• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.791-802
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• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.963-973
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• 2008

Clothing pressure is closely connected with the degree of comfort of an athlete's tight-fitting garments. Therefore, the construction of sports garments is very important to the wearer's athletic performance. In this study, the fundamental relationship between the reduction rates of stretch fabrics and clothing pressure was explored with the aim of improving clothing comfort and obtaining a systematic pattern reduction for women's tight-fitting bodysuits. A women's bodysuit pattern was obtained by the draping method using a dressform. The basic pattern was divided into four parts and changed into reduced pattems according to the amount of fabric stretch determined by ASTM D2594. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 20 locations (shoulder, 9 locations; bust, 5; and armhole, 6). Among the 15 garments tested, the mean pressure of the A1 bodysuit was 4.60 $gf/cm^2$, and that of the C5 bodysuit was 22.98 $gf/cm^2$. The mean pressures of the bodysuits with reduction rates of 10% and 20% were below 10 $gf/cm^2$, while those of suits with reduction rates of 30%,40%, and 50% (except C5) were below 20 $gf/cm^2$. The pressure at the shoulder was 9.50$\sim$32.24 $gf/cm^2$, which was higher than that at the bust (3.34$\sim$24.56 $gf/cm^2$) and the armhole (0.95$\sim$12.15 $gf/cm^2$). The mean pressures of the 15 bodysuits were divided into five groups using analysis of variance (ANOVA), and were found to be significantly different (p<0.001). Regression analysis afforded the following expression: mean pressure ($gf/cm^2$) = 1.607 + 0.369[reduction rate (%)].

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.242-253
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to use a 3D human body scanner to analyze the cross section of different body parts when a girdle is worn. Two types of girdles were selected as experimental garments: a standard type girdle (Garment A) and a high-waist type girdle (Garment B). Their sizes were 88 (S) and 94 (M). Ten female subjects in their twenties who wear girdles sizes 88 (S) and 94 (M) participated the experiment. Their bodies were scanned three times with the 3D human body scanner, before and after wearing experimental girdles. The data were collected by overlapping the cross sections of the 3D scanned body shape data. The space length was measured from the overlapped cross sections. The results show that human body silhouette are changed after wearing the compression type garments and the amount and place of the body change is different by style of garments. First, the waist girth shape became rounder. Second, there was a definite difference in space amount at abdomen girth between two types of girdle. The abdomen area was pushed toward the front after wearing the standard type girdle (A). The high-waist type girdle (B) pushed abdomen area toward the back. Third, there was clear difference at the hip area after wearing two types of girdle. The hip area pushed toward the front with the standard type girdle (A) and pushed toward the back with the high-waist type girdle (B).

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.114-128
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• 2008

The current study aims to classify types of traditional fur Garments in Jeju into Dusik(hat), dress, Jokui(socks) and accessaries, and examine characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of museums in Jeju. Dusik is a kind of hat for protection against the cold, and there are badger leather Gamtaes and cow hair Beonggeojis(fur hats). Especially leather gamtae was used to protect against the cold when people hunted roe deers in Mt. Halla. Beonggeoji was producted in the form of felt with fine hair collected coat-shedding of cows and dogs in spring, therefore it was too warm and practical to be damaged from storm or pressure. Fur coat is a general name of dress made of leather without hair. It is a kind of clothes with a hat worn while taking care of horses and cows. Also people wore dog leather topcoats and cow leather topcoats when they hunted in Mt. Halla. As for Jokui, there are leather Beoseon(socks) made of cow leather, leather shoes in the form of straw shoes, and leather Balle embracing the low half of the body warmly. Accessaries include a rectangular cow leather bag for storing an iron piece for making fire. These traditional fur robs in Jeju not only have practicality for protection against the cold, but also symbolized richness by using leathers of badgers, roe deers, etc. that were previous during that times. Also they used partially cut leather for decoration at the edge.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.264-274
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• 1999

