• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.175-188
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• 2010

This study suggests a new paradigm of fashion merchandising as an environmental change of the fashion industry. The study has the pattern of a literature study and it is analyzed through journals, professional books, fashion magazines, and newspapers. Examined are the environmental changes of the fashion industry, the condition, and problems of the merchandising process that is executed currently, as well as an examination of the concept of fashion merchandising, Concepts and changes for new fashion merchandising strategies are suggested that are helpful for academics and fashion companies. This paper defines the concept of new fashion merchandising as the integrated management activity of planning, development, and selling fashion products to create a profit for the company with the satisfaction of the target customers. This study proposes the pursuance of integrated merchandising, the change of product planning and product development, and the strengthening of store-centered retail merchandising in order to change the direction of fashion merchandising.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.30-39
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• 2008

This research investigated the change of Japanese Street Fashion after the Second World War. The change were categorized into 5 terms from the late 1940s to 2000s. The first term was from the late 1940s to 1950s, when street fashion was born. The second term was from the 1960s to 1970s and counter culture of street fashion appeared. The third term was the 1980s, during which street fashion fluctuated. The forth term was the 1990s, a period of chaos in street fashion. The fifth term was after 2000 and it was a retroaction term of street fashion. Japanese street fashion was influenced by fashion magazines in those days. Various street fashions in Japan based on special society and cultural situation accomplished Japanese basic fashion quality and influenced world fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.39-49
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to characterize the effect of Net fashion value regarding to the factors of purchase-decision at internet shopping mall and the preference for fashion design. The subjects for this sample survey, were junior high school and university students who had dwelled at pusan and ulsan in south korea. This study had 824 samples of each aged from 13 to 24 who had purchasing ability of fashion apparels at the interned shopping mal1. The sampling data in this survey was analyzed by frequency analysis, factor analysis, T-test, LSD-test, MANOVA and ANOVA of SPSS WIN package. The results of this study was as follows; 1. It was proved that advertising, pursuit of services and products, pursuit of information were considered first from Net generations fashion value. Next things were perception of danger and pursuit of convenience. It was proved that they considered it important A/S, recall, exchange and post management. 2. It was proved that there was difference at the preference for fashion design of according to Net generations fashion value. Color was considered to be the most important one. 3. Men had higher political value than women and 1318 teenagers had higher fashion value than semi-adult. Under high school educational course Net generation had more theoretical value than above university educational course Net generation did. Also, with the factor of average monthly income, political value was considered to be the most important. People whose monthly expenditure on purchase was above 50,000 won had higher social value than people whose expenditure was under 50,000 won but under 50,000 won had higher political value than above 50,000 won did.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.1-20
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• 2024

