• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1510-1519
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• 2007

This comparative study analyzes and compares tight skirt sewing methods which are found in the clothing configuration reference text books available in contemporary universities and which are used in commercially-available domestic consumer products. The study samples included 15 text books and 12 tight skirt consumer products of different brands on sale at three department stores in Seoul each of which had a belt, a back-centered zipper, and back double slits. The findings of the study are summarized as follows: First, text books mainly show very basic sewing methods of using zippers on both sides of the straight-lined waist belt. This indicates that it is necessary for such methods to be complemented so that they cover a recent variety of designs, materials, and sewing machines. For consumer products, the main sewing method is to use a curved waist belt and a console zipper in silhouette running across half the hipbone. Second, consumer products employ three different types of cutting and sewing methods for putting an inseam on the center of the back slit part: to leave the whole inseam hemmed in the back center, to cut the left side of the inseam to the upper part of the back slit, and to cut the inseam to both the upper parts of the back slit. However, a method shown in most of the sampled text books is to cut the inseam of the back center to both the upper parts of the back slit. Third, the way of finishing a bottom edge hem in the text books is to do slip-stitch, herringbone stitch, and slinting hemming, in order after doing over-lock stitch, or to cut the hem on the bias and then slip-stitch, while for the consumer products the most frequently used sewing method is to finish the bottom edge hem by doing secoui-stitch. Finally, while in the text books the method of stitching darts and tucks is used for lining, the main lining method used in consumer products is to make tucks only. Also in the way of stitching the side seams of lining or the seams of the back center, there is a difference between the two sample groups of text books and the consumer products: while the former suggests using both open seams and over-lock stitch, the latter is found to finish the seams using an over-lock stitch only.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.35-49
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• 2016

Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.708-725
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• 2013

In the 2010s, skinny jeans were trendy, and they became a must-have for young women. The styles, clothing pressure and buying behavior of skinny jeans have been studied, but the patternmaking of skinny jeans has not been researched yet. To analyze skinny jeans patterns, we grouped skinny jeans into nine brands. They were sorted into three groups: special jeans brand, trendy jeans brand, and SPA brand. This study compared skinny jeans' sizing systems, product dimensions and pattern measurements in three brand groups. The appearance and fit of skinny jeans were evaluated by random groups of people in their 20s and 30s. The sizing systems for skinny jeans were different with KS K0051, and they were shown waist girth in inches. The waist and hip circumferences were different among brand groups. In product dimensions, trendy jeans brands had a shorter crotch length, a lower crotch depth, a narrower back crotch width, and a longer inseam than the others. The measurements of skinny jeans flat patterns were significantly different in as below; front crotch depth, front crotch height, front crotch length, back crotch extension, gap between back and front crotch depth, back crotch height, back crotch length, and center back angle. In the sensory survey results, trendy jeans brands were evaluated well in the fit of the waist line, hip line, crotch line, midthigh line, outseam, inseam, side waist line, crotch length and overall fit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.965-978
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• 2014

To determine the parameters to be considered when designing lower-body apparel, we analyzed the lower-body figures of adult women in their early 20s from Shanghai, China, using 3-dimensional whole body scanner. Thirty-nine lower-body-related measurements were used to analyze the figures of 210 Chinese women. Obesity and height of the lower body, length from waist to crotch, shape of abdomen, and leg bone length were analyzed. Factor analysis was performed and the results were classified into three clusters. The first cluster describes the obesity of the lower body, the second denotes small hip measurement, and the third describes slim and long legs. This is the first study to quantify figure analysis of the lower body of Chinese women using 3-dimensional body measurements. The findings of this study will provide concrete information regarding crotch width, crotch length, inseam, outseam, waist slope, etc., for designing trouser patterns for Chinese adult women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.609-618
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretch pants and to compare and analyze the pattern making method of pants made of the stretch and non-stretch fabric to develop functional and good looking stretch pants. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study are as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers showed that pants were estimated as the most uncomfortable item among the stretch clothes and when they put the stretch pants on, the most uncomfortable parts of out-shell were the hip girth and rise. Secondly, the result of pattern making method of the pants was as follows. The ease of the stretch pants pattern was 0cm in the waist girth and -1 to -1.5cm in the hip girth more than non-stretch pants. The ease in crotch, inseam and outseam length was 0cm for both.

