• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.16-27
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of chemical finishes on performance characteristics of microfiber blend fabrics. A 60% polyester microfiber /40% cotton blend woven fabric was finished by ten chemicals: three silicone softeners, one fluorochemical, and their mixtures. Performance characteristics examined were fabric hand attributes. Fabric hand was evaluated by instrumental measures using Kawabata KES-F system instruments. Silicone-only finishes did not change the bending properties significantly from those of the control fabric. The fluorochemical-only finish made the fabric stiffer and crisper. When the two chemicals were mixed they tended to offset this adversary effect. Most of the chemical finishes made the surface finer and smoother. Fluorochemical-only finish improved fabric strength. Likewise, dimethylpolysiloxane silicone improved fabric strength. Amino-functional hydrophilic and diamino-functional silicone softeners, on the other hand, reduced fabric strength. However, when mixed with the fluorochemical, the adversary effect was diminished.

• Korean Journal of Ecology and Environment
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• v.56 no.2
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• pp.161-171
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• 2023

The medium-large cladoceran species Simocephalus spp. predominantly occur in habitats with developed aquatic vegetation. Accordingly, due to Simocephalus' high contribution to zooplankton community biomass in the lake's littoral zone and wetland habitats, estimating their biomass is important to understand the matter cycling based on biological interactions within the aquatic food web. In this study, we reviewed the length-weight regression equations used previously to estimate Simocephalus biomass, directly measured S. serrulatus' body specification (length, width and area) and their biomass(dry weight) using instruments such as a microscopic digital camera and a microscale, and performed regression analysis between each other. When S. serrulatus biomass was estimated using the equation (Kawabata and Urabe, 1998) presented in 『Biomonitoring Survey and Assessment Manual』, Korea, errors between estimates and measures were relatively large compared to the S. serrulatus species-specific biomass estimate equation developed by Lemke and Benke (2003). In addition, both equations showed not only increasing trends in error (estimate-measure) with increasing S. serrulatus' body length, but also in error variance among similar-sized individuals. The results of regression analysis with dry weight by body specifications indicated that the most appropriate equation for estimating the biomass of S. serrulatus was derived from the width-dry weight exponential regression equation (R²=0.9555). The review and development study of such species-specific biomass estimation equations for zooplankton can be used as a tool to understand their role and function in aquatic ecosystem food webs.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.360-370
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• 2012

This study investigates the interaction effects of mechanical property-based clusters and colorimetric tones on the subjective touch and color sensation of fabrics when sight and touch were simultaneously provided to humans. Each of six different silk fabrics was colored by digital textile printing to have three tones (pale, vivid, and grayish) and its mechanical properties were measured by a Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Touch and color sensation were identified to be primarily influenced by mechanical property-based clusters and tones, respectively. In touch, 'smooth', 'warm', 'heavy', and 'soft' were found to be affected by interactive effects of mechanical property-based clusters and colorimetric tone so that the pale tone tended to make differences smaller among the clusters for the touch sensation, while the grayish tone seemed to contribute to larger differences of 'heavy'. However, an interaction effect was not found in the color sensation with touch even though the color sensation was also influenced by mechanical property-based clusters.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.445-451
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• 2005

Up to the present, fabric finishing methods have been mainly employed for the application of chitosan. However, the coated chitosan acid salt is prone to be detached from the fabric during the laundering process. In order to improve the wash fastness, chitosan treated fabrics are being subjected to thermal curing. In this study, chemical crosslinking reaction by epichlorohydrin was introduced to improve the problem of the thermal curing. An improvement of the wash fastness is expected since the coated chitosan component on the fabric become insoluble by the introduction of the crosslinking. The demerit of the single chitosan treatment (inferior handle due to the excessive stiffness, etc.) was supplemented by the application of chitosan-polyurethane mixture solution. The mixture ratios were adjusted to 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, 1 : 1, and 1 : 2 for the chitosan/PU mixture. Physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System(KES), and hand values were calculated accordingly based on the translational formulas.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.439-444
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• 2005

