• Title/Summary/Keyword: Historical Style

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Pastiche in the late Capitalism Fashion (후기자본주의 사회의 패션에 나타난 혼성모방)

  • 김민자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50
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    • pp.69-84
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    • 2000
  • Th purpose of this study is three folds: to analyze postmodern fashion through the notion of pastiche to enhance an understanding of uncertain and confused situation in the late 1990s and to suggest a way of approach to creativity and originality in recent fashion design. The results can be summarized as follows: 1. Pastiche is an art work that borrows some parts of other artists authentic works and recombines them thus imitating their style technique or motifs selfconciously. 2. Pastiche is based onthe Deconstruction theory: the end of art as a result of deconstruction of the subject the collapse of the meaning the loss of history: the late Capitalism in which reality becomes chage into images or simulacre. 3. Pastiche represented by the death of author which means the exhaustion of creativity is shown in the fashion borrowing subculture styles and art works or religious images. Pastiche fashion which is equal to the play of signifiers floated as image is shown as graffiti and objects Time and space pastiche fashion can be explained by historical eclectism and ethnic looks, Finally pastiche means not the fixed aspect but the open concept of indeterminate condition which includes " anything goes" through the coesistence of various style in pastiche fashion.

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A Study on the Fashion Design of Emilio Pucci - Focusing on the 1960s -

  • Oh, Yun-Jeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.64-74
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study is to broaden the realm of the fashion design using print hereafter and to urge designers to the better quality design by presenting successful case. As a method of the study, the literature and visual data in this study were reviewed focusing on the 1960's, which was Pucci's golden age. For the historical background, textual and visual data related to sixties fashion and Italian fashion were referred. Foreign literature was investigated to study life of Pucci and his design tendency in fashion because domestic papers and research data were rare. Out of this, characteristics of fashion design of Pucci and conclusion were extracted. Emilio Pucci was born to an illustrious Florentine aristocratic family in 1914. He was a designer, businessman and politician. Pucci's design has following characteristics. Firstly, gorgeous geometric prints with brilliant colors were key factor in Pucci's fashion design. Secondly, Pucci's design in fashion was a luxury sporty casual style symbolizing wearer's status and position in society. Thirdly, Pucci liberated the wearer's body using light and stretch material matching comfortable and active style. Lastly, Pucci developed total fashion dealing with various items widely including clothes and non-clothing products.

A Study on Byul-Gam Uniforms in Yi-Dynasty (별감복 소고)

  • Lee Kyung Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.177-183
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    • 1978
  • Byul-Gam is a low-ranking official who takes charge of sundry services in Yi-Dynasty court, and escorts his king when he make a honored going. Uniforms of Byul-Gam are noted for their gaiety. This study aims at inquiring into uniforms of Byul-Gam through historical records. The resultant findings are as follows: 1) Uniforms of Byul-Gam are divided into full dress and ordinary clothes. 2) The full dress has two kinds of style. One is Dan-Ryung, a kind of robe, clad together with Gun as a headdress. This robe is blue, Gun for king's Byul-Gam violet, and Gun for the Crown Prince's Byul-Gam blue. The other is a combination of yellow Cho-Rip and red Chup-Ri. This is a military uniform. 3) Ordinary dresses for Byul-Gam are orange Cho-Rip and red Jik-Ryung. Underwear in this case is Hyup-Joo-Um and Chup-Ri. Hyup-Joo-Um is a kind of robe. Inside it Korean style of jacket and slacks are usually clad. 4) As time passed, the uniform of Byul-Gam had been changed from Cheong-Dan-Ryung to Hong-Dan-Ryung, and Jik-Ryung had been shifted to a full dress. 5) Only five remains of Jik-Ryung for Byul-Gam have been handed down to us. The analysis of those indicate that they gradually became similar to Duru-Magi, a kind of Korean robe. This fact is common in the other transfiguring process of dresses of robe kind.

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The Forms of Man's Wig in Seventeen-Eighteen Century Focused on the movie "Pirates Of The Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl" (17, 18세기 남성의 가발형태 영화 "캐리비안의 해적-블랙펄의 저주-"을 중심으로)

  • Choi, Mi-Ouk;Kim, Sung-Nam
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.5 no.3
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    • pp.105-110
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    • 2007
  • With the beginning of seventeenth century, the men in France royal palace began to wear wigs and by eighteenth century wig became sole possession of men. Then, it had been become a satire thing filling one side of the era with the pouf that had been for women. All these things were closely related with the unstable social situation. The bourgeoisie expressed the anger for the privilege that come from the disparity of class consciousness. The reaction against the discriminative treatment by the illuminists stimulated the outbreak of the French Revolution on 14th, July in 1789. This paved way of characterizing the wig styles of the time. The symbolism of cultural-historical meaning in the west is not confined only in Europe. The worship of hair that is different from one cultural area to another had started with their own unique taboo consciousness and had developed to the form speaking for the expression of masculine, the symbol of man power and the extravagance of the privileged class.

