• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.253-273
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• 1998

The culture reflects the ideology of a particular period in time and such values change according to the needs and requests of that time which eventually becomes an important factorin forming the exterior. The clothing is part of a way that composes and expresses the inherent substance of society and culture. Also, the clothing itself manifests the artistic values and behavior of mankind as an external structure maintaining its place as a big part in culture. The purpose of this study are to elucidat the concept of naturalism, which is discussed in many facets in the modern era; I studied the concept as well as the history of naturalism in order to manifest the meaning of clothing in the context of culture and I explained the concept in terms of the modern era. On such ground, I explained the naturalism expressed through clothing and characterized the exter-nal form of clothing. Also, in order to know the stream of naturalism in the modern context, I referred to the Vogue magazine of the 90s, using Delong's ABC method. Naturalism, in the context of modern fashion is a way to express the nostalgia of nature's vi-ability and purity of ecology apart from the artificial and structural appearance that resulted form scientific enhancement and hence, the ecological crisis. Naturalism pursues the soft- ness and comfort of the natural silhouette, color and material of the human body and it can be said that naturalism emphasizes the mix-ture of three substances : human, nature and clothing. The naturalism can be characterized by the factors expressed in clothing as follows. First, the naturalism shown in the form it-self draws the beauty of the bodyline without any reduction nor exaggeration. Without any distorttion of the human bodyline it shown the curve as one moves along, using the soft material. Second, the naturalism shown in color most-ly uses the natural tone with added white color and other color low in intensity and value like the receded colors of the earth that could be compared to the beauty of ecru. Third, the naturalism shown in the material is thin, light and soft in texture. In order to bring out the most natural curve of the human body, the natural fiber becomes the main material, sometimes, using crude materials. Due to the lindustrial improvement, softness and elasticity is added to the natural fibers giving them an important role as materials. Fourth, the naturalism shown in textile depicts the real natural objects in life. According to my study, the personality of naturalism in modern clothing was shown to be most strong in material and then in the order of form, texture and textile. The material com-posed of the natural silhouette and natural fibers were used to make soft color. In form, Paul Poiret made appearance expressing the natural beauty of the human body without the corset ; it continued with the inner lining making the clothing hard but in the 90s, lining-less, extremely exposed clothes and knit wear is used to emphasize the natural beauty of the body. In color and textile, the tendency spok-en above is not as strong but in color, instead of high intensity or value, the usage of neutral colors with added white color or ecru color, ear-th tone is increasing. In textile, the usage of flowers as natural material is seen frequently. As a whole, naturalistic trend in the 90s is increasing and the modern fashion is breaking out from the artificial and architectural form and conforming to a form that can realize the natural beauty of the human body. And the natural color and textile that conforms to such ideas are being used to pursue the human oriented trend that has appeared due to the increase in usage of soft natural fiber. Nowadays, the idea of returning to nature, defying the artificiality, desiring the leisure and psychological abundance that can be explained as naturalistic way of thinking is necessitated in this modern era as long as humans coexist with nature, this tendency will continue in clothing.

• 미래기술융합논문지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.25-31
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• 2024

최근 정보통신 기술로 인해 산업화되고 발달됨에 있어, 현대사회의 현대 여성들은 수많은 스트레스로 육체적, 정신적 건강에 노출되어 있다. 대중적으로 발생하는 염증들은 유산균이 감소되거나 잦은 항생제 복용 및 면역력 저하의 원인이 대표적이다. 도움이 되며 반영되는 제품 개발이 필요하다. 현재 시중에 소개되고 있는 이너케어젤은 유익균을 증가시키고 건강한 y존을 유지할수 있다. 이너 젤 속에는 하이드로젤 성분이 함유되어있다. 90%가 물로 이루어져 있고 그 외에 성분은 물을 지지하는 지지체로서의 역할을 수행하며, 고분자 사슬간의 가교결합을 통해 형성된다. HEC(hydroxyethyl cellulose)는 셀룰로오스의 하이드록시에칠에 텔이다. 사용목적은 결합제, 유화안정제, 점도증가제(수성), 피막형성제 역할을 한다. CA (crosslinker)는 가교제이며, 결합시켜주는 역할을 한다. 미용분야의 하이드로젤은 얇은 피막형성으로 피부를 부드럽게 감싸주는 피막형성제 역할을 하고, 다른 원료들이 분리되지 않도록 도움을 주는 유화안정제 역할을 한다. 또한, 화장품에 점성을 높여 점도를 개선시키는 점증제 역할을 한다. 또한, 바이오 분야에서는 포도당 감시, 간호관리, 세포이식 및 상처 치료에도 사용되어지고 있다. 현재로서는 기능성 하이드로젤을 이용한 제품은 나오지 않은 것으로 파악되어 있어 본 연구에서는 기능성 하이드로젤 항균성을 알아보기 위해 Y존 케어 하이드로젤 솔루션 제조를 수행하였으며 새로운 솔루션 개발을 목적으로 한다. 결과적으로 Y존에 적절한 Ph를 맞추었음을 확인하였고, PDB배지에 칸디다 알비칸균 배양 후 Y존 케어 하이드로젤솔루션 세가지 제품 모두 0.5~1.0mm의 항균력 효과를 보았다.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.60-69
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• 2013