This article describes the change in the hand value of chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH), 2% aqueous acetic acid and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide. It proposed that the crosslinking and mercerizing were performed with the mixture of four different molecular weight chitosan and ECH in a single step. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle roller, pre-dried at $130^{\circ}C$, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution and finally washed and dried. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were measured on concentration and molecular weight by Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. As the concentration of chitosan solution increased, LT, WT, B, 2HB were increased. WT, B, 2HB, MIU, SMD, $T_0$, $T_m$ were decreased when chitosan was depolymerized. On the other hand, RT was increased when chitosan was depolymerized.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.120-126
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• 1991

An expanded scheme of a direct numerical solution method for solving the Navier-Stokes equation considering the modified boundary conditions for gas lubrication with ultra low clearance at high .LAMBDA. region is presented. Many examples are calculated by this scheme and their results are compared to the previous solutions using P$^{2}$H$^{[-992]}$ . This scheme has the advantages of fast calculation time and stable convergence in high .LAMBDA. region, and gives very good results in the case of fluid film thickness discontinuity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.828-837
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and the hand of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics compared to linen. The mixed fabrics were made by rayon, polyester and modal fiber as warp yarn, and ramie, flax, rayon/flax and cotton/flax as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength/extension, water absorbancy and warmth retention were measured for test fabrics. The mechanical properties were measured by Kawabata system, and the hand value was calculated by previously developed equation. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The crease resistance and drape properties of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics were improved compared to those of linen. The tensile strength of polyester/bast fiber mixed fabrics increased compared to those of linen, but rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mired fabrics decreased. The extension of all mixed fabrics was increased compared to that of linen. The rayon/ramie and modal/ramie mixed fabrics showed lower warmth retention than linen. The mixed fabrics used rayon and modal as warp yarn showed higher water absorbancy than linen. The Koshi and Hari hand value of all mixed fabrics showed lower than those of linen. Fukurami hand value showed little difference between mixed fabrics and linen. Shari, Kishimi, and Shinayakasa hand value of rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mixed fabrics showed higher than those of linen.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1593-1602
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• 2001

본 연구는 스포츠 아우터웨어용 나일론 직물의 소리에 대한 주관적 감각과 이에 관련된 객관적 측정치를 규명하기 위하여, 서로 다른 8종의 나일론 직물의 소리의 스펙트럼 파형을 고찰하였으며, 소리 파라미터로 총음압(level pressure of total sound, LPT),세 가지 AR (autoregressive)계수, Zwicker의 심리음향학적 모델에 따른 크기(Z)와 날카로움(Z)를 계산하였고, Kawabata Evaluation System(KES)으로 직물의 물리적 성질을 측정하였다. 주관적 감각 평가를 위하여 피험자에게 녹음된 각 직물소리를 들려주어 7개 소리 감각 (부드러움, 시끄러움, 날카로움, 맑음, 거 침, 높음, 유쾌함)을 의미분별척도로 답하게 한 후, 단계적 선형 회귀식을 이용하여 직물 소리의 주관적 감각에 대한 예측 모델을 제시하였다. 울트라스웨이드를 제외한 태피터 나일론 직물들은 스펙트럼 파형 에서 다른 조성 섬유의 직물들보다 음압 값이 높고, 총음압이 60dB 안팎의 값을 보여, 착용자에게 불쾌감을 줄 것으로 예상되었으며, 주관적 감각 평가에서도 소리의 부드러움과 맑음, 유쾌함에서 음의 점수를, 시끄러움과 날카로움, 거침, 높음에서 양의 점수를 얻었다. 주관적 감각의 예측모델에서 총음압은 시끄러움과 거침에 정적 영향을, 유쾌함에 부적 영향을 미쳐서 나일론 직물 소리의 총음압이 50dB 이하일 때 주관적으로 유쾌하게 느껴지는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.