최근에 사용되고 있는 남성용 정장 중, 여름용 30종, 겨울용 30종 등 총 60종을 시료로 하여 이들의 온열특성 중 보온성(무풍시=0.2 m/sec 이하, 풍속시=1.2 m/sec)과 이와 관련된 물성, 즉 공기투과도, 무게, 두께 등을 측정 및 분석하여 앙상블 및 가먼트의 보온성을 예측하는 회귀식을 개발하였다. 그 결과로는 일반적인 남성용 정장의 물성으로 두께 및 무게는 겨울용이 높았으며, 여름용과 겨울용을 확실히 구별할 수 있는 인지는 공기투과도였는데 여름용의 공기투과도는 겨울용보다 약 3~6배 정도 높았다. 남성용정장의 온열특성을 보면 겨울용 정장의 보온성이 여름용보다 높았고, 풍속이 있을 때 앙상블의 보온성은 최대 30% 정도 감소하는 경향을 나타내었다. 또한, 정장상하의 물성을 독립변수로 하여 가먼트 및 앙상블의 보온성을 추정하는 회귀식을 개발하였는데, 회귀식분석결과, 정장앙상블의 보온성에 영향을 주는 인자는 두께, 무게, 및 사이즈로 나타났다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.42-53
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate donning and doffing independence of the disabled individuals. The subjects of this study were who had kinetic disabilities on upper-limbs. 31 women and 38 children were participated in the survey. They were classified with six groups according to their upper-limbs' kinetic ability levels. Three upper-limbs' kinetic abilities were adopted: Lifting arms up to the chest, twisting shoulder to throw arms toward the back, and buttoning clothes by oneself. The independency of donning and doffing of 14 upper-body garment styles were evaluated by subjects. The donning and doffing independency of 14 garment styles was significantly differentiated by the level of kinetic abilities and garment styles. The person who able to button clothes by oneself could don and doff clothes by oneself. The results also revealed that the independency of donning and doffing was significantly different between cerebral palsy and apoplexy groups. The persons having a stroke of apoplexy were more likely to be able to dress independently than the persons with cerebral palsy. The persons with a paralysed arm were more likely able to wear ready-to-wear clothes of various styles. The donning and doffing independency was also significantly differentiated by the styles of garments. The tight fit style garments were more difficult to be dressed independently than the loose fit style garments. The jacket and shirts, which were buttoned from neck to bottom, were more difficult to be dressed independently than T-shirts.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.81-97
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to summarize systematically and understand the characteristics of the production process of whole garments in order to develop knitwear using a real whole garment machine and propose this as a development case for high value added knitwear design. Concerning research methods, the study looked at existing research into whole garment knitwear and relevant data, data on websites, and the whole garment knitting machine made by Shima Seiki, a Japanese company, which has been the most commonly used machine in Korea. Also the study collected program data concerning a knitting machine and knitting by participating in the production process of whole garment knitwear, and the production line was filmed directly. In addition, the study conducted research into the development of knitwear design using the SWG-X 12 gauge. The conclusions obtained from the production process of whole garments and product development include the following. First, whole garment knitwear is appropriate for expressing a sophisticated look that makes the body appear to be in one form through natural connection without any seam allowance. Second, it is very suitable for response production since it does not go through the pattern, cutting, and processing stages. Furthermore, because of the consistent management of the entire process by computer control, it may be the highest cutting-edge fashion area in which planning and proposal style industry may be realizable. Third, it is easy to approach design through a programming process, and it is possible to develop diverse patterns; thereby, it is appropriate for producing high value added knitwear products.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.15-27
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• 1991

This study is to investigate the royal wedding garments found out in Gn-Rs-Do-Gam-Eui-Gue during Yi Dynasty. The results are as follows: 1. The wedding garments for kings and princes, as well as for queens and princesses, had a tendency to increase in their kinds and number 2. The number of' Sang-bok (상복)' for queens and princesses was decreased about $50\%$ after the publication of Jeong-Re (정리). 3. Casual wears for queens and princesses were decreased to the halves in kind, and its number was decreased about $60\%$ .4. Clothings for court ladies showed changes in kind. 5. Documents about clothings for parents of queen's in wedding ceremony cannot be found in the literatures, such as Guk-Hon-Jeong-ke(국혼정예), Sang-Bang-Jeong-Re(상방정예). and Eui-Cue published in the 35th and 38th year of King Yeongjo's reign, respectively. 6. The number of ornamental bars including wigs was decreased about $50\%$ after the publication of Guk -Hon -Jeong- Re.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.977-987
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• 1997

The present study was designed to see what the local cooling of different body regions especially head and neck, hands and feet effect physiological responses in cold environment. Four male subjects wore garments covering whole body except face and rested for 20 min and then they rested for 40 min with uncovered head, neck, hands and feet, respectively in a cold environment(10$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5%R.H.) 1. Rectal temperature increased when hands and feet were exposed to cold environment respectively, and when head and neck, hands and feet were exposed to cold environment together. 2. Exposed skin temperatures fell in cold environment. And hands temperature was lower than any other exposed skin temperatures. The hands temperature was significantly lower when head was exposed than when head was covered. And the feet temperature were significantly lower when hands were exposed than when hands were covered. 3. Mean skin temperature was the lowest when head and neck, hands and feet were exposed simultaneously, In conclusion, skin temperatures of extremities were decreased due to exposure to the cold environment. Especially upper extremities were lower than lower extremities by exposed parts of the body. It seemed that the extremities played the role of cold receptors but head and neck didn't. And there were large heat losses from the unprotected head and neck. In cold environment of 1$0^{\circ}C$ , thus, it is suggested for the purpose of thermoregulatory responses that head and neck would be covered and extremities would be exposed, especially upper extremities.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.909-918
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• 1999

The indigo-dyed blue denim garments are favored not only by young people but also by almost everyone of life, In the early years they were casually worn on most occasions but became universal recently. Such denim garments are treated with various process to give it optimal softness and color contrast of blue and white. The processess can generate photoyellowing and thus the yellowing may damage their appearance and quality. So this study is to find the solutions to reduce the photoyellowing problem. For this prupose sample denim were treated with cellulase fluorescent brightener UV absorbent etc. The results were as follows; The yellowing would be more accelerated by fluorescent brightening. Since the yellowing was reduced by 90% In particular the application of the UV absorbent before using of the fluorescent brightener was most effective. The optimal concentration was 0.5% (o.w.f) and the benzophenone compounds were found most effective for the indigo denim. And reduction effect of yellowing by UV absorbent was lowered with repeated laundering but metal compound treatment on fabric made a removal of UV absorbent by laundering prevented.