Timber is an eco-friendly material that is suitable for low carbon and green growth, and recently, studies on utilization and manufacture of timber are increasing. Thus, we need a stable supply of wood working materials for the formative element and widespread function of timber. It is necessary to develop the use of timber because it enhances the added value of this material by making the most of it. In this way, skin-timber is an appropriate material for life articles because skin-timber has a variety of functions including the ability for storage use, the beauty of structure, the ability to maintain heat and insulation, and the capability to control humidity. In this study, I developed household items using skin-timbers that are made up of circular columns and square columns of pine, larch, and yellow popular. The circular and square columns have an inner hole that is approximately 90% of the external structure's width. I intended for the concept of these designs to display creativity considering functionality and productivity. These items are life articles and furniture for modern people. They are eco-friendly products that are varnished with traditional lacquer and natural oil. According to the result of this study, skin-timbers are made of domestic pine, larch, and yellow popular and are resource of furniture, household items, and woodcraft. I believe skin-timber is not only a useful material for processability and design applicability, but it also has the capability to be a multifunctional and high value-added material. Also, if the standards, such as cortex thickness, outside diameter, and length, of skin-timber are producted diversely, I believe skin-timber can be have more the possibility of industrial products' development.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2017

Throughout the rich human history, patterns have developed as a symbolic sign and representation of the inner psychology of human beings. Thanks to its intrinsic beauty and emotional richness, the flower has been utilized as a one of the major materials for patterns used in everyday life and art. As a product of nature, floral patterns have played a key role in fashion trends as a Surface Design with other elements of fashion design such as silhouette, fabric and color. Therefore, this research sought to identify the trends of floral patterns of women's garments that appeared at the four major global fashion collections (Paris, Milano, New York and London), and to analyze how importantly the fashion magazines' prediction were applied in the actual collections. Furthermore, the research aimed to suggest possible methods to utilize trend magazines for collections in the future. As a main research method, the authors investigated professional fashion literature and internet websites to extract a total of 4,681 items presented by sixteen designers who participated in the four major global fashion collections each time during the period of the 2012 S/S~2017 S/S seasons. First View Korea and Samsung Design Net were used as major sources for the pattern extraction and analysis. According to the analysis, floral patterns account for 31%(1,454 items) among the total number of patterns appearing in the four major global fashion collections(4,681 items). For the reflection ratio, Samsung Design Net recorded a 4% higher ratio(52%) than First View Korea(48%). Based on the data and analysis of this research, the authors expect that floral patterns in various forms will be continuously presented in fashion collections, and conclude that utilizing fashion magazines is highly useful due to their appropriate predictions.

• 감성과학
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2004

본 연구는 동서양 문물 이미지 사진에 대한 여대생의 선호도와 패션잡지에서 의류광고 사진에 등장한 모델의 동서양 국적에 따른 소비자의 긍정적/부정적 인식 정도의 영향을 조사하고자 하였다. 100명의 여학생이 설문에 응답해 주었으며 20개 사진이 자극물로 제시되었다. 자극물은 주택, 실내, 식품, 미인도, 음료수로 하고, 패션 광고사진으로는 남성복 정장, 여성복 정장, 여성복캐주얼, 여성복 속옷, 여성손목시계 등으로 하여 동서양 모델 사진을 각 1점씩 선택하였다. 여대생들은 간식과 미인도에서는 서양이미지보다 동양이미지를 선호하였으나, 패션잡지의 의류광고 사진의 광고에는 모든 경우에서 서양모델이 사용된 경우에 긍정적인 인식정도를 나타냈다. 이러한 사실로서 여대생의 서양이미지에 대한 인식은 긍정적이며 이것은 의류제품 브랜드의 소비자 선호도에 영향을 미칠 것을 추측할 수 있었다.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.367-373
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• 2012