The aim of this study was to analyze contemporary sociocultural phenomena and values through characteristics of augmented reality (AR) digital fashion design. The research method included a literature review on the metaverse and augmented reality, combined with a case study using both quantitative analysis through big data text mining and qualitative analysis through constant comparison. Data analysis was conducted using Python-based open-source tools: First, 6,725 data entries were collected from AR digital fashion platforms and brands identified in articles from Vogue and Vogue Business containing keywords of 'augmented reality' and 'digital fashion. Second, text preprocessing involved stop word removal, tokenization, and POS-tagging of nouns and adjectives using the NLTK library. Third, top 50 keywords were extracted through term frequency (TF) and TF-IDF analysis, with results visualized using a word cloud. Fourth, characteristics of products' external design and internal concepts that contained top keywords were classified, with their value examined through repeated comparison. Results indicate that AR digital fashion design has the following characteristics. First, it embodies surreal fantasy through designs that mimic natural biological patterns using 3D scanning and modeling technology. Second, it presents a trans-boundary aspect by utilizing the fluidity of body and space to challenge vertical and discriminatory social structures. Third, it imagines a new future transcending traditional sociocultural concepts by expanding perceptions of space and time based on advanced technological aesthetics. Fourth, it contributes to sustainability by exploring alternatives for the fashion industry in response to climate change and ecological concerns.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.115-128
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to systematize various clothing production methods that domestic fashion brands are utilizing to produce fashion products, and to propose effective clothing production methods according to the characteristics. The research methods are contents analysis method of the literatures, articles, reports, and interviewing method of the practitioners who are in charge of the production of fashion. First, the clothing production methods of the domestic fashion brands are categorized as follows. It is divided into a fashion brand management method and a promotion company entrustment method based on who carries out the clothing production and management. The fashion brand management method is subdivided into the 'rental-production', 'CMT', and 'self-production' methods. All three methods are performed at domestic and global sourcing, but the CMT method is more utilized at the global sourcing. The promotion company entrustment method is subdivided into the 'full consignment production method', the 'CMT method involving promotion company', and 'direct buying method by promotion company'. All methods are performed at domestic and global sourcing. Second, the results of reviewing effective clothing production methods, according to characteristics are as follows. If fashion brands control the production and management, they use all three fashion brand management methods. The fashion brands use the promotion company entrustment method when they wants to offer special products, or the number of items is large, or the production management is difficult, or the manpower and equipment size is reduced. The domestic sourcing is utilized by fashion brands and promotion companies when production management is required for high quality apparel production, in case of trendy and complex designs, spot production, and in small quantity production. The global sourcing is utilized by fashion brands and promotion companies when it comes to lowering the production cost, fashion brands preferred the mass production of apparel with design that can be pre-planned.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.4
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• pp.131-152
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze modern fashion culture in the 20th century through changes in transmedia in order to better understand characteristics of fashion contents. The study also strived to identify the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion and media by exploring the cultural code, and use it to establish an integrated view. The subjects and the method of the study are as follows. First, the study analyzed the development of transmedia and fashion culture since the 20th century. Second, it identified the transitional characteristics of transmedia. Third, the study analyzed the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion culture by using the characteristics of mediation, which appeared with the transitional characteristics of transmedia. The study results are as follows. First, the types of remediation are 'borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Refashion,' and 'Absorb.' In old and new media, each type can be aesthetically experienced in 'transparency,' opaqueness,' 'Hypermediacy,' and 'Immediacy.' Second, fashion culture can undergo a transformation from its original form to a second and a third iteration, and this process allows for possibility of an expansion of multiple plots and well-rounded character settings. This opens up the possibility for fashion consumer participation, and signifies a transition into an environment where expansion of time and space is possible. The third finding is the non-mediation of fashion objects. The mediating relationship between clothes and media is directly connected to the development of new media. The immersion of new media by fashion consumers has the characteristics of 'transparency'/'Non-mediation,' and the reinterpretation and reproduction of original fashion styles have the characteristics of 'opaqueness'/'Hyper-mediation.' Fourth, fashion culture has data variability. Through 'Borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Remodeling,' and 'Absorption,' the cultural hierarchy of reproduced fashion forms a multi-layered integrated network. Mediation code, which repurposes fashion culture contents, also creates new media fashion through transmedia.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.723-730
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to speculate on the history and the meaning of so-called "princess fashion" based on the feminist's viewpoint. While many designers in Korean fashion world have fostered the trend of princess fashion, relatively little insight has been developed regarding its socio-cultural meanings. For this problem, the researcher traced the historical background and the development of the princess fashion in both the western and the Korean fashion world. As a case of the princess fashion study, Andre Kim(a renowned Korean designer)'s collection was selected and analyzed since he has often been a central figure for the princess fashion trends in Korea. Here the operational definition of the princess fashion is the lavish dresses designed based on the western court dress styles. As a result, the researcher found that the princess fashion was originated from the eighteenth century in France. In the nineteenth century, male designers took over the role to make extravagant dresses such as empire and crinoline dresses which became the prototypes for the princess fashion. In Korea, the western court dress style was introduced at the end of the nineteenth century and it became a uniform of prostitutes during the Korean War. By analyzing Andre Kim's collection, it is found that his romantic dresses imitated the nineteenth century court dresses. Therefore, from the feminist's viewpoint, his princess fashion is a mere reproduction of anachronistic styles reflecting inferior and passive images of women. The researcher draws a conclusion that today's fashion should transcend the princess fashion that signifies the female's submissive-masochistic roles operated by the male's sexual expectation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.175-184
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• 2023

This study explores aspects of Vietnamese students' acculturation and acceptance behavior of K-fashion, based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB). In-depth interviews were conducted with 8 Vietnamese international students in Korea. The results of the study firstly indicate that K-fashion acceptance behavior of Vietnamese students reflected eight values of K-fashion, two motives of behavior, and two types of K-fashion acceptance behavior. Vietnamese students generally displayed a favorable attitude toward K-fashion. They all switched to K-fashion styles and actively showed their styles through SNS. Second, there was a difference in K-fashion behavior depending on whether the motivation for acculturation was of an active or inactive nature. The distinction between these two groups was determined by applying behavioral reasoning theory (BRT). Students whose motivation for learning Korean was an interest in Korean culture were characterized by active behavior in adapting to Korean culture, while those whose motivation for learning Korean was for strategic reasons, such as finding a good job, exhibited inactive K-fashion acceptance. This study has academic significance in that it enhances the understanding of Vietnamese consumers through the K-fashion acceptance behavior of Vietnamese students in Korea. Vietnamese students who actively embrace K-fashion play an important role in spreading K-fashion, so it could be beneficial to establish a strategy for promoting K-fashion in collaboration with them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.145-164
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• 1997

Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.