• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• Preventive Nutrition and Food Science
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.333-338
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• 2011

In this study, antioxidative and anti-inflammatory activities of the herb (cinnamon, clove, glehnia root, ginger, violet-root cromwell, licorice, citrus peel and longan) extracts used for gamhongroju, one of the popular liqueurs in Korea, were investigated. Twenty grams of individual herbs were extracted in 60% purified ethanol and freeze-dried. A mixture of the individual herb extracts (HEM) was separately prepared. Cytotoxicity of the individual extracts and HEM on murine RAW264.7 macrophage cells were examined along with their recovering activity on $H_2O_2$-treated RAW264.7 cells. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of the extract-treated cells were determined by measuring superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GPx) activities, and Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC), nitric oxide (NO) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) levels. Violet-root cromwell extract showed the least cytotoxicity in terms of treated concentration. Most of the extracts, below levels of cytotoxicity, recovered the $H_2O_2$-treated cells. Treatment with some of the extracts increased SOD and GPx activities and TEAC levels while a majority inhibited the production of NO and PGE2 in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated cells.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.31-48
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• 2013

It goes without saying that Yi Mae-Bang, as the sole owner of two of the intangible cultural assets including No. 27 Seungmu in 1987 and No. 97 Salpuri Chum, is a top-notch Korean traditional dancer. Moreover, in regards to traditional clothing, he is also known as the only traditional dancer who directly performs on stage as well as analyzes traditional clothing in order to apply them into his own dance performances by designing and producing them to meet his artistic spirit. In order to examine how Yi Mae-Bang's unique and creative stage clothing was developed, and what kind of process it went through to possess its unique style, which draws the attentions of people with its harmony of beauty and dance, this research first examined the change of the composition through the yearly picture data. Before 1984, the composition of the Salpuri Chum clothes changed by putting on 'Jeogori' on the 'Mudong-Bok' without the 'Kweia' (sleeveless), and in 1999 'Mudong-Bok' became widened with the decoration of embroidered hem making it more attractively colorful. after 2000 it became more splendidly adorned by embroidering hem on widened Mudong-Bok and tucking 'Kweja' in the layers which created silhouette like a dress that is seemingly wider and luxuriant than a skirt. One of notable features of Yi Mae-Bang's Salpuri is that its cloth and cuff ribbons are lightly colored in different colors enclosing the tip part. As for the ribbons, it was also changed as time went by from direct-cutting of the cloth just like the A-line of Mudong-Bok to drawing a diagonal line less than 5cm above the ribbon and 8cm below the ribbon so that it takes the form of getting widened as it gets to the lower part, and its length was also elongated in proportion to that of the bottom of Mudong-Bok.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.532-542
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• 2014

This study developed a practical knitwear design with applying the pattern of Queen Yeong's pearl pouch. The ume flower pattern of pearl pouch was simplified to be one repeat pattern, and four simulated knit pattern samples of G-A, G-B, R-A, and R-Bwere made with cable, cross, and two background colors of gray and red using Texpro V.11.0. The items of design application were selected after an interview with a panel of university students in their twenties and knit samples were produced by hand knitting. The small sized G-A for the partial ornament of hat, sweater, skirt, kitchenware case and accessories; the long sized G-B for the tuck of sleeves, hem of skirt and one-piece dress, partial ornament of sweater, scarf, and curtain decoration: the small sized R-A was preferred for point ornament of pouch, boots, hat, partial ornament of children's fashion products and accessories: the long sized R-B for table runner, leg warmer, tuck of sleeves, skirt hem, necktie, and scarf. The knit samples were formulated with partial ornaments attached on dress and props or connected each other. Colors of pastel and navy were also presented to meet the demands of panels. The study placed a limit on the slight difference between the simulation samples and knit samples due to the characteristics of threads and hand tension. The color variation for multiple coordination and activation to reduce the piece rate for young customers remains to be discussed in the near future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.454-464
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• 2012

