• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.485-500
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the formal wear for social activity of dwarf. Second investigation for choices of designs based upon data from the first questionnaire investigation, led us to make proposals for design, pattern production, garment-cutting and dressmaking. The effect of wearing the made-up garments was carefully evaluated in order to establish principles for the development of clothes for dwarf. Conclusion is as follow. Dwarf felt uneasy in conventional street dress. When buying clothes their most important criteria was design wanted clothes that would help them to look taller. Analysis of design preference to complement perceived physical weak points revealed: 'a pink ensemble' comprising of a high-waist, one-piece dress, and a black slacks suit comprising of a striped, single-breasted, tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse. It was found that a bolero jacket and a high-waist, ankle-length, one-piece dress helped create an optical illusion of increased height, for both the wearer and an observer. A pastel ton-pink, one-piece also created this effect on small bodily types, as well as offering a silky, mellow attractiveness. A suit of a striped, single-breasted tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse, created the two fold illusion of disguising hip imbalance with the length of the jacket and drawing an onlooker\`s gaze to the wearer\`s face through the tailored collar, they also looked taller due to the stripes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.523-531
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• 2001

The objective of this study was to trace the origins of the costume terminologies and to identify the meanings of the names of costumes of the Chosun Period. Such terms as dukgai 得盖, murot gai 무롯지 or murukai 무루깨, bal 발, bigya 비갸, bium 비음, samachi 사마치, chiene 처네, chienui 薦衣 were included in this research can be summarized as follows: It appeared that similar words to dukagai were found in the languages such as the language of the arctic regions, Mongolians, English, Sumerian, and Latin. It is considered that dukgai of Chosun was related to L. toga. The word murot gai or murukai as a kind of head covering had its origins in Korean meaning to cover or to wear. Also it was found that the word bal was derived from L.palla meaning a robe, cloak or mantle. Korean bal 발 meant a dang jugori 당저고리 or dang go ui, a kind of women\`s formal outer dress. It was found that word bium or biim, a garment of Yi Chosun was similar to Ass. birmu, a garment. The word, samachi of Yi Chosun was derived from the Manchurien word samachi meaning a kind of military skirt. The word, chiene 처네 or chienui was derived from the Chinese chien (Equatopms. See Full-text) that means a skirt, a child\`s covering, a sheet, and women\`s underwear.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.34-36
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• 2001

Chirimen (silk crepe) has been one of Japan's most distinctive textiles since times and has gained a reputation worldwide as the supreme example of Japanese costume. It is because of its distinctive quality and features, transcending the history, lacation and lacal of the people who wear this form of clothing, that chirimen has continued to highly valued over a long historical period. There is a wide range of literature on the subject of chirimen written from the standpoints of introducing the various types of material, discussing its history, and looking at the origins of the textile unions. However, most such writings are little more than fragmentary attempts to describe these matters from an empirical and publicity-oriented position. Very little serious research has ever been published in this area. In the present study I examine the features of chirimen. I began by directly interviewing kimono wholesalers, kimono stores and Western-style clothing stores on the subject of chirimen in order to establish a clear image of this fabric. I then went on to examine the subject experimentally in terms of the physical properties of the fabric in connection with the features of this image. In the study of the physical properties of the material, I selected habutae as a silk fabric to offer comparisons with chirimen. Habutae is used frequently together with chirimen in garments such as semi-formal visiting kimono (homongi), kimono in non-color fabric (ironashiji), mouming kimono (mofuku), broad-sleeved kimono (tomesode and furisode), and undergarments such ad juban.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.550-564
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to investigate the consumer's claims related to clothing merchandise. By th origination stage of claims, details of claims, and treatments of claims purchasing places of clothing merchandise, the consumer's claims are analyzed which were lodged to in consumer's complaint center, Seoul YWCA, in 1981-1990. To analyze these data statistically, frequency and percentile are used. The results of analysis for consumer's claims are as next : 1. Concerning the sex distinction, female complainers are more than male complainers. About the age bracket, twenties and thirties are the most numerous. The originations of claims being various. It is laundry and dry cleaning stage out of them that rank first, and total numbers of claims for clothing products continually have increased during 1981-1990. Out of the clothing items, outerwears are of the first rank and formal wear and coat are highest in rank of outerwears. For claims about purchasing places, agency ranked first and market, department store, custome-made and discount store came after in order. 2. Concerning the contents, quality of clothing product ranks first, inferior service, price, contrast, unfair transaction ranks in order. There are claims about quality of clothing product that color change ranks first and damage and form change rank in order. 3. The treatments of claims are that counsel, exchange, refund, repair and correction rank in order.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1547-1557
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find the profitable clothes design of middle-aged men by examining visual effects in physical design. The methode of study is experimentation. The sample of this study is people who live in Kwangiu, Korea and 20-50 age's 719. The difference of physical design effect by arrangement, pattern and the shape of body. There are partly resemblance difference in physical design visual effect by the shape of body and clothes design(arrangement and pattern)In weak type, single suit with striped pattern and double suit with check pattern make the upper body look short. Otherwise, double suit with striped pattern have man look tall. In standard type, single arrangement suit with striped pattern make the lower half of body long, so make man look tall. And double arrangement suit with striped pattern have man look tall. The suit without pattern have one's shoulder look wide. In pyknic type, striped pattern make the lower half of one's body look long. But single arrangement with striped pattern have the upper body look big. sing1e suit with striped pattern make lower half of body look long and check pattern make it look short. Totally, arrangement, and pattern are very important clothes due to give an effect on whole visual effect man's suit. Also, these dues were felt differently by each types of body. So, it is confirmed that the type of body is important fluent to make people perceive.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.111-126
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• 1999

