• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.676-682
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• 2010

Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.237-248
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to compare the comfort sensation depending on four different kinds of denim blue jeans: cotton, cotton/tencel, tencel, cotton/pp. The objective and subjective experiments were conducted to measure the comfort of blue jeans. To investigate the objective comfort, physical properties related to thermal insulation, moisture properties and hand were measured. For subjective comfort measurement, 5 healthy female college students were taken as subjects. The outcomes of the experiments are as follows: The higher the air permeability and bulk density of the denim, the lower the thermal insulation, the thicker the denim, the higher the thermal insulation. Tencel blending denim showed the higher bulk density, the lower air contents, and consequently the lower thermal insulation than the other denims. Tencel showed the highest moisture regain, and cotton/tencel blend showed the highest water vapor permeability. Tencel denim had relatively better flexibility, shape stability and elastic recovery than the other denims. The total hand values of the denims by KES-FB system were not significantly different. Cotton and cotton/pp denims raised the subjects body temperature after excercise more than tencel or cotton/tencel denims. Average skin temperature was found to have a correlation with micro climate temperature and micro climate humidity. The correlation coefficients were 0.749 and 0.767, respectively. However, average skin temperatures were not significantly different among the materials. Pulse rate was found to be the highest when wearing cotton/pp and the lowest in case of cotton/tencel denim. The energy was consumed in order of cotton>cotton/pp>tencel>cotton/tencel. There was no significant difference in preference before excercise, but, after the excercise, the order of preference changed as the following; cotton/tencel>tencel>cotton/pp>cotton.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.28-34
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• 2005

The purpose of the research was to examine the effect of three different levels of enzyme treatment on the physical characteristics and the end-use suitability of the lyocell fabrics made with four different types of commercial wood pulp. The appropriate enzyme concentration for obtaining an optimum as well as consistent physical characteristics and fabric hand trait was 3 g/l for the concentration levels tested in the present investigation. Weight loss was more affected by higher enzyme con­centration than other physical properties. H2 was least affected by enzyme treatment for all three physical properties and fab­ric hand. 5 g/l concentration exhibited little difference from 3 g/l in the physical characteristics, whereas the KES-FB values indicated a significant loss of fabric hand in most PHV s with the 5 g/l concentration level. Among different garment parame­ters, all four fabric types were relatively inappropriate for the men's slacks (MS) fabric due to the lower hand value of koshi required by the MS parameter. However, despite the relatively low koshi values, high fukurami values required for men's dress shirt (MWDS) resulted in the highest THV among the four garment parmeters. The four fabric types, which represent the usage of four different wood pulps, in general seem to exhibit a higher applicability to women's winter thin dress (WWTD) than women's winter suit (WWS) garment parameter.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• 감성과학
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.201-208
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 심한 소음으로 불쾌감을 주는 스포츠웨어용 PTFE 라미네이팅 투습발수 직물 8종을 대상으로 직물 마찰음의 심리음향학적 특성을 고찰하고, 심리음향학적 특성에 영향을 미치는 직물의 기본 특성과 역학적 특성 간의 관계를 파악함으로써, 직물의 심리음향학적 마찰음을 낮출 수 있는 변인을 찾아내고자 하였다. 직물 마찰음 시뮬레이터를 이용하여 녹음한 직물의 소리에서 Zwicker의 파라미터인 심리음향학적 크기(loudness(Z)), 날카로움(sharpness(Z)), 거칠기(roughness(Z)), 그리고 변동강도(fluctuation strength(Z))를 계산한 뒤, 소리특성에 대한 사후검정 결과에 따라 시료를 덜 시끄러운 PTFE 필름 그룹과 더 시끄러운 PTFE 필름 그룹으로 나누어 마찰음의 심리음향학적 특성과 직물의 역학적 특성, 기본특성간의 관계를 고찰하였다. 심리음향학적 특성 중 loudness(Z)만이 시료의 마찰음과 유의한 관계에 있는 것으로 나타났으며, 분석 결과 직물의 기본 특성에서는 layer가 얇고 필라멘트사를 사용한 직물의 마찰음이 덜 시끄럽게 인지되는 것으로 나타났으며, 직물 마찰음의 심리음향학적 크기에 영향을 미치는 주요변수로는 layer로 것으로 나타났다. 마찰음이 작은 PTFE 필름 그룹의 경우 전단 방향으로의 변형이 어려울수록 마찰음이 시끄나타났다. 시끄러운 마찰음을 갖는 PTFE 필름 그룹의 경우 심리음향학적 크기에 영향을 미치는 주요 변수로 전단이력이 설명 변인으로 포함되었다.

• 감성과학
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.77-86
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• 2009

자동차는 첨단공업 기술이 고도로 집적되어 있는 인간-기계 시스템(man machine system)이다. 자동차에 대한 새로운 감성요구를 실현하기 위해서는 인체와 오랜 시간 접촉해 있는 시트 표피재의 분석이 반드시 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 자동차 시트 표피재의 역학적 특성과 감성을 고려한 고급감을 예측하여 고감성 내장 표피재 개발에 기여하고자 한다. 감성용어는 Softness(유연한), Elasticity(탱글탱글한), Volume(풍성한), Stickiness (끈끈한)를 설정하였으며, 이와 대응하는 표피재의 역학적 특성 치를 측정하였다. 피혁의 특성평가에 의한 결과로 resilience, bending moment, thickness와 friction 값을 얻을 수 있었으며, 이러한 역학적 특성 치를 softness, elasticity, volume, stickiness 값으로 변화하기 위해 fuzzy logic을 사용하였다. 또한 Fuzzy logic의 결과인 Softness, Elasticity, Volume, Stickiness 값으로 피혁의 고급감을 예측하기 위한 신경망 모델(Neural network)을 구성하였다. 즉, 자동차 표피재 중 피혁의 4가지 물리량으로 인간의 감성인 표피재의 고급감을 예측하여 고감성 자동차 시트 표피재의 개발을 위한 예측 모델의 가능성을 평가하였다.

• 감성과학
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.141-148
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 생체모방기술을 응용하여 감성의류용 구조발색사를 방사하고, 이를 사용하여 직물을 제직 감량 가공하여 이들의 발색성 및 촉감 물성을 측정하여 감성의류용 용도의 적용성을 확인하여 다음과 같은 연구결과를 얻었다. 삼각단면을 가진 37층의 폴리에스테르와 나일론을 교호로 적층한 구조발색사의 방사조건을 확립하였으며, 이 세 가지 사의 발색성을 multi angle spectro-photometer로 확인하였다. 그리고 이 사들로 제직한 구조발색 직물 세 가지의 겉보기 색차와 반사율을 분석한 결과, 700nm에서 400nm까지의 파장에서 발색성을 확인하였다. 또한, 직물의 밀도와 조직이 다른 세 가지 구조발색 직물을 제직하고 감량 가공 처리하여 직물 역학특성치에서 촉감을 측정한 결과, $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리한 시료가 최적설계(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) 및 감량 조건임을 확인할 수 있었다. 그리고 감량 처리 시 온도와 처리시간 증가에 따라 감량률이 13%에서 최대 23%까지 증가함을 확인할 수 있었다. 이때 직물의 신축특성, 굽힘강성 및 전단강성은 감소하며 압축특성은 증가하는 현상을 보였다. 그리고 최적설계조건인 1번 직물시료를 $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리할 때 촉감이 가장 우수하며 일본 몰포 직물보다 더 우수한 촉감치를 얻었다.