• Journal of architectural history
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.67-86
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• 2008

Main theme of this paper is the evaluation of the historical significance of Luciano Baldessari's exhibition works mainly during the Fifties. In order to understand the formal and logical basis of those project, his relationship with the historical Avant-gardes and the consequences expressed in his pavilion projects for the Breda Industrial Company are analyzed. The first part focuses on the influence of Italian Futurism, German Expressionism and Italian Rationalism on the formation and experience of Baldessari during the interwar years. The encounter with these movements determine the interest but also the principles along which Baldessari represents his idea of object, space and place. Specially his professional activities during Fascism would determine his attitude toward political power and the necessity of autonomy in artistic sphere. In the second part, different themes that Baldessari affronted in each project of Breda Pavilions is analyzed. Another important issue regard the historiography of the contemporary architecture. Often, many important works that lies in the threshold of the disciplines such as painting and sculpture and media art were excluded in the history of architecture just because they do not deal with the architectural object. Recently, many elements such as theatrical project and temporary objects are considered as part of urban reality and architecture with acknowledgment of their capacity to create event and situations. Along this thought, not just the reconfiguration on the territory of architecture in present but also the criterion to evaluate the past history of architecture is changing drastically. This study on the pavilions of Baldessari intends to contribute indirectly on the current issue of dominion of architecture, but also to evaluate objectively recent architecture. Consequently, architectural protagonists such as Baldessari and their ephemeral projects would be evaluated compressively in their multiplicity of significance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1083-1098
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• 2009

The purpose of the study is to revaluate the new artistic values of Suprematism that immensely influenced the Russian culture in the beginning of the 20th century. Also through studying the relationship between people and costume within works of Malevich, who wanted to portray humanity through his art works, this study will research on how Suprematism not just stood as Russian Avant-garde art but significantly contributed to art and costume expression. The study methods are as follows. First, consider the formative background of Suprematism style of arts. Second, study of the development of Suprematism art through both Suprematism art and Non-objective art. Third, study how Suprematism style of arts is portrayed in art costume through works of Malevich. The results of the study are as follows. The Russian Suprematism art costume strictly originated from the Russian Suprematism style of arts. Suprematism simplified any reproductive element of fine art with a creative energy, which reflects the statement of Malevich that said, "The object does not exist, it only stands as a symbol." In other words, Suprematism abolished ordinary response to basic environment, and created a much more serious reality than the innate reality of the environment. When applied to art costume, such style sought after geometrical simplicity in shape and Neo-Premitivism trait in color. This trend is also expressed in 21st century fashion in new forms of Minimalism or Futurism. In this respect, Suprematism still holds an artistic value in a novel form even after a century since the beginning of 20th century when Malevich first presented Suprematism.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.1061-1068
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• 2007

The study has sought to explore how fashion emerges as a comprehensive tool of dress for increasing its brand appeal and express one's artistic sense and fashion by using everything from make-up to hair to trappings. Therefore, when it comes to fashion trends reflected in collections, the study is designed to improve understanding of make-up as one of the elements of total fashion and to help create diverse ideas in expressing creative and free make-up that can help perfect fashion concept in harmony with all the other elements. The study has pondered upon collection, trends and fashion make-up through literature study, and has gathered image data via the Internet. It also has conducted analysis of Ethnic style reconstructed combining past and the future, East and the West, and futurism style using asymmetrical forms without no defined patterns and hi-tech textures, which emerges as a result of post-modernism. The results of the study are as follows. Ethnic fashion that pursues strange and exotic beauty is characterized by its simple and idyllic images of traditional costume in Asia or primitive clothes in Africa. Make-up represent images of matt and pale skin, tanned yellow, glossy and thickly powered squeaky white skin. Point make-up highlighted eye lines, red chick, small and voluptuous red lips. Hair and accessory seeks diversity combining various ethnic styles together such as oriental, Indian, Islam and Africa. In addition, future-oriented fashion of the 21st century, twists in texture, various kinds of materials and changes in technique help give impressions of freedom and bizarreness.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.111-118
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to focus on living rooms that are preferred as a place for changing space image to the maximum and to find a method how finishing materials are expressed by selecting space with mix & match of many images. The study methods are as follows. First, understand the expressive trend of space images through the precedent studies and magazines, and examine its relationship with finishing materials. Second, select space images based on the contents understood earlier and extract adjective words that represent each space image through an expert survey. Third, find the cases where space images are expressed based on the extracted words and analyze expression methods of finishing materials. The results of the study are as follows. First, it was confirmed that recent space images are actively expressed through finishing materials. Second, space images selected through data related to the trend were classified as modern+natural, modern+traditional, modern+retro, classic+natural, classic+humor, and futurism+natural and 4 adjective words for each space image were extracted. Third, expressive elements of finishing materials were extracted as 'material'. 'texture', 'color', and 'pattern' through the precedent studies. Fourth, expressive methods of finishing materials for each space image could be suggested by analyzing the examples that show mix & match based on the contents extracted earlier. Lastly, it is expected to find various methods that lead space image into finishing materials by evaluating responses and changes in visual perception of residents according to expression of finishing materials based on this study.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.3
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• pp.173-192
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• 2005

