• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.113-127
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• 2008

Artificial lights have effected the changes of art and fashion concepts as well as human life since the invention of electric light bulb in late 19th century. Artist and designer have had more interested in these artificial lights as the development of digital technology and the change of millennium and they have tried to apply the lights into their works. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of contemporary fashion design using artificial light as a medium. Artificial light for fashion design means the light using luminescent material like phosphorescent and fluorescent materials or in combination with electroluminescent digital technology or the light that can be perceived as images when light projects from media using a light projector or other digital equipment. Fashion design using this light type can change colors or form temporarily and it can playa role as a gadget for hm or as equipment to provide information much as a computer monitor does. And designer can create virtual patterns on the surface of clothes, or virtual fashion like a 3-dimensional holography in empty space. In these fashion designs, the virtual image of light is substituted for physical formative elements in fashion, and the viewer can experience an ambiguity between reality and virtuality. The results of the study were as follow; The formative characteristics of those fashion designs were identified as visibility, indeterminacy, integration and virtuality. And they reflected the internal meanings; the persue of protection and safety, the search for experiment and innovation, the will for interaction and communication and the desire for the deviation and fun.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.94-110
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the swag style which has diversified into various forms by exploring the phenomenon, formative characteristics and the internal values of the swag style in modern fashioin. This study discusses the concept and the socio-cultural meanings of swag from the perspective of Jean Baudrillard's hyper-reality, and a form of existence. The classifies the swag fashion styles into parody, hip hop and collage-type mix-and-match. Expressive characteristics of the swag look in modern fashion are as follows. First, the swag look utilizes the parody technique. In the mid-2000s, the look parodied brand logos as a form of self-mocking and active self-derision toward cheap imitations. Second, the swag look borrows from the expressive factors of the hip-hop style. Born as a sub-culture based on music, hip-hop has become a way of life, as its nature became multi-cultural and trans-cultural while its fashion style gained popularity globally after the 1980s. Third, the swag look barrows from the pop-type collage form as it mixes-and-matches costume items based on the expressive characteristics of hip hop, and this can be seen through items being used in new, non-formative and free styles. Comic aesthetics is revealed in parodied expression, hip-hop factors and collage-style mix-and-match. Swag as a hyper-reality manifests itself in various natures: humorous nature, negative nature and deconstructive nature through reflection and re-enactment of reality, transmutation and distortion of reality, and absence of reality respectively. However, it does not have a binding nature, which is the norm for subcultures. This characteristic, in combination with it having internal lightness, strong meaning of communication, and a sharing of self-contentment, distinguishes itself from the general meanings of existing parody fashion, hip-hop fashion and collage fashion.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.109-117
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• 2011

This study identified characteristics of Christmas window display, which is one of visual marketing methods used in department stores, using cases of department stores in Seoul and the New York and to compare the characteristics between Seoul and New York department stores in order to extract the directions and components of window display in each country. Based on the photographs of Christmas window display at the sampled Seoul and New York department stores, we analyzed the window display of each department store. From the results of analysis were drawn conclusions as follows. First, as to the direction of Christmas window display design in Seoul and New York department stores, window display was designed using various themes according to the characteristic of each department store. In case of Seoul department stores, however, specific luxury brands linked to the characteristics of the department stores displayed their products separately, but in New York department stores, various Christmas themes, images related to the department stores, and products were displayed together according to the characteristic of the department stores. Second, among display components, the formative structure and the frequency of mannequin use were different between Seoul and New York department stores. Various formative structures and diverse mannequins used in the window display of New York department stores played the role of stamping the brand image of each department store and exhibiting various designs through window display.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.69-88
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the New-Hanbok style in modern fashion, and to survey its formative characteristics and internal values from the perspective of vernacular design. Arguments can be summed up as follows. The study historically examines the changes in Hanbok and concludes that the social and cultural backgrounds and factors that caused the advent of the New Hanbok are (1) the change and expansion of the basic social, cultural, and popular perception toward the Korean image, (2) the rapid spread of a subculture centering on the younger generation, and (3) the voluntary and systematic activities of nonprofit clubs, communities and private organizations. This is the cycle of the spread of Hanbok, which shows the subcultural selection and development process of upward propagation. Furthermore, the public, in addition to holding fast to an independent attitude regarding their choices, also show that they tolerate diversity. As a perspective of analyzing the New Hanbok style, the study suggests the characteristics of the vernacular design perspective as (1) a spontaneous indigenous nature (2) living everydayness (3) and the subcultural-ness of the era. From such a perspective, the study examines the formative characteristics of the basic costume configuration of the New Hanbok style including jeogori, traditional Korean skirts, Cheollik one-pieces, and Trompe l'oeil one-pieces, and draws out the meanings contained in the New Hanbok style, which are (1) spontaneous indigenous nature and directivity toward tradition, (2) living everydayness and modernity, and (3) open subcultural-ness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.141-158
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• 2016

