• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.493-511
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.112-125
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• 2010

A Holter monitor is used for ECG monitoring of ambulatory daily life in hospital. However, the use of this apparatus causes skin allergies and discomfort in patients because of the attachment gel and tapes used to attach disposable electrodes to the skin. In this study, the development of tight-fitting clothing connected to a portable Holter monitor was proposed. In addition, the use of conductive fabrics as electrodes was proposed; this will enable the use of garments in u-health care for measuring ECG signals. The male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales. A Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and a 7 point score indicates that it provided the best fit as a tight-fitting upper clothing. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 4 locations (the conductive fabric electrode) As results, a male basic sloper for upper clothing was developed and that pattern was manipulated to the tight fit pattern by considering the reduction rate of the percentage stretch in the fabric. The developed tight-fitting garment was superior in terms of subjective sensation and 6t. The mean pressure of the garment with reduction rates of 40% in width and of 50% in length was 8.45gf/$cm^2$. A conductive fabric electrode was developed by considering the sewing method and the developed electrode was detected well. The ECG data were recorded for 13 hr 19 min 44 sec and the artifacts in the ECG signals were recorded for 9 hr 3 min 46 sec (total time: 22 hr 23 min 23 sec). The artifacts data were obtained during heavy activities.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권7호
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• pp.984-999
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• 2013

This research examines the interrelation of clothes, colors and sentiments based on clothes and colors that stimulate sentiment. This study provides data that is useful to color therapy by means of clothes as medium. The survey for this study targeted 200 Pusan National University students who analyzed the colors of association and clothes colors for nine positive vocabularies (passion, love, warmth, happiness, interest, softness, comfortable, freshness, and coolness) and six negative vocabularies (anger, fear, despair, nervous, gloomy, and loneliness). The data collection process used 120 standard colors as represented by Munsell's basic 10 colors (R, YR, Y, GY, G, BG, B, PB, P, RP) as chromatic colors classified into eleven tones of colors (V, S, B, P, VP, LGR, GR, L, DL, DP, DK) and achromatic colors divided into ten steps of brightness N1-N10. The results of the research are as follows. First, the warm class of colors were significant in the colors of association with positive sentiment and the cold class of colors were significant in the sentiment of refreshment and coolness. In addition, bright and clear colors (like V, S, VP, P) were associated with color tones. Second, the low bright achromatic colors were generally high for the colors of association with negative sentiment; in addition, the color of R, PB, P (as achromatic colors) were also significant. In addition, sober and dark tones (like GR, DL, DK, DP) were significant in color tones. Third, the interrelation between positive sentiment and clothes colors shows that colors of association were mainly used for upper garment colors. Similar colors against upper garments were used together for bottom garment achromatic colors and complementary colors; therefore, bottom garments play a subsidiary role in the concept of coordination with upper garments.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.762-770
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine of the flower patterned fabrics used for the Shrouds during 15~18th century in Chosun Dynasty. The Shrouds at that time could be classified by the garments for the dead(殮襲衣) and the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具). And we looked into the types and the compounding methods of the flower pattern used for the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具) as well as the Shrouds accounting to the uses. Results of this study are as follows. 1) The flower patterned fabrics weaved as the uses of the garments for the dead(殮襲衣), item by item, were divided into the upper garment, the lower garment and men's Po(coat). 2) Seeing Jeogori, mixed various flower patterned fabrics, among the upper garment, there were focused on the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. 3) The flower patterns in men's Po(coat) were used a lot in Jangui and Dahnryoung. Cheollik, Dappo, Jeonbok, etc made of the flower patterned fabrics, were of small number but we can feel an aesthetic sense of men at that time. 4) The flower patterned fabrics weaved the lower garments, were used much more in the skirts than in the trousers, for reasons of the wrapping a dead body. 5) Seeing the flower pattern used the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具), the pattern of Lotus and Arabesque, among the types of flower pattern, had a majority.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.481-490
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• 2006

Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.255-266
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• 2015

