• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.71-80
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• 2001

Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1374-1385
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• 2009

This study focuses on three points. First, how designers develop clothing and cosmetic culture (which reflect time and culture) into other fashion products in order to verify that attire and makeup can be the objects of aesthetics in addition to functionality. Second, why the fashion design of Christian Dior has been continuously popular for women of all ages and countries in the development of fashion, attire, and makeup. Third, this study analyzes how the aesthetical characteristics of the fashion of Christian Dior are reflected in clothing and cosmetic culture in order to clarify the brand outlook on attire and makeup as a source of France's luxury fashion industry. The philosophical characteristics of Dior's fashion were studied based on existing literature. First, her childhood background (that became the motif of Dior's design) and the philosophical ideology of fashion design, perfume, and beauty were the focus of this study. Second, this study examined how consciousness on beauty expressed in hairstyle, perfume, and cosmetics is expressed in connection with clothing. Third, the background with which Dior's fashion and perfume business became successful is examined in addition the necessity of the image strategy for success in the cosmetics market was studied. Domestic and international books on clothing and cosmetics, preceding studies, the internet, and related magazines are utilized to consider the cosmetics and beauty fashion of Dior. The results of this study show how Korean fashion and cosmetic culture can further globalize. This study encompasses the period of 1905 when Christian Dior was born until 1957 when he died of a heart attack; it also deals with well-known designers of the Christian Dior House from Yves Saint Laurent of 1957 to John Galliano of the present.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.32-45
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is, to renew understanding the aesthetic value of a ruff collar and to expand the border of creation in designing as the source of inspiration being applied to an retro style by inquiring various ruff collars re-illuminated in the present-day fashion trend. The ruff collar investigated through the above historical contemplation became the source of inspirations in the current retro trend and was variously modified in modern fashion. In the 1980s, we can find a dignified and feminine image in graceful and exquisite suits or dresses. Especially, the spanish round ruff of the 2st period appeared on works by a lot of designers. From the application by designers like John Galliano in the latter half of the 80s, we can be well aware that the meaning of decoration was newly altered. In the 1990s, the ruff collar was shown in various fashion style, but it was what was reborn as a factor of modern fashion through a liberal compromise and harmony. Various style was shown from exaggeratedly swelling one to smaller one, which were more diversely applied than that of the 80s. A Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar were also displayed being fitted to a modern sense by Vivienne Westwood and Louis F raud. A ruff in the 2000s was settled as a factor of modern fashion, exposing on works of designers more often than in the 1980s and 90s. The spanish round ruff appeared on garments, while a Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar went out of sight. A new form of the ruff was regenerated by extreme magnification and simplification, and several designers like Issey Miyake and Alexander Mcqueen brought forward a new way in materials and technical skills. According to this research, a ruff collar developed as a fashion factor which characterizes a certain period of time, reflecting the aesthetical sense of Renaissance and turning into various and distinct forms. Afterwards, it exerted influence on modern fashion. This is offering the source of inspiration to contemporary designers.