• Journal of Sensor Science and Technology
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.242-248
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• 2018

Bicycle fittings have been used to ride bicycles comfortably while minimizing non-traumatic injuries. To analyze the cause of non-traumatic injuries, it is necessary to measure the body weight distribution in various biking positions. In this study, a weight distribution measurement system was implemented by installing five weighable devices on the saddle, both pedals, and both handle grips of a bicycle. To measure the body weight applied through the saddle, the structure of a commercial seat post was modified and a load cell was installed inside. Weighable pedals and handle grips were designed using a 3D modeling program and fabricated by employing a 3D printer. The body weight distribution for ten bicycle riders was measured when the two pedals were aligned horizontally and vertically. Experimental results showed that the body weight distribution varied significantly depending on human body shape, even after the bicycle fitting was completed. The difference between the body weight measured by the proposed system and a commercial scale was less than 3 %.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.729-740
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• 2009

This study is to research on the rate of expansion or contraction according to movement of the lower body of the man their twenties using Rapid Form software. And aim of this study is to get information of ease allowance in developing slacks pattern using 3D body surface scan data through comparison with existing slacks patterns. Considering on the contraction and expansion according to movement, it need to set the more ease allowance in hip circumference than waist circumference, and the more ease allowance in back hip width than front hip width in slacks. In crotch length, the length of front crotch is revealed contraction but the length of back crotch is revealed expansion. It is desirable lowering front waist line and raising back waist line to possess ease allowance in back crotch area. The length of side seam is revealed a little expansion but the length of inseam is showed a great expansion. To develop slacks pattern of scientific approach using 3D body surface scan data, it need to analysis the rate of expansion and contraction of the lower body based on the movement, shear deformation, slip in fabrics and skin, or in fabrics and fabrics, and slip down from waist line.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.562-577
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• 2003

The object of my research is to inquiry into the immediate constituent and techniques of underwear after looking into basic theory of underwear, techniques by materials classified according to the matter of elasticity, and studying flat pattern and draping which are basis of corset and brassiere structure focusing on corsetry among underwears and production techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. To make the flat pattern of corset and brassiere fit to the body tightly, design dart two times without any space and draw smaller than the body. To support the breast sufficiently, move the side seam 1¼″ to the front panel and the seam should pass the apex in all occasions. For draping, dart should be added into short of elasticity materials in the past but dart is no use these days since the material today is extremely elastic. It is possible now to show the body line with only the seam or a pattern. In a case of elastic material, set the elastic direction to the grain line and have a draping as pulling from the center to the out side. As production technic, for an hem, put a zigzag stitch in elastic materials with a 10-20% short elastic band, pulling the band. Then make 3/16″-1/4″ short inseam.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.141-157
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• 2013

In this study, we analyzed the figure type and lower-body size of Shanghai and Hong Kong adult women in their early twenties using the data obtained from 3D whole body scanners. We also provided concrete information related to women's lower bodies, in terms of crotch width, crotch length, inseam, outseam, slope of waist, etc., among women in Shanghai and Hong Kong. The result may be useful to the Chinese apparel industry when designing trouser pants for adult women. According to the results of the factor analysis for categorizing the body shape of the lower half, 5 factors were obtained: obesity of the lower half factor, height of the lower half factor, length from waist to the crotch factor, factor related to legs, and shape of the abdomen factor. After performing a cluster analysis according to the factor analysis, three clusters were set: Cluster 1 was represented as the lower half growth type, which has a high value in height of the lower half factor and grows in the abdomen part. Cluster 2 was represented as thin legs type, which has a low value in most part compared to the length of leg bones and factors about legs that have high value. Cluster 3 was represented as the obesity type having a high value in the obesity of the lower half factor. Overall, thin legs type achieved a high rate in Shanghai adult women and obesity type received a high rate in adult women living in Hong Kong.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.55-62
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women's jackets from the end of the 19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns. The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women's costume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis of the directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern were measured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women's jackets in the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s' sleeves. The sleeves of the 1890s' women's jackets were 6-11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s' jackets. The under-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s' sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s' sleeve. The outseam angle of the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s' sleeve pattern. The elbow curve of the women's jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseam angle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women's jacket sleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.