• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.72-92
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review relationship between various expression method in modern make-up and the tendency of Neo-Avantgarde. In this paper, the author classified the distinctive characters in Neo-Avantagarde with Historicism, Decadence, Humor, and Inhumanism and explained innovation and creatio which is manifested in the late 1990\`s make-up by studying Neo-Avantgarde tendency expressed in modern make-up. The results are as follows. 1. The Historicism in modern make-up is expressed in Japanese Kabuki Make-up, Chinese Pecking Opera make-up, and Primitive mask Make-up in Africa. 2. The Decadence is manifested in Tattoo make-up which is expressing fetishism and fin-de-냗칟 image, and Snobism Make-up which is expressing selg-ostentation and eroticism with artificial nail and eyelash. 3. The humor appears to the Character Make-up copying the characters in doll plays, animation and juvenile story. In addition it is showed in Kitsch Make-up, which has vulagr, rustic and childish image by wearing so diffusive and cheap ornaments. 4. The Inhumanism is appeared in Graphic Make-up which is in the pursuit of the visual happiness. It includes simple geometrical type, drawing and coloring. It is also showed in Vampire Make-up, which means the make-up style mading horro, hizarrerie, and mistery by primary color(black and red) make-up. As the above, Neo-Avantgarde can account for the diversity and pluralism of contemporary make-up.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.109-127
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• 2002

As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories. together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing. this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing. make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, "KyungKeuk" and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, "Kabuki" Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume. Hanbok, as appeared in "Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) Painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.Japan, and Korea in Asia.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.18-31
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• 2016

In response to increasing preference for tattoos during the 2000s, the demand for Japanesestyle tattoo fashion increased. Ukiyoe, the prototype of Japanese tattoo popular in the Edo period has been preserved traditional expression techniques to the present, It is characterized by the following: first, the tattoos share literary lyricism through plays borrowed from the classics. second, it displays harmony and equivocal expression of heterogeneous elements samurai and kabuki mono. third, humorous images are expressed in picture-in-picture form. And fourth, presence of fixed characters based on the publication culture. Tattoo fashion is characterized by the following: First, eclectic fashion based on pastiche; second, characters emphasizing fun and comicality; third, the adoption of tattoo models for establishing brand images; and fourth, Cultural association for the new composition of culture consumption. Pastiche, harmony of heterogeneous elements, fun and comicality, and fixed characters were found to be common between tattoo ukiyoe and tattoo fashion. That is, it attempted to meet the sensitive consumers' needs to keep up with the trends by adopting tattoo incorporated into the subculture of neo pop. This shows clearly the characteristics of fashion, which creates new trends through interacting with the contemporary culture.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2016

Japan has several unique traditional colors. The traditional colors of Japan include a collection of colors used in traditional Japanese literature, textiles such as the kimono, and other Japanese arts. Japanese color system has a long history, leading to some consistencies in color and naming. During the Edo period(1603~1867), the unique color sense of 'iki' produced many color names that are often related to mouse(nezumi) and tea(cha), and fashion color originated as kabuki actors. As for colors named after animals, the most popular appears to be the mouse, which is used to express grey tones. Recently, many fashion companies in Japan have been working on reviving an interest in traditional Japanese colors. Ordinary people of Edo named even slightly different color tones, each with individual exquisite and mind valuing 'iki' senses. They translated these into their livelihood and culture. The colorimetry result of 49 restored dyed fabrics were as follows; Hue difference was 7.8, value difference was 2.9, chroma difference was 1.8 of prefix siro. Hue difference was 3.8, value difference was 1.6, chroma difference was 1.7 of prefix usu. Hue difference was 3.5, value difference was 1.5, chroma difference was 1.4 of prefix cha. Hue difference was 6.4, value difference was 1.1, chroma difference was 1.6 of prefix koi. Hue difference was 7.5, value difference was 0.8, chroma difference was 3.3 of prefix nezumi.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.57-76
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• 2001

This study was intended to make a comparative analysis of the plastic features of Korean and Japanese dragon patterns found in the process of recreating traditions in comtemporary fashion based on the investigation into the style of expression in relation to the origin, formative evolution, symbolism and traditional costume of the dragon. The form of the dragon has evolved with some similarity and peculiarity between both countries and been changed into many kinds and diverse forms such as the humorous dragon pattern of the Yi Dynasty and the simplified and designed dragon pattern symbolizing the Japanese family crest and the like, Its symbolism has lasted in terms of the sacrificial object, royal power, good omen, Buddhist guardian and the like. There is a difference in the aesthetic sense due to the different traditions and cultural background between Korea and Japan, and the dragon pattern found in the process of recreating the tradition in comtemporary fashion manifested itself as the peculiar aspect. An attempt was made to make a comparative analysis of the dragon pattern found in comtemporary fashion between Korea and Japan. The following results were obtained: First, the commonality between both countries was to make a contemporary expression of the dragon pattern, which was expressed in a realistic form because of a traditionally inherent strong image of the dragon. On the other hand, the designed dragon pattern rarely found expression. It can be said that carefully treating the dragon pattern is attributed to the Oriental thinking like this. Second, Korean people have arranged one or more simplified dragon patterns taking on a form of the coiling dragon in the composition of the scattered point and made a comtemporary expression of them by the contrast of black and white shading in Korea. And the humorous form of the dragon pattern manifested itself in the Yi Dynasty. On the other hand, the case of printing the dragon pattern in the black dragon sword of all over the Kabuki costume in a pictorial composition has frequently appeared in Japan. And Japanese people have expressed its lightness and briskness rather than the dignity and strength that the dragon pattern gives with the use of strong color tones and new materials.