Apparel purchase behaviors were investigated for the high school girls grouped by attitude toward fashion. Differences in attitudes toward fashion were also investigated among the groups determined by demographic characteristics. Data were collected by a self-administered questionnaire survey to 600 high school girls living in Seoul, and 480 were used for the data analysis. Cluster analysis, Chi-sguare analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan\`s multiple range test were used for data analysis. Technical school students and those who spending higher amount of monthly allowances showed favorable attitudes toward fashion. Based on the attitudes toward fashion, respondents were classified into 3 groups : fashion-oriented(32.3%), fashion-conformed(47.3%), and unconcerned(20.4%). Among the 3 groups, the Fashion-oriented tended to make purchase decision for clothing based on there own, or peer\`s opinions, to use personal sources for information search, to spend more money for clothing, and to consider design and brand names as the most important criteria when purchasing apparel products than the less fashion-oriented did. Among clothing styles popular to students, the most appropriately perceived for student wear were semi-formal style, and the least appropriate ones were wearing bold colored and patterned underwear for the purpose of showing out. Most of the popular styles among high school girls were perceived less than appropriate student\`s attire.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.873-889
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• 2014

The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.87-96
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyse the characteristics of style, color and items of street fashion in Harbin. This kind of study will contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for the strategic establishments of design and marketing in Korean brand launching into China. The results of this study are as follows. The preferred fashion style is casual one, rather than formal one. The order of preference in casual wear is character, jean and sports casual. In the view of color, preference in top color is, white, black, brown and pink. In the bottom, it is blue, white, black and brown. In one-piece, it is white, blue and brown. Throughout all items, the most frequently founded color is white, which might be ascribed to the seasonal influence of summer. The Chinese specific preference of color could not be observed. In aspect of items, the one-piece takes the proportions of more than half of the all the items. The typical details of one-piece dress are irregular hemline and asymmetrical line. While knee length takes proportion of 70%, in item of skirt, the full length is 46.8% in frequency for pants. In one-piece, knee length is 80% amounted as first rank, followed by midi and mini.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.151-158
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to develop high-quality naturally dyed leisurewear with images of traditional Korean clothing that keeps a psychologically comfortable and physically pleasant environment at home and in vacation spots. The root bark of elm trees, the atopic skin, is also known to be effective for the relief of rhinitis and atopic diseases as well as stress and insomnia. However, there is insufficient color in the bark for the dyeing of fashion products, so to compensate for the lack of color, for dyeing purposes it was combined with a composite extract called Rubia akane Nakai resulting in a relatively bright red color. Except for the light fastness, all the fastnesses were rated 4 to 5, showing excellent results. Through complex dyeing using elm bark and pods extract the author produced four high-quality vests, one-piece, a gown, and jeogori-pantsuits of silk materials with Korean images that are suitable wear for relaxing comfortably at home and during breaks and which provide a comfortable and physically pleasant experience. The vest was made with the formal style of Bae-ja and Dang-eu, the dress is made of Cheok-lik, and the gown is made of Wonsam. It will be meaningful at a time when the importance of rest is increasing due to the healing clothes worn by busy modern people.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2005

The realistic plan to establish a silver market in the clothing industries has not taken concrete shape, although the interest in the establishment of a silver market targeting the aged as a new custom group Is gradually Increasing because the rapid development of science and medical technology in the 20th century has led to an extension of lift and improvement of living conditions. The specialized business which produces and sells the clothing for the elderly is of small number and most of the clothes for the elderly are manufactured and sold by the companies for women's clothing in which change the size or length of the original works rather than reflect the bodily features of the elderly. The findings indicated that domestic brands showed the coordinated concept of a suit of jacket and slacks or skirts while the clothes were formed with a variety of coordinations centering around single article in the U.S brands. But, there was no difference in the use of natural materials centering around cotton and silk etc. and in the use of embroidery, lace and decorative details between the two countries. The knit brands of knit suit style in Korea were formed with the items focused on pull over and cardigan twin set, while the U.S brands were mainly formed with the design of knit suit style. The domestic knit brands were mostly developed with complicated patterns and gorgeous colors, while most of the U.S. brands were presenting a single or two tone color suit style and evening one-piece dress with a simple and modern style. The sporty casual brands of sporty casual style in Korea had a variety of colors and patterns focused on function and comfort for diverse leisure activities and daily life, while the U.S brands were established to present a variety of styles with the items of single article because they had a separate brand for casual even though it was not a exclusive brand for the elderly This study has a meaning in the presentation of the design idea considering the bodily shape of the elderly compared to the ready-to-wear considering the size alone, by examining the characteristics of bodice according to the physical change of the elderly women, analyzing the design of madam brand and the style of the ready-to-wear, researching the general circumstances of the brand for the elderly women, and highlighting the necessity of the elderly clothing market.