• 조형예술학연구
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• 제2권
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• pp.90-127
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• 2000

The Paper aims to survey and analyze the meaning 'Absence of body' from clothes as non-verbal communication medium. Two types of absence of body from clothes are clothes as object because of removing body, and flattened colthes to deny the body form. In results of analysis, 1)the confrontation of male/female was represented by positive/negative, active/passive, present/absent. 2) male/female means social/private, body/clothing, relevant/irrelevant, subjective/additive. 3) one/numbers, simple/various, limited/free present the various way of waering. 4) tradition/contemporary is expressed by materials 5) enlarged clothes expresses the cynical attitude about body 6) inside/outside , one dress/layered dress suggest new concept to wear against traditional way of wearing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.747-764
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• 1995

The purpose of the present study were 1) to identify the dimensional structure of impression formed of a female figure, 2) to analyze effects of several elements of apparel design on impression formation of the figure in suit. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 60 drawings made by identical manipulations of 3 indepndent variables in 3 clothing styles(suit, dress and pants with blouse). The independent variables were (1) five clothing colors (red, blue, yellow, white and black), (2) two lengths(short/long) of suit skirt, dress, and pants (3) two types of blouse and dress collars (shirt collar/ribbon collar). The 7-point semantic differential response scale to measure the dependent variables (formed impressions of the female figure) was composed of 37 bipolar adjectives. Further- more, two open-ended questions were used for interpretation of the reponses. The study proceeded in three independent experimental part was based on the 3 clothing styles using a 5(color)$\times$2(length)$\times$2(collar) factorial design. Subject were 200 female undergraduate students reandomly assigned to one of 20 combinations in each part of the experiment. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, 3-way ANOVA and Multiple Classification Analysis. Five factors emerged to account for the dimensional structure of impression of the female figure in specific attire. These factors included three basic dimensions of impression identified as potency, activity and evaluation, confirming the results of previous studies. Result from open-ended questionaire supported the theoretical perspective of Schneider, Hastorf and Ellsworth on the procedure of impression formation.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.15-30
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• 2001

The purpose 7f this study is to investigate the change of the ideal beauty of human bodies and the related clothing form designs from the ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period in the aspect of optical illusions effects to achieve the ideal beauty so that we can accumulate the knowledges for the modern clothing form design and the related optical illusion effects. The scope of this study is limited to the female body forms and female dress forms. The analysis on the optical illusions in the dress forms of the various period relied on the literatures and some representative photographs and figures. The important results are as follows : 1. In the body Priority type designs of Egypt, Greece and Rome, the natural Beauty of human bodies was represented by H type silhouett, the smooth and transparent drapery materials were used with radiant line pleats resulting in slant optical illusions. 2. In the clothing priority type designs of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Romantic Period, manteau, cotehardie, hennin and poulain were used to emphasize long arms and legs, high waists, belly curves and large heads resulting in optical illusions of vertical emphasize. Also long train, farthingale and panier were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in the optical illusions of Titchener alld Lipps. Large and complex patterns showed the optical illusions of Aubert. 3. In the clothing priority/body concealment type of Byzantine period, thick materials with precious gems and voluminous silhouettes were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in optical illusions of materials.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• 복식
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• 제15권
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• pp.177-194
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• 1990

