Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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v.23
no.11
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pp.111-122
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2018
The purpose of this study was to investigate the bodice prototype method suitable for the upper body shape of old-old aged women using the 3D anthropometric data. And it was to provide the basic data for the upper body garments of old-old aged women. In the overall appearance evaluation, the B pattern was rated as 4.00, and it was evaluated as the most suitable for the bodice prototype of the old-old aged woman. The E pattern was rated lower than normal, and the L pattern and the S pattern were found to be inadequate for older female bodice prototypes. As a result of the measurement of the waist and bust air gap of bodice prototype, the air gap of the bust was not significantly different between the patterns. But the waist air gap showed the largest difference between the L pattern and the S pattern. As a result of evaluating the appearance, the amount of space in the state of 3D simulation, and the air gap, the pattern B appeared to be the most appropriate prototype for the old-old aged women's body shape. However, there is a tendency that the shoulder end point is biased toward the back, so it is necessary to set the inclination of the back shoulder line to be more gentle. Conversely, the front shoulder should be more inclined. In the case of the 3D simulation, the B pattern showed that the other parts generally fit well. In the case of the 3D simulation program used in this study, it was evaluated that it is suitable only for the normal body shape because it is impossible to set the isometric angle which is one of the characteristics of the older female body shape. A study on the bodice prototype suitable for the bent body shape should be carried out through experiments on the actual body shape of various elderly women. In order to cope with the increase of elderly people who are familiar with digital, I think it is necessary to develop an avatar that reflects the old female body shape.
The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern of elderly women aged over 60s by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new slacks pattern considered elderly women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows, front waist girth W/4+2+1.5, back waist girth W/4+1.5+0.5, front hip girth H/4+0.75, back hip girth H/4+1.5, front crotch extension H/16-0.5, back crotch extension H/8-1.3, front dart amount 2 and back dart amount 1.5. Second, according to the results of the new slacks pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new slacks pattern is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, new slacks pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.
One way of appling 3D printing to garments is through the combination of 3D polymer filaments in textile fabrics. it is essential to understand the interface between the polymer and the 3D composite fabric in order to enhance the adhesion strength between the polymers and the peeling strength between the fabric and the polymer. In this study, the adhesion of composite printed specimens using a combination of fabric and polymers for 3D printing was investigated, and also the change in adhesion was investigated after the composite fabric printed with polymers was subjected to constant pressure. Through this process, the aims to help develop and utilize 3D printing textures by providing basic data to enhance durability of 3D printing composite fabrics. The measure of the peeling strength of the composite fabric prepared by printing on a fabric using PLA, TPU, Nylon polymer was obtained as follows; TPU polymer for 3D printing showed significantly higher peel strength than polymers of composite fabric using PLA and Nylon polymer. In the case of TPU polymer, the adhesive was crosslinked because of the reaction between polyurethane and water on the surface of the fabric, thus increasing the adhesion. It could be observed that the adhesion between the polymer and the fiber is determined more by the mechanical effect rather than by its chemical composition. To achieve efficient bonding of the fibers, it is possible to modify the fiber surface mechanically and chemically, and consider the deposition process in terms of temperature, pressure and build density.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.45
no.5
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pp.881-891
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2021
This study proposes a simple drape measurement method for the 3D virtualization of garments. The proposed method uses angles or disks of different diameters to evaluate the drape properties easily. We divided 710 fabrics into ten groups based on the drape coefficient, of which 49.6% had drape coefficients of 30 or less. The drape properties were measured to classify the groups into smaller clusters using the angle formed when the center of the fabric was fixed. Accordingly, three clusters were formed for 60° and 100° angles. A method was devised using ten disks of different diameters to classify the remaining two clusters, except the cluster containing only the D10 group (D1-D5 and D5-D9). Three criteria-grade match, a sum of deviation, and standardization of deviation-were used for the classifications. The discriminative ability between groups was high for D1-D5 with disks with 24.0 and 25.5 cm diameters. Furthermore, a disk with a diameter of 16.5 cm was effective for D5-D9. The three-dimensional drape shapes were unique for the ten groups, which can be utilized as fundamental data for 3D virtualization.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.44
no.6
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pp.1037-1052
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2020
This study evaluates the comfort and suitability of safety clothing. We made three safety clothes 'y', 'lg', 'lgH'. Only 'y' made with fluorescence fabric has passed International Standards (ISO 20471). A wearing test investigated the physiological response and subjective sensations at 30℃ and 50% RH, six men participated. Mean skin temperature and tympanic temperature showed significant difference with experimental course (p<.05). The micro-temperature (Tm) showed significant differences between three garments on the thigh (p<.01). When wearing 'lg', Tm was the highest. Micro-humidity indicated the interaction between clothing and the experimental course on the chest with no significant difference; however, there was a low tendency when wearing 'lgH' after the second half of exercise. The sweat rate indicated a significant difference between 'lg' and 'lgH' at 20 minutes of exercise (p<.05). Three sensations showed significant differences with the time (p<.01), there was also a tendency to feel hotter and more humid when wearing 'lg'. Skin sensation showed significant differences between pre-experiment and post-experiment (p<.05), 'y' was the most preferred. The 'lg' with long-sleeved currently worn in Korea tended to feel hotter, more humid and more uncomfortable than 'y'. It indicates that there is room for improvement in Korean safety clothing.
