• 감성과학
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2000

한·미 문화간 비교를 통하여 직물의 소리와 촉감이 주관적 감각에 미치는 영향을 고찰하고자 한국인과 미국인 각각 30명을 대상으로 의미분별척도에 의하여 서로 다른 8개 직물 소리의 주관적 감각(부드러움, 시끄러움, 유쾌함, 날카로움, 맑음, 거친, 높음)과 촉감의 주관적 감각 (딱딱함, 매끄러움, 성김, 시원함, 유연함, 까실거림, 무게, 두께)을 측정하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터로 LPT(level pressure of total sound)와 Δf (frequency differences)를 계산하고, KES (Kawabata Evaluation System)을 이용하여 직물의 역학적 성질을 측정하였다. 직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’의 점수가 높고 ‘시끄러움’과 ‘날카로움’, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮은 직물들이 주관적으로 유쾌하게 느껴지는 것으로 나타났다. 직물에 따른 소리의 시끄러움과 날카로움, 높음에 대한 주관적 감각은 한·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였으나, 한국인은 미국인보다 모직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’과 ‘유쾌함’의 점수가 높고, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮았으며, ‘맑음’에 대한 직물별 점수가 다양하였다. 직물의 촉감은 직물에 따른 차이가 더 다양하게 나타났다. ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’의 직물 별 감각은 한 ·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였는데, 한국인은 대체로 미국인보다 ‘성금’과 ‘까실거림’을 낮게, ‘시원함’을 높게 평가하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터인 LPT와 ΔL이 양국인의 소리 감각에 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 감각은 주로 LPT가, 미국인의 감각은 LPT와 ΔL이 함께 영향을 미치는 회귀식이 성립하였다. 촉감에서 ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’, ‘유연함’, ‘까실거림’에 한·미 모두 표면 거칠기가 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 촉감에 대한 회귀식이 더 많이 성립하였고 R2가 높게 나타났다.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.169-173
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• 2005

Low temperature plasma (LTP) treatment was applied to wool fabric with the use of a non-polymerizing gas, namely oxygen. After the LTP treatment, the fabric properties including low-stress mechanical properties, air permeability and thermal properties, were evaluated. The low-stress mechanical properties were evaluated by means of Kawabata Evaluation System Fabric (KES-F) revealing that the tensile, shearing, bending, compression and surface properties were altered after the LTP treatment. The changes in these properties are believed to be related closely to the inter-fiber and inter-yam frictional force induced by the LTP. The decrease in the air permeability of the LTP-treated wool fabric was found to be probably due to the plasma action effect on increasing in the fabric thickness and a change in fabric surface morphology. The change in the thermal properties of the LTP-treated wool fabric was in good agreement with the above findings and can be attributed to the amount of air trapped between the yams and fibers. This study suggested that the LTP treatment can influence the final properties of the wool fabric.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.68-76
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate change of mechanical and physical properties, shape behavior and hand value in weft knit when rib stitch and milan stitch are combined. The knit stitches used in this study are plain stitch, half milan rib stitch, milan rib stitch, $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}1$ half milan rib stitch and $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch. We analyzed physical and mechanical properties(tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight) of the knit stitches and calculated their primary hand value and total hand value through translational formulas using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). The results are as follows; In evaluation of mechanical properties and hand values of knit stitches, plain stitch had the highest flexibility and the lowest T.H.V. as women's winter knit wear. Since $2{\times}1$ rib stitch had too high elongation in one direction, although it had the highest T.H.V, it needs to be careful when plain stitch and $2{\times}1$ rib stitch are applied for women's winter knit wear. Since Milan rib stitch and $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch had high T.H.V. similarly, it is considered that they are suitable for women's winter knit wear. Specially, when Milan stitch is combined with $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, its shape stability and fullness are contained and flexibility is added on it. Therefore, $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch can be also applied for women's winter knit wear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.997-1007
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• 2005

