• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.188-203
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• 2010

This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Computer Information Conference
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• 2023.01a
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• pp.437-438
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• 2023

This paper takes the Pingjiang historical and cultural district of Suzhou city as an example, collects 1439 visitor review data from Ctrip.com with the help of Python technology, and uses web text analysis to conduct research on high-frequency words, semantic networks and emotional tendencies to comprehensively assess the tourist perception of the Grand Canal heritage. The study found that: natural and humanistic landscape, historical and cultural accumulation, and the style of Jiangnan Canal are fully reflected in the tourists' perception of Pingjiang historical and cultural district; tourists hold strong positive emotion towards Pingjiang Road, however, there is still more room for renovation and improvement of the historical and cultural district. Finally, countermeasure suggestions for improving the tourist perception of the Grand Canal heritage are given in terms of protection first, cultural integration and innovative utilization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.73-84
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• 2011

Upholstery style is the form which bulges a shape by putting fillings in the support and covering them with patterned textile or pile fabric. Modern upholstery style was combined with the various socio-cultural products and artistic styles and expressed in interior furniture and costumes of historical time periods. The style first originated when people built houses for settlement and made furniture to decorate its interior. The characteristics of upholstery style came to be prominent in the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo times with the development of science and textile industry. The interior furniture represented the ages of the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo and were made with similar images of the architectural style from those different time periods. Textiles, tapestry, velvet, corduroy, damask, brocade, and the most frequently used velvet are elements that make up the structural and figurative features of the architectural style. The upholstery style of furniture also shows the forms of clothing that represents each of the different periods. This style still continues to be used today. In modern day fashion, the figurative characteristics of the upholstery style that derives from interior furniture and clothing from the different time periods are bulkiness, asymmetry and exoticism. Such figurative characteristics have evolved through the combination of diverse genres but it still maintains similar designs and forms.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.16
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

I try to extract typological factors from the historically relevant works of animation, for that we can refer 'style.' creator's individuality, general tendencies and restraints of his time, the national properties work on them. It is the individual aspect that excels in the works of Jiri Trnka, Tim Burton, Yuri Norstein, so they stand out not only in their own specific sensibility, vision but also in the elucidation of themes and the technology of dealing medium. On the other hand the Walt Disney's animation has so distinctive characteristics that we could identify them. Disney's so-called classical model accomplished a typically American animation form as full of expressive visual language, over reaction, full animation describing detail action. We could tell, Miyajaki Hayao's Gibri Studio represents Japanese animation, which works on traditional motives of Japan and expresses unique humanity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.165-178
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• 2012

This study researches the form of the Korean jacket point through relics from the Three Kingdoms period that have the traditional Korean style and grace of the Goryeo period as well as the form of the modern Korean jacket starting point. Several conclusions can be drawn from the Korean Image of the Korean jacket that can be classified into types expressed in the jacket style of modern fashion. Therefore, we will analyze traditional elements of Korean beauty through the "Korean image" on how to express it in modern fashion. The purpose of this study is to understand modern design creation and Korean culture. It is important to begin the world through the application of traditional elements to recognize Korean beauty as well as to utilize historical dress based on function and popularity to continue the effort.

• Archives of design research
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.45-56
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• 1992

In the 1970s, the term Post - Modernism came into use to lable work of graphic design who broke up the Swiss style that had defined clarity and order. The characteristics of Post - Modernism graphic design include pluralistic and eclectic style. Those innovation of graphic design concerned with our social, political. cultural, and econonic changes. Deconstruction is one of the theory of Post-structualism. Deconstruction refers to the breaking down of metaphysics, rationalism, totality and so on. Deconstructive graphic design destroys traditional harmony even more than Marinetti's claim. Totality in graphic design seems to be ignored. Post - Modernism in architecture appears as historical revivalism and pluralism. The eclectic revivals and eccentric reinventions in graphic design are far too pluralistic and diverse to fit such as a simplistic system of style. Another innovation in graphic design occurs by electronic revolution. The impact of computer upon graphic design is becoming even more pronounced. Most importantly, Post-Modernism can consider the rediscovered freedom in graphic design. Graphic design is undergoing profound changes. But the essence of graphic design as com$$\mu$ication tools will remain unchanged.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.261-276
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• 2010