Koh(袴) was a type of dress worn on the lower part of the body which was commonly used in the Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of nomadism or hunting. The origin of the Koh which appeared in the area would be found from the trousers of the Huns who influenced in the Northeast Asia, and became in the part of the Scythian culture. The Scythians are the nomadizing race inhabited in the Northern Caucasas on the wast of the Black Sea and influenced on the inland Eurasian steppe as the first typical horse-riding race. The objectives of Koh which had been worn in the Scythian, Mongolia, Korea as well as Japan as a part of Dongho dress and ornaments and to contemplate the transmission process by cultural exchange among different races for the period from 4th century to 7th century. 1. The Origination of the Koh The Koh was originated by the environmental factor to protect the cold in the North but also from the heat in the South, and was changed and developed as gradually satisfying to the needs of the times. In the Northeast Asia the Koh was in the class of the Northern Chinese garment, and was used widely by the horse riding Scythians who moved widely from the Eurasian inland to Japan. The oldest original which could reflect the type of the Northern clothes was a pair of trousers discovered in the Huns remains of Noin Ula. This showed the exact form of hunting clothes and had a similar form with the Korean female tro-users. Since the same form of trousers drawn on the wall painting of which was excavated 4-5th century ancient Koguryo(高句麗) tomb was the same form the trousers of Noin Ula seemed to be the original form of Koh in the Northeast Asia. 2. The Chinese Trousers It was the time of the King Mooryung(武靈王) in the Cho(趙) Dynasty B.C. 3th century that the trousers used regularly in China. However, the Koh had been used as undergarment which functioned for the protection of the cold not the horseriding garment. The trousers seemed to be not very obviously shown off since the Poh (袍) was long, but mainly used by the people from lower class. As people learned the adapted the trousers. It was essential for the times of war and quarrel. The king himself started wearing the Koh. The Chinese trousers were influenced by the Huns, the Northern clothes of the Scythian culture, and similar to the Korean clothes. 3. The Korean Trousers Korean was a race bared from the Eastern foreign group. It was obvious that the clothes was Baji-Jeogori(바지 저고리), the garment of the Northern people. This had the same form of the Scythian dress and ornaments which was excavated from the Mongolian Noin Ula. The Scythian dress and ornaments were influenced from the Ancient West Asia Empire and transmitted to the Northeast Koguryu by the horseriding Scythian. The trousers were kept in the traditional style by the common people in Korea were transmitted to Japan which were for behind in cultural aspect, as well as got used to the Chinese as the efficient clothes though active cultural exchange. 4. The Japanese Trousers The ancient Japanese clothes were influenced by the Southern factor but not the form of the Koh. As the Korean people group was moving towards Japan and conquer the Japanese in the 4-5th century, however, North Altaic culture was formed and at the same time the clothes were also developed. The most influenced clothes at this time were those of Baekge(百濟) and the trousers form called Euigon became the main form. Because of the climatic regional factor, it was tied not at the ankle but under the knee. From the view the ancient Japanese clothes disappeard about that time, it could be due to the conquest of the culturally superior race but not the transmission of the culture. In the latest 7th century both the Chinese and Japanese dress forms were present, but the Dongho(東胡) dress and its ornament from Korea was still the basic of the Japanese dress form.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.313-336
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• 1997

Nineteen stimulus photograghs varied in hue and color scheme of one clothing style of Korean dress worn by a female were used to investigate the effect of color color scheme and structure on impression formation for Korean dress. Subjects were 77 male and 86 female undergraduate and graduate students. The stimuli c9onsisted of two sets(cool and warm) of four similar color schemes two sets (cool and warm in Chima color) of five contrasting color schemes and one extra stimulus triad 3 hue base. Structures were de-fined by color schemes of Kit.Korum toward the color schemes of Jokori and Chima. Stimu-lus photogragh selected from Korean dress fashion magazines was managed and varied in hues and color schemes to Kit Korum Jokori and Chima according to Korean Standard Color through scanning and Adobe photoshop 3.0 program and then pictured through slide printer(HR-6000). Each subject assessed 19 stimulus color photographs with incorporated 7 point semantic differential response scale. The data were analyzed by frequency mean factor analysis t-test ANOVA and Scheffe test. Results indicate impression ofrmations are af-fected by clothing cues. 1) Four factors emerged to account for dimensional structure of impressions of female features on Korean dress. These four factors were titled as(1) preference.evaluation (2) individuality.attention (3) youth and (4) friendshio. The preference.evaluation factor was the largest including eleven adjectives and accounting for 29.62% of the variances. 2) Almost every clothing cue(color, color scheme, structure) had some effects on im-pressions formed But the color of Chima did not form the effects on impression of prefer-ence.evaluation factor. The effect of related color scheme was the most influential clothing cue on impressions of preference.evalation factor and friendship factor whereas the ef-fect of contrasting color scheme was the most influential clothing cue on impressions of indi-viduality.attention factor and youth factor. The effect of cool color of Chima was the most influential clothing cue on impression of indi-viduality.attention factor whereas the effect of warm color of Chima was the most influen-tial clothing cue on impressions of youth factor and friendship factor. The effect of Jokori/Chima.Kit.Korum structure was the most influential clothing cue on impressions of pref-erence.evaluation factor and youth factor whereas the effect of Kit.Korum/Jokori.Chima structure was the most influential clothing cue on impressions of individuality.attention factor and friendship factor. 3) The interaction effects were appeared among clothing cues. Significant interaction effects between color schemes(similar and contrasting) and colors of Chima(cool and warm were appeared on impressions of prefer-ence.evaluation factor imdividuality.atten-tion factor and friendship factor, Significant interaction effects between color schemes (similar and contrasting) and structures (Jokori.Chima.Kit.Korum; Jokori.Kit.Koru-m/Chima;Jokori/Chima.Kit.Korum;Kit.Korum/Jokori.Chima) were appeared on impressions of preference.evaluation factor youth factor and friendship factor. Signifi-cant interaction effects between colors(cool and warm) and structures were appeared on impressions of individuality.attention factor youth factor and friendship factor. Sighifi-cant interaction effects between colors(cool and warm) and structures were appeared on impressions of individuality.attention factor youth factor and friendship factor. Significant interaction effects among clothing cues(color color schemes and structures) were appeared on all impression factors. The friendship factor was the most friquently affected impression factor by interaction effects among clothing cues. In summary the clothing was used as nonverbal cues in the effect on impression for-mation of female dressed in Korean dress. it concluded that color schemes worked as cen-tral traits and colors of Chima and structures worked as peripheral traits in the formation of impression of the female clothed in Korean dress. hence organizing our impressions with respect to the parts of the Korean dress in re-lation to the whole holistic perceptual pro-cess Gestalt approach was used and supported.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권11호
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• pp.1586-1597
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• 2007