The textile finishing methods utilizing chitosan have been mostly focused on the applications in the improvement of the dyeing of cotton fabrics, or the improvement of hand of the cotton or wool fabrics. On the other hand, it Is difficult to find the application examples in the synthetic fiber fabrics including polyester and nylon fabrics. The aim of this study is to improve the stiffness and the poor wash fastness of the fabrics treated only with chitosan. We tried to improve the softness by employing chitosan and polyurethane mixture solution and to prevent the detachment of the chitosan from the fabric. The treatment was applied to cotton, polyester, and nylon fabrics. The change of the properties of the treated fabrics were investigated. The optimum finishing condition was sought by changing the mixture ratio of the chitosan/PU(polyurethane) solutions. The adjusted ratios of the chitosan/PU solutions were 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, and 1 : 2 during the mixture solution preparation. Using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System), the physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were analyzed, and hand values of the specimens were calculated through the use of translational formulas. According to the chemical composition of the fibers, chitosan solution or chitosan/PU mixture exhibited wide range of coating effect. Since the chitosan acid solution has high polarity, the bonding force with the cotton fibers is high. By the appropriate addition of PU in the chitosan treatment of cotton, KOSHI and HARI values of the fabric improved. The air permeability of the chitosan/PU treated cotton fabric specimen improved, resulting in the highest value at the mixture of chitosan : PU=1:0.25.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제47권5호
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• pp.80-84
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• 2015

Softness is considered one of the most important attributes of hygiene paper such as tissue and towel. Being subjective in nature, however, softness attribute has been generally believed to be impossible to evaluate using objective methods. Hallmark in his pioneering work proposed that tissue subjective softness should be mainly consisted of the bulk softness component and surface softness component. The bulk softness component can be determined by tensile stiffness; the surface softness component by surface tester. The surface friction turns out far more important than the surface roughness in determining the surface softness component. It cannot be too much emphasized that both results of the tensile stiffness and the surface friction should depend on measuring conditions such as an instrument used, sample sizes (e.g., basis weight, length, and width) and operating conditions of the instrument (e.g., gauge length, cross-head speed, size of stylus, and its scanning speed). This indicates that a direct comparison of the test results would be impossible or misleading unless they have been tested under the identical conditions. This may explain why the standard objective test method for tissue softness has not been available at present.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2010

Interests in creating three-dimensionally designed fabric materials are growing rapidly in the sectors of the fashionable textiles with the creativity, new functions, and aesthetics. A number of finishing methods have been developed and proposed to add or create new functions and designs for silk fabrics. Due to the strong hydrogen bonds between the molecules of silk fibroins, the thermal treatment methods used in thermoplastic fiber processing, which can easily deform the synthetic filament fabrics to endow three-dimensional appearance to the fabrics, are not applicable to the silk fabric treatment. In order to modify the fine structure of silk fiber, neutral salt solution treatment methods have been suggested. In this study, the effect of the calcium nitrate solution on the physical and mechanical properties of silk fabrics was investigated by using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) equipment. Based on these findings, relationships between parameters, for example, the thickness and the compressional energy, the thickness and the compressional linearity, and the air permeability and the pore area statistical analysis were investigated. The relationships between the process parameters such as treatment temperature/time and the resulting fabric property parameters were also analyzed by using several SAS procedures.

• 감성과학
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.77-86
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• 2009

자동차는 첨단공업 기술이 고도로 집적되어 있는 인간-기계 시스템(man machine system)이다. 자동차에 대한 새로운 감성요구를 실현하기 위해서는 인체와 오랜 시간 접촉해 있는 시트 표피재의 분석이 반드시 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 자동차 시트 표피재의 역학적 특성과 감성을 고려한 고급감을 예측하여 고감성 내장 표피재 개발에 기여하고자 한다. 감성용어는 Softness(유연한), Elasticity(탱글탱글한), Volume(풍성한), Stickiness (끈끈한)를 설정하였으며, 이와 대응하는 표피재의 역학적 특성 치를 측정하였다. 피혁의 특성평가에 의한 결과로 resilience, bending moment, thickness와 friction 값을 얻을 수 있었으며, 이러한 역학적 특성 치를 softness, elasticity, volume, stickiness 값으로 변화하기 위해 fuzzy logic을 사용하였다. 또한 Fuzzy logic의 결과인 Softness, Elasticity, Volume, Stickiness 값으로 피혁의 고급감을 예측하기 위한 신경망 모델(Neural network)을 구성하였다. 즉, 자동차 표피재 중 피혁의 4가지 물리량으로 인간의 감성인 표피재의 고급감을 예측하여 고감성 자동차 시트 표피재의 개발을 위한 예측 모델의 가능성을 평가하였다.