Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.21
no.3
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pp.161-172
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2019
This study examines the characteristics and recent changes of the Hanbok industrial cluster in Gwangju Metropolitan City, in order to understand the problems in the activation of the Hanbok industry and to seek future policies. A total 32 companies comprise the 'Small Manufacturer Specialized Support Center of Hanbok' and were surveyed with a 41 questions with questions in four categories. The Gwangju Hanbok area has been in existence for more than 40 years and was composed of small groups of one or two manufacturers. They are experiencing the same difficulties as other Hanbok clusters, such as the aging of workers, the downturn of dress culture, and changing consumption paradigms. However, since 2015, various efforts have been made in order to seek countermeasures to cope with such difficulties, particularly with the foundation of the 'Small Manufacturer Specialized Support Center of Hanbok' with the support of the Ministry of Small Venture Business. This study focuses on the alterations in the current Hanbok industry due to the IT industrialization as well as the changes in the locations of the Hanbok clusters due to the revitalization of old towns by local governments., The results providing an opportunity to appreciate the problems therein and seek the solutions. Small manufacturers of the Hanbok cluster are trying to improve their entrepreneurship, digital technology application, and knowledge in accordance with the socio-economic trends, but they have limitations to practically apply it to business, barely keeping the minimum production base. The central government and the Gwangju should reinforce and expand the support for marketing and public relations for the Hanbok to foster the designer population, to establish mutual brands, to raise brand awareness, and to promote the technological perfection of the individual businesses, to allow them to cope with the current market trends, in order for the technological development and firm settlement of the local Hanbok industrial cluster.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.46
no.4
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pp.687-703
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2022
This study aims to derive suggestions to help develop Hanbok education in the future by examining its current status in domestic educational institutions in light of rising social demand for Hanbok in the era of fashion Hanbok. We assessed the Hanbok curriculum in educational institutions nationwide, including universities and specialized institutes, and conducted in-depth interviews to understand the operational status of Hanbok-specialized education. We found that the demand for education on production functions is decreasing, while the demand for in-depth education on the history of Korean costume and education integrating Hanbok with design and marketing is increasing. We also found that, in the case of universities, which play an important role in Hanbok research and education, professional research and training are shrinking in graduate schools, whereas Hanbok subjects are being maintained and new subjects are being taught in undergraduate courses. In the fashion Hanbok era, it has been suggested that Hanbok education needs to converge with design and marketing education, beyond teaching only Hanbok. In addition, the necessity of expanding liberal arts education within universities to meet social demand was proposed, and online education was expected to help spread knowledge.
This study explores the opportunities for new market of traditional Korean costumes, Hanbok, following not only the consumer's needs and wants, but marketing trends of fashion industry. This paper is the exploratory consumer research of fusion Hanbok, it aims at examining how consumers wear fusion Hanbok. Study participants were limited to mothers who wore Korean-fusion Hanbok to their baby's first birthday party once or more. A total of 221 respondents completed online questionnaires. The results of this study are as follows. First, regarding the reasons of wearing fusion Hanbok is a beautiful and traditional dress although traditional Hanbok is uncomfortable and inconvenient. Second, the most satisfactory aspect of fusion Hanbok was found to be its design. Satisfaction with the color, size and length was also high. Third, most female consumers in their 20s and 30s have stronger preferences for and intentions of purchasing fusion Hanbok. Some people criticize that as fusion Hanbok is westernized in its designs and materials, it has lost the classical beauty and impression of traditional Hanbok. However, if no one routinely wears Hanbok, Hanbok will never be popularized or globalized. This study suggest that traditional Hanbok should be improved by developing effective merchandising strategies based on consumer needs for traditional Hanbok such as various product assortment and promotion strategies using traditional Korean beauty. So, traditional Hanbok could be retained and succeeded in the future by improving consumers' dissatisfactions of traditional Hanbok and creating the new market of traditional Hanbok in which fusion Hanbok are produced focused on consumers' needs and market environments.
In this study, we have focused on various types of costumes for traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae. To analyze their costumes, spot photographs of Ganggangsullae contests from 2011 and 2013 were collected from the Department of Culture and Tourism, Jindo County Office and the Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Costumes were analyzed by categorising them as type, shape and color. Traditional Ganggangsullae costumes are two types: traditional hanbok and saenghwal hanbok. Traditional hanbok design dates back to the late Joseon dynasty and saenghwal hanbok design to the middle Joseon Dynasty. They reflects confucianism, a male-dominated society, totemism, shamanism and Yin-Yang and the five elements theory in agrarian society and community life. Daily dance Ganggangsullae has various types of costumes such as the fusion hanbok, saenghwal hanbok, cheering uniform and casual wear. They show modern color schemes. There is not any magical meaning from Yin-Yang and the five elements theory. Instead, they have individualism, liberty, equality and welfare in information-oriented society. So its costumes are easy and comfortable clothes. But traditional hanbok, fusion hanbok and saenghwal hanbok are inspired from Korean identiry. Even though traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae have different costumes and ideology, they have a common denominator 'playfulness.' It will function as a key for Ganggangsullae to be performed continuously over the period.
