• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.112-132
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• 2015

Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.123-131
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• 1998

This research was investigated the improved changes of Korean traditional costume after introducing the western costumes in this society. For this study microfilms of Chosun llbo, the popular newspaper since 1920s, and costume magazines for 1950s and 1960s were examined. The periods of the improved changing of Korean traditional costume were divided by the characteristics of qualitative and quantitative changes. Those were two, such as passive period and active period of change. At passive period, the change was not far from the original from of traditional costume and it was limited to the waist of skirt, length and width. But at active period, there was distinctive change from the previous period. Active period is divided by 2 sub-period again. In 1950s, the concept of darts of western costume was accepted to Korean costume and there was the western clothing for everyday costume, the characteristics of Korean costume were added to the base of the western clothing. It was named 'Arirang dress'. Original Korean costume had worn for special occasions since late 1950s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

This paper investigated the costumes of young girl dancers in Yon wha dae moo(연화대무: Lotus Stage dance) which were documented on the Ak-hak-guae-bum(악학궤범: Protocol of music) and the Jin-yeon-eui-guae(진연의궤: Archives of Royal Feast). The fashion of the costumes can be changed into three phases, based mainly on the changes of Hap-rip(합립: silk hat), Dan-eui(단의: long jacket) and Sang(상: apron type skirt). In the first phase the costume consisted of Hap-rip, round neck-line Dan-eui and tiered skirt decorated with pleat and Yu-so(유소: decorated cords). In the second phase. it consisted of Hap-rip, v-shape neck-line Dan-eui and skirt without pleat. In the third phase, it consisted of Yeon-wha-gwan(연화관: Lotus shape cap), round neck-line Dan-eui of later era and skirt with pleat and Yu-so. Yon-wha-dae dance appears to be adopted from Ja-ji-mu( 자지무: chinese dance) that originated in West and Central Asia. In both dances. young girl dancers danced mainly jump and spin. The costume of round neck-line Dan-eui seems to have been affected by the fashion in Dang Dynasty when young girls loved to wear Dan-ryung(단령: male coat with round neckline). And it satisfied the need of mobility for the dance which was Performed mainly with jump.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.215-233
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• 1999

The Miaos have their own peculiar and luxurious transtional culture a they have experienced repeated fusion into and resistance againt the Han Race or the chinese in their long and old history. And the traditional culture of the Miaos is abundant and diverse in several respects. Because it has taken root in foundation of their simple and native environment. it is embracing abundant and diverse contents. They largely used as the theme of patterns factual materials such as natural objects easily accessible in the natural environment. those related to marratives reflective of ethnicity, animals and plants symbolic of auspicious omen, peace, happiness and good harrest with prosperity and abundance. And they not only crossornamented natural patterns and geometrical patterns by combining them but also geometric patterns alone. It can be seen that Miaos represented patterns with exaggerated formation, overlapping and modification and the comprehensive, fomation of natural forms, abstract formation etc. Seeing the ethnic costume of Miaos investigated in these several respects by the standard of contemporary beauty it is thought that it has the infinite possibility of being used in contemporary fashion design on account of the characteristic of almost perfect costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.309-320
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• 2011

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in media costume design. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for media costume design. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and media DVD, video, fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the external representation mimesis, the internal symbol mimesis and the multiful meta mimesis. In media costume, the representation mimesis included design historical point of view, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The internal mimesis included symbol of religion, character, riches, psychology and fear mimesis. The multiful meta mimesis included hybrid and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in media costume design fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.133-149
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• 2021

This study presents a new fashion wearable product, a classical music stage costume design, using an Arduino LilyPad that can control light-emitting diodes(LEDs) and a sound sensor that can set an environmental range of LED light. As a theoretical background, LED fashion design research and stage costume design research status were reviewed, and Arduino LilyPads, sensors, LEDs, and batteries required for LED stage costume production were investigated. Based on prior research, the LED stage costume design for the soprano stage was presented in a three-step process of design planning, development, and production, and an actual prototype was produced. This process produced meaningful information and materials for making clothes with the added function of a wearable computer. In particular, fashion designers or fashion majors can easily access the Arduino LillyPad and use not only LEDs, but other light emitting materials. It is expected that it will be used as a basic material for the use of the Arduino LillyPad that can develop new creations that have been utilized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.128-149
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• 2011

This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.53-67
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• 2019

This study investigated the effects of costume styling, color and texture on character expression in the movies "All About My Wife" and "Marriage Blue". As a study method, the main scenes were captured from the DVD image and the costumes of the main characters were analyzed to examine how the costumes express the personality change according to the story development of the characters. The characters in "All About My Wife" and "Marriage Blue" were studied to see how their personality changes as the story develops and how the costume supports the personality change of those characters. It was checked that costume contributes to effectively deliver the emotion of the characters to audience. In the movies, costume plays an important role in completing the character, and styling, color, and texture of the costume are one of the important means of expression. In a movie, costumes, styling, color, and texture contribute towards development of each character's character. And these elements act synergistically by acting simultaneously rather than independently, thus defining the image of the costume and playing a role in building characters. Movie directors persuade the audience by expressing their intentions in various ways. Among them, movie costume is one of the most effective expression tools. The styling, color, and texture of the clothes are practical and effective methodology that will create a character, so I hope that the field of film art will be researched extensively in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.41-53
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• 2004

The significant role of colors in fashion design is not enough to emphasize in terms of one of the important design elements and its influences on the behaviors of the people. The purpose of this research is to examine the traditional Chinese colors and its ways of color combinations to appreciate the Chinese culture and its people. The Chinese traditional costume of Ching Dynasty were investigated through historic records, historic nobles, costume accessories and so on. The results of the study were summarized as follows： (1) The Blue was the most favoured color for clothing among men and women during Ching dynasty and various blues in terms of hue, value and intensities were used. (2) The bright Yellow which had been a symbol of Emperor were prohibited being used among people. Though, the late period of Dynasty, the regulation became not to strict and various shades of yellow families were adapted among People. (3) The Red which had been preferred during Ming Dynasty were constantly favoured for the formal wears of auspicious events such as weddings. (4) Dark color groups were loved for the clothing which were used as a ground colors against the flamboyant patterns revealing strong visual effects through value contrast or primary color combinations. (5) The White had a symbol of mourning and there were some intentions to adopt pale color groups such as mint, jade, gray, moon whit,. silver white to make up for white. (6) Contrast color combinations were one of the basic ways of color combination in Chinese traditional costume. Therefore Chinese color combinations has a strong visual effect and easy to draw attention of people by the contrast of the hue, value or intensity of color. (7) Multi-color combinations were another characteristics of Chinese costume in the formal wears which bears many surface designs. The surface decorated with full of motifs, were appreciated by the people expressing their longings and hopes through the auspicious meanings of patterns and striking visual effects of color combinations.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.