• 복식
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• 제51권7호
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• pp.63-73
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to be of use for more successful prediction of possible Prevailing aesthetic characteristics in the future, by reviewing how decadent features have actually been unfolded in fashion and make-up since the end of 20th century, as we are now in the new 21st century. The decadent traits of modern fashion and make-up since the late'90s could be listed as follows : first, the fashion has intentionally been designed to look disgusting, where realistic and imaginary images coexist, by using a half-man, half-machine image or vividly describing detestable animal skin, There have also been disgusting features in the make-up, which are so extremely weird that we can created by adding vinyl or pieces of textiles like Patch of the 17th century. Second, the satanic character of the fashion seems to be meant to keep in harmony with evil image such as Dracula, witch, skeleton or warrior of the evil, in order to charge the unnatural, inhuman and fin-de-siecle Phenomenon and find out what It really means for the inner world of men. And the demonic expressions of the make-up chiefly use white or black color or blue color of low saturation or low lightness, and part of facial features is exaggerated or shortchanged. Third, the decadent characteristics are expressed in the fashion by attaching sensational ornament to the human bode or using sexual exposure. So they give unnatural, unsound and extremely erotic impressions. The decadent features in the make-up are generated by excessively using a gay red color or sensational, exciting colors. Fourth, the exoticism of the fashion is largely affected by China's Chipaoh, Japan's Kimono or primitive motives from Africa, as there are increasing interests in Asia. And that of the make-up leans toward the East, as Kabuki make-up from Japan, Kyongkeuk make-up from China or the primitive features from Africa are employed.

• 한국연극학
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• 제52호
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• pp.189-228
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• 2014

The purpose of this research was to summarize Korea and China's researches on Noh and to examine main domain in this field, by investigating the academic books and articles published in two countries. In 1960s, since Nohgaku has been introduced to China, academic articles on Zeami's theories and aesthetics have emphasized on aesthetic characteristics of Chinese plays and Japanese Nohgaku through the similarities of oriental plays. The number of researches on Kabuki is almost twice as that of researches on Noh in China. While most researches on Kabuki were compared with the styles and music of Pecking Opera and the theatrical theories of liyu[李漁], those on Noh has been highlighted the comparative studies on $Y{\bar{o}}kyoku$[謠曲], Chinese Noh plays. The main difference among the researches on $Y{\bar{o}}kyoku$ in Korea and China was the material regarding characters of Noh. Because song yuanzaju[宋 元雜劇]and Nohgaku in Chinese-Japanese plays were the mature form of the classic plays and those were representative of traditional nation plays, this researches tried to ascertain the cultural origins of two countries regarding the aesthetic characteristics by referencing lyrical and narrative features[曲詞] of yuanzaju[元雜劇]and the classic waka of Nohgaku. While the comparative studies on Noh and song yuanzaju and kunqu[昆劇] in China were prevalent, national researches have emphasized on the inner world of the main character and dramaturgy through the verbal description of Noh. Especially, this research tried to investigate the inner world of the main character and the intention of the writers through the verbal description of Noh authorized in the history of the works. Also, the researches on Buddhism in the Middle Ages and religious background were examined significantly. In addition, the $Y{\bar{o}}kyoku$ has influenced on European modern playwrights and the comparative studies between the materials of $Y{\bar{o}}kyoku$ and Western modern plays were concerned. In Korea, the comparative studies on Noh between Korea abd Japan has been most focused on the origin theory of Noh. The fact that appearance theory of Noh had originated from Sangaku was common opinion among Korean, Chinese, and Japanese scholars. However, they are agree with the opinion that according to the formation of the different genres, Noh's mainstream was different among three countries despite of the same origin. Yuan drama and Noh play have the same origin, but different branch. In relation to the Noh's origin theory, there are literature comparative studies in religious background, the studies presumed the origin of instrumental music related to those in mask plays, and the comparative studies between Korean mask plays and $ky{\bar{o}}gen$ of Nohgaku. Kyogen is the Comedy inserted among the stories in Nohgaku performed in just one day. Therefore, $ky{\bar{o}}gen$ must be discussed separately from the relations of 'shite[任手]'s inner action veiled with masks. This research figured out that the lacking points of the two countries' researches were the acting methods of Noh. Academic articles written by foreign scholars studying Korean and Chinese theatres should be included when this issue will be dealt with. In Korea and China, translation studies and writings regarding Nohgaku have studied by those who are major in Japanese literature or oriental literature. This case is the same in Korea in that scholars whose speciality is not theatre, but Japanese literature has studied. Therefore, this present study can give a good grasp of whole tendency on Nohgaku's research in theatre fields.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제40호
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• pp.71-109
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• 2020