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Origin of the Korean Screen Planisphere with both Old and New Star-charts

  • Ahn, Sang-Hyeon
    • The Bulletin of The Korean Astronomical Society
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    • v.39 no.1
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    • pp.85.2-85.2
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    • 2014
  • The origin of the Korean Screen Planisphere with both Traditional and New Star-Charts, made by Korean Astronomers in the Royal Astronomical Bureau of the Joseon Dynasty by adopting the knowledge of the European astronomy, is investigated by analyzing its inscriptions and star charts. The considerations on both the changes in notations or representations of names of asterisms and the naming taboos used in the Old-style planisphere imply that the star-chart is originated from either the Sukjong-Stele-Replica of Cheonsang-Yeolcha-Punyajido(天象列次分野之圖). The New style planisphere is just the reproduction of Huangdao-congxingtu (黃道總星圖), with the exception of the non-Chinese-traditional stars. The Huangdao-congxingtu was made in 1723 CE by Ignatius K$\ddot{o}$gler who was a Jesuit missionary and worked for the Bureau of Astronomy (欽天監) in the Qing Dyansty. I find that the star chart was imported in 1742 CE from the Qing by An Gukrin (安國麟) who was an astronomer in the Royal Astronomical Bureau of Joseon. The chart became model for the screen star-chart made in 1743 CE and now housed in Bopju temple. I found that the inscriptions are extracted from the sentences in both Xinzhi Lingtai Yixiangzhi (新製靈臺儀象志) and Qinding Yixiangkaocheng (欽定儀象考成). Korean historical records in either Daily Records of the Royal Secretariat of the Joseon Dynasty (承政院日記) or Annals of the Joseonn Dynasty (朝鮮王朝實錄) show that Xinzhi Lingtai-Yixiangzhi was imported from the Qing Dynasty in 1708 CE, and the Qinding Yixiangkaocheng was imported in 1766 CE. Thus, the Korean Screen Planisphere with both Old and New Star-charts was certainly made after 1766 CE.

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A Study on the Historical Research of the Leading Costume in 'Seodong Tale' ('서동설화'에 등장하는 주요 인물 복식 고증)

  • Kim, Moon-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.7
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    • pp.135-151
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to research the costume styles during the Silla(新羅), and Paekje dynasty[百濟] in 'Seodong tale'. In those days, costume form, color, pattern, and ornaments played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The Methodology of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in 'Seodong tale' through the antique records and tombs bequests and expressing the clothing of the appearance people in the picture. This study is about the costume styles representing the differences in social status during the Silla and Baekje dynasty in 'Seodong tale'. Sedong wore 'Heug Geon(黑巾)' and 'Yu', 'Ko(袴)'. The king of Silla, Jinpyung wore Tree and Antler-typed Diadem and 'Po(袍)' with 'GwaDae(銙帶)' and Earrings, Necklaces, Rings. The servant of Baekje wore 'Eunmhwakwansik[silver crown]' and 'Jangyu' bound the silver belt and 'Ko'. Silla Princess of the court, Seonhwa wore Feathered Trim with Conical hat, and 'Yu' bound the belt and 'SangdongChima' and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets, Rings. Sedong's mother's hair style was 'Eonjeunmeori' and wore 'Yu' and 'Ko'. The queen of Baeje, Seonhwa wore 'Keumhwasik[Gold crown]', and 'Po' bound the belt and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets.

A Comparative Study on the Design Characteristics of Catholic Church in Korea, China and Japan - Focus on the basilican brick church in the early stage - (한.중.일 초기 성당건축의 의장적 특성에 대한 비교연구 - 현존하는 초기 삼랑식 벽돌조 성당건축을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Jung-Shin
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.67-75
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    • 2012
  • This Study is concerned with the Design Characteristics of Korean, Chinese and Japanese brick church architecture. The main subject of the study is to investigate the commonness and difference between Korean, Chinese and Japanese brick church architecture in the early stage(1880-1920). In carrying this study into execution, I examined the architectural and historical backgrounds based on the preceding research works, and analysed the plan, the spacial composition, design elements, techniques and materials, etc. The result of this study is as follows ; The basic concept of composition of space is same in order to embody the Basilican space, but the inner elevation and detail of brick structure is different. Chinese churches are more close to Western basilican style church in the point of shape and plan, but in the point of inner elevation and decoration of church, Japanese churches are more close to Western style church. Korean churches are in the middle of its. There are different attitudes of naturalization of western church architecture in Korea, China and Japan.

