• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.595-601
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• 2017

Advances in 3D garment simulation technology contribute greatly to consumers becoming more immersed in movies and games by realistically expressing the garments the characters in the movie or game are wearing. The fashion industry has reached a point where it needs to maximize efficiency in production and distribution to go beyond time and space in order to compete on the global market. The processes of design and product development in the fashion industry require countless hours of work and consume vast resources in terms of materials and energy to repeat sample production and assessment. Therefore, the design and product development tools and techniques must aim to reduce the sample making process. Therefore, this study aims to study a case for comparing the real garment sample making process to the virtual garment sample making process. In this study, we have analysed the differences between the real and virtual garment making processes by choosing designated patterns. As we can see from the study results, the real and virtual garments generally are made through similar processes in manufacturing, while the time consumed for each shows great variation. In real garment making, scissoring and sewing require the greatest number of work hours, whereas in virtual garment making, most of the time was spent in the simulation process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.28-42
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• 2017

Moisture transfer characteristics of high emotional garments are important to evaluate wear comfort. Wicking and drying measurement methods are also critical for perspiration absorption and quick dry fabric made of high functional fibers. In this study, the wicking and drying properties of high emotional fabrics made from hybrid composite yarns using CoolMax, Tencel, Bamboo staple fibers and PP. PET CoolMax filaments were also measured and analyzed according to various measuring methods. The wicking property of hybrid composite yarn fabrics by Bireck method was mostly influenced by the structure of hybrid yarns than the absorption rate of constituent fibers; however, both the hygroscopicity of fibers and the composite yarn structure affected the wicking property of the fabrics in the drop method. Concerning drying properties, the KSK 0815B method measuring distilled moisture weight was more relevant to explain the drying characteristics of hybrid yarn fabrics than the KSK 0815A method measuring the time to drying. This study revealed that the drying properties of hybrid yarn fabrics were influenced by the hygroscopicity of constituent fibers, wicking properties of constituent yarns and structure of composite yarns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.60-70
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• 2017

This study selects representative materials and sewing methods used to: produce medical compression clothing in domestic garment, understand physical properties according to sewing conditions before and after knitting, and propose a sewing method that can improve the functional properties of the medical pressure clothing for burn patients. This experiment used samples from two knitted fabrics of high-frequency, produced and sold among fabrics used to produce medical compression clothing in Korea. Sewing methods were N321, N502 and N601, most commonly used in the press clothing industry. Fabric A is most often reduced in EMT values when sewing N502. However, N321 and N502 are suitable sewing methods for the reliable to twist at the larger torsional shear and the larger 2HG, 2HG5 value. Fabric B is sewn with N601, the EMT value is the most elevated, LT value is also low and extensibility improves after sewing. N601 is shown as an appropriate sewing method for warp knitting. When sewing with N321, the torsional is stable but elongation is lacking. N502 is not good for torsional stability.

• Proceedings of the Korean DIstribution Association Conference
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• 1999.11a
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• pp.161-177
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• 1999

Marketing channels have been characterized as social systems by the recent channel literatures. Under this assumption, many channel behavioral theories were developed by examining hypothetical relationships among several channel variables. Among them, interrelationship of channel cooperation with other variables has been one of major concerns to channel managers. From this point of view, the objective of this paper is to examine the role of cooperation in the franchise system of garments goods. In order to achieve our goal, data was collected from garment retailers and a simple random sample of 150 dealers was drawn and tested. Major findings through the data analysis are as follows : 1. Higher levels of dependence lead to higher levels of cooperation. 2. Noncoercive sources of power tends to increase intrachannel cooperation. However, the hypothesis that higher levels of coercive sources of power will lead to lower levels of cooperation was not statistically supported. 3. Another hypothesis that higher levels of conflict will lead to lower levels of cooperation was partially supported. 4. Higher levels of cooperation lead to higher levels of cooperation. In this study, data was gathered from the retail side of the franchise channel dyad for garments goods. Therefore, future research are suggested to investigate respondents of both sides(franchiser and franchisee) of the channel dyad.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.139-150
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• 2013

