• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.804-812
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• 2017

This study builds a database that can be reflected in the production of dress form for fitting by typifying the upper body shape of a senior male. This study analyzed the 3D shape data of 405 persons of the 5th Size Korea. The age range is from 50s 210 persons and 60s 205 persons. Analysis items to identify upper body shape of senior males consisted of 51 items. 3D shape data were also measured using a Geomagic Design ${\times}$ program for the analysis of the upper body of the senior male required for the dress form of this study. The reference point was based on the Size Korea 2010 3D measurement standard and created points (Back-protrusion) on shape data. As a result of the senior men type, the senior men's body type was classified into four types:1. Overall, the upper body is a large body type and the most undistorted overall body type 2. Width / Thickness Flatness is the largest and vertical length factor is the smallest abdominal obesity type 3. Severe flexion of the back part type 4. The upper body is small and the scapular bending is severe. The elderly body type showed a high distribution ratio in the type with severe flexion. The development of a dress form that reflects the cause of the finery issue can improve the fit of ready-to-wear.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.155-172
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• 2002

The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 1900s by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 1990s makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the modems and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and demonstrative study with fashion photographs have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism in the 1990s has been developed in different ways from the analogies in the beginning of the 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology Pure functionalism related to minimalism. casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort and symbolic functionalism. Mechanical analogy has been developed into techno functionalism. Pure functionalism has come from the blend of mechanical and moral analogy, casual functionalism from mechanical. organic and moral analogy. and symbolic functionalism from organic and moral analogy. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in the 1990s. The 20th century general cultural phenomena including post modernism can be explained by eclectic functionalism. Functionalism considering Practical and conceptional functions ill continue and techno functionalism and casual functionalism in future fashion design will be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the first birthday Hanboks on Internet shopping malls and to find the reason why the costume has various types. From April to May 2012, first birthday costumes were sold on 154 Internet shopping mall sites. On 48 of the shopping malls, traditional Hanboks were sold, on 33 of the shopping malls, fusion Hanboks were sold, and on 73 of the shopping malls, Western formal wear was sold. The percentage of the Hanboks and Western costumes for the first birthday was almost the same. Boys costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Magoja, Joggi, Jeogori, and Baji" or 'Baeja, Jeogori, and Baji" with Jeonbok or Sagyusam. Boys' headgear consisted of Bokgun and Hogun. Girls' costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Chima' or 'Dangui, Chima or Seuranchima'. Girls' headgear was Gulle, Jobawui, and Baessidaenggi. Boys' costumes in the fusion Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Baji, and Wanggunmo' which is different from the traditional Hanbok in materials, colors, and parts of construction. Girls' costumes in the fusion Hanbok could be divided into 3 different types; a modified traditional skirt, Chima, 'Chima and Jeogori" with new materials and colors, and Western dress with traditional materials. The first birthday Hanboks on the Internet shopping malls are simple and convenient compared to the traditional ones. Furthermore, parts of the costumes are influenced by some popular historical dramas. One of the reasons why the costumes have changed is because the customers have few experiences about traditional Korean costumes and their interests have been affected by the modern media.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.213-220
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• 2004

This study shows the result of the survey conducted for male adults who had to use wheelchairs. The objectives of this study are to develop and improve the clothes for the disabled people and to make those garments put into practice. For this purpose, the survey was conducted at first so as to understand the situation of the disabled peoples wearing clothes and the garment demands. This survey is to suggest the suited form of the pants they want. The result of the study is as follows. 1) The average age of the subjects was 38.4 years old. They have used wheelchairs for 12 years on the average. Most subjects two limbs were paralyzed because of the acquired spinal paralysis. 60 percent of them were wearing the urine bags all the time. The average size of the pants they purchased was 39 inches, which means that their waist and abdominal circumstance were very big. 2) Regarding the situation of wearing habits, although the subjects usually purchased ready-to-wear, most of them are very dissatisfied with them. Especially, they considered the size as their main dissatisfaction. The main concern for buying garments was how comfortable and mobile they are while wearing them. They also needed outdoor garments. Lastly, they looked forward to the shop specialized in the garments for disabled people. 3) The functional pants for adult men using wheelchairs had the same zipper as that of general pants. The waist belt was made of rubber to reduce the pressure on waist and to cover 2 inches (5 cm) of waist circumference. Also it should be made to secure each button within the belt in accordance with size. Finally, it was designed as formal wrinkled pants that had pockets within the reach of hands when the disabled used wheelchairs.

• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.71-80
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• 2012

The Kut is the core of the traditional folk religion. The afterlife wedding Kut actually performs a traditional wedding ceremony by personifying the deceased in the process of performing the composition of Kut geori that cannot be observed from other Kuts, which is an important means to convey the situation of Kut more clearly. A traditional wedding ceremony performed in the Kut enables the audience to understand the meaning behind the Kut. The costume worn in the traditional wedding ceremony of the afterlife wedding Kut makes the audience understand the existence of the deceased by the use of a scarecrow dialect and makes them feel a vivid sense of the scene emitting from the Kut, which performs a traditional wedding ceremony in the composition of Kut geori. The results of this study showed that a shaman who led the afterlife wedding Kut had a scarecrow that symbolized the bride and a bridegroom wear the traditional wedding costume in order to visualize the deceased and express the symbol of a wedding which could not be made in this world. It can be interpreted that the traditional costume derived from the afterlife wedding Kut plays a symbolic role, which converts the deceased into a living person through the formal aspect of ceremonial costume and the cultural aspect of wedding ceremony.

• 복식
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• 제65권4호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2015

The subject of study is about the illustrations of the round collar Po(袍類) in the Akhak-gwebeom(樂學軌範) which was published in 1493. These illustrations are painted records of what musicians and dancers in the palace were wearing during performances. While each illustration of the Po is similar in that they all have round collars, each has a different name Sam(衫), Ui(衣), Dallyeong(團領) and formative characteristics, and these features were analyze in the study. Sam refers to the Gongbok(公服) as it has long and big sized sleeves, Ui is the word used to represent the basic unit of outerwear, and Dallyeong is believed to refer to the Sibok(時服) and Sangbok(常服). In the formative aspects, Sam's auxiliary sleeve is one of the ways wearing the sleeve of innerwear shown outward and it's assumed to have been produced for visually matching the formal look as well as the convenience free to use of hands. The Mu of Dan-ui(丹衣) is less than the number of the excavated artifacts, it produced in a relatively simplified form. Also, illustration of Dallyeong corresponds to the artifacts and configuration of the 15th to 16th centuries, the costume culture of that time seems to be reflected specifically. While Hyungbae(胸背) used in the form of rectangles and circles such as petals. it tried to represent the country at the official event by borrowing the upper class in the costume that musicians and dancers wear, also showed the rank and social status symbolically by having the differences in the shape and pattern. While the costume culture at the time is reflected, it can be found that the objective of raising the country's dignity is implied by transforming the detailed structure for the practicality, borrowing the costume elements of the high social status and transformed them.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.233-242
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• 1992