Recently, it is one of the popular fashion and cultural events that people of the younger generation put on a hanbok and take a picture together with communicating by SNS. For this reason, the rent-hanbok market takes a big part of the Korean traditional costume market. Therefor, the recognition of hanbok is changed from the style of uncomfortable and ceremonial clothes, to becoming popular as everyday dress in the younger generation. The various designs of the rental hanbok show two different opinions. One is the increasing popular and general public interest and demand for wearing and showing off traditional hanbok fashions in a positive outlook. Another is the case of the wrong stereotype and knowledge for traditional costume which results in a negative outlook for this type of fashion statement. This study is to look into renting hanbok jeogori for women in Seoul and in Junju. There are 39 styles available in joegori. That being noted, the traditional jeogori has seop and git with dongjung. But it is seen that rental jeogoris do not have the seop, or have the dongjung position as similar to the Po as seen on the men's coat. The showy and colorful materials feel bad and are poorly ventilated. And excessive price competition causes a decreased quality of renting hanbok. Now the rental hanbok business needs to change; to have to make renting hanbok with the correct historical understanding, and it is necessary to have to stop the indiscriminate acceptance of foreign culture.
Korea and Japan, neighboring two nations, have similar cultural background and complicated relations in terms of their culture and constitution. In this study, clothing microclimate and subjective sensation of Korean and Japanese subjects for Hanbok, traditional costumes of Korea, were assessed and investigated differences between them. The results of the study were as follows. For Hanbok, the temperature within clothing at the chest have significant correlations with the variables of race and elapsed time with p<0.001. At the thigh, correlations with elapsed time were significant (p<0.001). For the humidity within clothing at the chest of Hanbok, correlations with variables of race were significant (p<0.001). At the thigh, correlations with race and elapsed time were significant(p<0.001). For Hanbok, Korean group reported 'slightly warm' whereas Japanese group reported 'hot' in the thermal sensation. For the humid sensation, Korean group reported 'neutral' and Japanese group reported 'humid'. For the comfort sensation, Korean group reported 'slightly uncomfortable' and Japanese group reported 'uncomfortable'. Japanese group reported high relation with comfort sensation and humidity of microclimate.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of Hanbok pattern research published in journals and theses. We collected 70 articles related to the Hanbok pattern. The articles were divided into 7 chronicles based on publishing year, and analyzed by journal, publishing year, research theme, wearing subject and research pattern. Researches can be categorized into journals, university research paper, and master's theses. After 1981, studies on the pattern of Hanbok have been continuing. Most researches were focused on traditional Hanbok, especially about Jeogori. Research on modernized Hanbok started from Vchronicle(2001~2005), but it has not progressed anymore. According to the analysis on wearing subject, the number of research for female Hanbok was almost three times that of the male. Most researches were performed on adult Hanbok, and subjects were expanded to children, adolescents and middle-aged. The body shape of the wearer did not mentioned on many articles. Pattern researches started from excavated costume, but most researches were about commercial patterns. These researches on the pattern on Hanbok have shown an increasing tendency as the years passed, but researches on modernized Hanbok, including Hanbok pattern development for modern life style should be conducted more actively. In an aging society, as the number of middle-aged consumers increases, pattern research on middle-aged or older people and their various body shapes should be necessary.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.12
no.3
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pp.121-132
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2010
The purpose of this research was to analyze the Korean Formative-Artistic Characteristics which were expressed by Hanbok designers. In this research, Hanbok style is a combination of two main things: formative-artistic factors of the Korean past, which naturally focuses on the peculiarity of the tradition and the modern aspects of clothing. Hanbok fashion is defined as all products created by Hanbok designers that incorporate traditional design factors, but do not follow it exactly. There are four formative-artistic characteristics of Korean designs in the Hanbok fashion. The first is the practical usage of the form and the second is the application of texture, color and patterns of materials which are synonymous with traditional Korean costumes; the third, by utilizing specific features, such as a the string of Jeogori(jacket), the round line of Jeogori sleeve, quilting, slit of Dofo (coat), the line of goreum and git (collar), the beauty of the Hanbok can be expressed in various ways; finally, the decorations added to the clothing, like embroidery, dying, patchwork, and beaten silver have been used to express Korean beauty in a modern sense. At the conclusion of the research, the study suggests the following recommendations to upgrade the Hanbok designs and the Hanbok industry. The first recommendation is that continuous design research be done for the development and popularity of the brand image; secondly, collaboration with specialists from other areas of fashion would be beneficial; thirdly, it would be a positive development if Hanbok designers studied Western clothing; and fourthly, Hanbok materials should continue to evolve and be developed.
Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.20
no.1
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pp.125-136
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2018
This study classified and analyzed the assignments for the Hanbok skill contests between 1998 and 2017 so that the Korean hanbok can be properly passed down. this study proposes a variety of useful values for the Hanbok culture industry by providing basic data on various Hanbok making techniques to the Hanbok artisan. The results of the analysis of 39 assignments for the Hanbok skill contest are as follows. Firstly, The 20 assignments presented in the Local Skills Competitions consisted of 13 tasks (65%) in formal wear and 7 tasks (35%) in casual wear. Formal wear is mainly comprised of men's and children's wear (85.7%). There are Pungcha Baji, Sagusam, Kkachi Durumagi, Jeonbok & Bokgeon, Durumagi, and others on the formal wear of men'schildren's wear. In casual wear, 66.7% of women's wear such as scarves, skirts, jeogori, Hwejang Jeogori & chima were on the list of assignments. Secondly, All of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were in adult suits. Thirteen tasks (68.4%) were in formal wear and 6 tasks (31.6%) were in casual wear. Nine out of the 13 formal wear tasks (69.2%) were men's clothes. In 6 assignments of the casual wear, men's and women's clothes were presented three times each. Formal wear that had many assignments was the men's Chulik, which was presented three times in 2006, 2008 and 2016. Thirdly, Eighteen (90%) of the 20 assignments presented at the Local Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and the remaining 2 (10%) were for unlined clothes. Eleven tasks (57.9%) out of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and 8 tasks (42.1%) were for unlined clothes.
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