• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.319-335
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• 2002

Nongae was the official Kinye(관기) who had exhisted, her portrait was enshrined at an ancestral tablet hall beside Choksukloo. This portrait of Nongae was a work of a painter, Un Ho-Kim. In any case, a study on the costume of the portrait of one person must be taken the costume of the period. This study investigates the character of clothing style in King Sunjo 26(1593) and in her present portrait. And so, her portrait who was enshrined at the place didn't agree with it's clothing in King Sunjo 26(1593) The results of this study are as follows : The portrait of Nongae took the costume style of the beginning of about 1910. and so this style was different from the style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593). The style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593) : Jacket : It's jacket was long(near hip) and broad, it's sleeve length was long, it's form was a straight line. Skirt : It's skirt was very long. It's silhouette was formed a soft line The costume of the figure in this picture in wrong from historical point of view. And so, the costume of Nongae in the portrait must adjust it in the clothing style of about 1593.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.51-61
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• 2016

'Eojin', king's portraits, had been produced during the Joseon dynasty. The portrait of King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon dynasty, remain at National Palace Museum of Korea and Gyeonggijeon portrait hall in Jeonju and Junwonjeon portrait hall in North Korea that has been recorded in original glass plate photo in 1911. Many replica of Eojin have been made since it is important to preserve and protect original one. In this study, the portrait of King Taejo, which is possessed by National Palace Museum of Korea, was researched for making replication standard version of the original form. It was focused on derivations of each artefacts and drawing lines those had been described on the picture including comparison among three portraits of King Taejo. Producing the replication standard version of King Taejo's portrait, the digital restoration techniques by the method of partition area scanning was applied. Accurate and precise detail result that is taken by digital imaging technique gives additional information regarding the relations among three portraits of King Taejo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1409-1417
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• 2011

This study examines King Louis XVI costumes and his portraits according to symbolic meanings. This study analysis of costumes comes from portraits related various domestic and overseas literature, preliminary study papers, and web sites. Omnipotence, activity, nobility, openness and benevolence were distinguished in the symbolic meaning expressed in the portraits of King Louis XVI. Louis XVI in a portrait was drawn with god or expressed as a martyr and symbolically showed the omnipotence of god. Louis XVI was symbolized as almighty god by maximizing the authority and dignity of the king through the hands of justice that were used as a background or portrait accessory and a costume with the symbol of House of Bourbon. Kings of many generations were expressed as authoritative through portraits. However, Louis XVI showed a proletarian aspect in ordering portraits to reflect the daily working image of communicating with citizens. Active images such as the king riding a horse or administering the state affairs were emphasized in a political and military perspective; in addition, the benevolence of the king was symbolically presented through a family portrait. This symbolically signified that the king is a warm-hearted person who passionately takes care of state affairs and loves the people through a noble element coming from pastel colors and attributes of red colors. Historically, the political incompetence and indifference of kings was fragmentally emphasized; however, these portraits considered the king as one who tried to fulfill duties as the true king with a great interest in politics and the people.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.14 no.1 s.41
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• pp.57-70
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• 2005

This study is the consideration about Hwaryeong-Jeon that enshrines Joseon Dynasty 22nd king Jeongjo's portrait of a king. Suwon's Hwaryeong-Jeon that accompanied a portrait and performed ritual ceremonies had several formalities and ceremonies which are connected with rituals. therefore, we will try to examine what relation between arrangement of building and plane composition had. And through this, it is thing to observe construction special quality that Hwaryeong-Jeon has. Joseon Dynasty's young-jeon (a hall where the royal portraits are kept) is retaining each other different state according to construction age every moment. Hwaryeong-Jeon among Joseon Dynasty's a hall of royal portraits is the construction form which is equiped well and is known for keeping the form well from the foundation to now And this building is evaluated as the standard form of early part young-jeon building of 19th century. Especially, Hwaryeong-Jeon shows the typical ritual equipments late Joseon Dynasty and at the same time has all kinds of characteristics which only we can find at Hwaryeong-Jeon. Namely, Hwaryeong-Jeon is the building which brings the design concept of the hall of royal portraits to completion as the building which enshrines single portrait of a king. After all, Hwaryeong-Jeon is evaluated as the building which can pass excellent form of late Joseon Dynasty, the hall of royal portraits building just as it is. Therefore, as I study its own style, I expect Joseon Dynasty's mind that enshrined the portrait of a king elaborately to be revealed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.135-144
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• 2010

