• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.12 no.34
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• pp.743-769
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• 1974

Au debut I'habit Iiturgique ne differait de I'habit de fete du simple citoyen que par sa richesse. C'est seulement quand, dans la vie courante, on adopta la robe courte que le vetememt liturgique commenca a se distinguer, meme par la forme, du costume civil. Les ornements liturgiques, en effet, ne sont qu'une forme stylisee de l'habit de fete de la fin de l'Empire Romain (du IIIeme au Veme siecle). Pour une ceremonie religieuse on se presente bien habille. Le meme sentiment de respect des choses sacrees a amene deja, vers la fin de l'antiquite chretienne, a donner au pretre un vetememt liturgique special. Pour celebrer la messe, le pretre revet par-dessus sa soutane un costume special, compose de l'amict, de l'aube, du cordon, du manipule, de l'etole et de la chasuble. Aux messes solennelles, les eveques ajoutent a ces ornements des bas et sandales, des gants, la tunique et la dalmatique avee la mitre ; en certain cas, les archeveques y joingnent le pallium. Aux messes solennelles, le diacre porte sur ; l'aube le manipule et la tunique. De ces pieces du costume liturgique, on dira brievement, apres leur emploi et leur forme actel, l'origine et l'histoire, mais seulement apres avoir marque les lignes generales parition et des transformations du costume liturgique dans son ensemble. L'evolution du costume liturgique a partir du XIIIeme siecle peut se resumer en quelques mots en raison souvent de la lourdeur des riches etoffes (velours et brocarts) et de l'importance donne a la decoration, toujours par rechereche d'une plus grande commodite on a abandonne lentement d'abord, puis rapidement adapte a partir du XVI eme siecle, les formes amples pour des formes courtes et etriquees. Il faut faire quelques exceptions qui marquent l'influence des gouts decoratifs de gouts epoque : La periode de 1700 a 1850 marque la complete decadence du costum liturgique. On a depuis essaye de lui rendre sa beaute et aussi sa signification symbolique, par un retour aux etoffes et a la decoration de la deuxieme partie du moyen age. Souhations que, sous la direction des liturgistes, en respectant l'essentiel de la liturgie aujourd'hui, avec le concours d'artistes epris du sens liturgique et des connaisseurs des tradtions et de toutes les ressources actuelles on trouve des costumes liturgiques adaptes a notre temps dans un style plus simple et correspondant au besoins actuels.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.43-54
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• 2002

Some factors had influence upon the grotesque image formation expressed in fashion: for instance, thanatos, religions, fin de siecle (end of the century), the aesthetics of ugliness, subculture group's resistance and technology development, etc. Those factors have formed a grotesque while exchanging influence each other, and have following features: First, the thanatos, which is destructive and aggressive instinct of the inner world of human being, creates frightening object and motif to form the images of grotesque. Second, from religious point of view, the church made the Devil a tool for maintenance of power: They manipulated physical body and give a damage to it to sublimate it in holy existence, so that they could feel catharsis. Third, there was fin de siecle (end of the century) to let people have negative life attitude, such as uneasiness on following century, eschatology, skepticism and nihilism, etc. Fourth, the ugliness having unpleasantness and disharmony occupies governing position when our society becomes corrupted and uneasy, and the aesthetics of ugliness discloses the inconsistency of ideal and beautiful life in the grotesque images. Fifth, subculture groups, i.e., the lower classes, homosexual and the youth's group, etc, form the grotesque images by political and ideological resistance, complaints and specific identity, etc concerning governing culture keeping traditional ethics consciousness. Sixth, recent technology development has destroyed a boundary between human being and machinery, and bio-technology development has created transplant operation, plastic operation and other human body transformation operations, and genome research, etc has raised human being's identity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.382-396
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.73-85
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• 2002

