• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.159-171
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• 2002

Today, many people seek for their own personal character which is distinguished from another people and they utilize fashion coordination as the was of expression their own image. In addition, interest in electronic commerce and cuber shopping mall on the internet is increasing. For this reason, visual and interesting virtual fashion coordination system is needed. The purpose of this study is to propose possibility of fashion coordination by virtual 3D model. For this study, 1. We make a 3D standard body model by automatic generation. 2. We make 3D fashion item (sleeveless top and flare skirt) by automatic generation. 3. We combine 3D body model with fashion item by special point, grouping and gap being between body and clothes. 4. We make textile palettes and textile DB for texture mapping and rendering. As a effect of this study, 1. It can give the chance to coordinate clothes suitable for their own character and bodyshape on the cuber space more speedily and variously. 2. It can help fashion internet shopping mall company can save a time, expenses and tries to advertise their new products, offer service for customers and lead customers to purchasing. 3. It can accumulate a database of design and textile for using by fashion and textile industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 2019

The mass production after the industrialisation and the fast changing fashion cycles in today's world resulted in buying clothes and home textiles more than we need and discarding them before they complete their life cycles. This causes vast amounts of textile waste that creates environmental issues. Upcycling is the creative process of transforming clothing and textile waste by reusing deadstock or used fabric to create new garments and products. It holds importance in terms of sustainability, reducing waste and environmental pollution. During the process of upcycling, certainly the creativity and innovation are the key words because to reuse a product to a better value needs a creative mind, aesthetic consciousness, innovative look and knowledge and it is quite different from a normal design procedure. There is a delicate level of aesthetics which carries the reused materials to a higher value. The handling of the materials, knowing how to manipulate the waste material, the techniques available to apply to surfaces, the concept of two and three dimension on textiles and clothing, contributions of other branches of art such as sculpture and painting all help the designer to reach a higher aesthetic value in the upcycled product in this process. In the study; it was aimed to raise awareness, to attract attention to sustainable fashion and also to contribute to sustainable development as an upcycling design project realized with students in textile and fashion design education taken as an example.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.890-911
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• 2020

This study proposed a base framework for creating sustainable designs with textile production waste and unused neckties with the "design thinking" approach, which is an iterative process. It aimed to set an example of how fashion designers can plan and manage their clothing design processes in a more sustainable way by recycling textile production scraps and unused neckties into unique clothing pieces with the upcycling method. Unused neckties and upholstery scraps were turned into skirts, blouses, and dresses by using creative techniques in line with current fashion trends. In addition, the five-stage iterative design process followed was explained, and the way in which the waste textile materials gained value by being converted into unique garments was discussed in terms of the user and the designer. Through the study, it was observed that the smallest amount of textile waste can be transformed into upcycled clothing via the iterative process, and original, value-added products enjoyed by consumers can be created. In addition, it was observed that the design thinking approach improves the understanding of the context of the problem, creativity in the generation of insights and solutions, skills to materialize those solutions through iterative prototyping, and the ability to combine these factors. Promising ideas to help designers develop recycling strategies were also provided.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.48-68
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• 2024

