• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.74-87
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• 2017

The aim of this study was to analyze the features of bodice patterns modeled using a dress form that represents Korean female fashion models' body features. A controlled experiment was carried out using an existing dress form that has been frequently used in South Korea. The purpose of the study was to suggest notable findings derived from understanding the development of bodice patterns for Korean female fashion models. The comparison of features of bodice patterns from the developed and existing dress forms was carried out with consideration of the upper body features of the developed dress form, such as body angles and body cross-sectional shapes. The following results were derived from the investigations. (1) The angles of the upper and lower breast cups of the developed dress form differed to those of the existing dress form, showing a 5.0cm smaller front shoulder dart and a 3.5 larger ㎝ ㎝ front waist dart within the bodice patterns. (2) The body angle features of the developed dress form included a straighter neck and shoulder blade and more concave center back than the existing dress form, with a 2.0 reduced back neck height and a 4.8 larger back waist dart for ㎝ ㎝ the bodice back panel. The more realistic body angles of the developed dress form anticipate the improvement of garment pattern-making. (3) The altered shoulder angles resulted in an increased size of the back shoulder dart and a decreased size of the front shoulder height within the bodice patterns. (4) The increased rate of curvature of cross-sectional shapes on the bust and waist circumferences of the developed dress form resulted in an increase in the sizes of the front and back waist darts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.157-175
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• 2015

The study was aimed to develop a torso-type dress form representing body features of the female fashion models in Korea. To fulfill this purpose, 5 female fashion models aged between 20 and 26 having the average body measurements of professional fashion models in Korea were selected and their 3-D whole body scanned data were analysed. The 3-D whole body scanning method enabled to generate a virtual female fashion model within the CAD system by measuring the subjects' body shapes and sizes. In addition, the virtual model's body data led the development of a standard female fashion model dress form for the efficient fashion show preparation. In order to manufacture the real dress form for female fashion models, 3-D printing technology was adopted. The consequent results are as follows: (1) the body measurements (unit: cm) of the developed dress form were: biacromion length, 36.0, bust point to bust point, 16.6, front/back interscye lengths, 32.0/33.0, neck point to breast point, 26.0, neck point to breast point to waist line, 41.5, waist front/back lengths, 34.5/38.5, waist to hip length, 24.0, bust circumference, 85.0, underbust circumference, 75.0, waist circumference, 65.0, hip circumference, 92.0. (2) the body measurements differences between the developed and existing dress forms were highlighted with the body measurements of neck point to breast point and waist to hip length. (3) the body shape features of the developed dress form showed that bust, shoulder blade, shoulder slope, abdomen and back waist line to hip line parts were more realistically manufactured.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.4 s.44
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• pp.357-369
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.984-994
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• 1995

The dimensional structure of impression formed of a female figure in specific attire was identified and significant influence of skirt length and suit color on impression formed of figures in suits were researched in the part I of this study. In part ll, the effect of identical elements of apparel design on impression formation of a female figure in dress and pants- blouse were studied. The experimental matirals consisted of two sets of stimuli and 7 point semantic differential response scale developed in part 1. Each set of stimuli was composed of 20 drawings representing female figures in each attire. Three independent variables, which were the length of bottom, color of dress or pants and collar type of blouse, were manipulated in each stimulus. The experiment was arranged by 3 factorial design, and the data were analyzed by 3-way ANOVA and by Multiple Classification Analysis. To summarize, in impression formation of figure in dress, the most dominant design element was identified as bottom length and the second most dominant one was color of dress. In contrast, in perception of figure in pants-blouse, the most important design element was color of pants and secondly important one was bottom length. The collar type of top didn't have critical effect on impression formation of figures in both type of attire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.298-310
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was 1) to analize the female figures with potbelly in the nude of the 15th-l6th century, 2) to find out the historic event which made these figures appeared, and 3) to clarify the influence these figures on dress. The results were as follows: 1) There was a sudden decrease in population by the Black Death in the Middle of the fourth century, so supplement of labor was urgent demand at that imp. Childbirth was the only way of supplement of manpower. 2) Therefore, the figure of pregnant woman was regarded as the female figure ideal. The artists depicted this figure ideal in nude. 3) This female figure ideal changed the form of dress. Pillow, pad, and special undergarments were used to make potbelly.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.451-459
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• 2022

