• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.741-755
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• 2012

This study mathematically and scientifically investigated the aesthetic consciousness of women inherent in the costume craftworks craftworks of the Chosun Dynasty through a systematical analysis of their textile pattern composition using visual language theory. The tangent value from the horizontal and vertical ratio of the costume craftworks craftworks indicated that they had an indigenous proportion system with a relatively regular form and pattern but without an exaggerated type. There was a module based on structures in the textile patterns of the costume craftworks craftworks and the patterns were constructed by the module with the syntagms of the ratio structure. Moreover, the analysis of the pattern designs indicated that the whole form of the costume craftworks craftworks was built through a repetitive structure of feature and one of pattern units; in addition, the craftworks had the extended composition and blank space of daring patterns, an important factor to make a whole design. Therefore, our study suggested that the costume craftworks craftworks of the Chosun Dynasty was characterized by the presentation of the aesthetic style with a Geumgang ratio (an indigenous proportion system used in Korea) and could be interpreted as an art style based on the beauty of space. Moreover, it is suggested that the spirit inherent in the costume craftworks of the Chosun Dynasty (which tried to understand the whole as one and equate the whole and parts) might agree with a holistic tendency as the foundation of Korea art.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.145-152
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out the traditional decoration techniques in the Korean costume. Both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and investigated the traditional decoration techniques used in the related literatures and museum catalogues. The results were as follows. The broad and back stitching are fundamental stitching, which used to Nubi and Keki. Top stitching applied broadly to the Korean costume, for example, Jergori, Wonsam, Jeonbok, Beosun, Bojagj and so on. The expression techniques for top stitching were one, two or three stitches. When the top stitching was used as colorful stitches, they were more decorative. The Zatmulim was used for the decorative effect on the seam line because it was triangular shaped and became more effective by changing the rotor and size. Sunmulim was used on the narrow line such as the seam lines of Gergori and Chima. The bakchi decoration was imitating a bat shape, had a meaning of bringing the goodness and gave the tiny and elaborated image. It was used to the neckline of Geogori, seam line of Chima, Pungcha Bazi and so on. Sattgi was used to attaching the bottom of two stiff fabrics adopting for Beosun, Ayam and Norigae. When it used colorful strings, the more decorative effect was added. The knot for button used the fabric instead of buttons and applied to the Cheonlik, Gergori. The aesthetic values of the traditional decoration techniques in the costume were both natural beauty and practicality with creativity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.98-112
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• 2010

This study is on the 18th-century man's clothing excavated from Mr. Kim(1683-1766)'s tomb in Cheongju, Chungbuk in 2003. There are more than 100 pieces of excavated costumes from the tomb of Won-taek Kim. The excavated costumes have the value of genuine materials. Among them, 36 garments in good condition were investigated. As a result, there are several kinds of the excavated coats with different sizes, depending on the type of coats-Simui(深衣), Danryeong(團領), Sagyusam(四揆衫), Daechang, jungchimak(中赤莫), and Sochangui. These different-size coats reveal the degree of ritual; the length of the ritual costume is longer than that of the daily one. We can see two kinds (large and small) of coats, jackets, and pants. The large-size clothing is for the dead, the small size one as daily clothing was used for filling the empty space of the coffin. Among the excavated clothing from Mr. Kim's tomb, clothing for the dead(shroud) is bigger than man's daily costume. Concerning the form, color, and materials of the costumes, clothing for the dead is similar to daily clothing, while there is the difference in their size. The oversized costumes of coats, jackets, and pants are also different in size, matching the structure of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.167-183
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• 1990

