• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.10
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• pp.1629-1639
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to research the similarity and difference of color application in the culture of Korea and Japan. The subject of this research is the costume color of Changgeuk and Kabuki. This survey analyzes Munsell's 3 attributes(Hue, Value, Chroma), tone, and 3D color analysis by extracted color data. And representative color according to Obangsaek is proposed. The results of this study are as follows: 1. High chroma red in Kabuki costume is more used as symbolic color(passion and luxurious) in order to show character's personality than that in Changguek costume. 2. Low chroma YR color(no-dyeing color) in Changgeuk costume much more used because of Korean white robe preference and eco-friendly thinking. But high chroma yellow is restrictive color for symbolic color of emperor in Korea and Japan. 3. Blue is most frequently used in both costumes because blue is encouraging color by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine. 4. White in Korean Changguek costume is more used for white robe preference thinking, but black in Kabuki costume is much more used for symbol of power in Japan. The similarity of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use much Obangsaek, less Ogansaek by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine, but the difference of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use color differently according to preference thinking system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.14-27
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the aesthetic characteristics of Brecht's V-Effekt is visually expressed of the costume in the Traditional Play of Korea, China and Japan. The method and the contents of the study were to refer to the antecedent studies and the related documents to peruse the characteristics of the traditional plays of the East and West, the origin and the concept of Brecht's Verfremdung and considered the relation of Brecht's V-Effekt and the Oriental plays, and then the researcher derived the aesthetic properties of Brecht's V-Effekt. This study analyzed how those qualities of the aesthetic characteristics on the V-Effekt are manifested on the stage costumes of Korean mask, Beijing opera and Kabuki. The aesthetic qualities of Brecht's V-Effekt are classified into symbolism, grotesque disposition, character of sing and dance, comicality. The symbolism in the traditional play costumes of the three nations is shown in the colors of the masks in Korean and the tone of the colors on the costumes and the make-up in Beijing opera and Kabuki. While the properties of bizarrerie and deformation coexist in masque and Beijing opera costumes in terms of grotesque disposition, Kabuki strongly displays bizarre grotesquerie. The character of sing and dance is visually expressed through the transformation of sleeves on the three nation's traditional play costumes; Masque on the Hansam and Chengsam, Beijing opera on the Water sleeves and Kabuki on Hurisode. The comic aspection is expressed in a humorous and comical way through the distortion and transformation of forms in Masque and Beijing opera but it cannot be seen in Kabuki costume. The study as above will form the aesthetic properties of the Oriental traditional play costumes and also it will contribute to establishing the identity of Korean mask costumes.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.31
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• pp.35-64
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• 2013

This thesis seeks to compare China's Jing-ju and Japan's Kabuki for their common aspects and differences and examine how they are performed on the stage. Jing-ju is often called as Beijing Opera to refer to a musical play completed during the mid-Ching era and developed around Beijing. Jing-ju is composite arts of music, dance and play which are remarkable in its strict patterns in move along with luxurious costume and heavy make-up. Kabuki which was developed during the Edo-period, is expressional arts also structured with music, dance and play coupled with extravagant costume as well as even more strictly controlled move and emphasis on the beauty of form. The two plays seem very similar to each other in their time setting to gain popularity or features of play. It may look obvious that Jing-ju which had developed earlier than Kabuki, affected the latter's formation. However, general social practices or cultural trends in China and Japan at the time of their development also influenced literature and arts thus affecting play contents and performance expressions. Although the two plays have similar stage structure, they developed in different ways with detailed differences and actors' performance on the stage, way of using a stage and other ways of directing play are largely distinctive from each other. If a play's primary goal is to gain recognition of audience and draw their positive response, the relationship between play and stage becomes essential. With this understanding, this thesis aims to identify where such similarities and differences between the two plays are from by comparing historical background, stage structural development and directing manner development at a basic level.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1415-1428
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• 2010

Modernity in costumes is analyzed as the preference of change and novelty, the formation of the masses, and the aspect of function, which is transplanted by western modernization. However, it is seem that the factor of modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. This study examines the Proto-modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. First, this study examines the term 'Imamekashiki' which means the present time. Because of the recognition of every present time arises from the recognition and the preference of change and novelty. In the pre-modem Era, this study examines the masses formed by the publication and the play, Kabuki. This study provides an alternative answer to understanding what is to 'wear clothes' for Japanese people.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.117-124
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• 2016

This study considered about freaky design of men's wear in Edo period, and also compared and analyzed it to modern men's wear. The purpose for this study is to contribute to the development of modern men's wear by this analysis. Edo period was a male dominated period, so culture of showing off their powers appeared in their fashion as symbols of skulls, monsters or tattoos. Kabuki culture used this kind of social background and it incited the actors roles and clothes to become more famous. 2016-17 F/W, 2017 S/S modern men's wear expressed more various freaky design, so it was able to be classed as shapes, pattern, materials and total coordination. Edo period just expressed freaky design by symbols however, freaky design in modern men's wear is showing more various expressions. This study can conclude that freaky design usually shows weird, peculiar, scary and dampish images. Also freaky design showed in the persuit of various choices including parade of power in modern men's wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.109-127
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• 2002

As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories. together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing. this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing. make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, "KyungKeuk" and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, "Kabuki" Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume. Hanbok, as appeared in "Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) Painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.Japan, and Korea in Asia.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.143-151
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• 2009