This study aims to develop a life-friendly, wrap-one-piece style dance sports practice wear considering the physical characteristics of middle-aged, abdominally obese women. These types of practice wear allow people to enjoy exercise easily and to wear these garments as daily wear while meeting the requirements for dance sports wear. The three participants selected for this study were all women with five or more years of dance sports experience and were all average sized on Korea's abdominal obesity scale. In the first phase of the study, practice wear was created in a total of nine styles with three different styles of neckline depths for three different styles of dress skirt lengths. In the second phase of the study, the practice wear was created in 15 styles with five different styles of sleeve lengths for three different styles of waistline heights. After analyzing the design preferences of the participants, the fit preferences of the designs were evaluated and the final appearance was analyzed in order to suggest a pattern. The results of the subjects' first and second preference evaluations showed a preference for a 10 centimeter neckline depth, for high waistlines, and for elbow to wrist-length sleeves. The implementation of this research is expected to be extensive, as its results can be used as basic data for making lifestyle dance sports practice wear that covers the physical insecurities of middle-aged, abdominally obese women and enables them to enjoy their leisure time.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.22
no.4
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pp.63-78
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2020
Korean Chinese, immigrants to China, have developed their own traditional costume culture. This paper aims to analyze the traditional costume culture of the Korean Chinese and to provide data for posterity. The research methods are literature research, survey research, and analysis research. The results are as follows: According to the changes over generations, the top of women's Hanbok has changed in length as has the jeogori (jacket), the git (collar), and the gooreum (breast-tie). The width of the git, dong-jeong (thin white cloth-covered paper collar of Hanbok), the sleeve, and gooreum have also changed. The git and the barae (the curve part of the sleeve) have changed from straight patterns to curves. The skirt had changed in wrinkles arrangement, length, and silhouette. The men's Hanbok jeogori and sleeves were lengthened; the pants became wider and were lengthened, and the collar also became curved. The vest has not changed and the du-ru-ma-gi (coat) that once disappeared is being worn again; the bae-ja (vest) and magoja (over-jacket) are worn frequently in modern times. The garments mainly used natural fiber until the development of synthetic fibers, but the treand has been the use of luxurious natural fibers in modern times. The initial color pattern was achromatic, but that changed with the appearance of synthetic fibers, and nowadays it is mainly the garmetnt can display a variety of colors. In addition, hairstyles and shoes have been eveolved from traditional to modern styles.
The aim of this study is to investigate morphological characteristics of Hanbok images in children's books and propose a direction for the modernization and globalization of traditional culture. This study examines 43 children's books by contemporary foreign illustrators that contain Hanbok illustrations and analyzes them from postcolonial perspective. The results include the following three attributes: first, the transformation of clothing structure and donning method that confuse fundamentals of Korean costume; second, the Westernization of silhouette drawing with tailored garments analogous to Western dress; and third, extension to East Asian dress that represents Hanbok mixed with Chinese or Japanese costume and use what is considered to be the East Asian patterns instead of Korean traditional ones. These attributes are based on Eurocentrism, which expresses and interprets the East from the Western view point with continuously distorted image of the East. Korean illustrators also painted Hanbok incorrectly, which could influence foreign illustrators. Nevertheless, traditional dress illustrated in various ways has artistic value and has a popular global impression. Further, it enables children to experience either own or other cultures through dress illustrations. Thus, the outsider requires an in-depth understanding of other cultures, while the insider needs a critical perception of their own culture as described by others while revisiting the original resources. Furthermore, we suggest follow-up research on Hanbok for subsequent generations; publishing translated books on various topics, producing and disseminating a primer for diverse readers, and essentially receiving counsel from experts.
Unlike other processes such as washing, the ironing process in the laundry process is difficult to standardize and thus relies on manual labor. Unlike upper garments, pants have pleats at the waist as well as a crease line below the waist, Therefore, two separate ironing devices have been developed and used. However, in this method, problems such as additional worker input, space loss, and wrinkling of pants occur due to manual movement between processes, Consequently, a pants ironing device that combines the two equipments is required. The all-in-one pants ironing system described in this paper automatically sequentially irons the upper part and side of the pants regardless of the length, shape, and upper pleats of the pants. It also performs a self-diagnosis function while displaying the ironing progress on the user's monitor. As a result of this study, it became possible to double the amount of ironing and reduce power consumption by more than 20% compared to the case of using two independent equipment.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.24
no.2
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pp.85-95
/
2022
This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.
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