This study is on the reproduction of King Sejong's costume presented in at the National Classical Music Institute in the late of 2008. The performance was presented focusing on the idea of ceremonial music of hoi-ryeyeon produced in the reign of king(1433). The reproduction of King Sejong's costume was undertaken to keep pace with the times and to pay due regard to the performance costume. The implications of the study are as follows. King Sejong's Hoi-ryeyeon ceremonial costume is a royal robe(gonryongpo), the best one of king's clothing. The basic type of gonryongpo is that of fastening four yongbos to danryoung. The type of gonryongpo is, therefore, made with reference to unearthed articles and portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The yongbo is larger one than the late period of the Yi dynasty in the light of portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The supporting type of gonryongpo is that of gonryongpo, dapho, and chulrik, king's dress granted by Myeong dynasty. In the late period jikryeong was used as supporting dress and fixed to be lining and included jikryeong. Therefore the order of supporting dress was jikryeong, dapho and chulrik and was reproduced with reference to unearthed articles in the early Yi dynasty, as did the small piece of crown, belt and shoes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.74-84
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine symbolic meanings of costumes shown by portraits of King Henry VIII and use them as basic data for research on costume design of historical dramas in the Renaissance or on King Henry VIII's costume. This study attempted analysis of symbolic meanings from the paintings-related various domestic and overseas literatures, preliminary study paper, and web sites etc. The symbolic meanings expressed by the portraits of King Henry VIII are characterized by authority, innovation performance, authority, masculinity, innovation performance, artistic taste, intellectual charm, intrepidity and benevolence. Especially, the portraits of King Henry VIII symbolized his masculine beauty by emphasizing sexual attractiveness that cannot be seen in portraits of other kings through broad shoulders and exaggerated codpiece which are the zenith of masculine beauty during the Renaissance age. Through the image of King Henry VIII which was painted with jester or barber surgeons, his characteristic and open mind thinking highly of the technique and human life was also expressed. In the portrait of King Henry VIII, various images set in knights' tournament, playing a musical instrument and reading a book as well as the image of wearing a parliament costume were shown, highlighting King Henry VIII as a person good at both literary and martial arts with open and innovative personality than any other kings in history.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.142-163
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• 2020

In the early Joseon dynasty, the meritorious vassals' portrait of Jeokgae (1467, 1476), Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507), and Wisa (1545) were defined as the 2^nd period of the official uniform, in which the acheongsaek HeukDanryung appeared and settled. A total of seven portraits were analyzed, including three portraits of Jeokgae (1467, portrait production 1476) Son-so, Oh Jachi, and Jang Malson, and four portraits of Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507) Yoo Sunjung, Hong Gyeongju, Lee Woo, and Yoo Hong. In the portrait of the Jeokgae wearing a Yebok HeukDanryung, in the case of the Samo, the height of the Samo, which had been raised at the beginning of King Seongjong, was lowered again, and the parietal part was rounded. The pattern was not expressed on the wide oval side wings of the Samo. In addition, the pattern was not expressed on the acheongsaek Danryung, Dapho, and Cheolrik. The colors of Dapho and Cheolrik were unified in green and red, respectively. The Mu of Danryung and Dapho was expressed as 'in and out wrinkled Mu', and the shoes were expressed in Baekhwa. Another feature is that the Jeokgae's portrait is expressed not as the Pumgye at the time of appointment, but as the Pumgye of the portrait production time. In the portrait of the Jeongguk·Jeongnan wearing a Sibok HeukDanryung, the height of the Samo lowered from the Jeokgae was maintained, while the parietal part was slightly narrowed and bent forward. The side wings of the Samo were expressed as an oval with a uniform width, and still the pattern was not expressed on the side wings. The pattern was not expressed in the costume of the Danghagwan's portrait, but the cloud pattern began to be expressed in the costume of the Dangsanggwan's portrait. And the Danryung was expressed as single Danryung without lining. In the portrait of Dangsang, the red Dapho and green Cheolrik were expressed, and in the portrait of Dangha, the green Dapho and blue Cheolrik were expressed. Therefore, it was found that the color of the undergarment was distinguished according to the Dangsang and Dangha. In Danryung and Dapho, the 'in and out wrinkled Mu' were maintained. The shoes were expressed in Heukhwa, and the rank badge and rank belt reflect the Pumgye at the time of the appointment. On the other hand, the portrait of Wisa could not be confirmed, but through the recording painting of the reign of King Meongjong, it was found that it was similar to the Danryung system of the reign of King Jungjong. Through the 2^nd period of the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeokgae, it was confirmed that the HeukDanryung outfit began to be used as the official uniform of the meritorious vassal's portrait, and that the Pumgye of the portrait production time was reflected in the portrait. After the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeongguk, the pattern began to be expressed in the costumes, and in particular, it was possible to distinguish Dasang and Dangha by the presence or absence of the HeukDanryung's pattern. In addition, it was confirmed that the expressed aspect of the official uniform was consistent with the practices and regulations at the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.801-814
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• 2016