This study is an attempt to examine fashion elements appearing in the cover-page design of fashion magazines published in Korea and aims to find Korea#s own fashion identity in fashion styling and designing of those fashion magazines. In order to do so, the study reviewed the related literature and analyzed the issues of Vogue and Harper#s Bazaar magazines published between 2004 and 2006. The results of the study can be summarized as follows: In case of fashion photographs, the largest number of 72 sampled cover-model photographs is in approximately three-quarter cut size. For the items, most take the form of one-piece dress and feature the use of a variety of accessories. In case of dresses, most are the creations of foreign designers and famous fashion models or celebrities show up, mostly alone, as features on the cover pages. Because of the nature of fashion magazines, their primary emphasis is put on the dress among other things, but on the other hand some of those magazines have differential cover pages where the model#s face is highlighted with the look of makeup or a famous female actress stands out. However, the fashion in designing the cover pages of magazines is, rather than to show the dress itself, to create a new combination of different elements as total fashion or convey an image based on such a fashion style.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2021

This study aims to identify the perception of New-Hanbok one-piece dresses that female consumers have purchased and to analyze the design preference based on design types and brands. Analysis was conducted on New-Hanbok brand websites, and additional research was carried out through a survey of 402 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 36 questions, which were divided into categories including pattern, color, material, and recognition of the one-piece dress. The research results are as follows. First, the preferred design form of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress was long length, medium fit, princess line, round git, rectangular git, regular width git, V neckline, regular width dongjeong, front closing with a wide overlap of the chest are a, narrow goreum, a skirt part with moderate crease spacing and number of pleats, A-line skirt silhouette, long and narrow sleeves, diagonal shoulder line, and a cuff at the end of each sleeve. Second, the preferred colors of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress were bright, neutral, or light and were predominately monochromatic Third, the preferred fabric conveyed a contemporary atmosphere through its print pattern. The most favored fabric material was cotton. Through this study, more systematic design development research should be carried out focusing on the current situation and identifying problems, thereby improving traditional culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.913-927
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• 2017

This study is based on the results of the $7^{th}$ Korea Human Size Survey (Size Korea). The standard body shapes of Korean women between 25 and 34 years old were analyzed and used to develop a prototype princess line for wedding dresses. or this purpose I conducted a literature review and a survey of the actual situation of domestic ligaments. In order to select suitable ligaments for the standard body type of 25~34 year-old Korean women, I collected the most representative ligaments from around the world: Stock man from France, Superior from the USA, KIIYA from Japan, and Pig and Nonno from Korea. They were then compared and analyzed. In the form of a formal wedding dress, a prototype princess line was developed by a draping technique in order to finely implement the human body fitting. To develop the prototype of the princess line, I made test garments with muslin. 25 to 34 years old Korean female standard body type Three human subjects close to the average measurement value were selected as subjects. An exterior appearance evaluation questionnaire was created with 28 questions focusing on the main parts of the prototype princess line. The clothes were evaluated three times. In this study, aesthetic and functional elements were considered for the development of princess line prototypes for wedding dresses. In addition, the amount of spare area was given differently. This study is significant in the achievement of a dress line closest that closely matches the human body line of the standard Korean female body type.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.73-80
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• 2010

This research examined the design characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet, a female fashion designer who left an enormous legacy and made a great contribution to the high added-value fashion industry. Her techniques can be dividing in to three types: the bias cutting, the design by geometrical methods, and the classical style of ancient Greek clothing. This research also intended to study the design cases in which Vionnet's drapery images are applied to modern fashion, mainly the haute couture works that have appeared at Dior collections since 2000. In terms of the characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet's design, First, she produced the best achievement in dress and ornament history by developing a new technique called bias cutting. Second, her work was groundbreaking because it changed the previously planar approach to the female body into a solid conception by cutting and connecting geometrical pieces in the form of quadrangle, triangle, and a quarter-circle. As a result, her works depicted feminine beauty to the fullest extent through the combination of the human body, excellent materials, and the most sophisticated technology and personal skill. Third, her approach was a classical style tinged with the Greek costume image. With this style, which was born by reinterpreting the key tone of the Greek epoch in a modern way, and transcending and even changing tradition, she created a form of beauty that only she could.