• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.66-80
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• 2017

The headdress is one of the most important clothing characters in China, as it was used to distinguish the 55 minority groups in China. Each minority group has a unique headdress culture. Among the 55 minority groups, the Zang, the Yi, and the Miao focus their ethnic costumes on the headdress, and have a more distinctive headdress culture compared to be other nationality groups. The Yi is one of the minority groups that linvd in Southwest China. They usually lived in compact communities in Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guizhou provinces, as well as the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous region. The total population of the Yi is the sixth largest among the 55 minority groups. Modern scholars believe that the Yi people are descendants of the ancient Qiang people, which is a group that lived in Northwest China six or seven thousand years before. It is believed that the Qiang went down to the southern part of China and allied with the aboriginals in that region, and this group of people became the Yi, Due to its long history, cultural background, and the large number of people and settlements, they have produced a unique costume culture. The women's headdress culture is considered to be the one of the most important characteristics of their costume culture. There are four forming element of the Yi women's headdress, religious faith, myths, geographical distribution and customs & festivals. The first three elements play an important role in the protection and spread of headdress, while the fourth element provides potential for the modern headdress development. Because of much influence factors, more than 100 types of Yi women headdresses have developed. Depends on categories, Yi woman headdress can be divided into kerchief, hat, fascinator and other accessories wore on the hand. This study investigated the development of the Yi women's headwear, and screened and analyzed representative Yi women accessories, such as the headscarf, hat, and fascinator. This analysis will provide basic materials for further studies of Yi women's headdress or costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.333-342
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to understand the newer and more direct design techniques, and to provide information to exert creativity in designing. The headdress, one of dress items, was selected so that the change might be investigated in designs and production methods. A headdress was manufactured on the basis of literature review and portrait analysis. The target period of the study was limited to Henry Ⅶ and Henry Ⅷl(1485∼l547) when gable headdress was put on. The details and the patterns of gable headdress were identified for the selected gable hood to be manufactured. It was not possible to get the same dress material, so a similar one was made as in the pictures. The same was done to the color. Putting the focus of the study on the reproduction of the figure in the portrait, some dimension were measured in bodily proportion and patterns were made by three-dimensional cutting. As results, some dimensions used in the manufacture had some limits.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.246-251
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• 1999

Headdress which adorns the head has been used not only as a type of dress but also as a vehicle to express the human's mentality and a tool to convey ideas. This study first examines the type of headdress observed in the world folk costumes and investigates their geographical distribution and aims to examine how the types of headdress are inter-related to the peoples' natural environments, way of life and cultural background such as religion and aesthetic, ethical standards. Headdress used as important elements of many peoples' folk costumes can be categorized into scarf-type, hat-type and adornment-type. Veil-type, the one of scarf-types, was developed in Southwestern Asia and Arabic Africa influenced by natural and religious factors. This type is more simplified in Turkey and Eastern Europe and only covers head and neck in the former and only head in the latter while also being called 'headkerchief-type'. Hat-type is observed in many different parts of the world. Adornment-type has been used to symbolized one's noble social status and authority in societies dominated by shamanistic cultural background; it was also used in Far East out of the motivation to fulfil one's aesthetic desire. Headdress though it was originally made from the idential purpose of wearing, has developed into the various types affected by each people's natural environments, emotion and ways of life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.489-500
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• 2012

This work surveys the trend and dissolution characteristics in headdress that appear in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection. Along with a related literature review, a total of 903 headdress pieces shown in collections 40 times (excluding the common caps and hats) were analyzed, covering from 2001S/S to 2010 F/W of Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter. The headdress trend indicated in his collections was divided into such subgroup forms of folklore, usage of natural things, usage of artificial things, religion, retro, scarf, variations in headgear, mask and veil, atypical type and abstract. Such an expression tendency was so unique and mixed characteristic that it was hard to define its form and structure thanks to enlargement and exaggeration, extremity in ornaments, and use of foreign materials, which led to creative dynamics. Gaultier's headdress also reflected the following characteristics: first, expression of difference indicative of time deconstruction; second, uncertainty of meanings via deconstruction; third, text interactivity via deconstruction of gender and material adopted; fourth, decentralization through dissolution of the Orient and the Occident.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.79-98
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• 2015