This study uses the "Sejong chronicles" ritual manual to investigate the movements and roles of provincial governors during the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait, the official uniforms of the provincial governors in their roles, and the characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the early Joseon Dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. Provincial governors who participated in the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait were governors 'en route' and governors 'in destination'. The movements of the governor 'en route' followed the provincial borders, official residences, and neighboring provincial borders. The movements of the governor 'in destination' followed the provincial borders, the official residence, and jinjeon. The roles of the governors included the welcoming ceremony, the bow-down ceremony, the front guard, and the farewell ceremony. The governors 'en route' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and a Sibok in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The governor 'in destination' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and Jobok (or Sibok if Jobok was not available) in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the Joseon Dynasty were as follows. First, the governors wore different uniforms depending on the importance of the rituals in the early Joseon Dynasty. Second, the names of official uniforms Sang-bok and Si-bok were used interchangeably in the early Joseon Dynasty. Third, local governors were allowed to wear Sangbok (or Sibok) instead of Jobok.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.13 no.1 s.37
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• pp.53-69
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• 2004

Located in a rear garden of Changdeok Palace, Yeonkyeong-Dang is valued as the most characteristic building of the houses of aristocrats of the later Joseon Dynasty. The time of the construction has been much debated, however, it is perceived through this research that the construction was completed in September 1827(the 27nd year of king Sunjo's reign). The shape of the buildings during this period resembles a letter ㄷ as shown in the picture of Dong-Kweol. We previously described that the purpose of Yeonkyeong-Dang was to carry the portrait of king Yikjong while keeping the shape of building when it was first established until the 8th year of king Heonjong (1842). In 1865 (the 2nd year of king Gojong's reign), it was reconstructed with very different outlook which has remained the present shape. The characteristic features of the residences of aristocrats were reflected in newly reconstructed Yeonkyeong-Dang. The structure was largely divided into two quarters that occupied by male and female residents respectively. The two quarters were bordered by fences and added with a study and a pavilion. The reconstruction was conducted by king Gojong's father, Daewon- Goon and its purpose was to prepare a separate house for the king and queen before the kings wedding that was about to come. During the 19th century, building an imitation of houses of aristocrats became quite a trend in the palace. Built in 1847, Nakseon-Jae was precedented and followed by Yeonkyeong-Dang. Also later Geoncheong Palace was built in Kyeongbok Palace in 1873. All of the three buildings imitated houses of aristocrats. Divided residences of male and female sections and splendid decorations were common features. Nakseon-Jae was the smallest in the structure of spaces, ornamentation of details and its sizes, Yeonkyeong-Dang was the second and Geoncheong Palace was the most distinguished building. The constructions of these three buildings created an innovative architectural wave in the 19th century palace. Yeonkyeong-Dang was the building that mediated the new flow of architectural structure in the 19th century palace.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Library and Information Science
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• v.56 no.3
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• pp.213-239
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• 2022

This study attempted to organize the transition process of Royal Library (Gyujanggak) in chronological order, analyze the flow and find diachronic meaning during Gojong period, the most confused time at home and abroad prior to modernization. For this, first, the total status quo of King Gojong's library and book storage which played role of Royal Library and a personal library in Gojong period was investigated. Second, based on the current status of the investigation, the transition process from the Royal library in the early days of King Gojong to the Imperial library during the Korean Empire and its meaning were considered with the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, Seungjeongwon diary, various catalogs and historical records. Third, the changes of space-time and aspect of Royal library through the palace of Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, and Gyeongungung were examined to draw a sociopolitical meaning by schematizing each palace. As a result, first, King Gojong conjugated Kyujanggak as a device to strengthen the royal authority and accommodate Western culture in the process of modernization. Second, the crucial spaces containing the political orientation of King Gojong, such as the present king's portrait storage place, library(book storage), and office, formed a separate hall across Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Gyeongungung, and gradually changed into a Western architectural style.