• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.22-31
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• 2011

In this study, to develop a bodice pattern for women aged 18~24 years, statistical analysis was conducted using the body measurements from 2004 Size Korea and wearing test was conducted. As a result, ease of the bust level to set a horizontal line was decided to be 4cm, that of front interscye line 0cm, and that of back interscye line 0.7~1cm. And the line which divides the horizontal baseline into halves set as the side line. The conversion formula for decision of the scye depth line in the pattern is B/6 + 3.3(cm) + ease (2.5cm), and if bust circumference is 91 or more, it should be 21cm, and if bust circumference is 76 or less, it should be 18.5cm. The back neck line width is 7cm, front neck line width 6.5cm(back neck line width -0.5cm), and front neck depth 8cm(back neck line width +1cm). The shoulder slope was set as a slope of the hypotenuse of a right-angled triangle, which went out 15cm out of the shoulder point and went down 6cm, with tan$21.7^{\circ}$. To develop a final research pattern, wearing test was performed on the primary research pattern for 21 women aged 18~24 years. As a result, the research pattern was evaluated to be significantly higher.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.17-28
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• 1999

This study was to analyze factors of the body form and factors of bodice pattern through a surface developement figure for the tight bodice pattern design. Fifty replicas of the trunk surface were made by applying a surgical tape method of female subjects between 18 and 24 years old. The result was as follows: 1. The gaps between direct measurements and measurements of the surface development figure were regarded as allowances for the tight bodice pattern. 2. There are four factors of body form selected by factor analysis. The 1st factor signifies th degree of fatness in the upper body. The 2nd factor signifies the length of the upper body. The 3rd factor signifies the part of the front shoulder. The 4th factor signifies the part of the neck. 3. There are high correlations between center back line of the surface development figure and back length line side line front length line back neck depth back upper chest depth. There are high correlations between back bust line of the surface development figure and back interscye breadth line back upper chest line back armhole line. There are high correlations between front bust line of the surface development figure and front upper chest line front interscye breadth line front armhole line front neck breadth 4. The regression expressions of measurements of the surface development figure of the upper body were analyzed as(Fig. 3).

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.11
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• pp.1-9
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• 2003

The somatotype classification of this study was to manufacture well-fitted clothes for middle-aged women. The somatotype classification of the upper body of lateral view was based on previous studies, and 4 postures, straight posture, leaning back posture, bent forward posture, and swayback posture were selected for this study. The front of leaning back posture was longer and wider than that of straight posture, and its front neck depth was deeper. Its front interscye breadth was wider and back interscye breadth was narrower. S.N.P. B.P. front waistline length, waist front length, front diagonal length, chest shedder length, front waistline shoulder line length were longer, and S.N.P. scapular back waistline length, back length, back shoulder length, back diagonal length, shoulder line back waistline length were shorter. On the contrary, the front of bent forward posture was shorter and narrower than that of straight posture, and its back neck depth was deeper. The properties of swayback posture were similar to those of bent forward posture. Its front was shorter and narrower, but the results of front neck depth and back neck depth were like those of straight posture.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the changes brought by the upper body form using a three-dimensional human body measurement the gypsum method. The developed plane figure was constructed using paper replica to analyze the dimensional shape of the upper torso and to be able to design clothes suitable for elderly women's physical characteristics. The characteristics are analyzed and compared with existing patterns in order to extract the components for the pattern design. The examination was carried out based on the developed plane figures of upper body surface replicas. Type 1, the bent-forward body form, has a wide gap on the shoulder. In Type 2, the gap of waist line was wide at angulus scapulae point. Type 3 was the thin body form, and the girth of the chest, front interscye breadth and back interscye breadth were more level with one another, compared to the other types. In Type 4, the bent-backward body form, there was a wide gap on front shoulder. Comparison with the developed plane figure and existed pattern, items revealed differences in significance included the front and back interscye width between the measured values of the existed patterns and the developed plane figure. Therefore, the basic components of basic bodice pattern for old women were determined in the up-bust circumference and length of the back.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.8
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• pp.137-154
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• 2001

