• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제21권1호
• /
• pp.170-181
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of knit structure and knit density (machine tightness factor) on the dimensional properties and K1-4 values of weft-knitted fabrics followed over eleven cycles of mechanical relaxation to provide the basic data for constructing weft-knitted fabrics for outwear with excellent dimensional stability The eighteenth weft-knitted fabrics were produced with different knit structure (1$\times$1 rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single pique, crossmiss interlock) and machine tightness factor (loose, medium, tight) for this study. Dimensional properties such as width, lengh, area shrinkage and dimensional parameter (K) of eighteenth knitted fabrics including thickness and bulk property were measured. The results were as follows; 1. The dimensional behavior of the Ix1 rib and interlock in relaxation cycles was anisotropic, i.e., length shrinkage was usually associated with a width expansion, whereas the other weft-kntted fabrics which have tuck or miss loops in the knit structure behaved isotropically, i.e., length and width shrinkages were usually found. It was proposed that the difference in dimensional behavior between these structures was due to the dissimilar nonrelaxed geometrical shapes of the individual structural units forming these weft-knitted structures. The mechanical relaxation shrinkage of weft-knitted cotton fabrics was dependent on the tightness of construction. For a range of fabrics knitted on this study, an increase in fabric tightness caused a decrease in the length shrinkage of the fabric accompanied by an increase in its width shrinkage.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제32권12호
• /
• pp.1981-1989
• /
• 2008

개개인은 다른 이유를 가지고 동일한 또는 유사한 제품들을 구매한다. 추구 효익이란 동일한 속성에 동일한 상대적 중요성의 수준을 가지는 사람들을 군집하여 이러한 차이를 이해하려는 것이다. 본 연구에서는 니트 소재의 구성특성에 대한 추구 효익에 따라 소비자들을 세분화하고, 컨조인트 분석을 이용하여 선호도에 대한 구성특성들의 상대적 중요성을 비교 분석하여 세분화 집단에 따른 선호도에 유의한 차이가 있는지 분석하였다. 효용도에 따라서 양모 섬유를 선호하는 집단, 아크릴 섬유를 선호하는 집단과 긴 편환장을 선호하는 집단, 세개의 군집이 도출되었으며, 이들은 다른 구성특성의 이상적인 니트 소재를 선호하는 것으로 나타났다. 군집들 간에 니트 소재의 혼용률과 편환장에 대한 선호도에 유의한 차이가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 양모 섬유를 선호하는 집단은 양모 혼용률이 크고 짧은 편환장을 선호하였으며, 아크릴 섬유를 선호하는 집단과 긴 편환장을 선호하는 집단은 아크릴 혼용률이 크고 긴 편환장을 선호하였다.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권6호
• /
• pp.106-117
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present a new vision for high value-added knit wear design by designing and producing knitted one-piece dress by digital textile printing which based on digital making a new industry, culture, and lifestyle in a new millenium. According as casual fashion is more and more popular, preferring knit wear, a key item of casual fashion, continues to increases. Therefore it is important to study knit wear design practically, try a new technique, and represent creative designs. As a method of the study, visual and textural data were investigated for theory of knit and DTP and a variety of knit design samples were illustrated Especially, to perform a study based on the industry, this researcher worked and experienced at J fashion Ltd., knit wear promotion company. Firstly, the theory of DTP was investigated and then 3 knitted one-pieces were designed and produced. The concept of design was digital geometry which represented chic and modern image in digital age. Target was city adult group from the late teens to the late twenties and keeping open mind and active lifestyle and enjoying the activity and unique characteristics of knit wear. This study has developed knitted one-piece design by DTP technique which has been generally applied to woven fabric. This is of great significant in opening a new way of high value-added knit wear design.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제19권5호
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2015

The appearances and geometry structures of knitted fabrics have important effects on their functions as textile fabrics. Structural design of the woven fabric, prior to the manufacturing processes in the weaving mill, often leads to a similar predictable appearance in the final outcome with the corresponding weave design. The increase of the employment of elastic textile yarns in knitting fabrics for comfort stretch or outdoor sports wear knit products has, however, resulted in difficulties in predicting the final appearance of the knit structure design. Due to the stretchability and exceptional recovery behavior of the elastic yarns such as polyurethane elastomeric yarns, the appearance of the final product often differs from the initial knit design. At textile CAD program for preparing tricot knit designs has been employed in this study to predict the two dimensional appearance of the design. The similarities between the designs and corresponding knit products seem to be acceptable for the two-dimensional textile CAD program in this study. However, when elastomeric yarns are partially employed in the polyester filament tricot product, a considerable amount of departure from the design is apparent due to the constriction and/or deformation of property differences in the elastomeric yarns and polyester filament yarns. Therefore, another purpose of this study is to measure the departure of the final tricot product from the initial tricot design, especially in the case employing elastomeric yarns in the knit structure together with regular polyester filament yarns. For measuring the three-dimensional departure, a 3D scanning system has been used for the mesh reconstruction of the fabric specimen. Hopefully, the result from this study will be used as a guide to modify and improve the current textile CAD program proposed for the two-dimensional simulation of the tricot.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국섬유공학회 2000년도 봄 한국섬유공학회 학술발표회 논문집(Proceedings of the Korean Textile Conference)
• /
• pp.357-360
• /
• 2000

