• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1347-1358
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• 2011

This study purposed to analyze differences in body measurement between the 2D direct body measuring method and the 3D body scan measuring method and to perform the appearance evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation of the fit of pants to which body measurements obtained by each measuring method were applied. Body measuring was conducted in 10 women in their 20s-30s using 2D direct body measuring and 3D automatic measuring with Hamamatsu body scanner. Among the 10 women, 3 participated in experimental garment wearing. Experimental pants were made using their 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements, and wearing tests were performed through expert evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation. The results of the experiment were as follows. According to the results of comparative analysis on differences between 2D direct body measurements and 3D scan measurements, 3D automatic measurements were significantly larger in bust circumference, ankle circumference, armscye circumference, shoulder length, scye depth, and arm length. As circumferences measured with the 3D body scanner were somewhat larger than directly measured ones, it is suggested to adjust ease when using existing pattern making methods. We prepared experimental garments by the same pattern making method through applying body measurements obtained with the two measuring methods, and assessed the fit of the garment comparatively through expert evaluation and 3D scan cross-sectional evaluation. According to the results, 2D-pants using 2D direct body measurements was slightly tighter than 3D-pants using 3D measurements in waist circumference, hip circumference, and abdominal circumference. In the results of comparing appearance in terms of the fit of the experimental garment in each subject, significant difference was observed in most of the compared items. This result suggests that 3D automatic body measuring data may show different accuracy according to body shape and therefore it is necessary to examine difference between 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements according to body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Crystal Growth and Crystal Technology
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.508-512
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• 1998

The NTC thermistors were sintered by using microwave hybrid heating method at $1100^{\circ}C$~$1300^{\circ}C$ and those electrical properties were investigated. The obtained $B_{25^{\circ}C/85^{\circ}C}$ values from temperature dependence of electrical resisitivity were around 3100~3200 K which were almost the same values as conventionally sintered ones. Compared with conventional sintering process, this process could complete whole sintering process within 20 minutes. This the processing time and energy consumption could be reduced through this rapid heating by using microwave hybrid heating.t there were showed only two peaks, glycolide melting peak and lower molecular weight melting peak without lauryl alcohol. Conversion increased slowly with the reaction time up to 50 minutes, and then gave a sudden increase above that. The reaction time to disappear in glycolide melting peak during polymerization was shortened with the increase of lauryl alcohol content. Zero-shear viscosity of polyglycolic acid decreased with the increase of free acid content in glycolide.ssional energy and bending hysteresis increased. \circled3 Surface characteristics such as friction coefficient and thickness variation of highly shrinkage fabrics became relatively roughened state. \circled4 Since stiffened and roughened characteristics of highly shrinkage fabrics, drapabilities of them were significantly lowered. Additionally thermal insulation property of high shrinkage fabric was higher than that of low shrinkage fabric due to bulky and thickened feature. From the results, it is considered that the silk fabrics with high filling shrinkage have the good bulkiness and heat keeping properties and thus they have the suitable characteristics for high quality men's and women's formal garments.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.13-29
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• 2015

This study examined whether any differences were found in body comparison, body satisfaction, and appearance management behaviors according to socialcultural attitudes toward appearance among male and female adolescents in Gwangju and Jeolla province. It was conducted by a self-report survey of 598 male and female students in eigth and eleventh grades in Gwangju and Jeonnam province, South Korea. The collected survey data were analyzed by Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, Factor analysis, ${\chi}^2$ test, K-means cluster analysis, t-test, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's grouping using SPSS/PC WIN 19.0 statical program. The results were as the following: Adolescents perceived and internalized more highly than the common level the socialcultural value toward appearance, especially for female, and by age, juniors in high school than in middle school. Socialcultural attitudes toward appearance could be classified into four categories: 'Accepted type', 'internal type', 'aware type', and 'unaccepted type'. Students who were classified as 'accepted type', and 'internal type' showed lower level of body satisfaction and compared their bodies more often with others. They also actively received appearance management behaviors. Therefore, they showed positive attitude toward cosmetic surgery and functional garments. They also worked hard to reduce their weights just to show off to others. In conclusion, it is necessary for education programs to protect self-esteem of adolescents from the socialcultural distortion to appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.860-868
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• 2009

To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. The grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform. Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group $20{\sim}49$ years, and the size increments including $155\sim165$ of height section and $79\sim94$ of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the bi-directional grading method subdivided in horizontal and vertical direction was followed by factor analysis based on the circumference and height. And the grading rules were calculated by regression analysis.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.853-863
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• 2000

This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.25-35
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• 1998

This thesis is a study of Kas ya, robes of buddhist monk, which is having peculiarity among human clothes. I kept my attention mainly on the symbolism of the color of Kas ya. To elucidate this, I chose the principle of T -chi and Yin-yang and Wu-shing as a frame-work of interpretation. In the first place, the original meaning of Kas ya mean a name of peculiar color. The concrete names of the color are color of persimmons juice, brown, yellow tinged with red, radish brown, non-primary color etc. The main motive to dye three robes of buddhist monk from white or primary color to the color of Kas ya was to differentiate buddhist monks from heathen or laymen. Therefore, as luxurious and primary colored cloths was donated to the buddhist monks, they are necessary to discolor them. Accordingly. they established 'non-primary color' as well-mate one for a ascetic. The non-primary color is called discolored color' as a result of discoloring primary colors. The discolored color is a synonym of Kas ya and the process of discoloring is necessary for making robes of buddhist monk. Secondly, discoloring means to mash five primary color. That is say, the process of discoloring means to return five primary colors back to 'profoundity·abstruseness·obscurity, namely darkness' as the source of them. Darkness as a condition amalgamated and not appeared all materials is the source and at the same time the terminus of all colors. Therefore, color of Kas ya symbolizes 'profound color' as the ultimate meaning of discoloring. Thirdly, discoloring garments of buddhist monk symbolize to destroy evil passions and haughtiness arising in ascetic's mind as well as means don't attach to the shaped materials'. Fourthly, discoloring means to return 'color'. namely 'all kinds of shaped material' to the inherent nature. Process of discoloring means to reture to the empty. nya. nya essentially do not make any colors, but over and over again come into being and become extinct as becoming colors. R pa, by one time Yin and the other time Yang'. R pa, color is a metaplasia of nya and nya is discoloring one of all colors. Then, discoloring means R pa is nya, R pa is nya at the same time and Because this is another expression of Dharma the original meaning of Kas ya symbolize true robes. Consequently, Kas ya means truth and beyond time and space do not be changed and conserve the color of the first till now.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1950-1962
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• 2008

Today the importance of color image is increasing for the brands as well as the products. This study was performed to classily the color image of baby's wear brands and to suggest how the color is effectively planned for the image. In order to classify the color image of 7 baby's wear brands, color palettes of 7 brands were also made by 6 subgroups, each season(summer, fall) by gender(boy, girl, new-born) and based on manufactured garments which were collected by on-line shops. Questionaries were organized with 40 pieces of the color palettes prints for 6 subgroups by 7 brands and 20 baby's wear image adjectives. The total 320 copies were used in the survey to students majored in fashion design. Questionaries were analyzed by factor analysis from SPSS 12.0 package program. There are 4 main factors for the color images of baby's wear brands, 'liveliness', 'loveliness', 'chic', 'neatness'. Not hue, but tone is more important to express the characteristics of color images of baby's wear brands. Also white and black are importantly used for baby's wear. The consistency of the brand color image across gender and season is very important to identify and strengthen the color image of brand.