This paper aims to establish the technical style of roof tiles by analyzing East Asian roof tile making techniques. It will examine the existing main research data, such as excavation results and the subsequent analysis of the roof tiles' production traces, as well as references and transmitted techniques. Regions are grouped according to technical similarity, then grouped again by artistic styles of pattern and shape and by the technical styles of tools, procedures, and manpower plans. Accordingly, intends to find out whether an understanding of technical style can facilitate an understanding of not only cultural aspects, but also the causality of techniques. Korean, Chinese and Japanese tools were examined, and procedures for making roof tiles were classified into 4 groups. In a superficial way, China, Okinawa, Korea, and Honshu share similar technical traits. Research of procedural details and manpower plans revealed characteristics of each region. As a result, comparisons were made between each region's technical characteristics attempting to investigate their causes. The groups were classified according to their possessing techniques, but it was revealed that East Asia's shared production techniques were based on architectural methodss. The skill of "Pyeon Jeol(Clay Cutting)" classified according to its possessing techniques, turned out to be one such technique. Also, the procedure of technical localization based on the skill of "Ta-nal(Tapping)" showed that the condition of this technique was the power to localize in response to a transfer of techniques. Previous comparison parameters of artifacts would have been a similarity of style originated from exchanges between regions and stylistic characteristics of regions decided by the demander's taste of beauty. This methodology enlarges cultural perception and affords a positive basis of historical facts. However, it suggests the possibility of finding cultural aspects' origins by understanding the technical style and seeing same result in view of "technology culture."
The purpose of this study was to investigate that to see how their traditional characteristics were reflected and expressed in Hanoi vietnamese contemporary public restaurants. For this, We visited Hanoi twice to have onsite research in August 2012 and 2013. According to the results of surveying Vietnamese public restaurants, all of the 12 cases had humane characteristics reflecting Vietnam traditional culture, showing Vietnamese unique traditional characteristics including intangible elements such as natural environment, life culture elements such as food culture, and formative aesthetic elements using indigenous ornaments. Different from luxury restaurants that had trade names on the theme of historical stories related to people or places and expressed various concepts formatively using photographs of Vietnamese politics and history and ornamental elements such as tableware, however, the public restaurants were simple in theme or concept. It is probably because most of the surveyed cases were situated in the old quarter to the north of the Hoan Kiem Lake and in the area to the west of the lake and their target customers were local people, so they reflected the Vietnamese traditional residence style and common people's life rather than designing the restaurants intentionally with specific concepts. As to the spatial expression characteristics of the surveyed cases, casual restaurants in Hanoi expressed only basic structure using basic construction materials and techniques with outdoor spaces in the form of Vietnam traditional tube house, and therefore, the overall atmosphere was contemporary. In indoor spaces as well, the general level was low, using uncharacteristic common design and color and cheap finishing materials and furniture. 83% of all cases showed the pattern of VM-VM-VT, being mainly contemporary by partially adopting Vietnamese unique ornamental elements for their outdoor and indoor spaces and using traditional elements supplementarily.
This study analyzed the expression of hanbok in online fashion styling games, and examined the main themes of and user reactions to hanbok fashion styling games through semantic network analysis and sentiment analysis. KrKwic, Textom, and NodeXL were used for data collection and analysis. The findings of the study are as follows: First, depending on the designer's expressive method, hanbok fashion styling games provide typical traditional hanbok, modern hanbok, and dress-like fusion hanbok, demonstrating contents with various themes for different sexes, classes, and situations. Second, as a result of analyzing the themes of hanbok-related styling game contents, it turned out that the main themes are tradition, color, historical drama, fusion hanbok, holiday, and love. Most of them produce modernized hanbok that reflect the situation and utility rather than strictly traditional ones. Third, as a result of analyzing user reviews of hanbok styling game contents, positive factors mostly turned out to be the satisfaction of the hanbok contents, with the users also showing positive intent to wear hanbok. Through this, it was found out that hanboks portrayed in game contents could potentially cause the user's positive intent to wear hanbok. Negative factors turned out to be the discordance between the intrinsic image of hanbok and the game character's image.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.18
no.2
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pp.35-49
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2016
Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.
