였다. 실험 결과 편백나무 정유는 HLB 15이상 계면활성제 사용 시 물에 용해성이 좋고 안정된 에멀젼 상태를 보였으며 제조된 편백나무 정유 가공액 5%이상 처리 시 Staphylococcus aureus과 Klebsiella pneumoniae의 99.9% 정균감소율을 나타내었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1158-1167
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.737-744
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• 1999

Underwear made of plain and 1$\times$1 rib-knit cotton fabric were laundered to evaluate the change of the size and the tensile properties. For laundering pulsator and drum washers were used. After 30 washing cycles the amount of shrinkage and the extension were different with washer types. Underwear laundered by the drum type was shrunken in the neck line armhole line and hem line were extended and the bodice width and side length were shrunken,. Tensile strength of the knitted fabric was not decreased through repeated washings because the fabric density was increased. But it was confirmed by SEM that the surface of the fiber was damaged by washings.