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The Succession of a Traditional Landscape Style in Yanjing Eight Scenery

  • Geng, Xin;Zhang, Junhua;Akasaka, Makoto;Aoki, Yoji
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture Conference
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    • 2007.10b
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    • pp.151-156
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    • 2007
  • The Eight Scenery, as a traditional landscape to today, gradually caught the concern of landscape scholars, as well became the mutual cultural wealth of South Korea, China and Japan even of the whole Asia. The Yanjing Eight Scenery firstly originated from the Jin dynasty is an important representation of Eight Scenery culture in Scenic Spots and Historical Sites of China. The transition process of Yanjing Eight Scenery is examined in this thesis, and the cause of such change is also analyzed. Moreover, the landscape content of Yanjing Eight Scenery is classified in detail, and the succession of the landscape architecture of the Yanjing Eight Scenery style under the traditional culture is analyzed from the aspects of rebuilding pavilion, landscape arrangement, building, and new landscape architecture rebuilt followed the religious, the plant landscape and the traditional culture based on the classification. Beijing regional culture has influenced Yanjing Eight Scenery by its classification, the landscape evaluation, and the analysis of the landscape feature, in addition, this paper searches for the model to research the Eight Scenery culture in each country of Asia.

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A Basic Study on the Yuarye of Ji Cheng (계성의『원치』에 관한 기초적 연구)

  • 이유직;황기원
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.23 no.2
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    • pp.223-241
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    • 1995
  • Ji Cheng's great work on garden design, the 'Yuanye'(Craft of garden), written in 1631 and originally published in 1634 is the first surviving manual on landscape gardening in the Chinese tradition. This study aims at investigating not only Ji Cheng's life, achievements companionship and design activities, but also the xylographic copies, literary style, and framework of Yuanye in their historical context in order to provide the bases for further study, Ji Cheng was exellent in poetry and painting. And he constructed Dongdiyuan in Changzhou around 1623, Wuyuan in Yiaheng in 1631, and Yingyuan in Yangzhou around 1634 But no poems, paintings, and gardens designed by hi shill exist Therefore his design phi philosophy is able to be interpreted only by his work, Yuanye. After publishing, Yuanye fell into obscurity for several centuries in Chlna. It was redescovered and reprinted for the first time in 1931. Yuanye is composed of prefaces and main text The main text is divided into 'the Theory of Construction' and 'on Gardens', and the latter also into 10 sections. In this text Ji Cheng explains the aesthetic principles underlying garden design and the appropriate emotional response to various efftcts Especially, he emphasizes the importance of basin the garden design on the taxi ting nature and features of landscape and making use of natural scenery. The literary style of the book is highly mannered, and there are so many poetic descriptions and Ji Cheng's native Jiangsu dialects. So the translation of the original text is very difficult After this, the major design concepts of Ji Cheng's landscape gardening theory and whole network of these concepts have to be studied.

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Recognizing hanbok in youth through text mining (텍스트 마이닝을 통해 살펴본 청소년의 한복 인식)

  • Shim, Joonyoung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.27 no.3
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    • pp.239-250
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    • 2019
  • Recently, young people wearing hanbok are highly visible in the palace and in Hanok Village. However, there is much controversy regarding whether the hanbok the young people are wearing is traditional. Young people in Korea are exposed to hanbok through a variety of ways such as school education, games, webtoons, television shows, and movies. In this study, we presented teenagers with illustrations of hanbok to see which they preferred and which if any they recognized as traditional. The study respondents most preferred the hanbok from the 18th century, but they considered the hanbok from the 20th century to be the traditional style. We next used text mining to analyze the students' freely written, open-ended responses regarding the hanbok they preferred and the one they considered traditional. The hanbok from the 18th century, the one the teenagers preferred, was a sexy, cool style related to gisaeng that emphasized the waist, whereas the hanbok they believed was traditional, the $20^{th}$-century hanbok, was simple, neat, comfortable, and plain. Among the young people's responses regarding which hanbok was traditional, the text mining extracted the following repeated words related to both the 18th- and 20th-century hanbok: "dramas," "mass media," "historical dramas," and "movies." For the 18th-century hanbok only, we extracted "webtoons" and "Hanok Village," and for only the 20th-century hanbok, we extracted "textbooks."