The objective of this study is to examine the type and characteristics of hat, and also to analyze the formative characteristics of hats shown in $Pr{\hat{e}}t-{\grave{a}}$-porter Collection. The literature review focused on the relevant technical books and preceding researches while the case study targeted 1,561 photos of hats shown in the 'Donga TV Collection'. The research range was from the S/S season of 2012 to the F/W season of 2015/16. The results of this study are as follows. 1. A hat is composed of crown and brim. In the results of classifying hats based on it, there were 572 crown-type hats, 533 hat-type, 219 cap-type, 156 irregular-type, and 81 brim-type in the order. 2. For the crown-type hats, they were mainly like cylindrical-type, bell-type, dome-type, and circle-type, using colors like black, beige, brown, red, mustard, and grey, and materials like wool, fur, velvet, straw, and metal while they were decorated with bead or lace. 3. For the hat-type hats, they were mainly like bell-type, ladder-type, and hemisphere-type, using colors like peach, white, gold, brown, and khaki, and materials like silk, cotton, straw, and wool while they were decorated with feather and ribbon. 4. For the cap-type hats, they were mainly like hemisphere-type, using colors like white, black, khaki, mustard, and purple, and materials like fur, leather, and wool while they were decorated with wappen and chain. 5. For the irregular-type hats, they were mainly like sandglass-type, box-type, animal-type, trumpet-type, and bell-type, using colors like purple, orange, pink, yellow, and sky-blue, and materials like metal, feather, mesh, plastic, straw, and linen while they were decorated with ribbon, net, bell, and flower. 6. For the brim-type visor, they were mainly like square-type, using colors like transparent, yellow, and black, and materials like plastic, cotton, leather, and metal.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.10 no.11
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• pp.265-271
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• 2020

This study aims to help the creative idea of nail art design and the expansion of artistic realm by presenting nail art applied with dot, line, and plane, which are the basic elements of the sculpture that make up the space for visual expression of nail art. The research method considered the concepts and characteristics of the molding elements through professional books, prior research, and Internet website. Along with various expression techniques, the characteristics of dot, line, and plane were applied to nail art and expressed as visual messages, and a total of six works were produced according to each characteristic. This research aims to find a new perspective on nail art expression by reinterpreting the characteristics of dot, line, and plane, which are formative elements, in an artistic approach, and to contribute to enhancing the infinite possibilities of nail art design by utilizing them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.62-78
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• 2005

The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.141-153
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• 2010

Fashion needs to be understood as practicality and creative behavior and various movements of paintings act as inspirations of original design for fashion designers. This study seeks to find sources of fashion designs in the works of Mark Rothko who is in the center of color-field abstract. Color-field of Rothko provides infinite inspirations as colors are identically treated as shapes and lighting and textures are all included on top of it. In this study, the purpose is to create color focused artistic fashion design by exploring the possibility of expression with the colors of Rothko as the main motive. The study method is as follows. First, the concept and significance of color-field abstract are researched through documented data. Works of Rothko is divided into three periods according to their characteristics. The background of the formation of color-field abstract of Rothko is understood by analyzing the trends of the works in each period. Second, twenty representative works from 1949 to 1969 are selected and analyzed in formative components of color, shape and textures in order to more accurately understand shape of colors, brilliance, simplicity that appear in the mature color-field abstract of Rothko. Third, preexisting methods of color-field of paintings developed into motives of clothing are studied focusing on the collections from 1997 to 2006. Examples of applications of color-field images in modern fashion designs are analyzed. Fourth, motives are selected based on general characteristics of color-field abstract of Rothko and the results of the formative analysis. Clothing is produced that expresses the colors of the paintings of Rothko more effectively. As the results of the study, restrained shapes and textures and various forms of color combinations shown in color-field abstract of Rothko provided deep inspirations on material composition and color planning for fashion design focused on colors. Additionally, needle-punching technique using wool for the production technique enabled relief texture expressions of materials by colors and effective applications of soft and warm atmosphere of color-field abstract of Rothko on clothing. Especially, the ideology of color-field abstract of Rothko of shaping of colors could be expressed and the direction of the development of motives could be presented at the same time by specifically applying color combination method using horizontal division of atypical color-field from the formative characteristics of color-field abstract of Rothko.