As an attempt to view Chason costume from a aesthetic perspective, the aesthetic values of the Choson people, as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics of costumes, are pursued in this study. To appreciate the beauty of the traditional Korean costume, the following aesthetic characteristics of Choson costumes are investigated: form, color, pattern, material and ornament. From the view point of aesthetics, this study shows that Choson costume had comfortable and voluminous forms with beautiful curved lines and rhythm. The most favored colors were white and natural colors of materials. However unusual combination of colors such as the contrast of black and white, the harmony of the primary and rainbow colors were often used. Patterns revealed two aspects : while subdued patterns generally prevail, at times the unexpected beauty of primary colored patterns draws our attention. Smooth natural materials were preferred. Ornaments both for practical and decorative purposes were used together with certain colors and patterens, indicating wearer's status and warding off the evil's spirits. The aesthetic values in costumes as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics can be classified into the following categories: the beauty of nature, the beauty of personality, the aesthetics of evil's eye and the beauty of tradition. The beauty of nature, as appreciated by the Chason people through their prevailing nature, the "Pung-rew Spirit" and through their Worship of Heaven, produced aesthetic characteristics in harmony with nature. The beauty of personality influenced by the ethical standard of Confucianism produced aesthetic characteristics in costumes, through which the appropriate personality was shown for the appropriate social status. On the other hand, the aesthetics of evil's eye, rooted deeply in Folk religion and Shamanism, contributed to various aesthetic characteristics, which strongly inclined to sorcery and symbolism through choice of patterns, colors and ornaments. Finally, the beauty of tradition, which was based on the ethics of Confucianism and the Choson people's conservative tendencies, demonstrated the strong tendency to adhere to the external characteristics of the Choson costume. These aesthetic values were the yardsticks of the aesthetic judgment of the Choson people. These values influenced Chason people in designing costumes and in appreciating the beauty of costumes. The aesthetic experience and attitudes of the Chason people, which were based on these aesthetic values, represented their aesthetic consciousness and desires.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.159-164
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• 2001

Illusory Correlation Effect(ICE) is a cognitive error that arises from overestimating particular stimulus of an individual or a group. This may cause formation of stereotypes of the individual or the group and may also lead to generating various biased judgments. this study investigated the Illusory Correlation Effect of clothing style and considered the effect of Preview information. The results Provided evidence for the existence of an illusory correlation between a wearer and clothing style. Also, an illusory correlation was influenced information of stimuli attributes. This implies subjects perceived stimuli more distinctively when previous information was provided.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.245-252
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• 1997

In this study, the comfortable as well as good-looking overall patterns were investigated. To measure the maximum vertical spaces caused by the body movements, basic foundation type of overall pattern was made. The vertical spaces, which were measured using the CRO-SS-CUT method. The Result was as followings : The Maximum vertical space was 19.7㎝. The Maximum vertical space was 4.2㎝. The vertical space increased as the leg-movement angle increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.39-58
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• 1998

In this research, first of all, the special feat-ures of Haute Couture design world (1990∼1996) prevailed in Paris and Rome are investigated, and additionally the understanding of collection concept and design structure analysis are performed to show the various method-ology of creative design. Expression method and design method are the main criteria in analyzing, and the main results of this research are summarized as follows : 1. Most of designers in Paris and Rome ex-press the traditional costume style. Paris designers are focusing on the expression of design morphology through the abstraction and re-appearance without being confined to theme expression ; Rome designers are expressing their main ideas utilizing the fashion image as their theme in lieu of expressing the design morphology. 2. Most of the designers in Paris and Rome are using simple lines for their design. Paris designers prefer the plastic design based upon formal and symmetrical balance of informal and asymmetrical balance to the partial trans-formation design ; Rome designers are enjoy-ing rather the partial transformation using the detail and trimming than the plastic design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.860-869
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• 1996

This study is a research for an idea of costume containing clothing system in the early Practical Science School. The result are described as follows 1. Bak-Kyem, Han got a critical thought and attitude to seek for practical and rational as pect. Because that he studied an original text and wanted to find a basic meaning. And the result, he made a Pang-Ryeong Symeui. 2. Hwyeng-won, Rue contended that we had to model after chinese costume system to seek for a correct clothing system to harmonize with our culture and regulation. And he sought for the original courtesy because that his basic idea of reformation in the clothing system was an ancient system. But when there was a remedy, he suggested a new system. 3. Ik, lee considered a clothing system with a critical and investigated attitude. In the clothing system, he wanted to keep an original courtesy. But he asserted a constant reformation in evil tradition. He pursued a rationality not to be tied a formality, and he had also a flexibility to recognize real customs.