This study primarily concentrates on the Fashion Style of the New Generation which has come into being in 1980 with reference to the contents of the newspaper and magazine in 1950's. . The New Generation has undergone the social and cultural change under the effect of mass communication, mass consumption brought by the economic development, sports boom promoted during the period of Asian Games and Seoul Olympic Games and the adoption of the policy for the autonomous school uniform. In the process of the social and cultural change, they have the common peculiarity such as sensitivity, anthoritarianism and polarity and they have taken an important part in the development of the 'Young Fashion' The characteristics of their fashion styles are divided into three periods as follows; 1. The rising period (1980-1982): The most important pecuriality of the first step can be sum up to the following point. The free fashion style replaced the formal one such as T-shirt or casual wear comes into as a everyday dress. Moreover, many people become interested in the New Fashion which is gradually diversified and high-qualified. As a natural consequence, the lively interest of the people has brought into the appearance and competition of the New Brand in fashion industry 2. The growing period (1983-1986): Mannish Look, so-called 'New Fashion' gained the summit of the fashion and change over conservatively. However, 'Mannish Look' have great effect on the Fashion Style until now on. Specially in Korea, 'Punk Style'and 'Androgynous Look' can be an example among many. 3. The diversifying period (1987-1989): The Fashion Style has developed variously even though the Reactionism takes the lead as the main current of the Korean Fashion. Moreover, it is noticeable that man comes into the stage as a new fashion group and the fashion market begins to dear in various lines of goods with moderate and low prices. These various aspects can be regarded as diversification in the Fashion Style as the needs in the times and society.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제4권1_2호
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• pp.11-18
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• 1980

This study attempts to discern the purchasing pattern of urban husbands' clothing in Korea. Studies on this subject in other cultures show that wives play lesser role in purchasing activities of their husbands' clothing in the industrial societies rather than in the pre-industrial ones. It would be interesting to know the way selecting and buying husbands' clothing in urban Korea. Specifically questions to be answered include: Who makes the decision in selecting in kinds of husbands' clothing and who buy them? Data for this study has been collected through structured questionaire survey for 606 married women in the City of Seoul including 192 mothers of elementary school students, 58 elementary school teachers, 210 mothers of middle and high school students, 56 mothers of undergraduate students, and 47 college professors. Since most women of our sample are relatively high in educational level and working for various educational institutions, the findings of this study should not be generalized as a general trend of urban Korea. Major findings of this study include: 1) Purchasing husbands' clothing is not entirely wives' domain. The degree of participation on the part of wives in selecting and buying of their husbands' clothing depends upon the kinds of clothings. If it is for such items as underwear, socks, handkerchief, or umbrella, which are relatively easy to choose in terms of size, outlook, and price, more wives do the job. Other- wise, however, husbands more actively participate in selecting and buying their own clothings such as shoes, overcoats, neck tie, and formal wear. 2) In terms of clothing behavior of husbands, it seems to be a general trend that husbands select their clothings, but wives buy them. 3) Variables related to socio-economic status seem to affect the clothing behavior of husbands. Those who more actively participate in selecting and buying their clothings include: husbands whose wives have a job outside thier family, younger in age, middle school or high school graduates rather than college graduate or husbands with far lesser education, and husbands who live in western style houses rether than in traditional Korean houses.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.1155-1166
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• 2001

The purposes of this research were 1) to identify shopping orientation according to customer's personality type, 2) to examine perceived importance of service and satisfaction of service related to customer's personality type, 3) to find the relationships of evaluation of salesperson's service and re-purchase intention in each of customer's personality types. The data were collected via self-administered questionnaires from 434 female formal wear shoppers. and were analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, ANOVA, Chi-square test, and multiple regression analysis. The results of this study were as follows: Shopping orientations varied according to customer's personality type. E type had stronger Hedonic/self-confidence than I type, F type had higher Depending decision making than T type and P type had higher Quick decision making than J type. And service items satisfied the customers with a certain personality type. E type was satisfied with timely and proper A/S, not forcing to purchase and trustful behavior of salesperson more than I Type was. And also with expertise, individualized care, polite attitude, and merchandising promotion. N type was satisfied with individualized care more than S type was. A service evaluation criterion affected the re-purchase intention for a customer with a certain personality type. Customer's convenience in E. I. S, N, T, F, J types had a significant effect on re-purchase intention. And Expertise/ care in E, N, T, J types had a positive effect on re-purchase intention. also Politeness in E, I, S, N, T, J, P types did. But in only E type, Merchandising promotion affected re-purchase intention.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.281-296
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• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.