일본의 대표적인 전통무용인 니혼부요(日本舞踊)는 가부키무용에서 출발하여 수많은 유파를 형성하였으며 이에모토 제도에 의해 운영되어왔다. 가업(家業)계승이라는 점에서 이에모토(家元)는 고대부터 존재해왔지만 근세봉건 시대에 제도로서 성립되었다. 특히 니혼부요에 있어 이에모토 제도는 근대 이후에 크게 발전하였다. 이에모토 제도(家元制度)는 일본사회의 한 특징으로 여겨져 왔으며 전통예술의 계승에도 크게 기여해왔다. 즉 이에모토 제도는 기본적으로 뛰어난 스승의 기예를 왜곡없이 온전하게 전승하는 것을 최고의 권위로 여긴다. 구체적으로는 분야나 유파에 따라 다양한 형태를 띠고 있지만 의제(擬制) 가족제도 내에서 이에모토를 정점으로 하는 조직 및 제도이다. 본고에서는 니혼부요의 성립과 배경을 검토하고 습명제도를 통해 이에모토의 명성과 권위를 이어가고 있음을 살펴보았다. 니혼부요계는 유파의 범람이라고 할 정도로 수많은 유파가 존재한다. 이러한 유파를 가부키배우계통, 안무가계통, 여성예인계통, 지우타마이(地唄舞)계통, 신무용계통으로 구분하여 각 유파의 성립배경과 특성을 통해 이에모토 제도의 양상을 살펴보았다. 전통계승이라는 긍정적인 측면이 있는 한편, 창의적이고 개인의 자유로운 표현을 중요시하는 예술계에 있어서 이에모토의 경직된 조직경영, 봉건사회의 산물, 권력화, 이에 따른 예술의 고착화 등 부정적인 비판의 목소리도 끊이지 않는다. 그러나 전통을 중시하는 일본사회에서 이에모토 제도는 쉽게 사라지지 않을 것이다. 오히려 다양한 예술장르가 공존하는 오늘날 전통예술에 대한 가치를 살리고자 이에모토 내부의 자성과 함께 젊은 무용가들의 도전이 시작되고 있다. 니혼부요계의 이에모토 제도에 대한 고찰을 통해 점차 형해화되어가고 있는 무형문화재에 대한 재인식의 계기가 되고자 한다.

• 한국작물학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국작물학회 2017년도 9th Asian Crop Science Association conference
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• pp.321-321
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• 2017

Water availability in rainfed lowlands (RFL) is strongly affected by climate change. In RFL, rice plants are exposed to soil moisture fluctuations (SMF) but rarely to simple progressive drought as widely believed. Typical RFL field is characterized by a about 5-cm thick high bulk density hardpan layer underneath the cultivated layer at about 20 cm depth that impedes deep root development. Root system has the ability to develop in response to changes in SMF, known as phenotypic plasticity. We hypothesized that genotypes that can adapt to RFL have root plasticity. The roots can sharply respond to re-wetting after drought period and thus penetrate the hardpan layer when the hardpan is wet and so becomes relatively soft, and thus access water under the hardpan. This study aimed to identify CSSLs derived from a cross between Sasanishiki and Habataki which adapted to such RFL conditions. We used 39 CSSLs together with the parent Sasanishiki, which were grown in hydroponics and pot under transient soil moisture stresses (drought and then rewatering), and compared with continuously well-watered (WW) (control) up to 14 days after sowing (DAS), and 20 DAS, respectively. Based on the results of hydroponics and pot experiments, we selected a few lines, which were grown in the soil-filled rootbox with artificial hardpan layer and without artificial hardpan. For the rootbox without artificial hardpan, plants were grown under WW and transient soil moisture stresses for 49 DAS. While the rootbox with artificial hardpan, the plants were grown under WW (control) and SMF (WW up to 21 DAS, 1st drought (22-36 DAS), rewatering (37-44 DAS), and followed by 2nd drought (45-58 DAS)). Among the 39 CSSLs, only CSSL439 (SL39) consistently showed significantly higher shoot dry weight (SDW) than Sasanishiki under transient soil moisture stress conditions as well as SMF conditions in all the experiments. Furthermore, under WW, SL39 consistently showed no significant differences from Sasanishiki in shoot and root growth in most of traits examined. SL39 showed significantly greater total root length (TRL) than Sasanishiki under transient soil moisture stress, which is considered as phenotypic plasticity in response to rewatering after drought period. Such plastic root development was the key trait that effectively contributed to root elongation and branching during the rewatering period and consequently enhanced the root to penetrate hardpan layer when the soil penetration resistance at hardpan layer reduced. In addition, using the rootbox with artificial hardpan layer ($1.7g\;cm^{-3}$, heavily compacted), SL39 showed greater root system development than Sasanishiki under SMF, which was expressed in its significantly higher TRL, total nodal RL, and total lateral RL at hardpan layer as well as at below the hardpan layer. These results prove that SL39 has plasticity that enables its root systems to penetrate hardpan layer in response to rewatering. Under SMF, such root plasticity contributed to its higher gs and Pn.