In this study, fitness tests for slacks were divided into shape fitness test and motion fitness test, and the fitness test conditions for slacks were designed as the first step for standardization of measuring scales. Shape fitness test consisted of analyzing the parameters of appearance sensory tests as described in preceding studies, performing a simulated appearance sensory test, collecting and considering apparel experts' opinions about the test parameters, and establishing test conditions in terms of test regions, descriptions and faces. For the regions of the abdomen, hip, crotch, thighs, and knees, the parameter of unnecessary wrinkle/stretch was observed from the anterior and posterior body, and then evaluated; for waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the parameters of ease and horizontality were observed from the anterior body and posterior body followed by evaluation; and, at the levels of waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the division of the lateral line were observed from the lateral body followed by evaluation. Motion fitness test was composed of reviewing and analyzing comparatively the methods of motion fitness tests as mentioned in preceding studies, and establishing test conditions in terms of test motions and test regions. For each of the waist, abdomen, hip, crotch, and knees, wear sensation was tested in the positions as follows: upright standing, moderate walking, chairsitting, bending forward to the maximum, and kneeling down, provided that as the measured points of garment pressure, anterior waist, abdominal protrusion, buttock protrusion, crotch, and midpatella were set and tested.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.175-186
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• 1993

The present study was designed to find out the construction conditions of tight skirt for sale in relation to its brand, target age and length. The 15 tight skirts each from 3 brand groups(designer character, national and minor brand) of 2 target age groups(youth and middle age) and the 15 tight skirts each from 3 skirt length groups(mini, natural line and maxi) of only the minor brand-a total of the 120 tight skirts on the market-were measured. The data were analyzed with use of SAS package. The statistics were based on frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, one-way ANOVA, two-way ANOVA, Pearson's correlation and linear regression analysis. The main results were as follows. 1. There were significant differences in the construction conditions of tight skirt according to its brand and target age. There was a significant difference particurarly in the difference between hip girth and hem girth according to brand target age. The difference between hip girth and hem girth of designer's character brand skirt was larger than that of national brand & minor brand skirt, and that of skirt targeting the youth was larger than that of skirt targeting the middle aged. 2. There were significant difference particurarly in the differences in the construction conditions of tight skirt according to its length. There was a significant difference particurarly in the difference between hip girth and he girth according to skirt length, and that of maxi skirt was larger than that of mini & natural line skirt. There was a good correlation between skirt length and slit length and between skirt length and skirt length above the slit. The longer the skirt length was, the longer the slit length and the skirt length above the slit were.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.71-86
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• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.152-168
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a design prototype of outdoor-wear which is suitable for trekking. For achieving this purpose, 6 factors(bodice, sleeve, hood, pockets, opening, hem-line) considered for clothing function were selected, classified, and complemented based on the survey of literature and the research of 185 designs in 12 outdoor-wear brands. The results are as follows; The removable hood and 4DM sleeve style with the elastic band and velcro for the cuffs was the most preferred in the detail design on the brand research. And also the ventilation function and 1 or 2 diagonal in-seam pocket, covered zipper was preferred. Based on this result, two design prototypes of men's outdoor-wear for trekking were suggested; jacket 1 has a slim waist line and a hip length. Front opening has a zip and placket for windproof effect. There is a detachable hood with stopper around the head line. 4DM sleeve and elastic band inserted at the end of sleeve, so that prevent the hem-line raising. Two inseam pocket is placed slightly diagonal. Jacket 2 is a hood jacket with a york. The Jacket has a little roomier in waist and a hip length. Front opening is fastened by a waterproof zip. It has a 4DM sleeve and a princess line to make it placed two pocket which have ventilation functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.624-629
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• 2010

Nardostachys jatamansi water extract (NJ) has long been used for the treatment of inflammation-and immune-mediated disorders in the oriental countries. However, its site of action and pharmacological mechanism are not fully investigated. In this study, the authors tried to explore the cytoprotective and anti-inflammatory actions of NJ. First of all, NJ has no harmful effects on viability of neuronal cell line HT22 cells in the dose range of 300 mg/ml. On the contrary, it shows cytoprotective effects on the cells treated with reactive oxygen species H2O2. Probably the cytoprotective effects of NJ might be caused by its ability to induce well known cytoprotective gene hem oxygenase-1 (HO-1). Furthermore, NJ shows inhibitory effects on the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) and NO production which are known to destroy the integrity of both cells and tissues. It also inhibits potent proinflammatory cytokine tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-a) production. The blocking effects of NJ on cytopathic and proinflammatory actions of LPS might be caused by the induction of cytoprotective and anti-inflammatory genes HO-1 in macrophages cell line RAW 264.7 cells. The results in this study suggest NJ could be used for the amelioration of inflammation which is underlying mechanism responsible for most chronic diseases.