Decadence is a phenomenon that people express fear from their inside, so unsound aspects appear in the social culture when the existing society is about to be collapsed. This study covered the cultural and aesthetic meaning and the role of decadence by examining the concept and phenomenon of it and analyzing the real case of expression appeared in the modern fashion. Characteristics of decadent phenomenon were divided into sexual corruption, ideality, cynicism and extreme technique, and decadent expression appeared in the fashion images was examined based on the divided phenomenon. Main results are as fellows. People bring the incidents that animals go through into relief, sticking to animal instinct when the society is on the decline. At that time, sexual decadence becomes remarkable, so voyeurism by exposure in their dress is deepen, revealing abnormal sexual propensity with bisexual tendency and sexual perversion. The real facts and appearance of people are revealed by transforming and distorting bodies for the fear of humans inside suppressed in the fin-de-siecle mood. The sense of alienation and helplessness of people anxious about the future is developed to cynicism expressing the uncertain emotion in their dress, and the formative methods of dismantlement. destruction and abrasion appear to form sickly images in the gloomy and cold mood. The intention of affirmative decadence is realized by mixing heterogeneous styles and producing new things. Extreme decorative technique and gorgeousness are even mysterious and show the highest refinement.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.436-499
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to be inquired social and cultural significance of the Grotesque phenomenon in the late 1990's make-up, as well as its experimentalism and avantgardism. The Grotesque is the aesthetic concept, which is composed of ambivalent structure of humor and horror, interest and disgust through join of heterogenous factors, distortion, extreme and overstatement in the patterns and materials of make-up. The Grotesque in the modern make-up is represented in the make-up advertisements and collections. In this paper, the author classified the Grotesque phenomenon with the Kitsch, the Machine, the Animal and the Devil, focused on heterogenous factors. The results are as follows. 1. The Kitsch in the make-up uses not cosmetics but imitations, ready-made goods, and ordinary materials. It expresses modern culture's laziness through shocking self-expression. 2. The Machine in the make-up means silver or white color's make-up, and represents cyber period's arrival through contrary irony, loss of the human value and the personifications of machine. At the same time, it is understood as the curing of human alinetion. 3. The Animal in the make-up utilizes the wild animal's horn, the reptiles'sputum, and the legend's animal. It points out a human false virtual image, and overturns make-up's traditional aesthetic concept. 4. The Devil in the make-up shows vampire's cuspid, demon's horn, artificial nail, and black color's make-up. It raises social irrationality and discrepancy of capitalism, and expresses paradoxically the nature of human life. The Devil in the make-up expresses the creator's innovation, anxiety of fin-de-siecle, and simultaneously criticizes and cures confused reality. It shows also avantgarde implementation of dissolution of traditional aesthetic concept and acceptance ugliness.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.180-192
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• 2008

The historian called Peter Burger divided it into historical avant-garde before and after the first World War (Dadaism, Futurist, Geometric Abstract, etc.) and Neo- avant-garde during the period of forming social foundation that would be ready to accept new forms of art in the USA, the center of capitalism, after the 2nd World War such as pop art and conceptual art including the then emerging avant-garde minimal art. Meanwhile, he interpreted that Neo- avant-garde succeeded the spirit of historical avant-garde. For modem furniture, the avant-garde terminologies are discussed from the aspect of epistemology or symbolism. On the other hand, they would be exclusively used for advertising slogans, however, it is considered as difficult due to vague terms or their characteristics. This study relates the points of historians such as Peter Burger for theoretical proposal and Richard Kostelanetz's point for formal issues, and contracts and arranges the avant-garde terminologies and its characteristics to the meaning of "getting out of the present decadent trend - aiming for future", "transcending the present aesthetic custom - renovation" and "violating the rules already established in the process of entering new areas - freshness of unfairness". The study was meaningful in providing fundamental clues based on the historical discussion and artists for Neo- avant-garde in the 1960s, that is, the mainstream of design at the end of the 20th century in the period when an avant-garde oriented alternative in the 21st century design has been sincerely required overflowed with the fin de siecle phenomenon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.63-73
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to be of use for more successful prediction of possible Prevailing aesthetic characteristics in the future, by reviewing how decadent features have actually been unfolded in fashion and make-up since the end of 20th century, as we are now in the new 21st century. The decadent traits of modern fashion and make-up since the late'90s could be listed as follows : first, the fashion has intentionally been designed to look disgusting, where realistic and imaginary images coexist, by using a half-man, half-machine image or vividly describing detestable animal skin, There have also been disgusting features in the make-up, which are so extremely weird that we can created by adding vinyl or pieces of textiles like Patch of the 17th century. Second, the satanic character of the fashion seems to be meant to keep in harmony with evil image such as Dracula, witch, skeleton or warrior of the evil, in order to charge the unnatural, inhuman and fin-de-siecle Phenomenon and find out what It really means for the inner world of men. And the demonic expressions of the make-up chiefly use white or black color or blue color of low saturation or low lightness, and part of facial features is exaggerated or shortchanged. Third, the decadent characteristics are expressed in the fashion by attaching sensational ornament to the human bode or using sexual exposure. So they give unnatural, unsound and extremely erotic impressions. The decadent features in the make-up are generated by excessively using a gay red color or sensational, exciting colors. Fourth, the exoticism of the fashion is largely affected by China's Chipaoh, Japan's Kimono or primitive motives from Africa, as there are increasing interests in Asia. And that of the make-up leans toward the East, as Kabuki make-up from Japan, Kyongkeuk make-up from China or the primitive features from Africa are employed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.