• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.25
• /
• pp.269-284
• /
• 1995

This study investgates the significance of Chosun burial clothing in 15th to 17th Centuries by examing the costumes recorded in the ryesu (ritual books). Referring to description of the mouring-rit-ual in the the Kujoohryei(국조오례의), the sangryebiyo(상례비요), they exhibit little differ-ence in the ceremonial procedure, this implies that the the Jujagarye, the oldiest Chinese Ryesu, had influence on the manner of Chosun. The Kujoohryei(국조오례의) written-in 15th Century played a paramount role in domesti-cation of burial costume(염습의) which had been performed by the Jujagarye(주자가례), and the sangryebiyo(상례비요) etc written between 16th and 17th Centries promoted to genealize the mouring-ritual to the ordinery people. In the period, ryemsupui(염습의, clothing for the dead) is costumes for 'sup(습)', sofyum(소렴), and 'daeryum(대렴)' in the mourning ceremorial procedure, and for postliminal rites in the rites of passage. The reason of using clothing which they put on the dead's own daily clothing stands for eagerness for lasting life not only in this world but also in the other world.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.144-152
• /
• 2004

In this study, the settlement of this etiquette book and the five-class mourning-costume system throughout two dynasties is examined and analyzed.; According to the Chosun dynasty's efforts to practice Chu-Ja-Ga-Rye(朱子家禮, Chu Hsi's Book of Family Rituals) through legal intensification and enlightenment policies, the book's teachings had a general effect on society at large. As a result, the family system and funeral rites turned Confucian from a Shaman-Buddhist mixture. As the Confucian order was strengthened to highlight the authority of the male family head, the funeral rituals were based on Chu Hsi's Book of Family Rituals. So, the 100-day funeral of Koryo turned into the 3-year funeral in the Chosun dynasty. Also, the main and father's lines were valued, while the mother's and wife's lines were neglected. Even though there was no great difference of status or place between males and females in the Koryo dynasty, the settlement of Chu-Ja-Ga-Rye brought about the drop of women's status as they gradually began to be dependent on men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.6
• /
• pp.80-97
• /
• 2012

This study empirically examined Seo Yu-gu's views on constumes that are based on 'Boksikjigu[服飾之具]' of Seomyongji[贍用志] in Imwonkyungjeji[林園經濟志]. In 'Boksikjigu', Seo Yu-gu explained different situations and problems that were related to costumes and proposed solutions for the problems. This study examined the contents, and divide the items into caps, accessories, and clothes. The results of this study were as follows. First, Seo Yu-gu in he rited the tradition of erudition. Seo Yu-gu classified various costume items systematically, and explained in detail about the origin, history and materials of the costume items. Second, he emphasized frugality, effective use, and welfare. Seo Yu-gu argued that the sleeves should be shortened for convenience and tried to improve practicality in the functional aspect. Also, he wanted to enrich people's life by improving the convenience of goods used in daily life. Third, he tried to establish identity as a Confucian intellect. This idea was clearly shown in 'costumes'; therefore, they served as evidences that Seo Yu-gu used to correct wrong practices through precise historical investigation and review of Shim-ui[深衣], the symbol of the practice of Jujagarye[朱子家禮]. In his later years, he discovered the plain dress that was worn as a casual wear by ZhuXi[朱熹]and tried to wear it in dailylife.