In this study, physio-chemical, mechanical, and sensory characteristics of Tofu containing 0, 0.5, 1.0, and 2.0% Adenophora remotiflora powder were examined. In addition, we examined the potential of utilizing Adenophora remotiflora powder as a functional food material by estimating total phenol contents, electron-donating abilities, and hydroxyl radical scavenging activities of the hot water and ethanol extracts of Adenophora remotiflora powder in the range from 0~2.0%. The total phenol content of the ethanol extracts of Adenophora remotiflora powder was $487.93{\mu}g/mL$ while the that of the water extract of Adenophora remotiflora powder was $403.70{\mu}/mL$. The electron-donating abilities of the ethanol and water extracts of Adenophora remotiflora powder were 75.37 and 86.10%, respectively. The hydroxyl radical scavenging activities of the ethanol and water extracts of Adenophora remotiflora powder were 65.50 and 66.22%, respectively. We also evaluated the quality characteristics of Tofu containing Adenophora remotiflora powder. In the case of color values, as the level of Adenophora remotiflora powder increased, the values of L (lightness) and a (redness) decreased, whereas that of b (yellowness) increased. In the case of mechanical properties, as the level of Adenophora remotiflora powder increased, hardness, gumminess, and chewiness values increased (p<0.05), whereas springiness and cohesiveness values decreased (p<0.05). In the case of sensory evaluation, MPT1.0 scored significantly higher in color, flavor, tenderness, texture, and overall quality. To sum up, Tofu containing 1% Adenophora remotiflora powder showed the highest overall preference.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.51-72
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• 1998

Futurists objected the existent style, that is the conventional fashion, and took part in these disciplines of fashion to make clothes the instruments being able to represent the individuality. Giacomo Balla and fortunato Depero, pain-ters who in 1915 were to work with Diaghilev's company, were the first to see clothing as a dynamic interfaced between th body and the atmosphere, between physical gestures and the urban context, which could be translated into encounters between forms and colours, volumes and architecture. For them, clothing began to exist as an object and an event, something to be removed from a mainly static conception and made mobile, active. The interaction between movement and clothing was based on the relativity of perception : the appearance and disappearance of the body produced points without dimension or duration which served, as Balla wrote in the Futurist Mnaifesto of Men's Clothing to“renew incessantly the enjoyment and impetuous movement of the body”. The historical achievement in the effort for the reformation of Futurist, Art to Wear. First, for Futurist, clothing is removed from a static conception and focused on dynamics. Second, Balla used asymmetry in men's clothing. Moreover he supposed dynamic men's clothes by using optical intersection. Third, the after image of Chronophotograph represented rapidity. This rhythmic expression is the fore-runner in Optical and Kinetic Art of Visual Art. Fourth, Futurist emphasized flexibility in fashion. They aimed to create‘Clothing Machines’whose parts would interact to aceelerate the real and virtual, inner and outer movement of the human being. Fifth, the variety and short life of cutting skills and colors are focused and‘Fast Substance’in fashion is admitted by Futurists. Futurist concern with clothing was not lim-ited its appearance in terms of cut and colour. What important was also the way it appeared and disappeared according to fashion. It was a“fast substance”, able to reflect rapid, sudden changes of social and aesthetic taste. To reach to the aim of internationalization, Gesamtkunstwerk in our Art to Wear, it is extremely meaningful to examine art fashion which is created under the conception of Gesamtkunstwerk production of avang garde artist in the early 20th century and look at formative conscious of truth, goodess and beauty synthetically which they faced on their works of art.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.15-34
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• 2006

Knit wear was industrialized, diversified, specialized and was made into high-class and it is including knitted cloth and small product for fashion as well as cardigan, sweater, and jacket etc. unlike past recognition only with underwear and inner wear. To consider elasticity to be the best strength of knit wear, middle-aged women that form change is serious are wearing knit wear as clothes for going out, and this may be regarded as clothes action to be conscious of form than vogue. Thus, in this study, this researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women. This researcher tried to develop the design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women, after examining the theoretical background of knit wear, the bodily and mental feature of middle-aged women. Internal and external knit wear brand that middle-aged women prefer as the scheme for solving the problematic form of middle-aged women with knit wear. As the result first, to see the present situation of inland production enterprise of knit wear, almost all the brand companies are concentrating energies on widening age class. Second, middle-aged women become far off from the form which is regarded ideal form in modern society. Third, result that this researcher examined the brand of knit wear of middle-aged women is as follows : MORADO, Cartknit, Escalier. And, in foreign knit wear brand, ST John, Missoni, ESCADA. Fourth, as the result that this researcher did work manufacture for the supplement of form defect of middle-aged women, it has practical and active side, and off-time has high-class and elegant refined beauty.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.165-181
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• 2012

Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.