Proceedings of the Korean Society of Community Living Science Conference
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2004.10a
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pp.97-100
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2004
It is now very important that we have to explore the excellency of Korean traditional foods and to hand down the taste of it to the next generations, because the shapes of the foods or the foods themselves are fading out on the ground that the western style of foods are spreading very widely. However, the realistic research about the foods are very slight and the data of the systemic investigation and excavation about the Korean traditional foods are very short. In addition to this, we are need to investigate, excavate, and accumulate the data for the foods when there are persons who has some experience about how to cook and know-how about the actual foods in order to prepare the international reservation for [an agreement of biological diversity], which was signed at Riu, Brazil. The research is done at the province of Chungchung from March to December, 2001. We observed the foods of the province, separating it into Chungchun-namdo and Chungchung-bukto. We collected the kinds of foods by the questionnaire or the field investigation, and we studied the historical evidence for them conferring the books about the foods( for instance, Whang, Hae-Sung and others). And we took the pictures on the process of making foods that the initiate experts are demonstrating. The kinds of traditional foods in Chung-buk were 158 foods, of which main dishes were 42 including Pyogo busutbap, and side dishes are 93 including Guysan-chu-tang, and preferences were 26 including Chik-bu-kku-mi, based on the conference books. However, our excavation and investigation shown that traditional foofs of Chung-buk were 95 kinds, of which main dishes were 18 including Keingsengi-ju, and side dishes were 44 including Jinip-kimchi, and preferences were 33 including Gamtto-gaetteok. However, the questionnaire shown that the kinds of traditional foods of Chung-nam were 342, of which main dishes were 53 including Kukijasun-bibim-bap, and side dishes were 202 including Kkokgeial-teonjang-kuk, and preferences were 90 including Hodu-kawja. However, our excavation and investigation shown that the traditional foods of Chung-nam were 90 kinds, of which main dishes were 8 including Ssuk-bap, and side dishes were 64 kinds including Hobak-geikukji, and preferences were 21 kinds including Yeohyangchia.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.9
no.2
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pp.31-48
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2007
The purpose of the this study is to make a historical review of changes in the structural decorations of men's costume from ancient times to modern times and to provide basic materials for developing handicraft decoration techniques and sewing methods in contemporary fashion. Their gorgeousness of collars and sleeves reached its peak along with the exaggerated expression of the human body during the Renaissance when people were free from Christian traditions of the Middle Ages and pursued human pleasures. Huge and decorative collars gave great dignity and formality to the wearer. Sleeves were slim and cuffs were small or nonexistent after the French Revolution. Various decorated pockets had been developed since pockets began to be attached to coats in the 17th century. Pockets were at the bottom of coat in the late 17th century, but they were gradually placed much higher on the coat. Buttons began to be used as the tool for sticking fast body to clothes in the 12th century and became extremely sumptuous accessories in the $16th{\sim}18th$ centuries. Men's clothes were simpler and more practical after the French Revolution. The result was that decorative buttons begun to disappear and metal buttons came out for practical purpose. The number of buttons worn on sleeves was also noticeably reduced. This research suggested the possibility that various decoration techniques could create the unique details in the each part of clothes. In order to develop high value-added products, we need to study various decoration-sewing methods and put to practical use them for creative fashion design.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.13
no.4
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pp.15-28
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2011
This study will focus on research and analysis covering the period of time since the creation of the People's Republic of China to current day China, with an emphasis on 20-something year-old women living in Shanghai. In conducting this research, historical evidence of fashion was derived from books, photographs, and Internet resources pertaining to the specific periods of interest. Furthermore, each set of data has been organized in approximately decade-long segments that best reflect the transformation of Chinese fashion from 1949 to 2000. As a result of the countrywide emphasis placed on revitalization of the newly created Chinese state during the period of 1949 to 1965, detail to fashion was largely ignored, in preference to the successful upstart of a working economic foundation. This neglect of fashion is evident by the scarcity of new and daring styles during this period. The following the period of 1966 to 1977 ushered in a cultural revolution that was aptly demonstrated in the changing fashion tastes. When compared with the previous period, the blandness of clothing, authorized by the Chinese government clearly reflected the rules and regulations strictly enforced by a government mandate of conformity and obedience. These orthodox changes were so drastic, that women wearing these clothes could hardly be differentiated from men in the same style wear. After Mao Ze Dong's death in 1976 and the end of the sternest period of the Chinese Revolution, a new era of Chinese culture and fashion was made possible by a more lax and tolerant government. During the later palt of the seventies through the eighties, this new governmental policy fostered more openness and self-expression, both of which led to a newfound interest in expressing one's desires and personality through the clothes he or she chose to wear.
This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.
In the 1900s, the cultural crossing of East and West was realized through the acceptance and reproduction of culture. Cultural change in the Orient was the result of attempts to harmonize the West's images, which they chose in their respective countries, with their own culture. However, research on design history until now has been centered on the West, and East was regarded as a beneficiary of civilization inherited from Western's. From the point of view of Western design history as a main trend, the unique characteristics of Korean design culture are not revealed. Therefore, through this studies, we want to distinguish Korea's modern design, which has been recognized as a minority. For the study, through the wallpaper, which is one of the detailed components of the interior space in modern times, we try to analyze the socio - cultural historical factors and design characteristics influencing the formation of the interior space in modern times. Summarizing a result of research. The early modern wallpaper of England mainly uses plants as motifs. But In Korea, animal patterns and letter patterns were used. The reason why European wallpaper was mainly a plant at the time was that the structure of the motif was useful for the process of creation. However, in the case of the Korean wallpaper pattern, the theme was selected according to the meaning of the motif, and it was abstracted appropriately for the 2D design. As a result, many geometric shapes were formed. In addition, European wallpaper pattern is more complex and organic than Korean wallpaper pattern. Therefore, the boundary of the central pattern as the basic unit is unclear and the patterns are connected. The pattern development method is not a simple repetition but a combination of symmetry and repetition. In Korea, on the other hand, the boundaries of unit patterns are clear and patterns are developed by simple repetition. There are many diamond-type repeating patterns in particular.
When newsreel was organized in 1967, it was a small but strong revolution. New York newsreel became the third world newsreel in 1972. The third world newsreel clearly stated that the purpose of the organization should be the alternative provision of the Television news. They also notified the revolution of the production system and the distribution system. Christine Choy who actively worked at the Third world newsreel succeeded the spirit of the organization through her works. Through the third world newsreel and Christine Choy who was the representative of the organization, this article is dealing with the mode of production and the style and the aesthetics of the Newsreel. Their activities were originally political and always controversial. They agonized who should be the film maker, how should be the distribution system. Through the strong arguments, the group had acquired not only collective identity but also collective production. Those collaborations had become the foundation of their works. Christine Choy has been a key figure of the Third world newsreel and her films has focused on the racial problem and gender problem. Her works have always been political and historical.
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