• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.870-879
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• 2006

In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This study aims at the improvement of sewing function through understandings of dynamic property about the sewing methods and the thread material selection in knitwear. The tensile strength and shear of KES-FB and the Instron were measured for the analysis of the mechanical properties. The knit cloth was structured In the plain stitch, $1\times1$ rib stitch and $2\times1$ rib stitch with the combination of wool and cotton. With regard to the sewing method, intralooping and interlacing were applied. For thread materials, polyester, cotton, wool and silk were used. Since silk has the lowest extension and similar values regardless of its construction in intralooping, it is available knit apparel with uniform elastic recoverv. It also has small shearing resistance. It can be used in apparel which needs big mobility, but it causes rutting problem. Therefore, it is suitable to use intralooping. When the same sewing yarn and textile are use, it can lower shearing resistance and extension in intralooping, Since wool needs a lot of extension energy and it can be cut, intralooping is more suitable than interlacing in sewing of wool. In interlacing using polyester, extension and shearing resistance are high. Therefore, it is suitable for knit sewing with high massing. Silk is not suitable for interlacing since it can be rut. Even though knit materials are different, the RT values of polyester and cotton are similar in same construction. Therefore, they can be substituted each other considering resilience after sewing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.566-571
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• 2008

Frictional sounds of 8 vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by sound generator were recorded and analyzed through FFT fast Fourier transform analysis. The frictional Sounds were quantified by calculating level pressure of total sound(LPT), the level range(${\Delta}L$) and the frequency difference(${\Delta}f$). Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB. LPT values of specimens finished wet coating were higher than those of other kinds of finishing. ${\Delta}L$ values of specimens laminated were highest. Absolute values of ${\Delta}f$ were high in the cire finished and laminated specimens. Values for bending rigidity, shear stiffness and energy required for the compression of coated specimens increased compared with the cire finished and laminated specimens. Laminated specimens had high values of frictional coefficient and low values of surface roughness. Relationship between frictional sounds and mechanical properties analysed by use of correlation coefficients and stepwise regression. LPT showed significant correlation with elongation, tensile energy, geometrical roughness, weight and thickness. ${\Delta}L$ was highly correlated with tensile linearity, frictional coefficient, and ${\Delta}f$ with tensile linearity, weight and thickness. LPT were revealed to be explained by elongation and weight. ${\Delta}L$were predicted by tensile linearity, and ${\Delta}f$ by tensile linearity and thickness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1020-1029
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• 2015

This paper investigated the wearing performance of knitted fabrics made of air vortex yarns using PTT/tencel/cotton fibres in comparison with ring and compact yarns for emotional garment. Wicking property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was worse than those by ring and compact yarns, however, drying property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was explained as more water vapor transport due to larger openness between fibres in the MVS yarns than those in the ring and compact yarns. Thermal conductivity of knitted fabric made of MVS was lower than those of ring and compact yarns and maximum heat flow(Q_max) at the transient state of MVS knitted fabric was lower than those of ring and compact yarns, which may be attributed to MVS yarn structure that has parallel fibres in the core part of the yarn and fasciated fibre bundles on the sheath part with roughness on the yarn surface. However, pilling of MVS knitted fabric was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was caused by less and shorter hairy fibres protruded from MVS yarn surface than those of ring and compact yarns. It was observed that tactile hand of MVS yarn knitted fabrics was stiffer than those of ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was explained by low extensibility and compressibility and high bending and shear rigidities of the MVS yarn knitted fabrics, which resulted in bad wearing performance of MVS knitted fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.486-491
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• 2012

This study examined the sound characteristics of Taekwondo uniform fabrics to investigate the relationship between the sound parameters and the mechanical properties of the fabric as well as to provide the conditions to maximize the frictional sound of the uniform. Frictional sounds of 6 fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms were generated by the Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics. The frictional speeds were controlled at low(0.62 m/s), at mid(1.21 m/s) and at high(2.25 m/s) speed, respectively. The frictional sounds were recorded using a Data Recorder and Sound Quality System subsequently, the physical sound properties such as SPL(Sound Pressure Level) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters were calculated. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB. The SPL, Loudness(Z) values increased while Sharpness(Z) value decreased. In the physical sound parameter, specimen E had the highest SPL value at low speed and specimen B at high speed. In case of Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters, the commercially available Taekwondo uniform fabrics(E, F) showed higher values of Loudness(Z), Sharpness(Z), and Roughness(Z), that indicates they can produce louder, shaper and rougher sounds than other fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms. The decisive factors that affected frictional sounds for Taekwondo uniforms were W(weight) as well as EM(elongation at maximum load) at low speed and WC(compressional energy) at high speed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.157-169
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• 1996

Polyester yarns and fabrics containing three levels of $TiO_2$ delusterant were hydrolyzed with NaOH and examined for physical and morphological changes. The mechanical propertis and hand values of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics were measured using KES-FB system. Also, the relationship between the morphology and the mechanical property of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics was analyzed. The results are as follows: 1. At an initial stage of alkaline treatment, the concentration of $TiO_2$ did not affect the weight loss of the treated yarns. But by increasing treatment time, the effect of the concentration of $TiO_2$ on the weight loss of the fiber became more pronounced. The weight loss were increased in the following order; fulldull> semidull> clear 2. The effect of hydrolysis on yarn tensile strength seems to be more related to the size of the pits on the fibers rather than the number of pits. 3. Axially oriented pits occurred along the hydroyzed, delustered fiber surfaces, while such pitting was absent on hydrolyzed fiber containing no $TiO_2$. The number of voids across the surface of a fiber increased with an increase in the amount of TiOa incorporated into the fibers. The size of the voids depended on the treatment time of hydrolysis rather than the concentration of TiOa. 4. The mechanical properties and hand values of polyester fabrics were changed by alkaline treatment but were identical regardless of the concentration of TiOa. While the mechanical properties of polyester fabrics depended on the structural change of the fibers and the yarns within the fabrics as the fiber diameter became progressively smaller rather than the size and number of pits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.968-981
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.117-128
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to clarify the effects of constituent characteristics and the mechanical properties by KES-FB system on the visual texture images and preference of men's suit fabrics. Twenty different kinds of black fabrics, which were used mainly for the spring and summer men's suits, were selected and the subjective evaluation of the visual texture images was tested. Sixty experts in department of clothing and apparel industries participated in the subjective evaluation. Factor analysis showed visual texture images were classified into 4 categories : 'bulkiness', $'extensibility{\cdot}rapability'$, 'flexibility' and 'smoothness'. All of relationships were established between the mechanical properties and the visual texture images except the relation between 'flexibility' and bending properties. The significant factors affecting preference were 'smoothness', compression energy(WC), fabric count and 'flexibility', As the fabrics had higher value for 'smoothness' and 'flexibility' , and lower ones for compression energy and fabric count, they tended to be more preferred.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.309-315
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• 2013

This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.