The analysis of an art trend in the principle dimension starts by observing the object of work in the perspective of formative composition and recognizing it as a universal system. It can be said that it is consistent with an interpretation method for a form theory of formal history by Heinrich W$\ddot{o}$lfflin, a leading form critic in art criticism. Hence, the purpose of this study was to find out what are the formative principles in Renaissance Classicism as a design principle to be applicable to modern fashion by reviewing the formative characteristics of Renaissance Classicism Architecture with which W$\ddot{o}$lfflin directly dealt. As for the theoretical literature review, I used W$\ddot{o}$lfflin's theoretical framework and looked at the Renaissance Classicism Architecture that he studied and examined the possibility of utilizing his theory as a layout principle and the characteristics. As for analysis of design cases, I applied the aforementioned architecture layout principle to modern fashion and conducted case study analysis to delve into distinctive layout principles found in fashion. The study showed that the Renaissance Classicism Architectural Style is marked by linearity, planarity, closing and multiple unity: linearity was expressed in the observation form in fixed frontal view and an emphasis on a tangible silhouette homeogenous and definite line structures; planarity was achieved in the form of paralleled layers of frontal view element, planarity style, and identical and proportional repetition of various sizes.; closing signified the pursuit of complete and clear regularity, and architecture developed in a constructive phase through organizational inevitability and absolute invariability.; multiple unity was expressed in self-completedness and independent parallel of discrete forms and harmony of emphasized individual elements in a totality. Applying these layout characteristics of the Renaissance Classicism Architectural style and to see their individual expressive features, I found out that in adopting layout principles of the Renaissance Classicism Architecture to modern fashion, it turned out to be an emphasis of individual silhouettes, a flattened space, completed objects, organic harmony among independent parts: the emphasis of individual silhouettes was expressed in individual definitiveness of formative lines of clothes in accordance with body joints and an emphasis on formative lines of clothes; the flattened space was marked by single layer structure, planarity of elements of clothes, and listing arrangement by appropriate proportion.; the completedness of the objects was expressed by the stationary state where overall image is fixed, the construction of homogeneous and complete space, and absolute inevitability of internal layout in proportion; lastly, organic harmony of independent parts was stressed in independent completedness of each detail, and organic harmony of the whole. The expressive features would lead to a unique expression style of linear emphasis, proportion, constructive forms, and two-dimensional arrangement. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.213-228
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.141-155
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to arrange the korean women's hair styles of the beginning of 21st century and make hair style image making chart to use personal image making consulting data through analyze actress hair styles of broadcasting TV drama. To accomplish this purposes, picked up the two most popular dramas per each broadcasting stations, KBS1, KBS2, MBC, SBS, in february 2004. and analyzed and arranged hair styles of actress and at the last made the hair style image making chart. The results of the research are as belows. 1. Hair trends of february 2004. were Modern Sophisticated, Active and Romantic. 2. The results of three classifications of hair style trends, form, color, accessory, were as belows. 1) Form : Layer, left part, straight, low wave, long hair, no volme, bang were in vogue. Generally, Modern Sophisticated, Active, Romantic feeling were in vogue. 2) Color : Black, brown, two tone color were in vogue. Generally Modern Sophisticated, Romantic, Active feeling were in vogue. 3) Accessory : Hair bands & pins were in vogue. Generally these gave the Modern, Active feeling. 3. Hair style image making chart manufacturing depends on fashion feeling. 1) Classification of feeling, 2) Analysis of form, 3) Analysis of color, 4) Hair style image making chart manufacturing depends on fashion feeling This research will be a historical data of korean women's hair styles of the beginning of 21st century & can be used the basic data of personal hair style image making consulting.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Interior Design Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.270-274
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• 2007

Clearing trace of symbol which was gone with a series of pre-modern architecture history since the modern architecture (pursuing true nature from tradition which is repeated and imitated unconsciously). That is, What is the course of deconstruction? In the early part of the 20th century, We still accept the necessity of decoration in spite of its existence at one time being threaten. This means, even though symbolism in architecture has relative importance by situation of Times, it plays an important role to add the past to current style through 'Symbol'. The history of Times, a carrier which reflects Present on New Futures, makes memory by gathering data but we can not amplify our historical imagination with only data. Data is a past memory and evidence but we can not substitute that for historical experience. And it is difficult for future generations who don't live through that history to change their historical recognition with recollecting memories. They have to draw history with data but it is very limited in itself. However, They can collect historical memory through symbol in architecture. In this study, We pay attention to the symbolism of a memorial hall architecture. So We'll analyze dichotomy concept of Barthes's signifiant and signifie, visual sign and course of symbolic meaning on basis of Daniel Libeskind's Jewish Museum.