This article studied women's headdresses that appeared in the paintings of Joseon Dynasty. This examined the shapes of women's headdresses painted in genre paintings, record paintings and nectar ritual paintings from Joseon Dynasty and compared them to literatures and relics in order to analyze their types and characteristics. Headdress can be categorized into three types: (1) square cloth worn on the top of the head; (2) a kind of small cap; (3) Cloth that completely covers the head. The first type of headdress resembles the shape of Garima. In the early period of Joseon Dynasty, it was worn not only by Gisaeng, but also by both upper and lower class women. The second type of headdress includes a cap made by connecting several cloths, round cap, and cone-shaped cap. These two types are worn on top of the head. However, sometimes these were worn between the head and the chignon to fix the chignon. Also, these were used as hair accessories for decorative purposes. In particular, old women wore these headdresses and braided their white hair around them to fix the chignon. This way, the headdress not only kept the head warm, but also hid the old women's scanty hair. Headdress was usually made of black fabric and it was a simple hair accessory that replaced the wig. The third type of headdress was widely worn among lower class women. The cloth completely covered the head so that the hair would not fall when working. It also provided protection from cold and hot weather. According to paintings, there were many ways of wearing the cloth around the head.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.356-375
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and cultural values of the headdress among Chinese minorities with diverse ethnic cultures, and to provide various data on the design of clothing accessories. Theoretical considerations about ethnic minorities were addressed through literature and prior research, with data being collected using literature and websites. The results are as follows. First, the most common type of headdress is the horizontal type, which includes the head style, headband, and head scarf. The second most common is the cylinder type, which is a headdress with variations in the shape of a round hat, and has is evident among various minorities. Third, the pagoda type is decorated with ornaments mounted on top of a round shape. Fourth, the square crown type is a piece of wood as a material for a form of the material and for a variety of jewelry and the production of up to meet the women's head of the jewelry. Fifth, head belt-type ornaments consist of a headband and fancy bead ornaments from the bottom of the head. Mongol women usually wear an exaggerated form of this type. Sixth, the head cover type is a head decoration influenced by the dress code of Muslim women. Seventh is the disc type of crown shape worn by the Dai. Next, the ogival type is a cone-shaped headdress hat most commonly seen as head ornament hat among the Dai. Lastly, the sailboat type is the most exaggerated form of hair ornaments found among ethnic minorities.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.116-125
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• 2004

In the history of western costume, women's hairstyle and headdress have been fluently studied but men's headgear has not. To study and manufacture headgear designs and details, which indicate varieties in forms and ornaments, can be utilized for the fashion currently in vogue. Purpose: the purpose of the study is to investigate one of the headgear, the hat in terms of shift in design and manufacturing method, and to study through manufacturing in order to do a literature review by era and to provide information as the source in new design. Study method and scope: Like previously manufactured and presented bonnet of women's headdress or headgear, the hat in the study was manufactured on the basis of literature review and portrait analysis. Target era is from the late 16th century to the early 17th century when the hat was used. The hat to be manufactured was selected by investigating the details such as hair style and hat features using literature. The pattern of the selected hat was analyzed, and velvet, silk, and wool were used as the materials as in the literature. Ornaments used similar things as in the photos.

• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• 2005.06a
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• pp.29-30
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.829-840
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• 1999

Ordinarily hair styles and headclothes show the racial characteristics. Uighur's men had let their long hair hang down their back in many queues, According to the order of estates men wore double high coronets hthree-pointed coronets from the headdress. Married women wore the felt headdress. The type of men's clothes were long caftans which had a round collar slits on the both sides and tight sleeves. They tied Chan Die belts and wore long boots. Women wore long tunics with everted collar which was decorated. Later the type of women's dress was changed into the long caftan. Late period of Turfan Uighur Mongol style had appeared.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.243-252
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• 2003

The study was designed to review the changes in designs and the manufacturing methods of french hood, one of the headdresses which play an important role in showing the appearance of costume, to understand design expression techniques through manufacturing of the head dress of the western costumes, and to provide materials to exert creativity for new designs. Based on literature review and portrait study, 1 manufactured a frenchhood. I set the study cope as from the late 15 century when frenchhood was used for the first time, to the mid 16 century. For the frenchhood selected, 1 examined the hair style, the characteristics of the french hood, and the pattern first, and proceeded to manufacturing. 1 used velvet and silk for the textile as explained in the literature. And, 1 purchased such similar ornaments as shown in the pictures, making the color so similar to the original to the most. Dimensions in manufacturing were those In the literature, since the study is focusing on the reproduction of the features of the portraits. Dimensions of detailed decoration were measured using the ratio of the headdress in the portraits.