Yoo Youngkuk started his career as an artist when he entered Bunkagakuin of Tokyo in 1935 he actively participated in the Japanese art scene as a young Korean artist until 1943. In his earliest works, Rhapsody and Work B, Surrealist and abstract influences are manifested as these were prevalent in Japan at the time. With the exception of Rhapsody and Work B, all works available that were executed between 1937 and 1940 are abstract, which points to the fact that Yoo intended abstraction from the beginning. Surviving works in relief suggest his early style was founded on the abstractions similar to Russian Avant-Garde, Neo-plasticism and Bauhaus simplicity. His early abstractions were not the ideational images derived in the process of the abstraction of the representational image, but they arose from the constructive attitude in composing the already stylized non-representational geometries. It is worth noting that his early emphasis was on the pure and absolute geometric abstraction, rather than the images motivated from the figurative representation. Yoo differentiates himself from Kim Whan Ki in the following aspects: one, he eliminated the subject matter i.e. human figures and the nature; two, he maintained the constructivist attitude in creating a strict and absolute abstraction; three, he experimented with different styles without combining them. He manifests direct influences from the prevalent Western art influences, such as Futurism and Russian Avant-Garde, unlike Kim who vaguely references. In both paintings and reliefs, Yoo's attempt in the realization of the pictorial depth and space seems cerebral and conceptualized compared with the other artists of the time who resolved abstraction via the constructive dimension. Uemura, a contemporary critic to the geometric abstractions in Japan, disapproves the stylistic bent in the adaptation of the abstract painting without the comprehension of its spiritual movement. As witnessed in other criticisms as well, contemporary Japanese critics' interest lie mainly in the superficial observation such as the presence of representational elements, composition and use of color. Such formal and superficial understanding of the geometric abstraction resulted in

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.45
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• pp.33-54
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• 2016

This study presents a comparative analysis of the calligrammic poetic dictions shown in the poems of the French poets Guillaume Apollinaire and Paul Eluard and in those of the Korean poet Lee Sang. They were adventurers in the avant-garde movement who used experimental techniques that led to futurism, expressionism, cubism, dadaism, and surrealism. They applied a typographic technique that combined pictorial arrangements of fonts, shapes of compositions and between lines, letters of the alphabet, mathematical symbols, and graphical elements, such as circles or lines, to make up a poem that also looked like a painting. Their works, valued as visual lyric poems, break up language and combine anti-poems. They rejected traditional poetic dictions or grammar, but developed a paratactic poem that freely uses letters and symbols. Their calligrammic poetic dictions arouse dynamic images like space extension. Lee Sang's calligrams seem like abstract paintings that apply geometric symbols like those used in technical drawings. As a result, crossing the boundaries between language and pictorial art by using experimental materials and techniques, their poems deconstruct the creative standards of rational and traditional poetic dictions, creating an adventurous, expressive technique. Their calligrammic, avant-garde poems introduced a new spirit of art into both French and Korean modern poetic literature.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.108-123
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• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.10 no.8
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• pp.147-158
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• 2010

The Soviet Silent Films in the 1920s, produced a brilliant prosperity in the history of world films in the cultural and artistic aspects. Among them, Dziga Vertov was a film theorists and a practitioner along with Sergei M. Einstein played a pivotal role in the contemporary soviet films at the time. But the film theories of Vetro is incorrectly recognized or specialized compared to the theories of Eisenstein. But Deleuze has stated that the short in the movie of Vertov is able to deliver a meaning and an impact and he has emphasized that a short can be significant by itself by focusing on the 'truth' which a documentary must have. His film theories are based on futurism and constructivism and use the 'kino-eye' method and 'Interval' theory to summarize and organize his movies into 'movie-truth' principal and 'life as itself' concept. Deleuze the purpose of this research is to analyze with the Vertov core of film theory and every theory of kino eye as the foundation and by comparing the Montage Theory of Sergei Eisenstein and applying Deleuze's Image Theory. Furthermore, it can be insufficient to discuss the film commercial achievements of Vertov as a result of inadequacy of previous research but it will further study his innovative methods and depth of his theories in his representation form in the documentary films.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.33-45
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• 2003

This is a study that examines the fashion changes in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. Starting from defining the concept and the developing process of subculture, this study traces the history of subcultural styles from 1930s to 1990s, focusing on the way each generation resisted the main stream through its styles. This study is intended to provide a theoretical frame on the understanding of subcultural styles, with a close examination of its formative and developing process and characteristics. This study understands subcultural style as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity, and, as a result, realizes in the form of fashion its repressed subconsciousness, resistance to the alienation from the society, and deviation from the normative ethics and morality of a society. The four types of subcultural styles presented in chapter 4 are based on their form of resistance, and they are classified and analyzed as follows: The first type is revision, which tries to revise and change the given form by adding new elements. There are two kinds of revision, one is dressing up, which dresses for success, and the other is minimal dressing. Hyperbole is the second type, which resists by emphasizing or hyperbolizing the main stream with its erotic, nihilistic, or dynamic forms. Two kinds of hyperbole are examined, one is hyperbole of masculinity, and the other is ostentatious hyperbole. The third type is reversal and rejection, which reverses the forms from the established sign system into its own secret code, or rejects the traditional taboos. This type include no dressing, and the reversal of sex identity. Isolation and redrawal is the fourth type, which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day. This type is divided into dressing of the escape from time, and dressing of the escape from space. The first group of this type is characterized by nostalgia or futurism. An emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space. In conclusion, it can be said that subcultural style puts the foremost importance on individual freedom. Since 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural styles and high fashion gets somewhat blurred, while the liberal, sexual, life stylistic tension between the two groups are heightened.