• Title/Summary/Keyword: Gwango

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An Analysis of the Style of Kogufo Costume -Trousers- (고구려 복식의 양식 분석 -고구려 바지를 중심으로-)

  • Hong Na Young;Lee Mi-Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.2 s.92
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    • pp.82-91
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of trousers of Koguryo(高句麗). Trousers of Koguryo were called Go(袴: trousers) and those had various forms according to the shape of gusset(dang, 糖), width and length of the trousers. Commonly the trousers that had worn by Koguryo people had gausset in those bottom not to be shown hip. The gausset was cut triangle or square so if a person wear the trouser with the triangular gausset, the trouser has a pointed hip. Sometimes the trousers had non pointed hips were dicovered in the wall-paintings of the Koguryo tombs, they are thought the trousers that had no gaussets or square one. And also there were another trousers that had wide/narrow legs and long/short legs. Trousers of wide legs were called Gwango(寬袴) and narrow legs Sego(細袴). Gwango(寬袴) grew wider over time and in the late age, the trousers were called Daegugo(大口袴) with wide ends were worn. Trousers were also decorated elaborately with patches on the edges, leg ties, vents, etc.

Types and Characteristics of the Baekje Costume Focusing on the Related Relics and Remains (유물을 통해 본 백제 복식의 유형과 특성)

  • Kwon, Young-Suk;Lee, Joo-Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.6 no.5
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    • pp.565-574
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the historical background and basic composition of costume of the Baekje period. Main official hats of Baekje include the transformed hat, jougwan and daeryun-style ipsikgwan. Daeryun-style ipsikgwan employed chowha shape in most cases, symbolizing good auspice under the harmony of the male and female principles. Main types of costume of the Baekje period are po, yu, go and sang. The king, governmental officials and the common people all put on po of jikryeong gyoim style. Yu' is classified into two styles, chaksu with the narrow sleeve and daesu with the broad one. 'Go' has two styles, gunggo and gwango. The former is narrow in the breadth of the trouser and the latter, wide. 'Sang' is classified into various style according to whether it contains stripes of many colors, thin wrinkles or thick wrinkles. For the decoration of official hat used in the period of the Three Kingdoms, Baekje employed chowha in shape, Kokuryo, chowha and joik and Shilla, joik. In Baekje, rhythmic patterns of flame were applied to official hats, presenting brilliance. In Shilla, shaking geumyeongrak was used for official hats to show movement. In Kokuryo, such hats used flapping feathers, symbolizing dynamic power. Most necklaces and bracelets of the Baekje period were simple and plain.