• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.904-912
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• 2003

This study for‘Head Image’, which is affected by individual Image, is via fashion collection to analyze formative feature, fashion emotion and meaning structure of emotion and to inquire into correlation. I will offer fundamental data, which is can use Image making from the state of thing. First, to make charm and personal image, if we consider Head image well, it will very effective by the reason that personality and charm operate as important factors in fashion sensibility of Head Image. Second, we can know Head Image has more strong influence the part of emotion than fashion sensibility by showing that the sense of emotion is higher than this point of view of fashion sensibility in Head Image. Third, As a result of the correlation of fashion sensibility and emotion in Head Image, personal Head Image is effective to attract public gaze by causing negative emotion, and attractive Head Image is effective to give pleasant feeling by causing positive emotion. Forth, Avant-garde, Punk, Kitsch Image were estimated as the most personal things and Romantic, Ethnic Image were estimated as the most attractive things of the type of Head Image. Natural Image was estimated as the most feminine thing, and Elegant Image was estimated as the most mature thing. Fifth, when we look into the different appraisals between experts and amateurs about fashion sensibility and emotion of Head Image, a selection of experts are used to peculiar and strong Head Image, so amateurs respond it more sensitively and highly evaluate.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.369-392
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• 1998

In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

• 복식
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• 제61권3호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2011

In the process of modernization from the traditional Korean Han-bok to today's modernized fashion. The Republic of Korea received the most influences form the United States among other western countries. The U. S. A. was the primary country who helped to release S. Korea from Japanese colonization in 1945, and provided the most economic and military aids after the Korean War in 1950. The purpose of this case study is to find out the traits of Americanization in modern Korean fashion through sociocultural evidences and reference pictures. The Americanization can be defined as the U. S. A. influencing cultures of other countries, and sometimes resulted in the substitution of a given culture with American culture. Americanization generally is a part of westernization. The analogous terms for Americanization, are Coca-colonization, McDonaldization, Starbuckslization, and Hollywoodization. The theories related to Americanization are theory of economic determination, global system theory, conspiracy theory, modernization theory, and theory of dependence. However, Americanization of Korea cannot be explained in one single theory, but only can be explained as a hybrid of two cultures. There also is a critical viewpoint of de-Americanization. Americanization of Korea were studied in three important chronicles, a period of modernization (1945-1950s), a period of industrialization & popularization(1960s-1970s), and a period of consumerization(1980s-present). The traits of Americanization in the process of modernizing Korean fashion, were found as simplicity, functionality, popularity(kitsch & mimicry), anti-traditional ethics(unchastity & skin revealing), and materialism(lavishness & trends).

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.13-31
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative style and aesthetic value of contemporary subcultural style with the understanding of characteristics of subcultural style in the sociocultural context. As for the research methodology, literary survey has been performed to study the concept and the history of subcultural styles from 1940s to 1980s. In addition, demonstrative studies on aesthetic images have been carried out through the analysis of pictures and photographs in order to categorize the subcultural styles since 1990s. In this study, subcultural styles since 1990s have been illustrated through the socio-cultural grounds. which are diversity of street culture, diffusion of moss culture or bubble-up phenomenon, pursuit of anti-social ideology among intellectual heads, club Cultures in the form of kitsch and pastiche and communal thinking as collective harmony. With the socio-cultural context examined above, subcultural styles in the contemporary fashion are categorized and deduced following aesthetic values ; Drag and Club style as the tendency of surrealists or artificial hedonists, Urban military style and Cyberpunks as pursuit of Bionic being, Sports casual style based upon, the pursuit of comfort and freedom, Vintage style and Retro dressing represented by the spirit of DIY (no It Yourself), Ecology style of New conservatives, and Mysticism style as the fusion of technology and shamanism (Technoshamanism).

