• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.291-306
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• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.65-78
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• 2011

Social media which support to share information and communicate between online users have recently won great popularity. Of the various social services blogs have played an active role as a community in sharing delivering and exchanging information among individual users who have share similar opinions hobbies and preferences. Based on this cultural phenomenon some companies often take advantage of blogs as a marketing tool to strengthen their public relations or deliver particular information to their costumer. This study is designed to classify fashion-related blogs and define the characteristics of each type expecting significant influences on future studies on this topic. We selected 50 fashion-related blogs as subjects including 25 Korean blogs and the same number of international blogs, defined their characteristics and classified them into four different types. As the result we found that there are apparent differences between the four types of blogs: "Individual taste" blogs which noticeably reflect bloggers' own preference "Trend leader" blogs in which the bloggers intend to be trend leaders beyond expressing their preference "Fashion media" blogs which plays a significant role as a magazine by providing various information concerning fashion for costumers and "Sales promotion" blogs which are used as promotional materials to attract customers by providing product reviews or advertisements.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.95-106
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• 2012

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (July 28, 1929 - May 19, 1994) was served as First Lady of the United States in the early 1960s. Her fashion styles are analyzed into the elements of designs, and the features of Jackie look are assorted. A variety of sources about women's suits for the 21st century are suggested in the research. Jackie's taste in fashion, her fashion image are searched. In addition, after Jackie, other nine fashionable First Ladies' evening dresses are compared to Jackie's dresses so as to see if there are similarities between their styles. Based on this data, the typical First Lady's look is classifiable. The purpose of this study is to furnish the industry with basic information which helps create high value fashion design. Most of Jackie's evening dresses had the straight - sheath silhouettes, and the round or bateau necklines without collars. Pale tones like white predominated in her dresses, and patternless colorful silk, silky and bright texture of cloth was used for the dresses. Elegance and classic represented her image. Design features of Jackie look are the straight silhouette, the simple line excluded adornments, and the fine quality of cloth. There has been little change in other nine First Ladies' evening dresses since Jackie. They weren't influenced by the vogue at that time, but they kept the style the way Jackie did. Jackie style is the beginning of the typical first lady look, that is.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2005

This study is purposed to provide new idea for developing high value added fashion goods by studying relief effects of fashion design. Based on prior researches, various ways to give relief effects were searched and then modern fashion design cases were looked for which were referred to fashion-related magazines and collection-related internet sites since the late 1990s. The ways for relief effects are weaving, industrial finishing, sewing technique. Weaving techniques are about fancy yarns, variation of weaving structure, pile weave. Industrial finishing techniques which can make relief effects are embossing, heat-setting, shearing, pliss, burn out, flocking. Sewing techniques are quilting, pleats, embroidery, slash, attachment in accordance with the way to produce relief effects. The forms of relief effects are tactile pattern that cannot be seen in the distance, subtle relief pattern which is more three-dimensional than tactile pattern, rhythmical relief pattern, sculptural pattern, and deep-volumed pattern. The present research can provide practical data for design by studying techniques of relief effects and collecting and arranging design cases that have been sporadically carried out. The study on relief and unique surface effects can be a way to effectively stimulate and express emotions of modern people with various taste and individuality.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.369-392
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• 1998

In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.453-464
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• 2003

This study is to analyze that the pluralism is the main aspect of the modem fashion which examines the definition and the character of the pluralism. This will also consider the pluralism that appeared on the modern fashion which is based on them. The main point of pluralism is that the world is necessarily aware of plural and difference. Also many values which is focused on the previous generation, for instance disorganize of westernism, androcentrictrism, christianism and powerful nationalism, what is called unfamiliar, heterogeneous, the others and the circumference things. As these were rehabilitated, morality, ethics, religion or politics were all became possible to choose for one's taste. The pluralism expressed in modern fashion can be divided as collapse of genre, grafting the lower and higher orders cultivation, variety way of approaching in time, internationalism. The result for the consideration is that the pluralism has candid attitude for everything so that in the modern fashion is importing variety range of artistic definition. Namely, it is not only containing previous pure art, elegance art and element of artistic sublime beauty, but also has aesthetics of ugliness, deconstructive art and anti-fashion so that the definition of the art is getting vagueness and diverse.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.44-55
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• 2013