Ukiyo-e is the representative genre-painting of Japan, dominant during the 17th century Edo-Period (1503-1867). Ukiyo-e is mainly focused on expressing the lives of geishas, sumo wrestlers, and kabuki characters, who were the center of the Japanese amusement culture, and gained popular acceptance in Europe when it was first introduced in the late 19th century in the form of Japonism, having significant influence and impact on the impressionist artists of the time and on the design of western cloths. In this papers, we will be primarily conducting a historical study on the development of the Ukiyo-e, a representative genre-painting of Japan, and conduct a in-depth analysis of pattern expressed in the Kosode of women, represented through various different works of art. In order to conduct a thorough analysis of pattern expressed in Ukiyo-e, we collected over 255 pieces of materials from existing foreign paintings as well as museums in the National Museum of Tokyo, Edo Museum, and the Harajuku Museum of Ukiyo-e. This papers seeks to analyze and classify patterns expressed in the works of Ukiyo-e and research the characteristics express in the pattern to contribute to the development of fabrics in the modern fashion design industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.72-92
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review relationship between various expression method in modern make-up and the tendency of Neo-Avantgarde. In this paper, the author classified the distinctive characters in Neo-Avantagarde with Historicism, Decadence, Humor, and Inhumanism and explained innovation and creatio which is manifested in the late 1990\`s make-up by studying Neo-Avantgarde tendency expressed in modern make-up. The results are as follows. 1. The Historicism in modern make-up is expressed in Japanese Kabuki Make-up, Chinese Pecking Opera make-up, and Primitive mask Make-up in Africa. 2. The Decadence is manifested in Tattoo make-up which is expressing fetishism and fin-de-냗칟 image, and Snobism Make-up which is expressing selg-ostentation and eroticism with artificial nail and eyelash. 3. The humor appears to the Character Make-up copying the characters in doll plays, animation and juvenile story. In addition it is showed in Kitsch Make-up, which has vulagr, rustic and childish image by wearing so diffusive and cheap ornaments. 4. The Inhumanism is appeared in Graphic Make-up which is in the pursuit of the visual happiness. It includes simple geometrical type, drawing and coloring. It is also showed in Vampire Make-up, which means the make-up style mading horro, hizarrerie, and mistery by primary color(black and red) make-up. As the above, Neo-Avantgarde can account for the diversity and pluralism of contemporary make-up.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.18-31
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• 2016

In response to increasing preference for tattoos during the 2000s, the demand for Japanesestyle tattoo fashion increased. Ukiyoe, the prototype of Japanese tattoo popular in the Edo period has been preserved traditional expression techniques to the present, It is characterized by the following: first, the tattoos share literary lyricism through plays borrowed from the classics. second, it displays harmony and equivocal expression of heterogeneous elements samurai and kabuki mono. third, humorous images are expressed in picture-in-picture form. And fourth, presence of fixed characters based on the publication culture. Tattoo fashion is characterized by the following: First, eclectic fashion based on pastiche; second, characters emphasizing fun and comicality; third, the adoption of tattoo models for establishing brand images; and fourth, Cultural association for the new composition of culture consumption. Pastiche, harmony of heterogeneous elements, fun and comicality, and fixed characters were found to be common between tattoo ukiyoe and tattoo fashion. That is, it attempted to meet the sensitive consumers' needs to keep up with the trends by adopting tattoo incorporated into the subculture of neo pop. This shows clearly the characteristics of fashion, which creates new trends through interacting with the contemporary culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.57-76
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• 2001

This study was intended to make a comparative analysis of the plastic features of Korean and Japanese dragon patterns found in the process of recreating traditions in comtemporary fashion based on the investigation into the style of expression in relation to the origin, formative evolution, symbolism and traditional costume of the dragon. The form of the dragon has evolved with some similarity and peculiarity between both countries and been changed into many kinds and diverse forms such as the humorous dragon pattern of the Yi Dynasty and the simplified and designed dragon pattern symbolizing the Japanese family crest and the like, Its symbolism has lasted in terms of the sacrificial object, royal power, good omen, Buddhist guardian and the like. There is a difference in the aesthetic sense due to the different traditions and cultural background between Korea and Japan, and the dragon pattern found in the process of recreating the tradition in comtemporary fashion manifested itself as the peculiar aspect. An attempt was made to make a comparative analysis of the dragon pattern found in comtemporary fashion between Korea and Japan. The following results were obtained: First, the commonality between both countries was to make a contemporary expression of the dragon pattern, which was expressed in a realistic form because of a traditionally inherent strong image of the dragon. On the other hand, the designed dragon pattern rarely found expression. It can be said that carefully treating the dragon pattern is attributed to the Oriental thinking like this. Second, Korean people have arranged one or more simplified dragon patterns taking on a form of the coiling dragon in the composition of the scattered point and made a comtemporary expression of them by the contrast of black and white shading in Korea. And the humorous form of the dragon pattern manifested itself in the Yi Dynasty. On the other hand, the case of printing the dragon pattern in the black dragon sword of all over the Kabuki costume in a pictorial composition has frequently appeared in Japan. And Japanese people have expressed its lightness and briskness rather than the dignity and strength that the dragon pattern gives with the use of strong color tones and new materials.