This study was made to draft the tight fitting bodice pattern which horizontal and perpendicular stands are to be lightly set, with the consideration of characteristics of body shape in design of clothes. Measurement of body was conducted on 53 women in twenties, and observation was made on surface development pattern by adhesive tape addition method and gypsum method on three standard objects. In the study, bodice pattern was completed by using already made Somato- measurer, compared with existing bodice pattern, and the results are as follows. The result of the correlation analysis by body measurement shows that chest circumference has a relation to B$.$P-front neck point, side neck point, shoulder point, front interscye breadth point, and the item in spine scapulae point has relation to the item of back neck line, and front & back horizontal values. The degree of shoulder slant, width of armhole and of its depth, the amount of breast, back space, back length were shown to be directly measured from the body. In surface development pattern, tight-fit bodice pattern necessary to the breast volume and back space were shown to be investigated and these volume have to be given in setting up basic line for clothes design together with body measurement value. The result of sensory evaluation for appearance test on fitness shows higher value of research bodice including line of shoulder line, front and back interscye breadth, chest circumference, waist circumference, armhole circumference and of its depth, compared with the research bodice in most items. The result of this study is seen showing high effectiveness for the basic data to design the ready-made dress of high sensitivity of high value added tat.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.953-970
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.930-942
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• 1996

This study was done to provide the characteristics of body surface changes at armhole area. Experiments were carried out at upper arm and upper body inchuding 67 items, 74 segments by the stanard posture and arm movements. The subjects were 15 females of twenty aged. The major conclusions of this study are; 1. On the circumference items of upper arm, armhole circumference was decreased by all arm movement, especially high contracted on front armhole line. The most contracted segments of armhole circumference were from the shonlder point to front and back interscye breadth point. Axillary circumference was increased 5 cm to the utmost, so the function of sleeve pattern would be decided by axillary circumference. 2. The lengths of upper arm were decreased near center line, sleeve cap length was contracted 3∼4 cm. Posterior armpit point area was increased both length and breadth. According to the rates of expansion and contraction, the diagram of expansion and contraction of upper arm was suggested. 3. On upper body, back side chest breadth was increased exceedingly and shoulder length was decreased most. It was apparent that surface changes of upper body were greatly larger as far away from center front and center back line. The rates of expansion and contraction of upper body were also represented as a diagram of surface changes.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.79-88
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• 2022

In order to develop a bodice prototype suitable for obese women in their 20s, this study compared and analyzed a total of five pattern system methods, including prototype of France and Japan, one prototype for education in Korea and two prototype for industries in Korea. Through this, this study attempted to investigate the bodice pattern system suitable for the development of plus-size women's clothing. For the pattern drafting, pattern 1 was applied with the most body dimensions such as interscye fold front, interscye fold back, bust circumference, neck circumference, and waist back length, and pattern 2, pattern 4, and pattern 5 were made based on bust circumference and waist back length. As a result of the appearance evaluation, Pattern 3 was evaluated as the best pattern in all items except for the suitability of the center front length and the suitability of the side waist circumference position. However, it was evaluated as inappropriate in items such as the vertical side line, the suitability of the side waist circumference line position, the suitability of interscye fold back position and shape, and the suitability of the back shoulder dart position. Most of the pattern drafting methods are based on the size of the bust circumference, but other institutional methods are considered necessary when setting the neck circumference and shoulder length for 20s obesity women. In addition, it is also required to develop a method for setting the front center length due to abdominal protrusion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.131-138
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to measure Korean, Chinese and Chosunjok college women's body part sizes, and then, classify their body shapes according to the drop value(hip circumference-chest circumference) as well as their statures, and thereupon, comparatively analyze the statistical distribution of their major body part measurements and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to the development of quality fitting apparels exportable to China. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Most of Korean and Chinese college women were found to belong to the body type of "N" body shape, while many of Chosunjok college women belonged to "H" body shape body type characterized by normal stature but small difference between hip and chest circumferences. The most prevailing body type of Korean and Chinese college women next to "N" type(65%, 51%) was "H" (23%, 35%), followed by "A" type(12%, 14%), while that of Chosunjok college women was "H" type (54%), followed by "N" (40%) and "A" type (6%). On the other hand, in terms of distribution of major body part sizes, there was found a wide difference between Chinese and Korean college women. Chosunjok college women had similar body part sizes to Korean college women's in such measurements as waist back length, shoulder-to-shoulder length, front interscye length, back interscye length, under-chest circumference and weight, while having simliar body part sizes to Chinese college women's in such measures as stature, arm length, waist front length, waist side-hip line length, crotch length, head circumference, neck-root circumference and waist circumference.