In recent years, with the international spread of traditional Chinese culture, traditional auspicious patterns have been used idely in modern textile design. In particular, a bat pattern has the same pronunciation as 'fu' in Chinese. It symbolizes good luck and longevity. It has auspicious meanings such as happiness, prosperity, wealth, longevity, and good luck. This study aimed to explore how cultural elements could be utilized in modern textile design by incorporating the traditional Chinese bat pattern into scarf design. Through literature research and case analysis, we aimed to understand the historical background and design characteristics of the bat pattern and develop it into a textile design suitable for modern scarf design to promote modern reinterpretation of traditional culture and cultural integration. From a design perspective, the shape of the bat pattern was analyzed to derive five main shapes and characteristics (symmetry, verticality, repetition, totality, and relativity). Based on this, 10 patterns were created by combining them with popular styles of modern scarf patterns. In addition, five product designs were completed considering 23/24 Pantone trend colors, 24spring/summer fashion trend colors, and silk scarf pattern characteristics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.41-53
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper was to figure out the status quo of development of textiles in fashion industry by analyzing through in-depth interview with domestic women's wear converters on the process of textile planning. Professionals in top3 domestic women's wear converters were selected and interviewed in-depth on actual work process of textile development. The result of the research is as follows. First, the interviewed converters were having transactions with entire domestic target market of women's clothing and also exporting to China. Second, production of textile was mostly domestic, with some from China. Third, the number of textile development was 20 - 50 items per season accordingly to size of converter, and the number was larger if taking into account the sourcing development, the special finished fabric development and the print design development. Fourth, for methods to gather information, converters got ideas through overseas exhibitions, overseas color swatch books, fashion-related web sites and market research. Fifth, when setting up direction of textiles, it was investigated that they had motif from in-trend material or on previous season's best-selling material. Sixth, textile planning map did not start from early in season but prefers in-progress board map. Seventh, ways for many method types for textile planning were found depending on sales type of converter and textile production price.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.479-488
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to re-interpret the traditional patterns in modern point of view and connect them to the apparel textile design to use them widely in our real life. For this, a documentary research on the traditional patterns and arabesque patterns was made first, and then, through the manual and photoshop workings, two apparel textile designs were suggested. As a result, the followings were acquired: First, the arabesque pattern, which is a traditional pattern of Korea, has a continuous life power and a natural formative characteristics. In its pattern, there is an abundant possibility of change. So, it has a wide usability regardless of time and space. As the symbolic image of the arabesque pattern is connected with the instinctive beauty sense of human beings, it has shown the more adhesive affinity that any other materials. Second, two kinds of textile design were suggested. The motif of work 1, "Fragrance of Woman," was the richness and the harmony, and so a lotus arabesque pattern was selected to present its concept, "Classic Elegance." The expression technique was to use a manual work and cloths to make it a voluminous one. The motif of work 2, "Green Field" was to show the clean beauty with a lotus arabesque pattern. Its concept was the "Natural Elegance," and the expression technique was to repeat the motif by using the Adobe Photoshop to complete the work.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.59-63
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• 2003

This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.55-61
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• 2017

A non-fluorinated polystearyl methacrylate water repellent was synthesized by emulsion polymerization. The number and weight averaged molecular weights were obtained at around 137,277 and 237,754g/mole. The melting point was observed at $32^{\circ}C$. The contact angle of water droplet on fabrics treated with the water repellent was $140{\sim}145^{\circ}$ for cotton and polyester, and $125{\sim}130^{\circ}$ for wool and nylon. Since the critical surface tension was estimated at 20.7mN/m, even though relatively not so strong as fluorinated water repellent, it is considered to be used as a good water repellent practically.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.331-342
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• 2018

This paper enables stakeholders involved in textile industry to gain an overview of standards used for care labelling and help establish a common standard that could be used as a universal standard. This study provides a comprehensive and detailed analytical study of care labelling standards adopted by common countries in the textile market. It was found that the development of a universal system for care labeling could enhance the trade of textile articles and assist consumers in caring for textile articles. Universal care label systems could be characterized by two main features of inclusiveness and comprehensiveness. The range of instructions and symbols presented were found different among standards. Insignificant differences in symbols' shapes were found between standards for bleaching, ironing and professional cleaning. The washing process had the widest variety of instructions; in addition, options were provided by stated standards. Different meanings were found for similar shapes in some tumble drying symbols. The study findings show the importance of enhancing text based standards or the development of an understandable format across as many cultures as possible. The unification of symbols and meanings may be needed to provide global consumers consistent guidance. The efficiency of a detailed standard that provides and covers a wide range of instructions is an important aspect. The visibility and practicality of offering variable options/symbols in one standard is an important aspect for developing a universal care label system.