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권10호
• /
• pp.1611-1620
• /
• 2010

This research compares the difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities in order to analyze the correlations among preference, subjective hands, and sensibilities. Preference segments were classified into wool, acrylic, and long stitch length-preferred clusters in previous research. To evaluate the subjective hands and sensibilities of knit fabrics, the 20's and 30's women rated twelve knit fabrics by touching, using a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale. These twelve knit fabrics were differentiated by controlling the mixture ratio and stitch length using a computer-controlled automatic flat knit machine. The difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities was determined using the conjoint analysis. The clusters perceived the subjective hands and sensibilities differently according to preferred constituent characteristics. There was no correlation between surface unevenness and preference in wool-preferred cluster, while there were negative correlations in other clusters. The acrylic-preferred cluster had a preference in coolness compared to other clusters; in addition, the long stitch-preferred cluster preferred flexibility/bulkiness and extensibility than the others. All clusters preferred modem and natural sensibilities that were caused by different constituent characteristics of knit fabrics.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제41권7호
• /
• pp.185-200
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fitness using the draft method to develop moderate-stretch knit block pattern for young women in Korea. The subjects were three women within the range of the ages from 18 to 24 showing the average body figures. In this study, 4 different patterns were drafted for the moderate stretch knitted fabrics, that were categorised into two different types. The first type of these was made up for kilted fabrics and the other was initially drafted for woven fabrics and altered for knitted materials afterward. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; 1. According to each sensory evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, knit block patterns A and D were the better than the rest of them. 2. Knit block patterns A and D with higher evaluation scores were drafted with body size measurements except the waist line, whereas patterns B and C with relatively lower scores were produced including the smaller ease amounts than the woven block pattern. 3. To see the results of the functional test based on the designed ten motions for this experiment, knit block patterns A and B were concluded as better than the rest of them. In addition, concerning the arm liking motions, pattern B was scored as the best among the developed patterns.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제17권5호
• /
• pp.838-843
• /
• 2015

In this study, a cotton knit was dyed with elm bark extract; subsequently, the dyed fabric was measured according to the types of mordants and the preprocessing cationizers used. Additionally, antibiosis against super bacteria was examined. The results follow. First, the color of the dyed cotton knit appeared reddish and yellowish for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants. When preprocessing with a cationizer was conducted, the dyeing properties were the best. Second. even when mordants were not used for dyeing, color fastness after washing, sweating, and rubbing was generally good Grade 4 and 5. Color fastness after exposure to sunlight was the best Grade 4 for fabric prepared with ferrous sulfate as the mordant. Third. as for antimicrobial properties, or resistance to super bacteria, the growth of bacteria was suppressed in a meaningful way for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants, compared to the control group fabric. The dyeing methods with the most powerful antimicrobial effects were dyeing after preprocessing with a cationizer and preparing fabric with copper sulfate as the mordant. The results stated above show that in case of dyeing with elm bark extract, preprocessing of the cotton knit with a cationizer and dying with copper mordant displayed high levels of antimicrobial properties that were useful for resisting super bacteria. Of these the dyeing properties were the best when preprocessing with a cationizer.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제12권2호
• /
• pp.131-138
• /
• 2010

The purposes of this study are for current manufacturing status of the formal knit slacks for the middle aged women. As for the methodology, five manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were subjected to the study, to examine the current manufacturing status of the knit slacks for the middle aged women, by conducting interviews and questionnaire with patterner and designer. The questionnaire items are 20 ones including general questions on manufacturing of the knit slacks, questions on materials used in manufacturing, and on sewing. The results are as followings : First, as for the manufacturing structure of the knit slacks manufacturer, all manufacturers directly manufactured knit slacks in their own factory, and the manufacturing was comprised of 10% in woven slacks and 90% in knit slacks. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in fabric knitting for the knit slacks, wool was used mostly for F/W, and acrylic or Saint yarn for S/S. As for the types of knit, Milano rib stitch and Half Milano rib stitch were used for wool and acrylic knitting, and plain stitch was used for Saint yarn. As for the gauge, 12G and 14G were used, whereas 7G, 12G was used for Saint yarn. Repair requests of the knit slacks were mostly on the length of the pants, such as shortening hip circumference and crotch length, or widening waist and hip area. The study shows that the size of knit slacks did not fit the body type of customers.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제14권1호
• /
• pp.111-121
• /
• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.