• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.363-372
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• 2007

T-shirt has changed into advanced and stylish outwear by new paradigm, taste of consumer, awareness of recycling, spread of subculture, DIY culture, refusal of standardization and pursuit of high quality goods, etc. The purpose of this study was to analyze aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs that changed into diverse designs in world fashion college since 2000. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion site. Aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs were expressed in deconstruction, mixture, integration and imitation. And each of external expressions and internal meanings was as follows: First, deconstruction was expressed in partial cutwork and three dimensional texture by sewing and construction drape. It means breaking the conventional structure and break-ing the boundary of t-shirt and another item and possibility of multi-vocal analysis. Second, mixture was expressed in collage of diverse ornaments, diverse fabrics and diverse patterns. It means exceeding the limit of material, elaboratenes and high quality of handwork, reflection of self-identity, brand image, fashion trend, consumer's psychology and mind of experimentation and couture. Third, integration was expressed in extension of length, width, use and style. It means unification of functions, deconstruction of items and extension of meanings and images. Forth, imitation was expressed in stain of dye, irregular and ripped sign, cut out, rough warp, drawing and washing, etc. It means subculture, rarity value, monopolization, diversity, familiarity, yearning and uniqueness.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.327-338
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• 2001

The purpose of this thesis is to study the aspects of sex identity in the contemporary mens fashion expressed through sexual image and taste in the half of twentieth century. The aspects of sex identity expression in the contemporary mens fashion can be classified by image, that is, homosexual, heroic, bisexual, and fetish. 1. The homosexual image has shown the tendency to emphasize the masculinity since 1950.60s. It can be found in \"Cowboys costume\" which is typical of American traditional fashion, and jeans and underwear fashion expressed by muscular men has homosexual characteristics which contain narcissism. 2. Based on mens traditional gender role, the heroic image emphasizes mens physical characteristics and expresses tough and offensive masculine beauty in mens suit which is free from the authority and formality. 3. The bisexual image denied the division of gender role by costume and destroyed the traditional sex model by resolutely applying womens costume such as skirts to mens fashion. 4. The fetish image is similar to bisexual image in that they wear womens costume, but different in that it expresses sexual desire or fantasy. It is expressed through brilliant color, leather and metal ornaments, and sensual element of women which emphasizes \"body\". This shows the sex identity of contemporary men who want more sensible and free life.sible and free life.

• 복식
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• 제56권6호
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• pp.96-113
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• 2006

Romanticism factors in fashion since the 1990s is more about feminine softness and grace, and suggests the image of a fantastic cute and lovable girl with dreams. This study examined romanticism in literature focusing on the 19th century, which is considered the time of romanticism, and examined romanticism in men's fashion since the 1990s based on the newly found characteristics of romanticism. Romanticism in men's fashion since the 1990s can be divided into three categories of individual sensitivity pursuing romanticism, romanticism with a desire to aspire, and resistance inclined romanticism. First, individual sensitivity pursuing romanticism is the type that places importance on expression of emotions based on the values on individuals, and was expressed as either romanticism with sexual charm or as romanticism with an extremely feminine taste. Second, romanticism with a desire to aspire was the most prominent romanticism fashion type in men's fashion since the 1990s and it can be divided into four categories of aspiration of nature and time, aspiration of the past and romanticism, aspiration of childhood and aspiration of new exotic cultures. Third, resistance inclined romanticism was expressed as romanticism that is inclined to resist against materialism and romanticism that resists against youth culture.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2018

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.135-144
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• 2008

The reason that we are familiar with fashion from the 1950s is because of the work such as New Look done by a french fashion designer, Christian Dior who had taken on an almost mythical significance by his name. Moreover, in the sense of popularity, the appearance of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, two typical Hollywood actresses who each has directly-opposed image, is the symbol of youthful America of the 1950s and represents the remarkable start of the American fashion. Still, these days designers and mass medias recall the fashion from the 50s remaking and parodying it to suit public's taste. Being due to the World War II, Europe suffered not only the loss of its national tradition and reputation but also got a fatal blow politically and economically. On the other hand, the United States of America occupied a primary position in the world and outstandingly became the most powerful country. The American fashion of the 1950s represents youth and newness and rejects outdated and outmoded style. In this period, appears the indication which announces previously the youth culture. Poodle skirt is the fashion item that acquired popularity among young american women and girls in the late 1950s. In effect, it is the fashion as American as apple pie. A costly A-line skirt had been transformed into a cheap felt skirt. Instead of a real poodle dog which was carried by French women like an accessory, they embroidered a poodle dog on the lower edge of their skirt. As deriding the snobbish gait, they swayed themselves frantically to the rhythm of Rock n' Roll which swept those days. This was an attitude of young Americans against the existing trend of Europe. Poodle skirt showed the free spirit and intention of young people unbound to custom and established vogue. In addition, in the aspect of comprising the American spirit of independent, pioneer, and subjective American people, it goes beyond the bounds of common concept of fad. Poodle skirt is an unique symbol of the 1950s' American fashion which prognosticates the advent of the United States and the success in modern fashion world which was changing after 1950s.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.68-77
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• 2005