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.327-338
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• 2002

The analysis and examination of this study are focussed on the external deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier. The external deconstruction is a way of expression faithful to the literal meaning of 'deconstruction' and is the applied case of exposure, destruction, poverty, and decomposition as they are. The method and scope of this study are from 1980's to present, and the followings are the results of this examination focussed on the various literature of philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and foreign fashion journals. The exposure phenomena through the deconstruction expressed repeatedly in the works of Gaultier deconstructed the fixed idea of 'the inner wear should be worn inside the outer wear' and at the same time denied the dichotomical interpretation of the exposure and suppression, the traditional beauty and decadent beauty, the chastity and unchastity, the asceticism and sexuality, and obscured the notion of the inner wear and outer wear. The destructive deconstruction expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier introduced the elements such as hippy, punk, and kitsch, slashed before making dresses, crumpled unseemly like wastepaper, or made dresses with textures like paper scraps, and through destroying textures, yielded shock effects and tension. Poverty, through borrowing from the outwardly poor-looking elements of design, i.e. the patch work, decolor, dye, fading, fringing, incompletion, and handmadeness, liberated dresses and their ornaments from the outside. The traditional dresses were dresses having certain forms with formative beauty, but Gaultier disassembled dresses and raised questions about the logic of dresses themselves.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.173-189
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• 1995

purpose of this study is to analyze the various phenomenon related to the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress, which is impossible to describe with only functionalism, practically and objectivism of aesthetic value for dress based on Karl Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of ugliness from the middle of 1980's to present. In other words, the ugliness had been selected and erected as the opposite meaning of beauty to head toward ultimate beauty, and clarify that ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty and ugliness. First, the ugliness and Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of Ugliness had been examined theoretically in the aspect of the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress and aesthetic category. The relationship between the artistic styles related to ugliness, such as Avant-garde, Primitivism of Expressionism, Grotesque, Decadence, Kitsch, Pastich\ulcornerParody, from the late 19c to present, and the dresses representing the ugly look such as Cyber Punk, Exotic look, Detester, Grunge, Hip-hop, etc, of 1990's had been studied by using photographic materials. In this study, the basic concepts of ugliness, including formlessness, inaccuracy and deformation, formed by K. Rosencrantz had been used to reveal the interaction between modem costume and the theory of ugliness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.195-203
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• 2018

Online game digital hanbok has an aesthetic value in a digital culture and is useful for developing a digital hanbok design for online games as well as other industries. This thesis analyzes its attire and design composition elements to design a 3D digital hanbok by utilizing its formative characteristics. The literature review defines them as transmutability, virtuality, fictionality, reality and playfulness based on the characteristics of digital media, late digital generation and online games. We analyzed 471 images from 50 online games. Sonmaep was used for making 3D digital hanboks. Its attire was grouped into jogori pants, jogori chima, po and armor. Its design composition elements were classified as pleat, layering mu or hemline, mu sub gyeopmagi mitbadae, vent, git dongjung and decoration elements. The results feature 8 digital hanbok designs. Reality designs are replicas of jogori daegugo for men and po for women in the period of the Three States. Virtuality designs are slightly changed shapes of yoseoncheolrik for men and white jogori yellow chima for women in the Koryo Dynasty. Fictionality designs are casual fusion armors for men and women as a hyperbolic form. Playfulness designs are doll costumes for men and jogori chima for women as a kitsch and childish style. The concept of online game digital hanbok escapes from conceptual limitations of traditional hanboks. This result can be used for designing digital hanbok contents in various industrial parts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.692-704
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• 2020

The aim of this study is to select MLMA and Noen Eubanks as representatives of Gen Z's unique subculture 'E-girl' and 'E-boy' to analyze fashion images and determine their meaning through the perspective of persona. To conduct this study, a literature review and case studies were combined and fashion images of E-girl and E-boy appearing on social media were analyzed to identify the personas they expressed. A case study of MLMA and Noen Eubanks' Instagram and TikTok account posts showed that grotesque, kitsch, and gender-related images stand out. The digital personae demonstrated by E-girl and E-boy fashion images were demonstrated to be a strange persona that reject perfect beauty and a playful persona escaping from reality and anxiety. Lastly persona of individual identity was shown to be formed. This study provides a basis for understanding and interpreting Gen Z's culture and aesthetics that will lead to future trends. Based on this study, I hope that various studies on E-girl and E-boy apparel will be conducted, and that by understanding the importance of E-girl and E-boy culture for Gen Z (which is paying attention to fashion trends), this can be used as a marketing strategy to consider their characteristics, with data used to inform design development.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.