In this study, we have developed the ergonomic pattern from the 3D human body reflecting cycling posture and extensibility of the stretch fabrics. Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athlete's tight-fitting stretch garments by reducing the original pattern is a challenging subject, which influence on the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationships between the reduction rates of the 2D pattern obtained from the 3D human scan and resultant clothing pressure were explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by reduced clothing pattern. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using a seven-point Likert scale on two consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were asked to take five different postures including waist flexion, sitting and others. A Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 points indicating the best fit in tight-fitting pants. Comparing 2/3T-pattern with T-pattern, the latter was superior to 2/3T-pattern in terms of adhere well to the waist and hip area in the 0.032 significance level. T-pattern was superior to 2/3T-pattern in terms of fitting and wear comfort. As results, the pattern obtained from the flexed body reflecting cycling posture already included the contraction and extension of the skin while cycling posture, so that the extra ease for movement and good fit was not need to be considered. The optimized reduction rates were determined with the proposed reduction rate, the resultant pressure range was within the range of $0.5{\sim}3.0gf/cm^2$ at eight locations on the body except front waist band and thigh band.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.671-685
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop a new size range and size interval for early adolescent girls. For this purpose, a total of 529 girls aged between 10 and 14 were measured and data were collected from 42 anthropometric measurements and 41 photographic measurements per a person. SAS 8.1 was used in data analysis including means, standard deviations, and frequency analysis. The stature was divided at 5cm intervals as in KS into 9 sizes from the lowest 130cm to the highest 171cm. If waist circumference were divided at the same intervals, the sizes cannot reflect the body growth of adolescent girls at these ages. Thus this study set intervals between sizes irregularly based on the mean of waist circumference by the type of body shape. Based on the results, this study proposed: for Type A - 6 sizes (140A-58, 145A-54, 145A-62, 150A-58, 150A-62, 155A-62); for Type X- 9 sizes (150X-59, 155X-63, 155X-66, 160X-59, 160X-63, 160X-66, 165X-59, 165X-63, 165X-66): and for Type H - 7 sizes (145H-68, 150H-68, 150H-70, 155H-68, 155H-73, 160H-68, 160H-73). For the sizes selected for each type, reference measurements were decided - centering on items necessary for manufacturing clothes. Reference measurements suggested for lower garments 8 items including waist circumference, hip circumference, slacks length and crotch length. The suggested sizes are distributed in a wider range, so they are considered to be helpful for students to find clothes fitting their bodies.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.35-48
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• 2009

Therapeutic garments are an undeveloped area and yet they have the potential to generate considerable profit for the fashion industry. In traditional Chinese medicine, there are spots and pathways on the body through which energy flows and practitioners consider that disease results when this energy flow is hindered. Clothes which stimulate the spots can therefore potentially help to cure disease. In addition, clothes are worn every day and can therefore offer prolonged treatment certainly in comparison with other treatments. Obesity is a big problem nowadays and one which is caused by poor energy circulation (according to TCM). A garment which stimulates the spots can assist energy flow and therefore cause the wearer to lose weight. In the process, it can also alleviate side effects of obesity such as diabetes and high blood pressure. The was to stimulate spots include acupuncture, acupressure, moxibustion etc. There are lots of products to press spots which improve energy flow both in the Western and Chinese markets. The basic principle of circulation is in fact the same in both Western and Chinese medicine. However, most of these are products are footwear ones because they can easily provide the necessary stimulation to reduce tiredness and improve circulation. For garments, to press the spots effectively it is best to use tight clothes such as corsets and leggings. The important point is to tighten the body and to make energy flow and yet feel comfortable at the same time. Choice of fabric is therefore an important issue. Although the idea has been introduced, it will be necessary to develop a technique which will allow the necessary amount of pressure to be applied. It could be concluded that this area has a lot of possibility for the future but further research will need to be done before the idea becomes workable.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.149-161
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• 2000

The purpose of the study was to examine the effect of Tencel fabrics on physiological reactions of a human body and thermal comfort under the hot environment. The 3 females subjects in their twenties were selected and a wear sensation test of the subjects was performed with four experimental ensembles made of cotton and Tencel fabrics for the study in the hot environment(3$0^{\circ}C$, 70%RH). The resets of the test were summarized as follows: For the mean skin temperature, Tencel garments showed about 0.2$^{\circ}C$-0.4$^{\circ}C$ lower than that of the cotton garment. The temperature of the rectal was 0.2$^{\circ}C$-0.4$^{\circ}C$ lower for Tencel garments than that for the colon garment. In the form of ensembles, the order of rectal temperature of the subjects for both Tencel and cotton ensembles was 1>IV>III>II. In the body weight loss according to garment materials, Tencel had a lower and more uniform than the cotton Thus, it could concluded that if the perspiration took into account, garments made of Tencel can be more ideal than that of the cotton. The heart rate and oxygen consumption appeared to be proportional to each other. For the heart rate, ensemble TI and TII of Tencel were much lower than ensemble CI and CII. For whole enembles except for TIV, Tencel ensembles showed relatively better thermal sensation and comfort sensation than the cotton ensembles. In the fatigue sensation, the reactions of the subjects were “slightly fatigue” and “fatigue” for the cotton, but “neutral” and “slightly fatigue” for Tencel.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.301-314
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• 2017

This study focused on the movement adaptability of $19^{th}$ century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic $19^{th}$ century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments' silhouettes and the $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the $19^{th}$ century western women's jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.