Fast fashion companies have generated enormous amounts of clothing and large quantities of unsold or short-lived clothing end up in the landfill. As if to counter fast fashion, sustainable fashion has arisen for environmentally friendly garments at different levels from the fiber stage to production stage. However it is still fraught with uncertainty of systems in the industry. Therefore, this study proposed a system to create re-valued clothing from recycled garments for retailers. The target companies are large-sized retailers like Levi's, Polo, Gap, or J-Crew which are consistently producing basic items such as Levi's 501 or Classic Polo shirts with middle-prices. At the material stage, this study recommended additional requirements of designing a garment with a long life cycle based on criteria of an ideal garment developed by Patagonia clothing company. Then, this study explored innovative ways that retailers might connect with consumers to allow direct interaction between them in terms of the process of collecting used clothes. Using recycled clothing as a source material, this study strove to offer a process of redesign where the concept of 'waste to fashion' is developed as reconstructions where old forms are transformed into new ones.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.10
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• pp.145-154
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine how the garment sizes by junior brand manufactures reflect Tween Generation's (ages from 5th grade to 9th grade) actual body sizes. They have diverse clothing preferences in styles and fitting levels as well as diverse body sizes and shapes. The subjects of this study were 520 students (the 5th and 6th grades in elementary schools, the 1st, 2nd and 3rd grades in middle schools) who lived in Jeonju. A questionnaire was used in this study. The data were analyzed by frequency, means, t-test and $\chi^2$. The results were as follows. In the selection of garment size, both the girl and boy students most preferred selecting garments after trying them on by themselves. Boy students tended to select garment size according to their mothers' advice. On the other hand, elementary school students showed a tendency to select garment size with their mothers. In fitting sizes, middle school girls wanted the size to fit tightly rather than loosely on their bodies much more than elementary school girls. Junior brand manufacturers produced sizes that well reflected actual body sizes of elementary and middle school girls. Specifically, the pants best covered their body sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.131-151
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• 2011

The study alms to identify how the symbols and images of Greek Roman myths in contemporary fashion have been reflected in respects of meaning and forms, and to find out the organic course from meaning to forms by using Durand's classification. The results define the significance of Greek Roman myths in contemporary fashion, and systematically suggest a direction of imagination for more creative design. In the diurne regime, the symbolism of purity, heroism and fear appeared. In the nocturne regime, the symbolism of maternity and sensuality appeared. In the dramatic regime, the symbolism of androgyny appeared. The characteristics of designs contained in each symbolism are common. In this regard, it is possible to trace organic relationships in the creation of images through the verbal scheme. In addition, the verbal scheme creates archetypal images that lead to images and symbols in the socio-cultural context, so it is possible to analyze the relationships between archetypal images and the format of garments. The study examined how the archetypal images that appeared in the mythical images were expressed in garments through the verbal system.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.189-198
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• 2012

This study aim was to understand the effects of the change of the sleeve cap height on the sleeve cap line and the sleeve appearance by making nine different sleeve cap height patterns. When a subject sews the virtual and real garments with this, it provides data base through which she can make the suitable sleeve by conducting a comparative analysis of the appearance and cross-sectional diagram and grasping the relation between the sleeve cap line ease and the shape of the sleeve. As a result of the analysis of the image of 3D virtual garment, the shape of the armscye and the position of the bust line and sleeve baseline, the sleeve cap height and the sewing ease of the sleeve cap line affect on the shape of the sleeve and the armscye. Although the real garment is slightly different from the virtual garment they have shown similar tendency. Therefore, if the 3D virtual clothing system is used appropriately, it is possible to expect various study results in the apparel field without making real garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.526-538
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• 2016

Breast cancer surgery result in changes in clothing style due to changes in the size of the breast as well as body shape. This study provides basic data as a fashion therapy to improve the quality of life for breast cancer patients who have to change clothing habits after surgery. The regression results found that the most important factor are pain and the amount of breast loss for clothes style changes after breast cancer surgery. Breast cancer patients suffer pain relative to the proximity to the date of surgery and regardless of the breast cancer resection range. However, the changes in clothes style relates to the amount of pain and breast reduction range. The t-test results on the change of the clothing styles for before and after breast cancer surgery showed that women significantly prefer comfortable clothes with sleeves and consider a closure style on clothes to put on and take off instead of clothes that are tight-fitting, have thin fabric or deep neck lines. Painful breast cancer results in women who prefer closure style on clothes, front closure clothes and garments that hide body shape. However, the larger reduction range of breast cancer patients and those with painful breast cancer prefer garments that hide body shape and are looser size clothes with sleeves.