In contemporary advertising market, one of main trends is to speak surrealistic visual language which provides 'enjoyable spectacles'. Specially, in the beginning of 21st century, there discovered more and more exhibitions and discourses about surrealism reinterpreted from the viewpoint of postmodernism. Surrealism as a creative style of expression based upon free association, has been a great inspiration for fashion ads for commercial communication as well as fashion design since its origin. However, there has been ignored the idea of analyzing surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads in spite of their flood. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to grasp its cultural meaning through analyzing aesthetic characteristics of surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads. It will provide a better understanding of surrealistic image in fashion ads reflecting popular taste and preference directly as popular visual culture, focusing on post modern context. A case study of surrealistic fashion ads limits to TV or print commercials and digital ads as image ads stimulating visual expressions. The Results can be summarized as follows. Surrealism is an avant garde style which deconstructs the established meaning system as well as the existing formalistic order and then put them together in the frame of 'dream' and 'unconsciousness'. Defamiliarization questioning the whole edifice of representation can be adapted to. By means of paradox and metaphor, unfamiliar new visual world can be represented. The plastic characteristics of surrealistic image in fashion ads are founded as surrealistic styling of time and space, distortion of object by methods of automatism, depaysement, parody and trompe-l'oeil which bring about the deconstruction of gestalt. Aesthetic values of surrealistic fashion ads appear as dualistic representation, allegoric symbolism, fantastic romanticism. Ultimately they lead to marvelous. mysterious, humorous visual effects. Foster reinterpreted these effects of surrealism from Freud's 'Uncanny Concept'. 'Uncanny' means the phenomenon recurring to familiar being defamiliarized by repression. Surrealistic fashion ads strengthen this shocking effect more and more dramatically in company with our post modern needs for fantastic adventure and thrilling spectacle. It can be thought that surrealistic fashion ads reflects uncanny as an alternative which can relieve us of our stress and anxiety and which realize our potential desire in contemporary post industrial stage.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.87-99
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• 1991

In order to elucidate whether capsaicin applied topically acts as a pain-producing subastance or as a tastant, neuronal activities of the chorda tympani nerve(CN), lingual nerve(LN), solitary tract nucleus(STN), and trigeminal nucleus(TGN) were recorded while thermal and taste stimuli, and capsaicin were being applied topically, and algesics intra-arterially to the tongue of cats anesthetized with ${\alpha}-chloralsoe$. In addition, the STN neurons were examined after wheat germ agglutinin-horseradish peroxidase(WGA-HRP) was applied to the CN. The CN fibers responded to taste and thermal stimuli, algesics, and capsaicin. Responses to capsaicin were significantly correlated with those to taste and thermal stimuli. The LN fibers mainly responded to mechanical and thermal stimuli, algesics, and capsaicin. Responses to capsaicin were significantly correlated with those to algesics. The STN neurons responded to taste and thermal stiumli, algesics, and capsaicin. Responses to capsaicin were significantly correlated with those to taste and thermal stiumli in somewhat different fashion from those of the CN fibers. The TGN neurons mainly responded to mechanical stimuli, algesics, and capsaicin. Correlations between responses to capsaicin and any others were not significant. After WGA-HRP was applied to the CN, the STN neurons which receive input from the CN were identified largely in the medio-ventral portion to the solitary tract. These results suggest that capsaicin produce taste as well as pain sensation. Sensory information evoked by capsaicin can be conveyed to the STN, especially medio-ventral portion, via the CN as gustatory information on the one hand, and to the STN or TGN via the LN as noxious information on the other. In addiation, the noxious information may be conveyed to the STN via the CN.

• International Journal of Fuzzy Logic and Intelligent Systems
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.270-275
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• 2008

Under ubiquitous environment, recommendation system is using the collaborative filtering methods by quantifying context information, but insufficient context information can cause inaccurate recommendation result. In order to solve such problems, the researcher used context information and user's profile. But service history information in users' profiles can have the problems of being influenced by change of the user's taste or fashion as time passes by. In addition, context information and user's profile can't be properly inter-locked according to situation, which can cause inaccurate predictability. In this paper, in case a user's taste or fashion is changed as time passes by, the researcher didn't apply bundled-up value to the user's profile but applied different weight according to change of time. And the researcher could solve the problem that context information and a user's profile can't be properly inter-locked according to situation by applying different weight to the result gained by means of collaborative filtering and then by unifying it. In such ways, the researcher could improve predictability.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권9_10호
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• pp.1060-1071
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• 2003

This study was intended to identify customer's response to CRM of fashion business.488 questionnaires were distributed to male and female respondents aged 16 to 55, and then analyzed by descriptive statistics, oneway-ANOVA, chi-square test, and factor analysis. As a result of customer information management, respondents evaluated taste, interest and demographic informations as most valuable. But they did not value personal and credit information. For CRM concept, 4 factors were determined: continuous care and suggestion, particular service to important customer, customer management program development, and customer convenience consideration. For CRM activity, 3 factors were determined: customization, information offering, and programmed service strategies. Respondents were having positive attitude toward CRM concept and activity of fashion business. Among customer loyalty programs, they affected by immediate and direct programs most. The preference of customer contact methods was differentiated by sex and age groups. Males and teenagers preferred e-mail, and females preferred catalog and telephone connection.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.125-140
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is confirming the design characteristics and brand strategies of Ralph Lauren's products through the advertising pictures on internet website. Methods of this study are the analysis of his brand growth process, concept strategy and designs by web promotion sites. Also this study defined his brand character and fashion mind. The Results are as follows. 1) Ralph Lauren's concept strategies are 1. Convert british type into American style 2. Presentation an American life style 3. Marketing strategy using life style and IT business. 2) Ralph Lauren's designs characters are 1. Rich and simple style by preppy look 2. Traditional wear of noble taste 3. Western style of American reclamation period 4. Using of comfortable material 5. Unique colors which are simbolic. Today, his classic and preppy designs all draw upon an image of old word wealth and luxury and he pioneered the concept of clothes as part of a lifestyle environment.