The main objectives of this study were to empirically examine the relationship between the preference of fashion styles of male college students and their individual taste in other areas including music styles and recreation types. Life style and values were also examined for their relationship with the fashion style preferences. Survey questionnaires were distributed to male college students in Seoul, Incheon and Gyeonggi-do during May and June of 2011, and a total of 256 responses were used in the final analysis. The results showed that there were three segments according to the fashion styles - 'modern-dandy', 'resistance style', 'no-individuality' groups - and there were significant differences between groups in terms of their preferred music styles and choice of recreational activities. Modern-dandy group preferred R&B, dance music and ballad, while resistance style group preferred hiphop, dance and reggae music. No-individuality group did not show any preference for a particular type of music. Both modern-dandy and resistance style groups liked sports, while resistance style group showed the lowest preference for hobby and culture. There were also significant differences in lifestyles and values according to the fashion styles of the three groups.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.32-50
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• 2011

This study is designed to analyze the effects of demographic factors on children's wear brand preference and their reasons, and brand evaluations. A total of 355 usable data was collected from housewives in three metropolitan cities (Seoul, Daejeon, and Sungnam) in Korea. An ANOVA and crossing analysis were used to determine the strength(percentage) among several dependent variables. Also, regression analysis was used to examine the effects of demographic factors on each factor and component related to fashion brand evaluation. Overall, ANOVA and crossing analysis results showed that the visual attributions (variables) of clothing marked significantly higher scores than others (functional attributions). This result is noteworthy because it is opposite of common stereotypes and prejudices that selectors who first recognize visual information (aesthetic attributions) as a clothing buying criteria should be unsatisfied with them after wearing. Therefore, this research suggests that the chief reason in determining the outcome of success or failure in fashion industry depends on their trend productions with fashion image creation by reflecting the exclusive trends based on consumer's taste and wants.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.705-715
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• 2020

The domestic fashion industry of the middle and late 20th century emphasized the importance of a standardized design process; however, the values of differentiated brand individuality have become increasingly important with the qualitative·quantitative growth of designer brands. Therefore, paying attention to designer individuality (or a differentiated element of a designer brand growing up in the domestic fashion industry) this study reestablished factors of the designer brand individuality. An in-depth interview was conducted with 13 designers and consumers for empirical analysis. In order to identify concepts of designer individuality based on the theory of the brand personality by Aaker along with precedent studies, the study devised a theoretical frame to explain a conceptual structure of designer brand individuality as well as reestablish its factors as the designer individuality, design and non-design factors through empirical research. Empirical research derived the designer individuality factors as an external designer image, designer taste, design philosophy and designer personality. Design factors were derived as concept, working process and method, style and formativeness. Non-design factors were also extracted as wearing experience, wearer image, lookbook image, fashion shows and exhibitions. It is meaningful that little empirical research has been conducted on domestic fashion designers who actually run designer brands and that this study helped understand designer brands through a new approach called designer individuality.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.152-170
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• 2023

Although ugliness had long been considered a negative form of beauty, it has become an independent aesthetic category. However, most previous art studies have focused on Rosenkranz's theory, making its application to contemporary fashion analysis challenging. Therefore, it is necessary to redefine ugliness. This study highlighted four modern ugliness categories from a modern perspective following the examination of the historical considerations of the ugliness concept, namely ugliness as a violation of taboo, ugliness as an unpleasant emotion, ugliness as a vulgar taste, and ugliness as an ethical flaw. From this perspective, SHOWstudios for fashion films were analyzed in the present study. The results of our analysis showed that ugliness in the film was related to socially sensitive subjects and stimulating images. Whereas costumes in the film were used as a tool to convey the subject and to enhance the visual effect of the image. In addition, clothing was identified as a core subject element of the video, particularly when considering ugliness as an ethical defect. This study provides further insights into contemporary fashion analysis, expanding the ugliness perspective, which had been limited to the specific perspectives of scholars.