• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제23권1호
• /
• pp.49-63
• /
• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of modular design observed in Korean traditional clothing. Modular design, which is one of the noticeable characteristics of modern fashion design emerged in the 20th century. This study analyzed the Korean traditional culture to investigate the characteristics that show similarities to the modular system in design. A traditional Korean house is composed of small structures called 'chae'. A traditional Korean building is composed of a basic unit space called 'kan', and the rooms are divided and recombined. Korean traditional interior design shows furniture, bedding and art works that could be used, folded then stored. Korean cuisine is served in combination with small dishes. Korean letters are combined in square shaped form to make writing and printing easy. Korean traditional clothing has a way of washing where clothing are disassembled, washed and then re-stitched. The pattern pieces are made to be rectangular shaped so that the fabric pieces can be kept in shape during washing. The rectangular shaped pattern pieces can be replaced and reused after washing. Tops and bottoms could be interchanged for color-coordination, because the shapes of the clothing were standardized. These features exhibit modular system in Korean traditional clothing design. Modular system design has common characteristics which have basic modules, pursue practical purpose, have interchangeability adapted to circumstances, and could be disassembled and re-combined. Korean traditional clothing illustrates different ways of practicing modular system, but has some common features to contemporary modular fashion design.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제30권2호
• /
• pp.281-296
• /
• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제26권1호
• /
• pp.68-91
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to create modern patterns based on considering the types and design elements of Joseon hwapo patterns containing Korean identity, and to develop costume designs by applying design elements of traditional Korean dress, Hanbok. These designs combine traditional costumes with modern sensibility using the attribute listing method, and present them using a 3D virtual clothing program. Through this, it is meaningful as it organizes data on Joseon hwapo patterns, which were rarely dealt with in the traditional Korean costume research, and it is also of research value as it is a work that utilizes Joseon hwapo patterns as a new source of fashion design development. As a research method, literature research was conducted based on the documents, 'Nabeshima-sarasa hidensho', 'Nabeshima-sarasa mihoncho', and 'Zoho kafu benran', which are related to Joseon hwapo remaining in Japan. Based on the literature research, research was performed by creating pattern design and costume design using the attribute listing method, and 3D virtual clothing. Traditional Korean costumes used in design development in this study were saekdong-jeogori, dolddi-jeogori, magoja, hongjangsam, durumagi, jungdan, gollyongpo, jeogui, breast band, mujigi-chima, chima, and baji. Further, accessories used in each costume, such as pyeseul, daedae, hapi, and jeonhaeng-utchima, and features of configurations, such as yongbo, chest ribbons, band hem, gusset, collar and dongjung, heorimalgi, neckline, and sapok line, were used for design development.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권3호
• /
• pp.37-52
• /
• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• 복식
• /
• 제64권6호
• /
• pp.148-160
• /
• 2014

This study proposed the design development of performance uniform for Korean classical music. To do this, we considered the state of the performance uniform of the Korean Classical Music Band through photographic data. The research targeted the performers in Korean Classical Music Band, and conducted a survey for the preference of type, pattern, decoration, color and fabric materials. Based on the results, we extracted the design of performance uniform, which is suitable for the environment of Korean classical music performance and meets the substantial requirements of performers. The performance uniform that the current national or public Korean classical music bands are using, has two types: Western clothing and Hanbok. The attire is influenced by the genre of the music that they are playing because one of its main functions is to deliver the music to audience effectively. In addition, there are some differences in the uniform based on the gender, but no division in the design of clothing according to music instruments. However, the result of the survey show that there was no difference in preference by gender, but there was some difference according to the division of music instruments. On this study, we reflected this result in the design, and proposed the design of an convenient outer garment for everyone to wear in the music performance band.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제7권3호
• /
• pp.167-179
• /
• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권8호
• /
• pp.1252-1261
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to grasp the utilization of traditional Korean Patterns used for fashion cultural products. To achieve this purpose, this study examined the range of fashion cultural products through literature review, previous researches, and market surveys and analyzed the situation of fashion cultural products and the kinds, expression methods, expression techniques, and repeat styles of utilized patterns. The analysis results are as follows. First, in the use of traditional pattern, the most frequently-used fashion cultural products were small and inexpensive accessories, followed by fashion apparel, miscellaneous goods, and living cultural goods. Second, the most frequently-used traditional patterns were plant patterns, especially flower patterns. The next frequently-used ones were mixed patterns, especially in the mixture of flower and letter patterns, and $cloisonn\'{e}$ and flower patterns. The next frequently-used traditional patterns were animal patterns(especially butterfly patterns), followed by geometric patterns, lucky omen patterns, and letter patterns. In the expression methods of used patterns, most products except handicrafts preferred simplified patterns to real patterns. Finally, in the expression techniques of traditional patterns, the most frequently used technique was traditional embroidery, followed by the use of weaving fabrics such as fine gauze and brocade which are used for Hanbok. Also, transfer dyeing which is one of printing techniques, DTP(digital textiles printing), a mixed technique which adds embroidery to weaving fabrics, hand-painting, and a gilt technique were used. The results of this study suggest that most fashion cultural products except few designers' works attached weight to some specified patterns and expression techniques regardless of the characteristics of products since there is little understanding of a variety of patterns and are few researches and development on expression techniques.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권7호
• /
• pp.108-121
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to seek the means of enlarging the application of Saek-dong to fashion products by surveying and analysing the recognition and image of Saek-dong in college students. As a research procedure, the bibliographical survey on the meaning and history of Saek-dong was preceded in this study, and the students were examined on the recognition and image of Saek-dong through the questionnaires. The female students were more acquiesced with the Saek-dong and Saek-dong clothing than the male students. And the students thought that the Saek-dong was our original and traditional clothing because it was worn by our ancestors from the earliest years. The word Saek-dong reminded them of red, yellow, blue, green, white and red-brown colors in order of appearance. The most familiar color-arrange to them was red+yellow+dark-brown+green+blue, and the blue, purple, green, red, white color was thought as manly Saek-dong colors and the yellow, red, dark-brown, pink, white was regarded as feminine Saek-dong colors. Saek-dong was primarily associated with the image of Saek-dong clothing and most of the students expressed their feeling about the Saek-dong as 'cute.' Most of the students responded that the practical Hanbok was best illustrated as the most applied clothing of Saek-dong and that the attempt to apply the color and pattern of Saek-dong to other modern artistic products was likely to damage the worth of traditional Saek-dong. When it comes to the matter of applying the design of Saek-dong to the fashion products, male students thought that it could be best applied to the shirts, while female students thought that the design of Saek-dong could best be applied to the personal ornaments.