This study aimed to develop a a custom-made dress form for draping using a live model's 3D body scan obtained from an entry-level 3D handheld scanners, 3D modeling software and 3D printing technology. A female subject was recruited whose body size fell under the normal (N) body shape criteria suggested by KS K 0051. First, the handheld scanner reduced the length of the legs in scanning, but most of the scanning operations between the neck and crotch levels were conducted accurately. Therefore, this study was designed to develop a torso dress form. The full body 3D scan was edited into a torso shape using ZBrush® software. Using Rhinoceros^® and Materialise's Magics software, a 3D body scan was modeled so that the user could fit two types of mannequin stands (one with a neck fixation from above and one with an insert from below) to the dress form. The body scan was divided into 9 pieces to fit the printable size of the Stratasys 3D printer Fortus 250mc, and the cross-sectional distance from the center to the periphery was downsized by 2 mm. After outputting the dress form scan file with a 3D printer, the dress form was manufactured by the first covering it with a 4 oz nonwoven pad and the second covering with a single jersey material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.378-385
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• 2006

To release fashion trends in an efficient way, many of the apparel business and fashion educational institutes in land adopt fashion shows employing fashion models. Modeling rather than flat pattern making realizes the majority of the complicated design works for the fashion shows. However, for the different measurements between the dress form and the real human model, problems often occur during the modeling and fitting processes. Researches on the standard dress form development representing professional fashion models' features are therefore in urgent need to enable the related apparel business and fashion institutes to make appropriate use of the dress form in their jobs. The study has been conducted as a preliminary study using a questionnaire method ultimately to develop the female dress form. A questionnaire in the research aimed at an investigation into the actual conditions of and satisfaction with the usage and the body measurements of existed dress forms. Approximately 30 fashion-related educational institutes and 10 apparel companies responded to the survey. Data derived from the survey was analyzed using SPSS version 10.1, the statistics tool. The results throughout the research were discussed in terms of largely three categories that are; (1) the general conditions of the usage of the dress form to prepare fashion shows: e.g. the frequency of holding the fashion show in an annual term, the proportion of professional and amateur models employed for the fashion show, the methods to construct garments, types and number of dress forms utilized and etc.; (2) factors considered to purchase the dress form e.g. its functionality, shapes, sizes, duration, price, A/S condition and etc.; and(3) satisfaction with the similarity between the dress form and the human body in the relation to the body measurements. Measurements in length wise, front and back waist lengths, neck to bust point on the dress forms were apparently differed from the ones of the actual body. In particular, differed torso length measurements cause the problem to have to alter the whole silhouette, consequently, the resultant patterns as well. In girth measurements, in order of bust and waist girths, the satisfaction was low.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

The ceremonies were roughly categorized into four： coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Among them, the funeral was a representative example to show ancestral worship. As it symbolizes the worship to ancestors, its procedure was complicated and formalized. It was undoubtedly certain that formalized mourning dresses and complicated table setting for sacrificial services to ancestors were burdens. Although what was symbolized by mourning dresses was different depending on the wearers purposes, it was thought that no clothing had such unusual symbolism as mourning dress. When the composition of mourning dress was examined, it was shown that Taoism, family relation of Confucianism or symbolic clothing system of Shamanism were combined. Mourning dress first represented the Confucian idea of ancestral worship. For the composition of clothing in which a shamanistic element was inherent, forms of birds were used to guide the dead soul to the other world. In cutting out mourning dress, opposite concepts of Yin and Yang, and closure and openness were used to show a harmony between heaven and the earth. Male and female were represented through sewing techniques. The period of observing the mourning period depended on the degree of kinship. The degree to which the clothing was loose indicated the degree of sadness and kinship. Load blocks and tear pads indicated the degree of sadness. In considering the above indicators, family relation and filial piety to ancestors had a great effect on the form and details of mourning dress. Shamanistic elements as well as Confucian ones were inherent in mourning dress, which resulted in the combination of Taoism and Confucianism.